A Place of Meadows and Tall Trees (32 page)

(from ‘At Home With The Patagonians' by George Chaworth Musters, 1871)

TEHUELCHE
     ENGLISH

aix
               council

bola
            ball (usually of stone) threaded onto a lead and used as a weapon

cacique
     chief

calafate
     Berberis heterophylla Jussieu. A common plant similar to a mulberry. (It is said that if you eat a
calafate
berry in Patagonia you will always return).

chume
       two-bola weapon

charcao
     The Yuyo moro (Senecio filaginoides de
Candolle). A common species of shrub
in Patagonia

coquetra
     children

Cristiano
     Argentine Christian

háchish
       Christian man

hogel
          piebald

ketz
            good

kow
            expression of triumph on catching game

mara
         type of long-legged rabbit related to the guinea pig

mikkeoush
     ostrich (or rhea)

molle
        Schinus johnstonii Barkley – a small tree or shrub native to Patagonia and used by the Tehuelches for medicine

pespesh
    sit down

rou
             guanaco, relative of the lama

showan
     moon

tchonik
     Indian people

toldo
         awning or dwelling of the Tehuelches (Spanish)

wati, wati, wati
     expression of surprise

wéen
       march

zorrino
   skunk (spanish)

zorro
       fox

Edwyn Lloyd is based, extremely loosely, on the leader of the expedition, Lewis Jones. Again I have used the merest basic details of his life and have not attempted to base ‘the flesh' on any accounts of the man himself. I know that his mother was persecuted by the English and evicted from her cottage. I know he was a publisher of a satirical magazine, and that he was instrumental in persuading the colonists to come to Patagonia. He and Sir Love Jones-Parry made a reconnoitre of the area before the colonists came and he did his best to prepare for them (with his wife Ellen and an American colonist, Edwyn Cynrig Roberts – Selwyn Williams in the book). Lewis Jones, by some accounts, exaggerated the fertility of the area. He was later sent to Buenos Aires by the colonists to negotiate with Dr Guillermo Rawson, the Argentine minister for internal affairs. His wife then returned to Wales, but a couple of years later Jones went back to Wales to perhaps encourage more settlers, and Ellen returned to Patagonia with him, giving birth to a daughter on the voyage over.  This daughter, Eluned Morgan, wrote an account of her travels in Patagonia which is till in print today:
Dringo'r Andes a Gwymon y Mor
.

Three ministers accompanied the colony to Patagonia, but the characters of Jacob Griffiths and Caradoc Llewellyn are made up and not based on any one of them.

The encounters with the Tehuelches are, as far as I could glean, pretty much as they happened. Their first contact was with an old chief, who helped them and saved them from starvation, and later they were surrounded by the members of three other tribes. They traded successfully, and the two peoples lived harmoniously with each other, even inventing a Welsh-Tehuelche hybrid language. Although I researched the Tehuelche culture as much as I could – including the folk-lore, myths and lifestyle – the character of Yeluc is my invention.

The incident with the dog bringing game is recorded, although this may be myth. The natural disasters – flooding, storms on the
Maria Theresa
, the loss of livestock, the drought and the eventual irrigation – are all recorded.

The main part of the book ends in approximately 1869. In subsequent years the Welsh obtained a bumper harvest, and they were soon winning prizes for their wheat. The colony grew, spread west to the Andes and today there are five towns with a significant Welsh character and population – Trevelin and Esquel in the Andes, and Gaiman, Trelew and Rawson towards the Atlantic coast. On satellite pictures from space the eastern towns are green patches in a yellow-brown landscape. They still hold
Eisteddfodau
 and are proud of their Welsh heritage. The Welsh language spoken in Patagonia is a unique blend of both north and south Welsh. Their other language is Spanish, and they consider themselves to be Welsh-Argentines. Gaiman is the most Welsh-looking of the towns, but the eastern valley is littered with Welsh chapels and tea rooms, only differing from their counterparts in Wales in that the roofs tend to be corrugated iron rather than slate, offering greater resistance to the strong and frequent winds.

Thanks to a campaign by the Argentines started in the 1870s to rid Patagonia of its indigenous nomadic population (‘The Conquest of the Desert') there are few Tehuelches left in South America, and the Tehuelche language is now an endangered one.

Thank you also to the many people of Patagonia I interviewed, especially Luned Gonzales de Roberts (descendant of Michael D Jones), her sister Tegai Roberts (curator of the museum at Gaiman) and Erie James (Aaron Jenkins' descendant) and also Albina de Zampini, Rachel Davies-Butrick, Rhiannon Gough, Dougie Berwyn and Lizzie Lloyd. Many thanks also to Gwyn and Mónica Jones who arranged my trip to Patagonia, Susan Wilkinson, author of
Mimosa
, for useful discussions, Elvey MacDonald, author of
Yr Hirdaith
, who was most helpful in giving me a list of people to see and places to visit, Harold W. Carr-Rollitt and Rini Griffiths, my guides in Patagonia, Fernando Coronato of the Centro Nacional Patagónico, and Robert Owen Jones (professor of Welsh at the university of Cardiff). I would also like to thank Morina Lloyd who taught me Welsh at Lampeter University, Howard and Elsa Malpas who gave me some shamanic training and the staff of the National Library of Wales, the British Library and the British Museum. Thank you also to the authors of the following books which I recommend for further reading:
Mimosa
by Susan Wilkinson,
The Desert and the Dream
by Glyn Williams,
Hope and Heartbreak
by Russell Davies,
Shamanism
by Mircia Eliade,
The Language of the Blue Books
by Gwyneth Tyson Roberts,
The Epic of South America
by John A Crow,
Yr Hirdaith
by Elvey MacDonald,
Crónica de la Colonia Galesa de la Patagonia
by Abraham Matthews,
Patagonia Un Jardín Natural
by María Elena Arce and Silvia Adriana-Gonzales,
La Patagonia que Canta
by William C Rhys and
Una Frontera Lejana
by Bill Jones et al and
The Great Adventure
by Aled Lloyd Davies,
At Home with the Patagonians
by George Musters.

The following people read this work in its various drafts and I am grateful to them for support and advice: my editor at Seren, Penny Thomas; Stuart Clark; Natasha Fairweather and her assistants Naomi Leon and Judy-Meg Kennedy at A.P. Watt; Carole Welch; Helen Garnons-Williams; my mother Nancy Jenkins; and my husband Christopher Dudman.

Thank you also to my friends in Chester and on-line for your support and encouragement.