Beard on Bread (19 page)

Punch the dough down and knead in the nuts and the raisins. Divide the dough into two pieces, form into two loaves, and place in well-buttered 9 × 5 × 3-inch loaf tins, or else form one large loaf and bake in a buttered 12-inch tin. Cover and let rise again until doubled in bulk. Bake in a preheated 425° oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350° and continue baking for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the bread sounds hollow when tapped with the knuckles. Cool on a rack.

This is a rather sweet bread—actually, more like a coffee cake, of the type once called a “race track”—flavored with delicious, beautifully green pistachio nuts. It is rolled, formed into a very large ring, and sliced before baking. It looks and tastes extraordinarily good, and is certainly one of the best breads of this kind I have ever had. It provides about 12 servings.

[1 ring loaf]

Combine the yeast, 1 tablespoon sugar, and water in a large mixing bowl, and allow to proof. Then add the milk, the softened butter, the salt, and ½ cup sugar to the yeast mixture. Add the flour, cup by cup, beating well after each addition. (This dough is easy to handle but will be a little sticky at this stage.) Turn out on a lightly floured board and knead for a good 10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. Form into a ball, place in a buttered bowl, and turn to coat the surface with butter. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm, draft-free spot to double in bulk.

Punch the dough down and turn out on a floured board. Let rest for a few minutes, then roll into a rectangle about 18 × 12 inches. Brush the surface with the melted butter and sprinkle with ⅓ cup additional sugar and the coarsely chopped pistachio nuts. Beginning with the long edge of the rectangle, roll up the dough like a jelly roll, pressing each seam as you do so. Join the ends of the roll and pinch together to form a ring.
Place the ring carefully on a buttered baking sheet. Slice two-thirds of the way down into the ring, at ¾-inch intervals. Twist each slice to the right so that the interior of the slice is now facing upwards. Let the ring rise in a warm, draft-free place until almost doubled in size. Brush the entire surface with beaten egg, then bake in a preheated 375° oven for 30 to 35 minutes until nicely browned. Cool on a rack before serving.

This is another coffee bread, baked in a tube pan, one that I have enjoyed all my life. In fact, it is my favorite of all the sweet breads. The apricot glaze gives it a superb color and sheen, and the flavor makes it a rich, delicious accompaniment to coffee or tea.

[2 ring loaves]

Combine the yeast, ¼ cup of the sugar, and lukewarm water in a large bowl, and allow to proof. Stir in the remaining ¼ cup of sugar, salt,
milk, sour cream, lemon juice, and vanilla and mix well. Add the egg yolks and blend. With your fingertips, rapidly work the butter into 5 cups of the flour as you would for pie dough, to produce a dry, meal-like consistency. Add this to the yeast mixture and begin to knead in the bowl, adding more flour if necessary, to make a smooth, elastic dough. Turn out on a lightly floured board and knead 5 to 6 minutes. Shape into a ball and place in a lightly buttered bowl, turning to coat the surface with butter. Cover tightly and refrigerate to let rise for at least 4 hours or until doubled in bulk. Remove from the refrigerator, punch down, and turn out on a lightly floured board. (The dough can be kept in the refrigerator for as long as 3 days, in which case it should be punched down twice a day, until ready to roll out.)

Divide the dough in half, and roll out each piece into a rectangle about 10 × 14 inches. Brush each rectangle with melted butter, and sprinkle with the brown or white sugar and cinnamon. Over this sprinkle the
drained currants and then the finely chopped nuts. Gently press the filling into the dough with the rolling pin. Roll up from the wide end, jelly-roll fashion. Heavily butter two 9-inch tube pans. Carefully fit the rolls into the pans so that the ends of the dough join.

Cover and let rise until doubled in bulk. Bake in a preheated 375° oven 45 to 55 minutes, until they are golden brown and give off a hollow sound when rapped with the knuckles. Let cool for 15 minutes in the pans, then invert on a rack. Meanwhile, melt the apricot jam over low heat. Add the brandy, Cointreau, or Grand Marnier, and blend. Strain, and coat the sides and top of the cakes with the glaze while the cakes are still warm. Cool them thoroughly before slicing.

This is a sensationally good and oddly textured sweet bread or coffee cake. It has been known as monkey bread for as long as I can remember. I have never seen an explanation for the name; perhaps it has stuck because of the bread’s silly shape. I have also heard it called bubble bread. It is made in a tube pan, and if you follow directions carefully you will have a very light finished product that can be cooled and sliced or served warm and pulled apart in little clumps. You must, however, take special care in the baking to see that it is thoroughly cooked before it comes out of the oven.

[1 ring loaf]

Combine the yeast, white sugar, and water in a large mixing bowl. While this is proofing, stir 1 stick of the butter and the salt into the warm milk. (The butter does not need to melt completely.) Add to the yeast mixture. Stir in the whole eggs and egg yolks. Beat with a wooden spoon or with the hands to blend thoroughly. Add the flour, 1 cup at a time, stirring well after each addition. (After the first 5 cups it will get harder to incorporate the flour and the dough will be very sticky.) Turn out on a floured board, and using a baker’s scraper or large spatula, scrape under the flour on the board, lift the dough, and fold it over. Continue this procedure, adding more flour until the dough is no longer sticky and can be kneaded
with your hands. Knead a full 10 minutes, until the dough is elastic and pliable. Shape into a ball and put in a buttered bowl, turning to coat all over with butter. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm, draft-free place to rise until doubled in bulk. Punch the dough down and let rest for 5 minutes. Turn out on a lightly floured board (using about 1 tablespoon flour) and again shape into a ball. Let rest for another 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, butter a 10-inch tube pan.