A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (15 page)

Maple and Spice–Roasted Autumn Squash

MAPLE AND SPICE–ROASTED
AUTUMN SQUASH
SERVES 4 TO 6
This is a version of a popular salad we serve at Hearth. Cubes of tender roasted butternut, red kuri, and kabocha squash are sweetened with just enough maple syrup to balance the spicy warmth of ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg. I like buttery red kuri squash with the sweeter butternut and creamy kabocha, but any combination of fall squash works. I leave the skins on the kabocha and red kuri squash because they’re completely edible and add more fiber and a contrasting texture. Be sure to clean the skin well with a vegetable brush or the coarse side of a clean sponge, and thoroughly scrape out the squash guts and seeds with the edge of a spoon until there are no loose bits. Cut and roast the remaining halves of the kabocha and butternut squash to keep around as snacks or to throw in whatever salad or soup you like.

You’ve got to get kabocha in your repertoire; its flesh is a silkier, slightly sweeter version of butternut squash. You should be able to find it in your local grocery store during fall and winter, but if not, use acorn squash or just double up on the butternut or red kuri.
½ kabocha squash, 1 red kuri squash, ½ peeled butternut squash, all cut into 1½-inch cubes (about 8 cups cubed squash total)
1½ tablespoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon ground ginger
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
2
In a large bowl, combine the assorted squash cubes and maple syrup. Season with the ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and salt and toss to evenly coat. Arrange the squash on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Cover the pan with foil to help the squash to cook in its own steam and become more infused with the spices. Bake until the squash is soft, about 35 minutes.
3
Remove the squash from the oven, and set aside to cool for 10 minutes, still covered with the foil.
4
While the squash is still warm, transfer it to a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette and lightly toss; don’t rough it up too much and break down the squash. Add salt to taste and top each serving with a sprinkling of spiced pumpkin seeds.

Clockwise from top right: kabocha squash, Delicata squash, butternut squash, red kuri squash

HOW TO CUT WHOLE SQUASH
Instinct tells you to use a giant cleaver and brute force to hack away at it. Don’t. There’s an easy, effective way that’s less likely to involve a 911 call. Start by using a small, sharp knife, rather than a big one; you’ll have far more control. Lay the squash on its side on a stable cutting board. You’re going to cut it through the equator, rotating as you go.
Kabocha, red kuri, or Delicata (Carnival) squash:
Pierce a knife in the center at the equator so the whole blade is in, push down, and rotate the squash. Push down again and rotate. Continue pushing the knife down and rotating the squash until it’s fully cut in half. Cut the halves lengthwise into strips of the width you want (for this salad, 1½ inches), then crosswise into cubes.
Butternut squash:
Cut the squash in half where the round bulbous part meets the long section. Carefully peel the skin off the long section using a knife first. Then use a vegetable peeler to remove any of the remaining bits of skin and pale yellow flesh. You should see only orange flesh. Halve the long section lengthwise. Lay the halves flat side down and cut lengthwise into strips, then crosswise into cubes. For the bulb, peel it and halve it lengthwise. Scoop out the guts and seeds, place each bulb flat-side down, and cut lengthwise into strips, then crosswise into cubes.
STRAWBERRY AND TOMATO GAZPACHO
SERVES 4
In the middle of the summer, right when New York starts to get sticky-hot and cold soup sounds especially good, late strawberry season and early tomato season collide at the market. Inevitably, the two fruits (yep, tomatoes are fruits) end up together in my blender to make this delicious gazpacho. Strawberries seem like the odd man out here, but their sweetness and bit of acidity bring balance to the soup.

3 cups cherry tomatoes
1 pound strawberries, hulled and quartered (about 2 cups); reserve 8 quarters for serving
1 cup peeled, chopped cucumber
1 cup chopped red bell pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed with the flat side of a knife
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Fine sea salt
Fresh basil leaves, torn, for serving
1
In a blender, combine the tomatoes, strawberries, cucumber, bell pepper, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, and a couple pinches of salt and puree until smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed.
2
Pour the gazpacho into a large bowl or, for a super smooth gazpacho, strain it through a fine-mesh sieve set over a large bowl. Refrigerate until chilled.
3
To serve, ladle the gazpacho into bowls. Chop the reserved strawberries and top each serving of soup with the berries, torn basil, and a drizzle of olive oil.
CARAMELIZED CAULIFLOWER AND
APPLE SOUP
SERVES 6 TO 8
I’ve kicked off several Thanksgiving meals with this soup and can confirm that it wins over a wide audience, even the picky people. Pan-roasting the cauliflower in a hot pan brings out its natural sugars and gives it a much deeper flavor. To nail this, be sure that the oil is really hot before adding the vegetables and that you maintain the heat by adding the cauliflower and onions to the pot in several stages, rather than all at once. Without adequate heat, the vegetables will start to release liquid and steam instead of brown. I process the soup in a regular blender, but you could use an immersion blender if you prefer a chunkier consistency. Or if you want super-refined smoothness, you could run the processed soup through a fine-mesh sieve. Subbing in sliced fennel for the cauliflower makes an equally flavorful soup. Either way, this soup is freezer-friendly.

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, roughly chopped (about 2 cups)
1 large head cauliflower, cut into bite-size pieces, stems included (about 5 cups)
Fine sea salt
2 apples, quartered and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 (4-inch) sprigs of fresh rosemary, folded in half and tied with kitchen twine
½ cup nonalcoholic apple cider
Dehydrated apple chips and chopped walnuts (optional)
1
In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over high heat. When wisps of smoke come off the surface, add one-third of the onion and cauliflower at a time, waiting 1 minute between each addition, then add 2 generous pinches of salt. There should be some serious sizzling sounds, but don’t stir just yet—let the florets brown and start to caramelize. After 3 minutes, give it a stir. Cook for 5 minutes, until the vegetables have cooked down by a third. Reduce the heat to medium-high and stir. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring every minute.
2
Add the apples and tied rosemary sprigs. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3
Add the apple cider and 2½ cups water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and let it simmer for 15 minutes.
4
Working in batches, process the mixture in a blender until smooth. As each batch is blended, pour into another pot over medium heat. Once it’s all in, adjust the consistency by adding more water, if you like. Salt to taste. Ladle into bowls and top each serving with a sprinkling of crumbled apple chips and chopped walnuts, if desired.

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