Consuming Passions: Leisure and Pleasure in Victorian Britain (86 page)

Stratton, Michael, and Barrie Trinder, ‘The Foundations of a Textile Community: Sir Robert Peel at Fazeley’,
Textile History
, 26, 2 (1995), 185-201

Styles, John, ‘Clothing the North: The Supply of Non-Elite Clothing in the Eighteenth-Century North of England’,
Textile History
, 25, 2 (1994), 139-66

——, ‘Involuntary Consumers: Servants and their Clothes in Eighteenth-Century England’,
Textile History
, 33 (2002), 9-21 Sutherland, John A.,
Fiction and the Fiction Industry
(London, Athlone Press, 1978)

——,
Victorian Fiction: Writers, Publishers, Readers
(Basingstoke, Macmillan, 1995)

——,
Victorian Novelists and Publishers
(Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 1976)

Sutton, G. B, ‘The Marketing of Ready Made Footwear in the Nineteenth Century: A Study of the Firm of C. & J. Clark’,
Business History
, 6, 2 (1964), 93-112

Swinglehurst, Edmund,
Cook’s Tours: The Story of Popular Travel
(Poole, Blandford, 1982)

——,
The Romantic Journey: The Story of Thomas Cook and Victorian Travel
(London, Pica, 1974)

Teich, Mikulás, and Roy Porter, eds.,
The Industrial Revolution in National Context: Europe and the USA
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1996)

Temperley, Nicholas, ed.,
Music in Britain: The Romantic Age, 1800-1914
, vol. 5 of
The Blackwell History of Music in Britain
, gen. ed. Ian Spink (Oxford, Blackwell, 1988)

Temple, Kathryn,
Scandal Nation: Law and Authorship in Britain, 1750-1832
(Ithaca and London, Cornell University Press, 2003)

Thompson, E. P., ‘The Moral Economy of the English Crowd in the Eighteenth Century’,
Past and Present
, 50 (1971), 76-136

——, ‘Time, Work Discipline and Industrial Capitalism’,
Past and Present
, 38 (1967), 56-97

Thompson, F. M. L., ed.,
The Cambridge Social History of Britain, 1750-1950
, vol. 3:
Social Agencies and Institutions
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1990)

——, ed.,
The Rise of Suburbia
(Leicester, Leicester University Press, 1982)

Tilly, L., ‘Food Entitlement, Famine, and Conflict’,
Journal of Interdisciplinary History
, 14, 2 (1983), 333-49

Tischler, Steven,
Footballers and Businessmen: The Origins of Professional Football in England
(London, Holmes & Meier, 1981)

Tinniswood, Adrian,
A History of Country House Visiting: Five Centuries of Tourism and Taste
(Oxford, Basil Blackwood and the National Trust, 1989)

Towner, John, ‘The Grand Tour: A Key Phase in the History of Tourism’,
Annals of Tourism Research
, 12, 3 (1985), 297-333

Tranter, Neil,
Sport, Economy and Society in Britain, 1750-1914
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1998)

Travis, Anthony S.,
The Rainbow Makers: The Origins of the Synthetic Dyestuffs Industry in Western Europe
(Bethlehem, Pa., Lehigh University, Associated Universities Presses, 1993)

Tylecote, Mabel,
The Mechanics’ Institutes of Lancashire and Yorkshire before 1851
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1957)

Uglow, Jenny,
The Lunar Men: The Friends Who Made the Future, 1730-1810
(London, Faber, 2002)

Vamplew, Wray,
Pay Up and Play the Game: Professional Sport in Britain, 1875-1914
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1988)

——,
The Turf: A Social and Economic History of Horse Racing
(London, Allen Lane, 1976)

Vaughan, J.,
The English Guide Book, c.1780-1870
(Newton Abbot, David and Charles, 1974)

Vicinus, Martha, ed.,
A Widening Sphere: Changing Roles of Victorian Women
(Bloomington, Indiana University Press, 1977)

Vickery, Amanda,
The Gentleman’s Daughter: Women’s Lives in Georgian England
(London, Yale University Press, 1998)

Vries, J. de, ‘The Industrial Revolution and the Industrious Revolution’,
Journal of Economic History
, 54 (1994), 249-70

Vries, Leonard de,
Victorian Advertisements
(London, John Murray, [1968])

Walkley, Christina,
Dressed to Impress: 1840-1914
(London, Batsford, 1989)

——,
The Way to Wear ‘Em: 150 Years of Punch on Fashion
(London, Peter Owen, 1985)

——, and Vanda Foster,
Crinolines and Crimping Irons: Victorian Clothes: How They were Cleaned and Cared For
(London, Peter Owen, 1978)

Walkowitz, Judith,
City of Dreadful Delight
(London, Virago, 1992)

Waller, Philip, ed.,
The English Urban Landscape
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 2000)

Walsh, Claire, ‘Shop Design and the Display of Goods in Eighteenth-Century London’,
Journal of Design History
, 8, 3 (1995), 157-76

Walton, John K.,
Wonderlands by the Waves: A History of the Seaside Resorts of Lancashire
(Preston, Lancashire County Books, 1992)

Walvin, James,
Football and theDecline ofBritain
(Basingstoke, Macmillan, 1986)

——,
Fruits of Empire: Exotic Produce and British Taste, 1660-1800
(New York, New York University Press, 1997)

——,
Leisure and Society, 1830-1950
(London, Longman, 1978)

——,
The People’s Game: The History of Football Revisited
(Edinburgh, Mainstream, 1994)

——and J. K. Walton, eds.,
Leisure in Britain, 1780-1939
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1983)

Ward, Stephen V.,
Selling Places: The Marketing and Promotion of Towns and Cities, 1850-2000
(London, E. & F. N. Spon, 1998)

Waterfield, Giles, ed.,
Palaces of Art: Art Galleries in Britain, 1790-1990
(London, Dulwich Picture Gallery, 1991)

Waugh, Norah,
The Cut of Men’s Clothes, 1600-1900
(New York, Theatre Arts Books, 1964)

——,
The Cut of Women’s Clothes 1600-1930
(London, Faber, 1968) Weatherill, Lorna,
Consumer Behaviour and Material Culture in Britain, 1660-1760
(London, Routledge, 1988)

Webb, Igor,
From Custom to Capital: The English Novel and the Industrial Revolution
(Ithaca, Cornell University Press, 1981)

Weber, William, ‘Mass Culture and the Reshaping of European Musical Taste, 1770-1870’,
International Review of the Aesthetics and Sociology of Music
, 8 (1977), 5-22

——,
Music and the Middle Class: The Social Structure of Concert Life in London, Paris and Vienna
(London, Croom Helm, 1975)

——,
The Rise of Musical Classics in Eighteenth-Century England: A Study in Canon, Ritual, and Ideology
(Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1992)

Weightman, Gavin, and Steve Humphries,
Christmas Past
(London, Sidgwick & Jackson, 1987)

White, Cynthia L.,
Women’s Magazines, 1693-1968
(London, Michael Joseph, 1970)

Wilensky, Harold L., ‘The Professionalization of Everyone?’,
American Journal of Sociology
, 70 (1964), 137-58

Wilk, R., ‘Consumer Goods as a Dialogue about Development’,
Culture and History
, 7 (1990), 79-100

Williamson, Geoffrey,
Wheels within Wheels: The Story of the Starleys of Coventry
(London, Geoffrey Bles, 1966)

Wilmot, Sarah,
’The Business of Improvement’: Agriculture and Scientific Culture in Britain, c.1770-c.1870
(Bristol, Historical Geography Research Series, no. 24, 1990)

Wilson, A. E.,
Christmas Pantomime: The Story of an English Institution
(London, George Allen & Unwin, 1934)

Wilson, Elizabeth,
The Sphinx in the City: Urban Life, the Control of Disorder, and Women
(London, Virago, 1991)

Wilson, R. G.,
Gentlemen Merchants: The Merchant Community in Leeds, 1700-1830
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1971)

Wilton, Andrew, and Ilaria Bignamini, eds.,
The Grand Tour: The Lure of Italy in the 18th Century
(London, Tate, 1996)

Wind, E., ‘The Revolution of History Painting’,
Journal of the Warburg Institute
, 2 (1938-9), 116-27

Winstanley, Michael J.,
The Shopkeeper’s World, 1830-1914
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1983)

Wise, Sarah,
The Italian Boy: Murder and Grave-Robbery in 1830s London
(London, Jonathan Cape, 2004)

Wolff, Janet, and John Seed, eds.,
The Culture of Capital: Art, Power and the Nineteenth-Century Middle Class
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1988)

Womack, Peter,
Improvement and Romance: Constructing the Myth of the Highlands
(Basingstoke, Macmillan, 1989)

Woodforde, John,
The Story of the Bicycle
(London, Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1970)

Woodmansee, Martha,
The Author, Art and the Market: Rereading the History of Aesthetics
(New York, Columbia University Press, 1994)

——, ‘The Genius and the Copyright: Economic and Legal Conditions of the Emergence of the “Author”’,
Eighteenth-Century Studies
, 17, 4 (1984), 425-48

——, and Peter Jaszi, eds.,
The Construction of Authorship: Textual Appropriation in Law and Literature
(Durham, NC, Duke University Press, 1991)

Wright, Gwendolyn, ed.,
The Formation of National Collections of Art and Archaeology
, Studies in the History of Art, 47, Center for Advanced Study in the Visual Arts, Symposium Papers 27 (Washington, DC, National Gallery of Art, 1996)

Yanni, Carla,
Nature’s Museums: Victorian Science and the Architecture of Display
(Baltimore, Johns Hopkins University Press, 1999)

Zachs, William,
The First John Murray and the Late 18th-Century Book Trade
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1998)

Zionkowski, Linda, ‘Territorial Disputes in the Republic of Letters: Canon Formation and the Literary Profession’,
The Eighteenth Century: Theory and Interpretation
, 31 (1990), 3-22

Ziter, Edward,
The Orient on the Victorian Stage
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 2003)

NOTES

Preface

1
Samuel Johnson,
A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland
(1775), ed. Peter Levi (Harmondsworth, Penguin, 1984), p. 48.

2
James Pope-Hennessy,
Queen Mary: 1867-1953
(London, Unwin, 1959), pp. 277-8.

3
Edward Gibbon,
The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire
(1776-88), ed. David Womersley (Harmondsworth, Allen Lane, 1994), vol. 2, ch. 31, p. 174.

1:
From Arcadia to Arcade: The Great Exhibition

1
This was from a speech given at the Mansion House, 21 March 1850 and reported in
The Times
, 22 March 1850, p. 5, col. b.

2
Marie Mulvey Roberts, ‘Pleasures Engendered by Gender: Homosociality and the Club’, in Roy Porter and Marie Mulvey Roberts, eds.,
Pleasure in the Eighteenth Century
(Basingstoke, Macmillan, 1996), p. 48.

3
Joseph Addison,
The Spectators
, ed. Donald F. Bond (Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1965), vol. 1, p. 34.

4
Pat Rogers, ‘Joseph Addison’, in
Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
, Oxford University Press, 2004.

5
John Brewer,
The Pleasures of the Imagination: English Culture in the Eighteenth Century
(London, HarperCollins, 1997), p. 35.

6
Addison,
The Spectators
,
Spectator
9, p. 42.

7
Peter Clark,
British Clubs and Societies, 1580-1800: The Origins of an Associational World
(Oxford, Clarendon Press, 2000), p. 89.

8
Ibid., pp. 67-8.

9
The information on the formation of the RSA, and its finances, comes from Derek Hudson and Kenneth W. Luckhurst,
The Royal Society of Arts, 1754-1954
(London, John Murray, 1954), pp. 6-11, 41.

10
R. Campbell,
The London Tradesman, being a compendious view of all the trades, professions, arts, both liberal and mechanic, now practised in the cities of London and Westminster
(London, T. Gardner, 1747), pp. 103, 110, 108, 106.

11
Sarah Lowengard, ‘Colours and colour making in the eighteenth century’, in Maxine Berg and Helen Clifford, eds.,
Consumers and Luxury: Consumer Culture in Europe, 1650-1850
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1999), pp. 104-5.

12
Cited in Jeffrey A. Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition of 1851: A Nation on Display
(London, Yale University Press, 1999), p. 12.

13
Toys described in George Buday,
The History of the Christmas Card
(London, Spring Books, 1964), pp. 7-8.

14
Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, pp. 70, 57, 65.

15
Cited in ibid., p. 64.

16
P. Greenhalgh,
Ephemeral Vistas: The Expositions Universelles, Great Exhibitions and World’s Fairs, 1851-1939
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1988), pp. 28-9.

17
From the
Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue
(London, Spicer Bros., 1851), contents pages.

18
William Felkin,
The Exhibition in 1851, of the Products and Industry of All Nations. Its Probable Influence upon Labour and Commerce
(London, Arthur Hall, Virtue, 1851), pp. 5, 8.

19
Horace Greeley,
Glances at Europe: In a Series of Letters from Great Britain, France, Italy, Switzerland, &c., during the Summer of 1851, including notices of the Great Exhibition, or World’s Fair
(New York, Dewitt & Davenport, 1851), p. 22.

20
Cited in Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, p. 108.

21
The episode, and interpretation, are highlighted in ibid., p. 96.

22
Blotters, letter-openers, perspective view and cigar boxes: John Johnson Collection of Ephemera, Bodleian Library, JJ Great Exhibition Artefacts 3, 4. Handkerchief: ibid., JJ Printed Fabrics, 1. Gloves: Sarah Levitt,
Victorians Unbuttoned: Registered Designs for Clothing, their Makers and Wearers, 1839-1900
(London, George Allen & Unwin, 1986), p. 20.

23
John Johnson Collection, JJ Tea & Coffee 2.

24
Official Catalogue
, vol. 2, section 11, Cotton, entry 51.

25
Knives and cutlery from
Official Catalogue
, vol. 2, section 21, entry 690. Vase described in Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, pp. 112-13.

26
Levitt,
Victorians Unbuttoned
, pp. 106-7.

27
The anti-concussion hat: Patrick Beaver,
The Crystal Palace: A Portrait of Victorian Enterprise
(2nd ed., London, Phillimore, 1986), p. 51. Yachting clothes and doctor’s suit: Alison Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping, 1800-1914: Where, and in What Manner the Well-Dressed Englishwoman Bought her Clothes
(London, George Allen & Unwin, 1981), p. 92. ‘Duplexa’ coat:
Official Catalogue
, vol. 2, section 20, entry 69.

28
Adburgham,
Shops and Shopping
, p. 92.

29
Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, p. 110; Beaver,
The Crystal Palace
, p. 52.

30
Official Catalogue
, vol. 2, sections 10 and 26, entries 468, 477a, 484, 496. Smyth and Roberts’s piano, Cyril Ehrlich,
The Piano: A History
(rev. ed., Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1990), p. 28.

31
Official Catalogue
, vol. 2, section 10, entries 480, 487.

32
Illustrated London News
, 14 June 1851, p. 570.

33
Henry Mayhew and George Cruikshank,
1851: or, The Adventures of Mr and Mrs Sandboys and Family, Who Came Up to London to ‘Enjoy Themselves’, and to See the Great Exhibition
(London, George Newbold, [1851]), p. 1.

34
Cited in Thomas Richards,
The Commodity Culture of Victorian England: Advertising and Spectacle, 1851-1914
(Stanford, Cal., Stanford University Press, 1990), p. 29. The original source is unclear, as there is a confusion in the footnote.

35
Paul Langford,
A Polite and Commercial People: England, 1727-1783
(Oxford, Oxford University Press, 1989; p/b 1992), pp. 68-9.

36
Ibid., p. 70.

37
Lorna Weatherill,
Consumer Behaviour and Material Culture in Britain, 1660-1760
(London, Routledge, 1988), p. 25.

38
Neil McKendrick, ‘The Consumer Revolution in Eighteenth-Century England’, in Neil McKendrick, John Brewer and J. H. Plumb,
The Birth of a Consumer Society: The Commercialization of Eighteenth-Century England
(London, Europa, 1982), p. 26.

39
Weatherill,
Consumer Behaviour
, p. 25.

40
George Colman and David Garrick,
The Clandestine Marriage
, in William Jones,
Jones’s British Theatre
(Dublin, John Chambers, 1795), vol. 9, p. 40.

41
Peter Mathias,
The Transformation of England: Essays in the Economic and Social History of England in the Eighteenth Century
(London, Methuen, 1979), p. 162.

42
Punch
, 30 October 1880, p. 194.

43
Cited in Lori Anne Loeb,
Consuming Angels: Advertising and Victorian Women
(New York, Oxford University Press, 1994), p. 26.

44
Cited in Dianne Sachko Macleod,
Art and the Victorian Middle Class: Money and the Making of Cultural Identity
(Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1996), p. 274.

45
Cited in ibid., p. 275.

46
‘Helix’ [W. B. Adams], ‘The Industrial Exhibition of 1851’,
Westminster Review
, April 1850, p. 97.

47
Walter Benjamin,
Charles Baudelaire: A Lyric Poet in the Era of High Capitalism
(London, Verso, 1983), p. 166.

48
The Letters of Queen Victoria: A Selection from Her Majesty’s Correspondence between the Years 1837 and 1861
, ed. Arthur Christopher Benson and Viscount Esher (London, John Murray, 1908), vol. 2, p. 317.

49
Cited in Greenhalgh,
Ephemeral Vistas
, p. 31.

50
Punch
, 1851, p. 43.

51
Illustrated London News
, 31 May 1851, p. 501.

52
The Times
, 2 May 1851, p. 5, col. a.

53
Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, p. 138.

54
Jenny Uglow,
The Lunar Men: The Friends Who Made the Future, 1730-1810
(London, Faber, 2002), p. 216.

55
Statutes at Large, XVI, 388-94, cited in Clark,
British Clubs and Societies
, p. 351.

56
Ibid., pp. 350-51.

57
Richard D. Altick,
The English Common Reader: A Social History of the Mass Reading Public, 1800-1900
(Chicago, University of Chicago Press, 1957), p. 205.

58
Ibid., p. 202.

59
Cited in John Seed, ‘Commerce and the Liberal Arts: The Political Economy of Art in Manchester, 1775-1860’, in Janet Wolff and John Seed, eds.,
The Culture of Capital: Art, Power and the Nineteenth-Century Middle Class
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1988), p. 69.

60
H. Cunningham,
Leisure in the Industrial Revolution, c. 1780-c.1880
(London, Croom Helm, 1980), p. 101.

61
Jack Simmons,
The Victorian Railway
(London, Thames and Hudson, 1995), p. 272.

62
Michael Freeman,
Railways and the Victorian Imagination
(New Haven, Yale University Press, 1999), p. 114.

63
Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, p. 139.

64
Cited in Piers Brendon,
Thomas Cook: 150 Years of Popular Tourism
(London, Secker & Warburg, 1991), p. 58.

65
Ibid., p. 57.

66
Ibid., p. 63.

67
Cited in Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, p. 136.

68
Ibid., pp. 141-2.

69
Mayhew,
1851
, p. 15.

70
Simmons,
The Victorian Railway
, p. 275; Philip S. Bagwell,
The Transport Revolution
(2nd ed., London, Routledge, 1988), p. 116.

71
Auerbach,
The Great Exhibition
, p. 135.

72
Ibid., p. 142.

73
[George Frederick Pardon],
The London Conductor; Being a Guide for Visitors to the Great Industrial Exhibition
. . . (London, John Cassell, 1851; reprint, Kilkenny, Boethius, 1984), n.p.

74
Christopher Breward,
The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life, 1860-1914
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1999), pp. 132-3.

75
Richard D. Altick,
The Shows of London
(Cambridge, Mass., The Belknap Press, 1978), pp. 462, 464-5, 426.

76
James Robinson Planché,
The Extravaganzas of J. R. Planché, Esq., Somerset Herald, 1825-1871
, ed. T. F. Dillon Croker and Stephen Tucker (5 vols., London, Samuel French, 1879). Mr Buckstone appears in vol. 5, pp. 5-34.

77
Brendon,
Thomas Cook
, p. 57.

78
The Times
, 29 May 1851, p. 8, col. a.

2:
‘A Nation of Shopkeepers’: The Eighteenth-century Shop

1
Idler
, 56 (12 May 1759), in Samuel Johnson,
Idler and Adventurer
, Yale Edition of the Works of Samuel Johnson, vol. 2 (New Haven, Yale University Press, 1963), p. 175.

2
Cited in Michael J. Winstanley,
The Shopkeeper’s World, 1830-1914
(Manchester, Manchester University Press, 1983), pp. 12-13.

3
Hoh-Cheung Mui and Lorna H. Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping in Eighteenth-Century England
(London, Routledge, 1989), p. 5.

4
Nancy Cox,
The Complete Tradesman: A Study of Retailing, 1550-1820
(Aldershot, Ashgate, 2000), p. 39.

5
Ibid., p. 42.

6
Ibid., pp. 36, 45, 44; Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, pp. 108-10.

7
Winstanley,
Shopkeeper’s World
, p. 15.

8
Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, pp. 77-9, 98.

9
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 47.

10
Ibid., p. 47.

11
Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, pp. 89-90.

12
Ibid., p. 129.

13
Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, pp. 207-8.

14
Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, p. 121.

15
Cited in Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 225.

16
Robin Reilly,
Josiah Wedgwood, 1730-1795
(London, Macmillan, 1992), p. 213.

17
Uglow,
Lunar Men
, p. 64.

18
Neil McKendrick, ‘The Commercialization of Fashion’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 68.

19
Cited in Mui and Mui,
Shops and Shopkeeping
, p. 14.

20
Cited in Cox,
Complete Tradesman
, pp. 110-12.

21
Ibid., p. 94.

22
Cited in ibid., pp. 90-92.

23
Cited in McKendrick, ‘The Commercialization of Fashion’, in McKendrick, Brewer, Plumb,
Birth of a Consumer Society
, p. 85.

Other books

The Word of a Liar by Beauchamp, Sally
Princess Ahira by K.M. Shea
Broken Things by G. S. Wright
A Kind of Magic by Susan Sizemore