Spice (47 page)

Charmoula
is a North African condiment for fish. There are two kinds: one is a relish made with onion, herbs, and spices (see Grapefruit Charmoula on page 89) and the other is a dry spice rub. This recipe is a dry rub that works really well on salmon or other hearty fishes like swordfish, tuna, bluefish, or monkfish. Sprinkle each 6-ounce portion of fish with a teaspoon of charmoula before roasting or grilling and serve with lots of fresh lemon wedges.

M
AKES ABOUT
½
CUP

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

1 tablespoon ground white pepper

1 tablespoon ground ginger

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon sea salt

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

Mix together all the ingredients and store in an airtight container up to 3 months in a cool, dry place, out of direct light.

Shrimp with Kasseri Cheese, Fennel, and Fenugreek Wrapped in Shredded Phyllo

Years ago, I had lunch at master chef Joel Robuchon’s L’Atelier in Paris, where he served shrimp wrapped in shredded phyllo on a bed of greens dressed with Asian flavors. The presentation was so dramatic that I wanted to re-create it, adding some of my favorite Arabic flavors of fennel with bittersweet fenugreek and salty cheese, which pairs so well with shrimp.

In Greek, the shredded phyllo dough is called
kataifi
; it looks like shredded wheat and makes a dramatic presentation. You can find kataifi at most Middle Eastern markets, Greek markets, and at some specialty food stores.

Kasseri
is a Turkish and Greek cheese, usually made from sheep’s or goat’s milk. It is mild flavored and has a creamy gold color and a firm, hard texture, making it perfect for grating. You can find it at any Greek market and many Middle Eastern markets or specialty cheese shops. Asiago makes a fine substitution if you have trouble finding kasseri.

The filling in this recipe is versatile and can be stuffed into crepes or puff pastry, added to scrambled eggs, or sprinkled over a pizza dough. The shrimp are excellent with salad greens and sliced tomatoes for dinner in the summertime or as hors d’oeuvres at a cocktail party.

This dish pairs well with a Grüner Vetliner from Austria.

M
AKES
8
WRAPS TO SERVE
8
AS AN APPETİZER OR
4
AS A MEAL

1 tablespoon butter plus ¼ cup melted butter for brushing

1 tablespoon olive oil plus ½ cup for brushing

2 small onions, peeled and thinly sliced

2 fennel bulbs, top stalks and fronds removed

1 tablespoon dried fenugreek leaves

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic (about 1 large clove)

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

Salt and pepper to taste

8 large shrimp, peeled and deveined (about 10 per pound)

¼ cup dry white wine

1¾ cups grated kasseri cheese (almost a pound)

1 tablespoon heavy cream

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley plus a little extra for garnish

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice (about ¼ lemon)

½ package shredded phyllo dough or kataifi

2 cups tomato sauce with caramelized butter (see Grilled Skirt Steak, page 26)

1.
In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter with 1 tablespoon olive oil until the butter begins to brown. Add the onions and cook for about 8 minutes, until they begin to soften and turn limp.

2.
Meanwhile, cut the fennel bulbs in half lengthwise and remove the cores with a small paring knife, slicing around them in a V-shape and pulling them out. Remove the first outer layer of each bulb half and discard (this layer is a little tough and fibrous). Slice the fennel into thin strips, about the same size as the onions.

3.
Add the fennel to the onions in the pan and continue to cook, stirring for about 6 minutes, until both vegetables become soft and translucent.

4.
Meanwhile push the fenugreek leaves through a medium-fine sieve over a small bowl to remove bits of stem and to powder the leaves.

5.
Reduce the heat to medium and add the garlic, fenugreek, and paprika and season with salt and pepper. Continue to cook for another 3 minutes.

6.
Stir in the shrimp and wine and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until the wine has evaporated and the shrimp are cooked through.

7.
Remove the pan from the heat and place the shrimp mixture in medium mixing bowl. Stir in the cheese, cream, parsley, and lemon juice and season again with salt and pepper.

8.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.

9.
Cut the phyllo into eight 6-inch-long bundles and gather them into 1-inch-thick (or wide) ropes. Lay them down on a board and brush them generously with the ½ cup olive oil and the ¼ cup melted butter, coating them as well as you can.

10.
Place one shrimp on the bottom quarter of each rope of phyllo strands. Top the shrimp with a tablespoon of cheese and onion and roll the phyllo strands around the shrimp, covering it completely. Repeat this process with the remaining shrimp.

11.
Place the shrimp wraps on a heavy baking sheet and bake them for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden brown and crispy.

12.
Meanwhile, gently warm the tomato sauce on medium-low heat.

13.
Serve each shrimp immediately with a couple of tablespoons of tomato sauce on the side, and sprinkle both with a little parsley.

Make Your Own Curry Powder

Start with this curry recipe as a base and add other spices to create your own signature blend. If you like your curry spicier, add more chilies. To sweeten it, add some allspice or fennel seed. To add more earthiness, try a little cumin.

M
AKES
1½
CUPS