Read Fannie's Last Supper Online

Authors: Christopher Kimball

Fannie's Last Supper (25 page)

Alvoud, Henry E
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Amory, Cleveland.
The Proper Bostonians
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Ayto, John.
An A to Z of Food and Drink
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Bailer, Liberty Hyde and Wilhelm Miller.
Cyclopedia of American Horticulture
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Berriedale-Johnson.
The Victorian Cookbook
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Brande, William Thomas.
Chemistry
. Henry C. Lea, 1867.

Bromley, A. G. and T. Percy Lewis.
The Victorian Book of Cakes
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Davidson, Alan.
Oxford Companion to Food
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Davies, Jennifer.
The Victorian Kitchen
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Delamere, Edmund S. and Ellen J.
Wholesome Fare, or, the Doctor and the Cook
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Dubois, Urbain.
La Patisserie D’Aujuord’hui
. Ernest Flammarion, 1894.

Dudden, Faye E.
Serving Women
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Escoffier, A.
The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery
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Farmer, Fannie Merritt.
The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book
. Little Brown and Company, 1913.

Farmer, Fannie Merritt.
The 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book
. Gramercy Books, 1997.

Feintuch, Burt and David H. Watters, editors.
Encyclopedia of New England: The Culture and History of an American Region.
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The Delmonico Cook Book
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Fitzgerald, Kathleen and Keith Stavely.
America’s Founding Food
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Freeman, Dr. Larry.
Victorian Silver
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Garrett, Theodore Francis.
The Encyclopaedia of Practical Cookery
. L. Upcott Gill, 1895.

Gilbert, B. D.
The Cheese Industry of the State of New York
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Gillette, Mrs. F. L. and Hugo Ziemann.
The White House Cookbook.
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Grover, Kathryn.
Dining in America 1850–1900
. The University of Massachusetts Press, 1987.

Gunn, John C.
Gunn’s Domestic Medicine
, 1830.

Hall, Mary Elizabeth.
Candy-Making Revolutionized
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Hanke, Oscar, John Skinner, and James Florea.
American Poultry History 1823–1973.
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Hooker, Richard J.
A History of Food and Drink in America.
The Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc. 1981.

Howard, George.
Ducks and Geese, Standard Varieties of Management, Farmer’s Bulletin Number 64
. U. S. Department of Agriculture, 1897.

Howe, M. A. DeWolfe.
A Partial (and not impartial) Semi-Centennial History of The Tavern Club
. The Riverside Press, 1934.

Kellogg, Ella Eaton.
Science in The Kitchen
. Modern Medicine Publishing Co. Ltd., 1892.

Kelly, Ian.
Cooking for Kings
. Walker & Company, 2003.

King, John.
King’s American Dispensatory
, Vol. 1. The Ohio Valley Company, 1909.

King, Moses.
King’s Hand-Book of Boston
, fifth edition. Moses King Publishers, 1878.

Kochiss, John.
Oystering from New York to Boston
. Wesleyan University Press, 1974.

Kummer, Corby. “Pasta.”
The Atlantic
, July, 1986.

Kummer, Corby.
The Joy of Coffee.
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Lincoln, Mrs. D. A.
Mrs. Lincoln’s Boston Cook Book
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Marmion, Daniel.
Handbook of U.S. Colorants
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Marshall, Mrs. A. B.
Larger Cookery Book of Extra Recipes
. Marshall’s School of Cookery, 1891.

Molokhovets, Elena.
Classic Russian Cooking
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Mooney, Michael Macdonald,
Evelyn Nesbit and Stanford White
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Love and Death in the Gilded Age
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Household Science and Arts
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Uncommon Grounds.
Basic Books, 1999.

Perkins, Dexter.
Yield of the Years
. Little Brown and Company, 1969.

Pinney, Thomas.
A History of Wine in America
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Plante, Ellen M.
The American Kitchen
. Facts on File, 1995.

Quincy, John, Jr.
Quincy’s Market
. Northeastern University Press, 2003.

Robinson, Jancis.
Oxford Companion to Wine.
Oxford University Press, 1999.

Rolph, George Morrison.
Something about Sugar
. John J. Newbegin, 1917.

Rosenberg, Chaim M.
The Great Workshop: Boston’s Victorian Age
. Arcadia Publishing, 1994.

Rossiter, William S.
Days and Ways in Old Boston
. R. H. Stearns and Company, 1915.

Sammarco, Anthony Mitchell.
Boston’s South End.
Arcadia Publishing, 1998
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Scott, Alan and Daniel Wing.
The Bread Builders.
Chelsea Green Publishing, 1999.

Shapiro, Laura.
Perfection Salad:
Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century
. Farrar, Straus, and Giroux, 1986.

Sherwood, Mrs. John M. E. W.
Manners and Social Useages
. Harper & Brothers Publishers, 1884.

Stavely, Keith and Kathleen Fitzgerald.
America’s Founding Food
. The University of North Carolina Press, 2004.

Surface, George Thomas.
The Story of Sugar
. D. Appleton & Co., 1916.

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The Cornhill Magazine,
July–December, 1863.

Thompson, George.
Venus in Boston
. University of Massachusetts Press, 2002.

Ukers, William H.
All About Coffee.
The Tea & Coffee Trade Journal Company, 1935.

Vrabel, Jim.
When in Boston, A Time Line & Almanac.
Northeastern University Press, 2004.

Volo, James M. and Dorothy Denneen.
Family Life in 19th-Century America.
Greenwood Press, 1947.

Weston, George F., Jr.
Boston Ways: High, By and Folk
. Beacon Press, 1957.

Williams, Alexander W.
A Social History of the Greater Boston Clubs
. Barre Publishers, 1970.

Williams, Jacqueline.
Wagon Wheel Kitchens: Food on the Oregon Trail
. University Press of Kansas, 1993.

Woloson, Wendy.
Refined Tastes
. The Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002.

Zuckerman, Larry.
The Potato
. North Point Press, 1998.

The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.

Abbott, John, 18–19

Abel, Mary, 180

Accum, Frederick, 186

Alan, Tames, 60

almond butter cake, 208–10

American Kitchen Magazine,
24, 133

American oven, 108

Andrés, José, 225, 226, 228, 229, 230, 233, 235

Apicius, 63

Appert, Nicolas, 179

apples, 174–76

Fannie’s applesauce to accompany roasted goose, 177–78

Arbuckle, John, 213–14

Arktinsal, Emile, 133, 228

artichokes, 132, 133–34

fried baby, 18, 216

recipe for, 135–36

Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, The
(Glasse), 44

asparagus, 139

Atlantic,
146

Baines, Russell, 238

bain-marie, 107

baking, 193–97, 205

baking powder, 193, 194

barding, 142

Barrows, Anna, 133

beans, Munroe baked, 149–50

Beard, James, 242

Beaux Arts Club, 15

beef, 56, 139

heart, stuffed, 139

steak, 138–39

beets, 98–99

glazed, 100

Bellamy, Edward, 180

Benson, Frank, 242

Bittman, Kelly, 225, 228, 229

Bittman, Mark, 225, 228, 229

boiling, 181

Borden, Lizzie, 13

Boston:

clubs in, 70–71

Kimball home in, 5, 7, 9–10, 13, 159, 228

railroads and, 40

South End of, 7–13, 40

walking tour of, 39–41

worldview in, 81–82

Boston, Victorian, 13–14, 39–41, 81–84

clubs in, 69, 70–71

commercial establishments in, 39

food shopping in, 117–27

homes in, 11–12

restaurants in, 69–70

shipping and, 154–55

tourist attractions in, 14

transportation and, 14, 82, 151

Boston Cooking School, 2, 12–13, 23–28, 39, 41, 53, 56

Boston Cooking School Cook Book
(Lincoln), 24

Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, The
(
The Fannie Farmer Cookbook
) (Farmer), 5, 16, 24, 25, 27, 28–29, 54, 59, 111, 154, 166, 241

1913 edition of, 152–53

Boston cream pie, 197

Boston Daily Globe,
185–86

Boston Food Fair, 3–4, 59

Boston Globe,
13, 85, 87, 88, 110, 126, 142–43, 166

Boston Herald,
27

Boston Public Library, 13

Boston School Kitchen Text-book
(Lincoln), 24

bottle jack, 108

Bradley, Alice, 241

brains, 42–43, 47–50, 226

braising, 138

Brandeis, Louis, 13

bread, 109, 145, 181, 193–94

brown, 36–37

bread crumbs, 109, 145

bread graters, 109

breakfast, 143–44

Breakfast, Lunch and Tea
(Harland), 164–65

Brigham, Peter B., 34

broiling, 138

Brooks, Bob, 53

Brooks, Mary, 53–54

Brueggeman, Scott, 42

Buckeye Cookery,
47

Bullfinch, Charles, 120

Burbank, Luther, 95

Burns, Jabez, 213

butter, 85–86, 183

Cabot, Mrs. Powell, 83

cakes, 18, 196–97, 204–6

French cream, 18, 198–99

recipe for, 200–202

Mandarin, 18, 206, 216, 217–18, 235

almond butter cake for, 208–10

easy marzipan for, 207

Grand Marnier pastry cream for, 211–12

recipe for, 206–12

savoy, 205, 206

Victorian sponge, 198

calf’s feet, homemade gelatin from, 42, 184–86, 227

recipe for, 190–91

calf’s heads, 17, 41–43, 46–49

mock turtle soup, 17, 41–44, 46–49

recipe for, 50–52

stock, 225

caliper, sliding, 164

canned goods, 124, 164, 167, 179

Canton ginger, 154, 155–56

Canton sherbet, 18, 218, 233

recipe for, 156–57

Carème, Antonin, 206

Carter, James W., 213

champagne Mignonette, 36

cheese, 219–20

served after Fannie Farmer Dinner, 220–21

chestnut stuffing, 173–74

chicken, 139

Fannie Farmer’s roast, with crispy flour coating, 139–40

recipe for, 141

Child, Julia, 32–33, 72, 75–76

chocolate, 197

hot, 215

cleaning, 163, 165, 180, 237, 238

supplies for, 160–61

clothing, 60–61, 62

clubs, 69, 70–71

cockscombs, 84–85

cod, salt, 154

coffee, 186, 213–15, 218

Fannie Farmer’s boiled, 219

Coffey, Brenda, 228

coal, 160

coal cookstoves, 4–5, 83–84, 101–8, 129, 153

Cole, Samuel, 69

Common Ground
(Lukas), 12

Complete Confectioner, The,
154

Complete Cook, The
(Sanderson), 47

cookbooks, 29

cooking:

food science and, 179–81, 236–37, 243

at home, 127–32, 137–40, 142–47, 153, 163–64, 180, 187, 237, 238

Cook Not Mad, The,
49

cooks, Victorian, 59–62

Cook’s Illustrated,
96

cookstoves, 101–8

coal, 4–5, 83–84, 101–8, 129, 153

gas, 4, 83, 105–6, 111, 129, 153

height of, 238–39

wood, 103–6, 111, 129, 231

cookware, 164

sales of, 132

Victorian, 107–9

Coolidge, Calvin, 123

Coolidge, Mrs. John Gardner, II, 83

corn, 145

crackers, water, 85

Cuisine Artistique, La
(Dubois), 205–6

Cunningham, Marion, 242

currant, red, jelly, 92–94

recipe for, 94

custard, 187

baked toasted coconut and vanilla, 148–49

daubing, 142

Davis, Joseph, 105

Dearborn, Carrie, 26

Decker, Peter, 34

deer hunting, 86–88

Delamere, Edmund, 84

Delamere, Ellen, 84

Delmonico’s, 17, 30, 166

desserts, 144

Dickinson, Amy, 225, 229, 230, 234, 236

Dickinson, Bruno, 225, 229

dining out, 130

dining rooms, 181–82

dinner, midday, 130, 144, 239

Dinner Party of the Century,
see
Fannie Farmer Dinner

dinners, Victorian, 1–2, 15–17, 32, 110

table manners and, 202–4

Donkin, Brian, 179

Dresser, Keith, 133, 227, 231, 232, 233

Drowne, Deacon Shem, 120

Dubois, Urbain, 205–6

eggbeaters, 164–65

egg flip, 137

eggs, 139, 165

Ehlenfeldt, Cindy, 133, 228, 232

Ehlenfeldt, Mike, 133, 228

Eleana, Marie, 133

Eleana, Ryan, 133

electricity, 128

Epicurean, The
(Ranhofer), 4, 18, 29, 145, 206

Erickson, David, 106, 113

Escoffier, Auguste, 17, 46, 56, 72, 75

Europe, 151–52, 164, 166–67, 204, 218

Expert Maid-Servant, The,
62

Family Life in 19th-Century America,
162

Faneuil, Peter, 119–20

Faneuil Hall, 87, 88, 117, 119–21, 126, 127

Fannie Farmer Dinner, 225–40

cheeses served after, 220–21

food preparation methods for, 30–32

idea for, 2, 4–5

Fannie Farmer Dinner
(continued)

kitchen team for, 132–33

menu for, 17–18

planning and preparation for, 15, 17–19, 30–32, 215–18

recipes for,
see
recipes

rehearsal for, 133

service for, 32, 133, 217, 232

table settings for, 183–84

wine list for, 223

Fanny Farmer Candy Shops, 242

Farmer, Cora, 25, 26, 241

Farmer, Fannie Merritt, 2, 11, 12–13, 17, 18, 23–30, 241–43

birth and childhood of, 25

Boston Cooking School and, 2, 12–13, 23, 25–28, 53, 56

cooking courses offered by, 54–55

cooking school founded by, 26

death of, 241

family of, 13

home of, 5, 12, 13, 39, 40

level measurements and, 57, 59

physical appearance of, 27

polio of, 26, 39

Farmer, John Franklin, 25

Farmer, Lillian, 25

Farmer, Mary (Fannie’s mother), 25–26

Farmer, Mary (Fannie’s sister), 25, 26

farmers, 122, 126

fat, clarifying, 142

fireplace, cooking in and around, 102, 108

fish, 111–12, 138, 139

salmon, 17–18, 112–13, 133, 138, 216, 217, 233

grilled, with caper vinaigrette, 114–15

flatware, 182–83

food coloring, 18, 167, 186–87

natural, how to make, 190

food(s):

American attitudes toward, 166–67

canned, 124, 164, 167, 179

commercialized production of, 85–86, 164, 167

cost of, 129–30

imported, 152, 154, 164

preservation of, 129, 144, 163, 179, 185

science and, 179–81, 236–37, 243

shopping for, 117–27

Francatelli, Charles, 205

Fresnaye, Louis, 146

Friary, Donald, 19

fricassée, 139

fried foods, 57, 181

Gardner, Mrs. Jack, 81

gas cookstoves, 4, 83, 105–6, 111, 129, 153

Geary, Andrea, 133, 226, 227, 230, 232, 234

gelatin, 4, 57, 63–64, 65, 111, 123, 167, 184–86

homemade, from calf’s feet, 42, 184–86, 227

recipe for, 190–91

Jell-O, 24, 111, 184, 185, 187, 239

powdered, lemon jelly using, 191–92

see also
jellies

Gillette, Fanny Lemira, 63

ginger, 154, 155–56

Canton sherbet, 18, 218, 233

recipe for, 156–57

Glasse, Hannah, 44

Godey’s Lady’s Book Receipts and Household Hints, The,
198

Gomes, Peter, 225

Good Housekeeper, The,
49

Goodwin, William W., 105

goose, 168–70, 216, 217

roast, 18, 233–34

chestnut stuffing, 173–74

with chestnut stuffing and jus, 171–72

Fannie’s applesauce to accompany, 177–78

Grand Marnier pastry cream, 211–12

Green, Steve, 11

griddle cakes, 143

grocery stores, 122–25

Guide Culinaire, Le
(Escoffier), 75

Hamersley, Fiona, 225, 229

Hamersley, Gordon, 225, 229, 232

Hamersley’s Bistro, 133, 225

happiness, 237–38, 239

Harland, Marion, 133, 164–65

Harper’s Bazaar,
61

Harris, William T., 59

heart, 139

Hirsch, Jim, 226–27

Hodgson, Anthony, 120

home cooking, 127–32, 137–40, 142–47, 153, 163–64, 180, 187, 237, 238

homes, Victorian, 11–12

dining rooms in, 181–82

kitchens in, 159–61, 163, 165, 180, 181

Hoosier cabinets, 160

hot closet, 108

Houchin, Jeremy, 118

House Beautiful,
61

How to Mix Drinks
(Thomas), 19

iceboxes, 108–9, 127, 163

ice sculpture, 226, 228–29, 235

Industrial Revolution, 60, 162, 167, 180, 182

Irish moss, 185

isinglass, 185

Island Creek Oysters, 17

James Beard’s American Cookery,
142

Janjigian, Andrew, 133

jellies, 18, 92–93, 111, 184, 186, 187, 189, 215–16, 234–35, 239

lemon, 189

using powdered gelatin, 191–92

orange snow, 188

red currant jelly, 92–94

recipe for, 94

see also
gelatin

Jell-O, 24, 111, 184, 185, 187, 239

jelly molds, 184, 189

Jennie June’s Cookbook,
47

Jones, Brian, 225, 229, 235–36

Joy of Cooking
(Rombauer), 76

Kellogg, Ella Eaton, 179–80

Kelly, Kate, 225

Kimball, Adrienne, 3, 7, 9–11, 12, 13, 92, 108–9, 183–84, 225, 229

Kimball, Charlie, 11

King’s Hand-Book of Boston,
69

kitchens, 159–61, 163, 165, 180, 181

kitchen tools and appliances, 164–65

Klein, Melissa, 133, 228, 232

Kummer, Corby, 146

Ladies’ Home Journal,
24

larding, 142

leaveners, 193–94, 196

lemon jelly, 189

using powdered gelatin, 191–92

limes, pickled, 146–47

Lincoln, Mary, 2, 3, 24, 28, 57–59, 74–75, 104, 105, 139, 143, 165, 179, 180

linoleum, 159–60

Little Women
(Alcott), 147

lobster, 73–75, 76, 111

à l’Américaine, 17, 72, 75–77, 217, 230–31

recipe for, 78–80

Lobster at Home
(White), 76

Locke, Frank, 69

Lodge, Henry Cabot, 82

Looking Backward: From 2000 to 1887
(Bellamy), 180

Lowell, John, 82–83

macaroni, 144, 145–46

and cheese, 146

Manchester, William, 238

Manners, Culture, and Dress of the Best American Society
(Wells), 165

manufactured goods, 164–65

margarine, 85–86, 186

markets, 117–27

marzipan, easy, 207

Massachusetts Horticultural Society, 133

McCarthy, Charlie, 83

McDowell, Debbie, 133, 228, 232

McDowell, Jake, 133, 228

McMurrer, Erin, 17, 72–74, 132–33, 215–16, 226, 227, 231, 232

measurements, 31, 57–59

meat, 138–39, 143

roasts, 89, 102–3, 108

Mencken, H. L., 27

Mills, Marjorie, 27

Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery, 26

Miss Parloa’s New Cook Book: A Guide to Marketing and Cooking
(Parloa), 24, 99

mock turtle soup, 17, 41–44, 46–49

recipe for, 50–52

Modern Cook, The
(Francatelli), 205

molasses, 147, 154

Montagne, Renee, 225, 228, 229

Morison, Samuel Eliot, 126–27

Mrs. Lincoln’s Baking Powder Company, 24

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