Beard on Bread (5 page)

Now begin the
kneading process, which evenly distributes the fermenting yeast cells through the dough. There are several ways to knead,
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but I prefer this one-handed method: Sprinkle the dough lightly with flour and also flour your working hand. Push the heel of your hand down into the dough and away from you. Fold the dough over, give it a quarter turn, and push again with the hand. Continue the sequence of pushing, folding, and turning until it becomes a rhythmic motion. Knead until the dough no longer feels sticky and has a smooth, satiny, elastic texture, adding more flour, if necessary; this will take anywhere from 4 to 10 minutes, depending
on the character of the flour and the warmth and humidity of the room. To test whether the dough has been kneaded enough, make an indentation in it with your fingers; it should spring back. Sometimes blisters will form on the surface of the dough and break, which is another sign that the
kneading is sufficient.

When the dough has reached the consistency described above—with experience you will know what this means by the feel of it—it is ready for the first
rising. (Rising allows the fermenting yeast to produce tiny bubbles of carbon dioxide, which stretches the gluten in the flour and thus leavens the bread.) First, rest the dough on the board for several minutes. Meanwhile, wash out the mixing bowl, dry it, and rub it with 1 to 1½ tablespoons of softened butter.
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Place the ball of dough in the bowl, and roll it around so that it becomes completely coated with butter. (This will keep the surface from drying out and cracking as the dough rises.) Cover the bowl with a piece of plastic wrap or foil or with a towel and set in a warm, draft-free place. (The term “draft-free,” which you will encounter repeatedly, is used because the yeast must be pampered with constant warmth to keep it active.) Find a protected corner or shelf, or use a cool oven (it won’t hurt if the pilot light is on). Allow the dough to double in bulk, which will take about 1 to 2 hours.

It is difficult for a beginner to tell when dough has actually doubled in volume, but the increase is dramatically more than one might expect. You can get the idea best by pouring 4 cups of water into the empty bowl
(before it has been greased) and then pouring in the same amount again, noting how high up the water comes. Fortunately there is another, surer test to show when the dough is properly risen. When it looks ready, simply make an indentation in it with two fingers. If the dough
does not
spring back, then it is ready. It will not hurt should it rise a little too much, but excessive rising will affect the flavor and texture of the finished bread. If for some reason you must prolong a rising, place the bowl of dough in the refrigerator to slow down the action of the yeast.

The dough must now undergo a second rising, which will take place in the baking pan. Thoroughly butter one or two heavily tinned loaf pans.
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Then remove the cover from the bowl and deflate the dough by pushing down into it with your fist. Transfer it to a floured board, knead it rather well for about 3 minutes, then pat it into a smooth round or oval shape. Let it rest for 4 to 5 minutes, then form it into a loaf about 8 inches long and 3 inches wide.
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Lift it carefully, drop it into the loaf pan, and smooth it out.

Cover the loaf pan, as you did the bowl, and set it in a warm, draft-free place to double in bulk, at which point the loaf will have risen slightly
above the edge of the pan. The second rising will take anywhere from 40 minutes to 1¼ hours, according to the warmth of the room and the way you have worked the dough. Don’t rush the process, and watch the dough carefully. Meanwhile, set the oven for 400°.
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There are various ways to treat the loaf before it goes into the oven. For this recipe, merely brush the dough with cold water, which helps to give the top a textured crust.
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Then, with a sharp knife make three diagonal slashes about ½ inch deep across the top of the loaf, both for a more
professional look and to prevent cracking.
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Place the pan near the center of the lower oven rack and set a timer for 35 minutes. Begin
testing after that time, even though the total baking time may be as much as 50 minutes. To test, rap the top of the loaf with your knuckles. When done, it will sound hollow. Invert the loaf onto a towel held in one hand and test the bottom as well for that hollow sound. If it does not seem quite firm enough and needs only a little more baking, place the loaf directly on the oven rack to crisp the bottom, watching it carefully to prevent it from burning. If the test shows that the bottom is somewhat soft, slide the loaf back into the heated pan and return it to the oven to bake for 5 or 6 minutes more. Test the bottom again, and when firm enough, bake the un-molded loaf a few minutes for the final crisping. When completely baked, remove from the oven and set on a bread rack to cool.

After 2 or 3 hours the bread is good for slicing. When it is thoroughly cooled it can be stored in a plastic bag, in or out of the refrigerator, for several days. It also freezes well, and a frozen loaf, wrapped airtight, can be stored for a month. To reheat, remove from the freezer, wrap in aluminum foil, and heat in a 350° oven for about 20 to 40 minutes.

1.
If you use
compressed yeast, crumble it into a measuring cup, add the sugar, and cream the two ingredients together with a spoon for a minute or two, until the mixture becomes quite soft and runny; this helps activate the yeast. Add the warm water—in this instance no warmer than 95°.

2.
I feel that 1 tablespoon of salt to 1 pound of flour is the right seasoning, but some people feel it is too much. You can increase or decrease the amount according to your taste. (A sweet bread, for instance, may not take as much.)

3.
Milk can be used instead of water; it makes a somewhat richer bread.

4.
Here are three alternative ways to knead:

  A. Push into the dough with the heel of your right hand (if you are right-handed), then fold the dough toward you, at the same time giving the mass a quarter turn with your left hand, pulling it toward you; this is one continuous circular motion. Repeat the procedure, increasing your speed. It sounds complicated but is in fact quite simple and fast, and it gives a better fold.

  B. Many people prefer to knead with both hands. In this procedure you push into the dough with the heels of the hands, fold the dough over, and give it a quarter turn before pushing again.

  C. You can use the dough hook in the electric mixer; see
description
.

5.
You can also use vegetable oil.

6.
You can also use aluminum, aluminum foil, stainless steel, or glass.

7.
Here are two alternative ways to shape a loaf:

  A. Pat or roll the dough into a strip about as wide as the bottom of the loaf pan and approximately three times the length of the pan. Lightly mark the dough into thirds or just visualize the divisions. Fold the first third over the middle third, and pinch the edges together very well. Fold the final third over the other two thirds, again pinching the edges together. Then with both hands plump the loaf and fit it into the buttered pan.