Around the Shabbat Table (5 page)

TWO CLASSIC MATZOH BALL RECIPES

yield:
6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Featherweight matzoh balls so delicate they quiver when you sigh—these are not the stuff our dreams are made on. My family prefers matzoh balls with a rich flavor you can really taste, buttery and light-textured, but not so fluffy you might as well be eating scrambled eggs. I've experimented with many slight variations, including my grandmother's addition of club soda, and for years relied on the standard, back-of-the-matzoh-meal-box recipe that called for a few tablespoons of broth stirred into the batter. This recipe, using slightly more of the flavorful fat and no liquid at all, is our hands-down favorite. On the very rare occasions when we have any left over, we enjoy them heated up with a bit of broth or sautéed (chill them before frying so they don't fall apart) and served as a side dish, with or without gravy.

4 large eggs

1 recipe
Olive Oil Schmaltz
(see Cook's Note) or 6 tablespoons
Poultry Schmaltz
or, less desirably, 6 tablespoons mild olive or avocado oil (the fat should be at room temperature)

4 teaspoons grated onion

1 cup matzoh meal (you can substitute up to
¹
⁄
₄
cup finely ground skinned almonds for an equal quantity of the matzoh meal)

1 teaspoon baking powder (optional; see Cook's Note)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Up to 4 tablespoons finely minced fresh herbs (dill, chives, parsley, or a combination) and/or 2 pinches of ground ginger (optional)

IN
a large bowl, beat the eggs and schmaltz or oil until well blended and thick. Whisk in the onions. Mix together the matzoh meal, baking powder, if using, salt (figure about 1
¹
⁄
₂
teaspoons), and pepper to taste, and stir into the egg mixture. Stir in the optional seasonings, if using. Cover the mixture and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours, so the matzoh meal can fully absorb the liquids and seasoning.

BRING
4 quarts water and 1
¹
⁄
₂
tablespoons salt to a boil in a large, wide pot with a lid.

THE
balls formed from the soft batter may not hold their shape well, especially those made without baking powder. Not to worry: they will be very tender. Shape the batter into walnut- or olive-size balls, and place on a platter. When the water comes to a rapid boil, reduce the heat a bit. Carefully slide the balls in one at a time. Or you can form the balls using two spoons and drop them right into the water. Don't crowd the pot—if necessary, prepare the matzoh balls in two batches or use two pots. When the water returns to a gentle boil, immediately cover the pot tightly and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook for 35 to 45 minutes, without removing the lid. (They will cook by direct heat as well as by steam, which makes them swell up—lifting the lid will reduce some of that steam.) Test for doneness: remove a matzoh ball and cut it in half. It should be tender, fluffy, and completely cooked through. If it isn't, continue cooking for a few more minutes.

REMOVE
the matzoh balls gently with a skimmer or a large slotted spoon—they are too fragile to pour into a colander. To serve, heat the chicken soup, add the matzoh balls, and simmer until they are heated through. (Don't eliminate this vital step: matzoh balls cooked in water need to absorb some of the soup's flavor—see Cook's Note.) Ladle into warmed shallow bowls and serve immediately. Or cover the drained matzoh balls with some broth and set aside for a few hours until you are ready to heat them.

COOK'S NOTE:
Olive Oil Schmaltz, a puree of oil-stewed onions, provides not only flavor but also a texture approximating a semisolid fat, which makes the matzoh balls fluffy and light. If you want a tasty substitute other than poultry fat, similar aromatic blends such as purees of roasted garlic or mushrooms sautéed or braised until soft, combined with some oil (add a chopped fresh herb, for extra flavor, if you'd like) also work well. And I've made exquisite matzoh balls using the above recipe but substituting
¹
⁄
₃
cup jarred artichoke puree mixed with 2 tablespoons olive oil for the schmaltz. For another delicious variation, see the
Roasted Fennel Matzoh Balls
.

For an acceptable
Poultry Schmaltz
substitute, some cooks reserve the congealed fat scraped from the top of chilled chicken soup and supplement it with oil, if needed.

I make this recipe without baking powder on Passover. I think of it here as insurance—with it, you are much less likely to experience serious Knaidlach Failure: matzoh balls that fall apart, that won't swell up, that are too tight or too tough. When carefully prepared, however, these matzoh balls made without baking powder will be tender and buttery tasting, too. To keep them light and fluffy, remember not to lift the lid at all until you suspect they are ready, that is, not before at least 35 minutes have elapsed.

Though cooking the matzoh balls in broth would make them very flavorful, it would also cloud the broth. So I cook them in well-salted water, then let them simmer in broth for a while, drinking in its rich taste.

A very close runner up, this matzoh ball—eggier and a little more delicate in flavor and texture—calls for separating the eggs. Have all ingredients at room temperature.

4 large eggs, separated

Kosher salt

¹
⁄
₄
cup
Olive Oil Schmaltz
or 3 tablespoons
Poultry Schmaltz
or, less desirably, 3 tablespoons mild olive or avocado oil

Freshly ground black pepper

4 teaspoons grated onion

Up to 4 tablespoons finely minced fresh herbs (dill, chives, parsley, or a combination) and/or 2 pinches of ground ginger (optional)

1 cup matzoh meal

In
a large bowl, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they hold peaks that are stiff but not dry. In another bowl, beat the yolks with the fat, about 1
¹
⁄
₂
teaspoons salt, or to taste, and a little pepper, until thick and creamy. Whisk in the onion and seasonings, if using. Fold the whites into the yolk mixture until just combined. Slowly and gently fold in the matzoh meal. Cover the mixture and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours, so the matzoh meal can fully absorb the liquids and seasoning.

Follow
the directions above for poaching, draining, and serving the matzoh balls.

FRIED ONION AND CHICKEN KREPLACH

yield:
ABOUT 30 KREPLACH

Throughout this book, onions are cooked in many ways, depending on the texture and taste desired—soft and sweet, rich and caramelized, golden and crispy. In this recipe, they are salted first to draw out the moisture and then fried. If you are pressed for time or don't want to bother, omit the soaking and fry the onions a little longer over medium heat.

Using a high proportion of savory fried onion to the chicken ensures that the filling for the kreplach won't be dry—even if the chicken left its flavor in the soup pot.

2 large onions, very thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

Coarse kosher salt

1 cup cooked chicken (use light and dark meat; leftover from preparing chicken soup is fine)

A few tablespoons of chicken broth

2 tablespoons mild olive or canola oil

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

Freshly ground black pepper

About 30
wonton wrappers
(have some extra in case of tearing)

Egg wash (1 to 2 large eggs, as needed, each beaten with 1 teaspoon water)

Accompaniments:
Classic Chicken Soup
, gravy, fried onions, or mushrooms from
Mishmash Kreplach

SEPARATE
the onions into rings. To draw out the moisture, toss in a bowl with 1
¹
⁄
₂
teaspoons salt. Set aside for about 20 minutes, stirring from time to time. Then place the onions between sheets of paper towels, pressing down to soak up as much onion water as possible.