Authors: Jessica Alba
B00AFU6252 EBOK (29 page)
But you do have to be careful to check for quality with older pieces and watch for a few safety hazards like rusty nails, splintering wood, and lead paint. I always have upholstered pieces thoroughly checked for bedbugs; restuffed with natural foam rubber, organic cotton, or wool fill; and recovered in organic cotton, wool blends, or silk (untreated and low-impact dyes only) or nontoxic vinyl. Wood gets repainted and sealed with no-VOC paints and stains. Depending on your time, budget, and talents, you can do some or all of this yourself—for example, I’ll handle the basic refinishing and painting but usually send upholstery to the pros because it’s so much more complex.
I found this chandelier in a local vintage store. I had it “dipped” to take it from icky brass to silver.
When you get your vintage wood furniture home, it’s going to need some TLC. Skip the toxic furniture polish and instead combine 2 cups olive oil and the juice from one lemon in a glass or ceramic container. Apply to the furniture with a soft polishing cloth, rub briskly to shine, and allow to dry. (Always test first on a small, inconspicuous area.)
The love seat in Honor’s room was a Craigslist score; we had it refilled with nontoxic stuffing and re-done in purple PVC-free pleather. It folds out into a little bed—perfect for sleepover parties. One of my favorite décor tricks? Adding some craft glitter to wall paint for a little extra sparkle.
| Avoid . . . | Look for . . . |
| * Fiberboard—it tends to fall apart and can emit formaldehyde and other toxins | * Solid wood construction |
| * Plastic or sticker veneers (these can’t be refinished and look cheap) | * High-quality wood veneers (common in more-expensive antiques, especially if the piece features inlay or multiple kinds of wood in the design) |
| * Staples, nails, or visible glue | * Joint construction (dovetail or mortise and tendon) or at least dowels and screws |
| * Anything that twists or squeaks when you lift one corner | * Weight evenly distributed on all four corners—no drunken tilting! |
| * Visible rust | * A furniture manufacturer’s name printed somewhere—this means you can go home and Google your new find to see when it was made and how much it’s worth! |
| * Knots (unless you love the character they add), cracked, or soft, easily scratched surfaces | * Smooth, hardwood surfaces |
| * Wood-on-wood sliding drawers (they stick) | * Metal glide rails on drawers |
| * Springs more than a few inches apart—or that chair or couch is going to sag | * Hand-tied coil springs, grouped closely together to provide even resistance |
Our family has so much fun at flea markets—I love finding treasures like inexpensive frames I can paint (far left) or one-of-a-kind jewelry. Honor gets excited about the most random, fun things (like that traffic light!), and Cash is a great sport about toting bags.
W
HENEVER
I
HIT UP
a flea market, antiques store, thrift store, or tag sale—or just log some quality browsing time on eBay or
thisisnotikea.com
—there are a couple of things I’m keeping an eye out for. Call them my vintage moments—some are true heirlooms (certain milk glass serving pieces can be quite valuable); some have zero value beyond putting a smile on my face. But they fit our aesthetic and life, and I love adding to my collections.
I get tons of this as gifts, too. I display all of my vases, serving pieces, and cake stands along the tops of our kitchen cabinets—the creamy white glass really pops against the yellow-and-gold wallpaper.
I have a little work-in-progress collection of vintage postcards framed on one wall of my kitchen (left). There’s a great farmers’ market in New York City where I found the first batch—eventually, I’d love to cover the whole wall.
When I first picked up a bunch of vintage animal-print sheets from a bin outside this thrift store in the south of France, I didn’t have any idea what I’d do with them—I just loved the happy colors! Then, when it came time to decorate Haven’s nursery, inspiration struck: I collected gently used frames, painted them in complementary colors, and cut animals out of the sheets to frame as art for her walls (see
the how-to
).
A
S
I
’VE BEEN DESCRIBING
, so many of the pieces of furniture, mattresses, shower curtains, candles, and other goods we bring into our home affect our quality of life (read: our health) in invisible ways, by off-gassing or releasing microscopic particles into the air that we breathe. The impact of home materials multiplies during a renovation, because of the high concentration of dust or construction by-products—as well as the risk of opening up a Pandora’s box of toxic exposures, from mold to lead paint. This section might read like a bit of a downer, but it’s important to scrutinize if you’re considering a renovation so you can be sure to take the safest precautions.
If your home was built before 1978, it probably has some of this. Contractors are required by law to be certified in lead-safe work practices, but if you go the DIY-route, you’ll need to check with your state’s Environmental Protection Agency for guidance on how to handle any lead paint you find. Visit
epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovaterightbrochure.pdf
for more info. This also applies to any salvaged or upcycled materials you might be incorporating into your renovation—people are so hot on furniture made from old shipping pallets, but they tend to forget that wood can contain all sorts of nastiness!
Again, older homes? Asbestos could be a major bummer, especially if you’ve got any of those delightful “popcorn” ceilings, vinyl flooring, or old insulation. You’ll need to hire a certified asbestos abatement contractor to test for and remove or seal in any asbestos in your house.
Remodeling can expose hidden mold, water damage, or leaks. If the affected area is larger than 10 square feet, the EPA recommends hiring a professional mold-abatement contractor (homeowners’ insurance may help defray the cost!) who knows how to do this right (contain spores, minimize exposure). Definitely factor in any potential moisture issues when you’re choosing building materials. For instance, carpet in the bathroom? Not so much.
Unfortunately, no single certification covers all health and environmental issues. Look for products certified by Greenguard (required in California), the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), and other organizations that are independent of any industry. Visit
healthybuilding.net
for more info.
Just because your building materials say they’re “safe for pets and kids” or “no-VOC” doesn’t mean they’re totally free from hazardous chemicals. Always use adequate ventilation, contain dust, and wear masks, protective goggles, or respirators if directed.
A) Having to repaint, retreat, or waterproof something every few months or year is a huge pain. B) It’s yet another opportunity to dump more chemicals on your house on a regular basis. Buy the higher-quality stuff that’s made to last for years without the constant upkeep.
Whether you’ve just painted a room or purchased a new sofa, it’s a good idea to open up the windows and run a fan to air it out for a day or two before you use it, especially if there’s a strong chemical smell right off the bat. You won’t vent out all the toxins, but doing so can reduce your exposure.