Read Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects Online
Authors: Amy Butler
Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (24 page)
*
See page 171
for an explanation of a reinforcement stitch.
d.
Next, clip into the seam allowance where the seams attaching the sleeve to the main panels connect, making sure not to clip your stitching.
e.
Then, serge or zigzag across raw edges of the underarm and side seam allowances held together and press the seam allowances toward the back of the robe.
f.
Follow the instructions in steps 10b through 10e to attach and finish the raw edges on the right side of the robe.
Step 11. Hem the sleeves.
a.
First, try on your robe. Place a pin at the point on the sleeve to mark where your arm ends. Take off the robe and measure 3
1
/
2
″ past the length you marked on the sleeve and cut away any excess sleeve length.
b.
Then, starting with the left sleeve, fold
1
/
2
″ up toward the
Wrong
side along the bottom raw edge and press. Then, fold the edge up again 3″ and press. Pin the folded edge in place. Topstitch along the inner folded edge of the sleeve. Repeat this step to hem the bottom raw edges on the right sleeve.
(
FIGURE 11B
)
c.
Then, turn the robe
Right
side facing out and press the entire robe.
Step 12. Make the belt.
*
a.
Find the center of the belt by folding it in half lengthwise with the
Wrong
sides together and press a center crease. Unfold the belt.
b.
Next, fold the long side raw edges in to meet the center crease and press. Then, fold each short raw end
1
/
2
″ in and press. Then, refold the belt in half again at the center crease and press.
c.
Topstitch completely around the belt close to the folded edges.
*
See page 170
for an explanation of how to make a drawstring (you’ll use the same process to make your belt).
Step 13. Make the belt loops.
Follow the instructions in step 12 to make and finish both of the belt loops.
Step 14. Attach the belt loops to each side of the robe.
a.
Try on your robe again. Tie the belt around your waist, and raise and lower your arms to allow enough room on the sides for you to move comfortably. On the left side seam, mark the location just above where your belt is placed. Alternatively, measure 8″ down on the left side seam, from the seam that attaches the sleeve to the front and back panels, and make a mark. Repeat this step to mark the placement for your other belt loop on the right side of the robe. Remove the robe.
b.
Place one short end of the first belt loop just under the mark on the left side seam, centering it over the side seam, and pin it in place across both short ends. Stitch close to the finished edge on each end of the belt loop, backstitching at each end.
(
FIGURE 14B
)
c.
Follow the instructions in step 14b to attach the other belt loop to the right-hand side of the robe.
Step 15. Hem the bottom of the robe.
a.
Fold the bottom raw edge on the robe
1
/
2
″ in toward the
Wrong
side and press. Fold the edge in again 1
1
/
2
″ toward the
Wrong
side and press. Pin along the inner folded edge.
b.
Then, topstitch close to the inner folded edge to finish the robe.
(
FIGURE 15B
)
HANGING TOILETRY BASKET
FINISHED SIZE: 8 ″ WIDE × 15″ TALL × 2 ″ DEEP
This sturdy, handy basket offers a lovely way to store your cosmetics, lotions, and other bathroom necessities within easy reach! Made to hang on a doorknob or hook, it’s perfect for personalizing small spaces such as dorm rooms. It travels well, too—just pack it in your suitcase along with your favorite toiletries, and stock it when you’re settling into your hotel room.
HANGING TOILETRY BASKET
FABRICS AND NOTIONS
•
3
/
8
yard (44″-wide) light to mid-weight cotton print for the front and bottom panels and pocket
•
1
/
2
yard (44″-wide) coordinating cotton solid for the back panels, pocket, and bottom lining panel
•
1
/
2
yard (44″- or 58″-wide) 10-ounce cotton canvas or duck cloth
•
1
/
2
yard (13″-wide) Timtex
*
or other extra-heavy interfacing
•
1
/
4
yard boning
*
See page 172
for an explanation of Timtex.
OTHER SUPPLIES
• Coordinating thread
• Scissors
• Yardstick or ruler
• Chalk pencil or fabric marker
• Masking tape
• Straight pins
• Seam ripper
• Turning tool (such as a closed pair of scissors)
• Quarter
NOTES
• All seams are
1
/
2
″ unless otherwise stated. (The
1
/
2
″ seam allowance is included in all of the cutting measurements and the pattern piece.)
• Preshrink your fabric by washing, drying, and pressing it before starting your project. To wash Timtex after completing your project, machine wash warm, then reshape your project and air dry. Your project will press back into shape with a steam iron. Once you steam the project, support it with wadded-up tissue paper or a folded towel while air drying in order to keep the shape that you want.
Step 1. Cut out all pieces from the fabric.
a.
First, cut out the back panel pattern piece provided in the pocket at the front of this book.
b.
Simply measure and mark the dimensions below directly onto the
Wrong
side of your fabric, using a yardstick and a chalk pencil. Then, using your scissors, cut out each panel following the marked lines. (Use
FIGURE 1B
to see all the parts of the project.)
FROM THE FABRIC FOR THE EXTERIOR FRONT, POCKET, AND BOTTOM PANELS
• Cut 1 exterior front panel: 13″ wide × 10
1
/
2
″ long
• Cut 1 exterior pocket panel: 13″ wide × 6
1
/
2
″ long
• Cut 1 exterior bottom panel: 3″ wide × 9″ long
FROM THE FABRIC FOR THE EXTERIOR BACK, FRONT LINING, POCKET LINING, AND BOTTOM LINING
• Cut 2 exterior back panels: Use the entire pattern piece provided in the pocket at the front of this book.
• Cut 1 front lining panel: 13″ wide × 11
1
/
2
″ long
• Cut 1 pocket lining: 13″ wide × 7
1
/
2
″ long
• Cut 1 bottom lining panel: 3″ wide × 9″ long
FROM THE CANVAS
• Cut 1 front panel: 13″ wide × 10
1
/
2
″ long
• Cut 1 pocket panel: 13″ wide × 6
1
/
2
″ long
• Cut 1 top panel: Use the top of the back panel pattern piece provided in the pocket at the front of this book. (Fold the back panel pattern piece at the fold line and cut around the top part of the pattern to make the top panel.)
FROM THE TIMTEX INTERFACING
• Cut 2 panels: 8″ wide × 10″ long
• Cut 2 bottom panels: 2″ wide × 8″ long
c.
In order to keep your pieces organized, mark each piece by writing the name on a piece of masking tape and attaching to the
Wrong
side of each panel as it is cut.
Step 2: Attach the canvas and Timtex interfacing to the exterior panels.
a.
Center one of the short edges of the first Timtex panel on the bottom raw edge of the canvas top panel, overlapping it
1
/
2
″. Stitch a seam across the top cut edge of the Timtex, attaching the 2 pieces together. Then, turn the panel over and repeat this step to attach the other Timtex panel to the other side of the canvas top panel.
(
FIGURE 2A
)
b.
Cut a 9″ piece of boning
*
with the casing attached. Slide the boning out of the casing a couple of inches on one end and cut 1
1
/
4
″ off the end of the boning. Push the boning back inside the casing. Then, fold under
5
/
8
″ of the casing on each end of the boning and pin it in place. Machine baste
*
across both ends of the boning to hold the folded ends in place.
(
FIGURE 2B
)
*
See pages 170
and
171
for explanations of boning and machine basting.
c.
Center the boning across the top cut edge of the Timtex panel where it is attached to the
Wrong
side of the canvas and pin the boning in place. Stitch across both long sides of the boning and each end of the boning, backstitching at each end.
d.
Place the canvas-and-Timtex back panel onto the
Wrong
side of the exterior back panel, matching up the top raw edge of the canvas with the top raw edge of the back panel. Center the attached Timtex on the bottom part of the back panel, leaving
1
/
2
″ of the back panel exposed around the side and bottom edges of the Timtex, and pin it in place. Then, machine baste a
1
/
2
″ seam around the canvas raw edges, attaching it to the exterior back panel, and continue to stitch around the cut edge on the Timtex. Set the panel aside.
(
FIGURE 2D
)
e.
To give the bottom of your Hanging Toiletry Basket added support, machine baste both of the Timtex bottom panels together. Then, center the Timtex panels on the
Wrong
side of the exterior bottom panel, leaving
1
/
2
″ of the exterior bottom panel exposed all the way around the Timtex, as in the previous step. Pin the panels in place. Next, machine baste the Timtex around the cut edge to secure it in place. Then, set the panel aside.
(
FIGURE 2E
)
f.
Place the canvas front panel onto the
Wrong
side of the exterior front panel, matching up the raw edges, and pin it in place. Then, machine baste a
1
/
2
″ seam completely around the edges of the front panel.
g.
Place the canvas pocket panel onto the
Wrong
side of the exterior pocket panel, matching up the raw edges, and pin it in place. Then, machine baste a
1
/
2
″ seam completely around the edges of the exterior pocket panel.
Step 3. Attach the front lining panel to the exterior front panel.
a.
Place the front lining panel and the exterior front panel with
Right
sides together, making sure to match up the top raw edges, and pin them in place. Stitch a
1
/
2
″ seam across the top raw edges, backstitching at each end.
NOTE:
The front lining panel is 1″ longer than the exterior front panel, in order to create the contrasting edge across the top of the panel.
b.
Then, flip the lining over the seam allowance at the top raw edge of the exterior front panel (with canvas attached). (This will leave
1
/
2
″ of the [solid-color] lining showing on the top of the exterior front panel.) Match up the side and bottom raw edges and then machine baste the raw edges together by stitching a
1
/
2
″ seam down both sides and across the bottom of the front panel.
(
FIGURE 3B
)
c.
Follow the instructions in steps 3a and 3b to attach the pocket lining to the exterior pocket panel.
d.
Trim the canvas in the seam allowance of both the front panel and front pocket panel.