French Kids Eat Everything (41 page)

118
The French equivalent of the AAP:
Alain Bocquet, Jean-Louis Bressor, André Briend, et al., “Alimentation du nourrisson et de l'enfant en bas âge,”
Archives de Pèdiatrie
10, no. 1 (2003) 76–81. (Feeding of infants and toddlers.) See also C. Turberg-Romain, B. Lelièvre, and M-F Le Huezey, “Conduite alimentaire des nourrissons et jeunes enfants âges de 1 à 36 mois en France: evolution des habitudes des mères,”
Archives of Pediatrics
14 (2007): 1250–1258.

121
I read these with a growing sense:
Claude Fischler and Matty Chiva, “Food Likes, Dislikes, and Some of Their Correlates in a Sample of French Children and Young Adults,” in
Measurement and Determinants of Food Habits and Food Preference
, edited by Joery M. Diehl and Claus Leitzmann. Report of an EC Worshop, Giessen, Germany, 1986, 137–156. C.R.E.A.,
L'adolescent et l'alimentation
(Paris: Centre de Recherche sur l'Enfant et l'Adolescent, CFES, 1990).

122
As I read in another book:
Rigal,
La naissance du goût
.

123
But I had also learned from my research:
Leann L. Birch, Linda McPhee, B. C. Shoba, et al., “What Kind of Exposure Reduces Children's Food Neophobia? Looking vs. Tasting,”
Appetite
9, no. 3 (1987): 171–178.

128
But what was fascinating was that kids:
Janette Greenhalgh, Alan J. Dowey, Pauline J. Horne, et al., “Positive and Negative Peer Modeling Effects on Young Children's Consumption of Novel Blue Foods,”
Appetite
52, no. 3 (2009): 646–653.

129 We
ate exactly what they ate:
Leann Lipps Birch, Jennifer Orlet Fisher, Helen Smiciklas-Wright, et al., “Eat as I Do Not as I Say: Parental Influences on Young Girls' Calcium Intakes,”
Journal of the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology
13 (1999): A593; Jennifer Orlet Fisher, Diane C. Mitchell, Helen Smiciklas-Wright, et al., “Parental Influences on Young Girls' Fruit and Vegetable, Micronutrient, and Fat Intakes,”
Journal of the American Dietetic Association
102, no. 1 (2002): 58–64.

134
Traditional French nursery rhyme:
The English translation is slightly adapted in order to mimic the rhyming structure of the original nursery rhyme.

136
And I was amazed to learn:
Lisa Jahns, Anna Maria Siega-Riz, and Barry M. Popkin, “The Increasing Prevalence of Snacking Among US Children from 1977 to 1996,”
Journal of Pediatrics
138, no. 4 (2001): 493–498; Carmen Piernas and Barry M. Pop-kin, “Trends in Snacking among U.S. Children,”
Health Affairs
29, no. 3 (2010): 398–404.

136
For most French parents and children:
INPES,
La santé vient en mangeant et en bougeant: le guide nutrition des enfants et ados pour tous les parents
(Paris: Institut National de Prevention et d'Éducation pour la Santé, 2004).

137
I found it hard to imagine:
Carmen Piernas and Barry M. Pop-kin, “Snacking Increased among U.S. Adults between 1977 and 2006,”
Journal of Nutrition
140, no. 2 (2010): 325–332.

137
And I doubted that Americans were eating:
France Bellisle, Anne Marie Dalix, L. Mennen, et al., “Contribution of Snacks and Meals in the Diet of French Adults: A Diet-Diary Study,”
Physiology and Behavior
79, no. 2 (2003): 183–189; France Bellisle, Marie Françoise Rolland-Cachera, and the Kellogg Scientific Advisory Committee, “Three Consecutive (1993, 1995, 1997) Surveys of Food Intake, Nutritional Attitudes and Knowledge, and Lifestyle in 1000 French Children, Aged 9–11 Years,”
Journal of Human Nutrition and Dietetics
13, no. 2 (2000): 101–111. See also the reports produced by the Nutrinet study: www.etude-nutrinet-sante.fr.

138 No
snacks are served at school:
AFSSA–Saisine no 2003-SA-0281:
Avis de l'Agence française de sécurité sanitaire des aliments (AfSSA), relatif à la collation matinale à l'école
(2004); Alain Bocquet, Jean-Louis Bresson, André Briend, et al., “La collation de 10 heures en milieu scolaire : un apport alimentaire inadapté et superflu,”
Archives de Pédiatrie
10 (2003): 945–947; H. Thibault, C. Carriere, C. Langevin, et al., “La collation à l'école maternelle: évolution des perceptions et pratiques des enseignants d'Aquitaine entre 2004 et 2008,”
Archives de Pédiatrie
17, no. 11 (November 2010): 1516–1521.

140
Our kids are drinking less milk:
Rhonda S. Sebastian, Linda E. Cleveland, and Joseph D. Goldman, “Effect of Snacking Frequency on Adolescents' Dietary Intakes and Meeting National Recommendations,”
Journal of Adolescent Health
42 (2008): 503–511; Y. Claire Wang, Sara N. Bleich, and Steven L. Gortmaker, “Increasing Caloric Contribution from Sugar-Sweetened Beverages and 100% Fruit Juices among U.S. Children and Adolescents, 1988–2004,”
Pediatrics
121, no. 6 (2008): el604–el614.

147
This is, of course, exactly the mix of foods:
Hector Araya and Jacqueline Hills, “Short-Term Satiety in Preschool Children: A Comparison Between High Protein Meal and a High Complex Carbohydrate Meal,”
International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition
51, no. 2 (2000): 119–124. See also Jean-Xavier Guinard and Patrice Brun, “Sensory-Specific Satiety: Comparison of Taste and Texture Effects,”
Appetite
31 (1998): 141–157; S. H. Holt, J. C. Miller, P. Petocz, et al., “A Satiety Index of Common Foods,”
European Journal of Clinical Nutrition
49, no. 9 (1995): 675–690; Susanna H. A. Holt, Jennie C. Brand-Miller, and Paul A. Stitt, “The Effects of Equal-Energy Portions of Different Breads on Blood Glucose Levels, Feelings of Fullness and Subsequent Food Intake,”
Journal of the American Dietetic Association
101, no. 7 (2001): 767–773; C. Marmonier, D. Chapelot, and J. Louis-Sylvestre, “Effects of Macronutrient Content and Energy Density of Snacks Consumed in a Satiety State on the Onset of the Next Meal,”
Appetite
34, no. 2 (2000): 161–168.

147
As a result of eating this way:
John M. de Castro, France Bellisle, Gerda I. J. Feunekes, et al., “Culture and Meal Patterns: A Comparison of the Food Intake of Free-Living American, Dutch, and French Subjects,”
Nutrition Research
17, no. 5 (1997): 807–829.

156
This eighteenth-century French song:
The melody was first known as “Ah! vous dirai-je, Maman,” and appeared somewhere between 1760 and 1770, in “Les amusements d'une heure et demy [demie]” by M. Bouin. See Robert A. Green,
The Hurdy-Gurdy in Eighteenth-Century France
(Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1995). Mozart later wrote twelve variations on this theme.

158
Table: Working Mothers:
Sources for statistics: Institut national de la statistique et des études économiques and US Bureau of Labor Statistics.
Women in the Labor Force: A Databook
(2010 Edition), BLS Report 1026, December 2010.

159
It wasn't the amount of time spent cooking:
OECD,
Society at a Glance 2011-OECD Social Indicators
(Paris: Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, 2011).

160
And this doesn't include shopping: L'enquête sur les comportements et consommations alimentaires en France
(CRÉDOC, CCAF, 2007).

161
The French are at the opposite extreme:
Rozin et al., “Attitudes to Food and the Role of Food.”

162
The serving sizes were wildly different:
Paul Rozin, Kimberly Kabnick, Erin Pete, et al., “The Ecology of Eating: Smaller Portion Sizes than in France Help Explain the French Paradox,”
Psychological Science
14, no. 2 (2003): 450–454.

163
Curious about how much fast food:
The precise figure for expenditure on food away from home is 47.5 percent of the food budget, on average (source: USDA Economic Research Service online “Briefing Room” data). See also Shanthy A. Bowman, Steven L. Gortmaker, Cara B. Ebbeling, et al., “Effects of Fast-Food Consumption on Energy Intake and Diet Quality among Children in a National Household Survey,”
Pediatrics
113, no. 1 (2004): 112–118; Lisa Mancino, Jessica E. Todd, Joanne Guthrie, et al.,
How Food Away from Home Affects Children's Diet Quality
(US Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service, 2010); S. A. French, M. Story, D. Neumark-Sztainer, et al., “Fast Food Restaurant Use Among Adolescents: Associations with Nutrient Intake, Food Choices and Behavioral and Psychosocial Variables,”
International Journal of Obesity
25, no. 12 (2001): 1823–1833.

164
In France, only 20 percent of the food budget:
INSEE (2011)
Dépenses alimentaires et part de la restauration dans le budget des ménages
. Paris: Institut national de la statistique et des études économiques; Jean-Luc Volatier,
Le repas traditionnel se porte encore bien
. (Paris: CRÉDOC, CAFF; 1999).

165
French youth
—
my husband among them:
Rick Fantasia, “Fast Food in France,”
Theory and Society
24, no. 2 (1995): 201–243.

165
Some of our friends worried:
The term was apparently originally coined by American sociologist George Ritzer in his book
The McDonaldization of Society
(Newbury Park, Calif.: Pine Forge Press, 1993), but is also used in France. See Claude Fischler, “The McDonaldization of Culture,” in
Food: A Culinary History from Antiquity to the Present
, edited by Jean Louis Flandrin, Massimo Montanari, Albert Sonnerfeld, et al. (New York: Columbia University Press, 2008), 530–547; A. Hubert, “Evolution of Food Consumption and Lifestyles in France in the Past 50 Years,”
Rivista di Antopologia
supplement 76 (1998): 229–235; Jacqueline Scali, Aurélia Richard, and Mariette Gerber, “Diet Profiles in a Population Sample from Mediterranean Southern France,”
Public Health Nutrition
4, no. 2 (2001): 173–182; Pierre Combris and Jean-Luc Volatier, “L'évolution des comportements alimentaires des Français et de leurs attitudes nutritionnelles,”
La lettre scientifique de l'institut français pour la nutrition
56 (1998): 9–10; J. P. Poulain, “The Contemporary Diet in France: ‘De-Structuration' or from Commensalism to Vagabond Feeding,”
Appetite
39, no. 1 (2002) 43–55.

165–66
Bruno Rebelle, head of Greenpeace France:
Florence Williams, “The Roquefort Files,”
Outside
, June 1, 2001.

171 “
Cooking can be an act”:
J. Luhrs,
The Simple Living Guide
(NY: Broadway Books), p. 244.

171
But now it brought to mind:
Rigal,
La naissance du goût
.

212
For example, kids who have authoritative parents:
Karen Weber Cullen, Tom Baranowski, Latroy Rittenberry, et al., “Social-Environmental Influences on Children's Diets: Results from Focus Groups with African-, Euro- and Mexican-American Children and Their Parents,”
Health Education Research
15, no. 5 (2000): 581–590; Sara Gable and Susan Lutz, “Household, Parent, and Child Contributions to Childhood Obesity,”
Family Relationships
49, no. 3 (2000): 293–300; Heather Patrick, Theresa A. Nicklas, Sheryl O. Hughes, et al., “The Benefits of Authoritative Feeding Style: Caregiver Feeding Styles and Children's Food Consumption Patterns,”
Appetite
44, no. 2 (2005): 243–249. Kyung E. Rhee, Julie C. Lumeng, Danielle P. Appugliese, et al., “Parenting Styles and Overweight Status in First Grade,”
Pediatrics
117, no. 6 (2006): 2047–2054; Kristen M. Hurley, Matthew B. Cross, and Sheryl O. Hughes, “A Systematic Review of Responsive Feeding and Child Obesity in High-Income Countries,”
Journal of Nutrition
141 (2011): 495–501.

212
In contrast, children whose parents:
J. L. Carper et al., “Young Girls' Emerging Dietary Restraint and Disinhibition”; Jennifer O. Fisher and Leann Lipps Birch, “Restricting Access to Foods and Children's Eating,”
Appetite
32, no. 3 (1999): 405–419; Hurley et al., “A Systematic Review of Responsive Feeding.”

216
This is especially true for lunch:
Mathé,
La gastronomie s'inscrit dans la continuité du modèle alimentaire français;
SHRM,
Pressure to Work: Employee Perspective
(Alexandria, Virginia: Society for Human Resources Management, 2009).

217
And some scientific research does show:
L. L. Birch and M. Deysher, “Conditioned and Unconditioned Caloric Compensation: Evidence for Self-Regulation of Food Intake in Young Children,”
Learning and Motivation
16, no. 3 (1985): 341–355; de Castro et al., “Culture and Meal Patterns.”

225
Basically, science doesn't provide:
P. K. Newby, “Are Dietary Intakes and Eating Behaviors Related to Childhood Obesity? A Comprehensive Review of the Evidence,”
Journal of Law, Medicine & Ethics
35, no. 1 (2007): 35–60.

227
This is basic psychology for the French:
Brian Wansink,
Mindless Eating: Why We Eat More than We Think
(New York: Bantam, 2006)

228
The result, as nutritionists warn:
Piernas and Popkin, “Trends in Snacking.”