Darjeeling (42 page)

Read Darjeeling Online

Authors: Jeff Koehler

I would particularly like to thank the following, beginning with people on the estates: Jay Neogi, Krishnendu Chatterjee, and Sumit Jha (Ambootia); Sumit Kumar (Bannockburn); Parminder Singh Bhoi (Castleton); Mukul Chowdhury (Ging); Sanjay Sharma, Husna-Tara Prakash, Jenni Bolton, Darlene Khan, and staff (Glenburn); Ashok Kumar, Prem, and staff (Goomtee); Rishi Saria (Gopaldhara); B. N. Mudgal, S. K. Choudhary, and Shantanu Kejriwal (Jungpana); Shankar Lal Chaudhury (Lingia); Rajah Banerjee, Kuldip Basu, Indrey Sarki, Sanjoy Mukherjee, Nayan Lama, and Maya Chettrini and family (Makaibari); Vijay Dhancholia and Normal Chhetri (Marybong); H. R. Chaudhary (Namring); B. B. Singh and Shiv Saria (Rohini); Satish Mantri (Singbulli); Suman Das (Thurbo); and Rajesh Pareek (Tukvar).

In Darjeeling, special thanks go to Sandeep Mukherjee at the DTA; Girish Sarda, Vijay Sarda, and Sailesh Sarda at Nathmulls; Elizabeth
Clarke, Tinduf-La, and staff at the Windamere Hotel; the staff of the Elgin Hotel; Shabnam Bhutia and staff at the Planters' Club; Maya Primlani and staff at the Oxford Book & Stationery Co.; the family at Kunga's restaurant; and R. N. Chatterjee. In Kurseong, thanks to Ravindra Kang, Laltu Purkait, and staff at the Cochrane Place Hotel. In Kolkata, thanks to Anindyo Choudhury, Sabyasachi Choudhury, Karanvir Singh Chadda, Kavi Seth at J. Thomas & Co.; Sujoy Sengupta at Chamong Tee; and Vinita Mansata at Earthcare Books. In Delhi, deep appreciation to Sanjay Kapur and assistants at Aap Ki Pasand, and Vikram Mittal and assistants at Mittal Stores. And in Munnar, Kerala, Sanjith Raju at KDHP.

A special thanks to those in India who patiently answered my many follow-up questions on the phone and by e-mail, checked details for me, and dug up statistics: Anindyo Choudhury, Vijay Dhancholia, Ravindra Kang, Vikram Mittal, Jay Neogi, Girish Sarda, Rishi Saria, and Sanjay Sharma. Much appreciated!

Outside of India, thanks to Steven Smith of Steven Smith Teamaker, Malcolm Gardner and Judith Kiely at the Rudolf Steiner Library of the Anthroposophical Society in America, Kiran Tawady of Hampstead Teas in London, and Salvador Sans at Sans & Sans in Barcelona.

For all of those friends who have shared pots of tea over the years (and all over the globe), many thanks for teaching me how much the drink can mean.

Deep appreciation goes to my agent, Doe Coover, who has been integral to this book from its inception.

At Bloomsbury USA, I wish to wholeheartedly thank George Gibson for his early enthusiasm, strong guidance, and keen editing. Also thanks to Rob Galloway, Nathaniel Knaebel, Laura Phillips, Gleni Bartels, and eagle-eyed copyeditor Steve Boldt. At Bloomsbury UK, Michael Fishwick, Oliver Holden-Rea, and Anna Simpson. At Bloomsbury India, special warm-hearted thanks to Diya Kar Hazra for her insight and enthusiasm. Also to the rest of the crew. And also to Anurima Roy, Yogesh Sharma, and the rest of the Delhi team. And those at Bloomsbury Australia.

And finally to my parents, Bill and Joanne and in-laws Tomàs and Rosa, for their help while I was researching the book. And to Eva, Alba, and Maia for their patience at my lengthy absences as I disappeared into the Darjeeling hills and then, once back home, my office.

Notes

TWO LEAVES AND A BUD

  
1.
   Main sources for details on the auction are the Fall 2003
Upton Tea Newsletter
; various contemporary newspaper articles; and a piece from the July 28, 2003, issue of
Outlook
, J. Thomas & Co. records; and an interview with the auctioneer at the time, Kavi Seth.

  
2.
   Singh, “Makaibari Tea Estate.”

  
3.
   Statistics from J. Thomas & Co.

  
4.
   Pratt, “Darjeeling—Part 3.”

  
5.
   “2003 Makaibari Silvertips.”

  
6.
   O’Connor, “Starbucks Opens Its First Tea Bar.”

  
7.
   Indian Tea Association Web site, “Chronology.”

  
8.
   Gandhi,
Key to Health
, 24.

CHAPTER 1: INTO THE HILLS

  
1.
   Forster,
Passage to India
, 96.

  
2.
   Ali,
Field Guide to the Birds of the Eastern Himalayas
, xi.

  
3.
   Twain,
Following the Equator
, 529.

  
4.
   Hooker,
Himalayan Journals
, 101.

  
5.
   Ibid., 103.

  
6.
   Ghosh,
Hungry Tide
, 6.

  
7.
   O’Malley,
Bengal District Gazetteer: Darjeeling
, 73.

CHAPTER 2: JOURNEY FROM THE EAST

  
1.
   Heiss and Heiss,
Story of Tea
, 4.

  
2.
   Ibid., 6.

  
3.
   Ibid., 7.

  
4.
   Hohenegger,
Liquid Jade
, 72.

  
5.
   Fisher,
Way of Tea
, 64.

  
6.
   Yü,
Classic of Tea
, 107.

  
7.
   Ibid., 111.

  
8.
   
Sōshitsu
,
Japanese Way of Tea
, 10.

  
9.
   Ibid.

10.
   Watts,
Way of Zen
, 86.

11.
   Ibid., 190.

12.
   Ibid.

13.
   Okakura,
Book of Tea
, 1.

14.
   Ibid.

15.
   Ibid., 64.

16.
   Ibid., 35.

17.
   Ibid., 11.

18.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 1:38.

19.
   Okakura,
Book of Tea
, 7.

20.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 1:23.

21.
   Ibid., 1:24–25.

22.
   Moxham,
Tea
, 27.

23.
   Wheeler,
Early Records of British India
, 22.

24.
   Illustration in Ukers,
All About Tea
, 2:294.

25.
   Ibid.

26.
   Cowper,
Selected Poems
, 40.

27.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 1:27.

28.
   Churchill,
Poetical Works of Charles Churchill
, 20.

29.
   Johnson, “Review of
A Journal of Eight Days’ Journey
.”

30.
   Illustration in Ukers,
All About Tea
, 2:294.

31.
   Pettigrew and Richardson,
New Tea Companion
, 12.

32.   Yü,
Classic of Tea
, 50.

CHAPTER 3: THE COMPANY

  
1.
   “Tea,”
Asiatic Journal
, 775.

  
2.
   Keay,
Honourable Company
, 24.

  
3.
   Ibid., 25.

  
4.
   Robins,
Corporation That Changed the World
, 43.

  
5.
   Keay,
Honourable Company
, 111.

  
6.
   Ibid., 81.

  
7.
   Robins,
Corporation That Changed the World
, 44.

  
8.
   Keay,
Honourable Company
, 78.

  
9.
   Robins,
Corporation That Changed the World
, 46.

10.
   Ali,
Twilight in Delhi
, x.

11.
   Robins,
Corporation That Changed the World
, 68.

12.
   Cavendish, “Black Hole of Calcutta.”

13.
   James,
Raj
, 30.

14.
   Robins,
Corporation That Changed the World
, 3.

15.
   Ibid., 73.

16.
   Ibid., 143.

17.
   Ali,
Twilight in Delhi
, x.

18.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 1:44.

19.
   Ibid., 1:73.

20.
   Ibid., 1:99.

21.
   Ibid.

22.
   Moxham,
Tea
, 27.

23.
   Robins,
Corporation That Changed the World
, 109.

24.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 2:130.

25.
   “History and View of the Tea Trade,” 345.

26.
   “Tea,”
Asiatic Journal
, 775.

27.
   Griffiths,
Tea
, 96.

28.
   Keay,
Honourable Company
, 430.

29.
   Ibid., 431.

30.
   Hanes and Sanello,
Opium Wars
, 19.

31.
   Keay,
Honourable Company
, 431.

32.
   Boorstin,
Discoverers
, 176.

33.
   Chopra,
Indigenous Drugs of India
, 205.

34.
   Watt,
Papaver Somniferum
, 19.

35.
   Dormandy,
Opium
, 64.

36.
   Watt,
Papaver Somniferum
, 19.

37.
   Martin,
Statistics of the Colonies
, 366.

38.
   Fay,
Opium War
, 14.

39.
   Griffiths,
Tea
, 242.

40.
   Trocki,
Opium, Empire
, 32.

41.
   Robins,
Corporation That Changed the World
, 157.

42.
   Trocki,
Opium, Empire
, 71.

43.
   Keay,
Honourable Company
, 452.

44.
   Fay,
Opium War
, 18.

45.
   Haines and Sanello,
Opium Wars
, 37.

46.
   Ibid., 55.

47.
   Dormandy,
Opium
, 139.

48.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 1:7.

49.
   Hanes and Sanello,
Opium Wars
, 156.

50.
   Griffiths,
Tea
, 95.

51.
   Dormandy,
Opium
, 151.

CHAPTER 4: AN INDIAN TEA INDUSTRY

  
1.
   Barua,
Urban History
, 47.

  
2.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 1:135.

  
3.
   Barua,
Urban History
, 47.

  
4.
   Ibid.

  
5.
   Griffiths,
History of the Indian Tea Industry
, 36.

  
6.
   
Original Correspondence of Sir Joseph Banks
, 8.

  
7.
   Kew Gardens Web site, “About Nathaniel Wallich.”

  
8.
   Arnold, “Plant Capitalism,” 917.

  
9.
   Ibid.

10.
   Ibid.

11.
   Ibid., 918.

12.
   Ibid., 917.

13.
   Mann,
Early History of the Tea Industry
, 6.

14.
   Ferguson,
Empire
, 142.

15.
   Ukers,
All About Tea
, 1:138.

16.
   Griffiths,
History of the Indian Tea Industry
, 41.

17.
   Dormandy,
Opium
, 130.

18.
   Griffiths,
History of the Indian Tea Industry
, 40.

19.
   Ibid., 41.

20.
   Ibid.

21.
   “Copy of Papers Received from India,” 99.

22.
   Ibid.

23.
   Mann,
Early History of the Tea Industry
, 12.

24.
   Griffiths,
History of the Indian Tea Industry
, 47.

25.
   Ukers,
All About Tea,
2:145.

26.
   Bruce,
Account of the Manufacture
, 16.

27.
   Griffiths,
History of the Indian Tea Industry
, 45.

28.
   Ukers,
All About Tea,
2:145.

29.
   Moxham,
Tea
, 99.

30.
   Scott,
Great Tea Venture
, 160.

31.
   Ibid, 2:99.

32.
   Bruce,
Account of the Manufacture
, 7.

33.
   Ibid., 8.

34.
   Ibid., 15.

35.
   Griffith,
Journals of Travels in Assam
, 15.

36.
   Griffiths,
History of the Indian Tea Industry
, 51.

37.
   Ibid.

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