A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (23 page)

Roasted Carrots with Millet and Mint-Pistachio Pesto

ROASTED CARROTS WITH MILLET AND MINT-PISTACHIO PESTO
SERVES 4
Millet draws a blank with most people even though it’s been around for centuries and has an impressive nutrition profile. Yet after discovering how versatile and quick-cooking it is, I incorporate millet into a lot of dishes in my house. The small yellow grains are gluten-free and pair well with all kinds of foods. I like to amp up its slightly nutty corn flavor by toasting it before cooking. Here, the toasty cooked millet coats roasted carrots and gets a hit of minty pesto. This seems like a long time to cook carrots, but roasting them low and slow with their peel on brings out a deeper sweet flavor and a more complex, dehydrated texture. And this bright, zingy pesto is one of those things that you’ll find a million uses for once you have it around. I toss it with pasta and roasted vegetables, use it as a spread on sandwiches or
Chickpea Crepes
, and stir a spoonful into leftover grains to give them new life. Leftover pesto can be refrigerated for up to a week, or frozen for a couple of months.

You can create a polenta-style creamy porridge using a grain-to-liquid ratio of 1:3 and stirring the millet frequently while it cooks.
If you have trouble digesting grains, give gluten-free millet a whirl. As one of the few alkaline-forming grains, it’s easier to digest than most. Look for it in the bulk food section at your natural foods store. Bob’s Red Mill packages it in seed form as well as in flour form, which I use to
coat fried fish
.
12 carrots, scrubbed, with tops trimmed
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup millet
1 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves
3 tablespoons unsalted pistachios, plus chopped pistachios for serving
1
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a baking sheet with foil.
2
If the carrots are thicker than ½ inch, halve them lengthwise; otherwise, leave them whole. On the baking sheet, toss the carrots with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Roast, shaking the pan occasionally, until they’re lightly browned and the skin looks shriveled, about 1 hour 30 minutes.
3
While the carrots roast, toast the millet in a dry pot over high heat, stirring often until the grains turn golden brown and give off a toasty fragrance, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 2¼ cups water and a pinch of salt to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed and the grains are fluffy, 15 to 20 minutes. Take the pot off the heat and let it sit, covered, for 10 minutes.
4
In a food processor, combine the mint, pistachios, and a pinch of salt and process until the nuts are coarsely ground. While the processor is running, add the remaining ½ cup olive oil in a slow, steady stream until the pesto is smooth.
5
On a platter or in a large bowl, toss the roasted carrots with 1 cup of the cooked millet, 3 tablespoons of the pesto, and some chopped pistachios. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Mint-Pistachio Pesto

Amaranth “Polenta” with Tuscan Kale

AMARANTH “POLENTA” WITH
TUSCAN KALE
SERVES 6 TO 8
If quinoa is the blockbuster among gluten-free grains, amaranth is the sleeper hit. When I discovered its polenta-like qualities, amaranth immediately shot up the list to become one of my favorite grains. Like cornmeal, it expands and thickens to become a luscious porridge, and amaranth brings protein power—1 cup cooked amaranth has more protein than a hard-boiled egg. You have to freeze the bunch of kale overnight, so this one takes a little planning ahead. It’s much less time consuming to crumble frozen kale into tiny pieces than to mince the entire bunch.

Sometimes I make this with chicken broth instead of water for a richer flavor, or I stir in a couple of tablespoons of finely chopped fresh rosemary or parsley.
1 bunch Tuscan kale (aka lacinato or dinosaur kale), frozen
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups amaranth
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1
Working over a bowl, crumble the frozen kale leaves with your hands until you have about 1½ cups of fine crumbles. Discard the stems and thick center ribs.
2
In a large pot, bring 6 cups water and 3 big pinches of salt to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and pour the amaranth into the water in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Stir in the kale and simmer, stirring occasionally, until it reaches a puddinglike consistency, about 30 minutes. The amaranth beads should be tender but retain enough shape to offer a little pop.
3
Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the Parmesan, olive oil, and a good dose of black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed.

Bulgur Wheat Salad with Asparagus, Spring Onions, and Parsley

BULGUR WHEAT SALAD WITH ASPARAGUS,
SPRING ONIONS, AND PARSLEY
SERVES 4 TO 6
I like this salad to be more about the crisp freshness of asparagus than the grain, so bulgur (a form of whole wheat that’s been steamed, dried, and crushed) is a great base. Its small size, light texture, and subtle, earthy flavor allow the vegetables to shine, while adding heartiness and more fiber to the salad. It also has the advantage of being one of the fastest-cooking grains. If you want more richness in the salad, toss in crumbly, dry goat cheese or ricotta salata.

Spreading the bulgur in a thin layer around the sides of the bowl allows it to steam and release more moisture than if it sits in a pile in the center of the bowl. The result is drier, fluffier bulgur.
1 cup bulgur wheat
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch asparagus
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium spring onions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1
In a pot, combine the bulgur wheat, a couple pinches of salt, and 3 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the bulgur is tender but still has a little bit of a bite, 10 to 12 minutes. Thoroughly drain the excess liquid. In a large bowl, press the bulgur in a thin layer against the sides. Set aside to cool.
2
Trim the asparagus by holding each stalk horizontally and bending gently until the tough, woody end snaps off. Cut the tips from the asparagus spears and slice each tip in half lengthwise. Cut the spears crosswise into ¼-inch rounds.
3
In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over high heat. When the first wisps of smoke come off the pan, add the asparagus tips and rounds and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 6 minutes, tossing every couple of minutes.
4
Transfer the asparagus to the bowl with the bulgur. Add the onions, parsley, lemon juice, and remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
FISH
LIKE MANY ITALIANS, MY FAMILY
celebrates Christmas Eve with the customary Feast of the Seven Fishes. The menu changes slightly from year to year, but our multicourse seafood extravaganza covers the spectrum of seafood, from boiled calamari dressed with chile, garlic, parsley, lemon, and olive oil to lightly battered flounder pan-fried and served with lemon (
a favorite
I include here). And, of course, pasta—usually spaghetti or linguine with shrimp that’s been sautéed with loads of parsley, garlic, and white wine. Without question, this tradition deeply rooted a love of seafood in me that continues to influence my cooking at Hearth today.
Here’s the kicker: Despite how much I enjoy it, I rarely cooked seafood at home. Led by my impulses at the grocery store, I’d sooner reach for meat or poultry than fish. I suspect this is true for a lot of people, since only about one-third of Americans eat fish even once a week. Given all that fish has going for it, it’s a little baffling why it ends up in the grocery cart so infrequently. Fish is a great source of lean protein and a godsend for the busy home cook; most fish cook in a matter of minutes. All but one recipe in this chapter call for under 30 minutes of active cooking time—most are closer to 15 minutes.
Fish also offer unbeatable
health benefits, namely their content of
omega-3 fatty acids
.
Maybe it’s because people find cooking fish too challenging to mess with at home. This perception couldn’t be further from the truth. Fish is generally easier to cook than meat; it’s simply a matter of becoming comfortable with a few basic techniques. Roasting and grilling may be the two most popular methods, but if you’re a fish-wary cook, I suggest starting with steaming and poaching. The gentle heat and moisture involved in the duo of
poached fish
and
clam recipes
and
Steamed Black Bass with Bok Choy
reduce the likelihood of overcooking, so the result is succulent, flavor-infused fish. Another foolproof way to protect delicate fish from drying out is to bake it in parchment paper, which holds in moisture and concentrates the flavor of the
Wild Salmon in Parchment with Olives, Fennel, and Lemon
.
Regardless of technique, choosing high-quality fish and cooking it the day you buy it is paramount. The taste and texture of freshly caught local fish is always going to be superior to days-old (or older) frozen fish from a different continent. And while there’s not a universal answer to the question of wild or farmed, the better option is usually wild fish caught using sustainable methods (like hook and line fishing). The discussion of factory-farmed beef and poultry is now
mainstream
, but there’s relatively little awareness about the practices at average fish farms. Penned in close quarters, fed an artificial diet, and treated with antibiotics and dyes, most farmed fish, especially farmed Atlantic salmon, are damaging to the surrounding ecosystems and have less omega-3s and protein than wild fish. All farmed fish are not created equal, so the best thing to do is tap into the knowledge of your local market’s fishmonger. Ask if the fish is local or shipped in, wild-caught, or farmed. You can also refer to the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch (
seafoodwatch.org
) as a guide.
Among the most sustainable sources wild fish are oily, delicious little fish like sardines and anchovies. I’m a crusader for these little guys not only because they’re inexpensive and widely available, but because they’re full of
umami-rich flavor
and complexity. They’re also low on the food chain, so they don’t contain toxins found in other types of seafood. My other fish obsession was confirmed with my recent purchase of an entire side of wild Alaskan salmon. I cut it into 6-ounce portions, which now fill our freezer at home. Pan-roasted, cured, poached, or baked, the buttery texture and richness of salmon is king for me lately.

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