How to Cook Indian (29 page)

Masala Dosas

Lentil and rice pancakes stuffed with spicy potatoes

This has got to be one of the most popular snacks in India, and I think that learning to make this dish is the perfect introduction to South Indian cuisine. Don’t be intimidated, because the
dosas
take some practice to get right: The key lies in the proper seasoning of the griddle. Often the first couple of
dosas
don’t work out, so keep trying—the rest will likely go more smoothly. Serve with coconut cilantro chutney (page 520) and
sambhar
(page 32).

Makes 8.

For the
dosa
batter:

1 cup plus 5 tablespoons (275 grams) parboiled rice

2 tablespoons raw short-grain rice

½ cup (100 grams)
dhuli urad dal
(split skinless black gram)

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)

1¼ teaspoons table salt

4 teaspoons vegetable oil

For the potato
bhaji:

¼ cup (50 ml) vegetable oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon asafetida

2 teaspoons
chana dal
(split Bengal gram)

4 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

15 fresh curry leaves

2 large red onions, chopped

6 large potatoes, boiled, peeled, and cubed

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons table salt

¼ cup (15 grams) chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Make the
dosa
batter: Put the parboiled and raw rices in a bowl, wash in plenty of water 2 or 3 times, and drain. Add 3 cups (600 ml) water and soak for at least 4 hours. Wash the
dal
and fenugreek seeds, and soak in 1½ cups (300 ml) water for 4 hours.

2. Drain the rices and
dal
separately. Put the rices in a food processor with 1½ cups (300 ml) water and process until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl. Put the
dal
and fenugreek in the food processor with ¼ cup (50 ml) water and grind to a smooth paste. Add to the rice paste.

3. Add the salt and stir the batter thoroughly with your hand in a whipping motion to aerate the mixture. Cover the bowl tightly and set aside to ferment for 6 hours or up to overnight.

4. Make the potato
bhaji:
Place a nonstick wok over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the mustard seeds. When the seeds begin to sputter, add the asafetida and
dal,
and sauté until lightly browned. Add the chiles, curry leaves, and onions, and sauté until the onions are lightly browned. Add the potatoes, turmeric, and salt. Stir well. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons water and cook until the potatoes are heated through. Add the cilantro and lemon juice, and stir well.

5. Place a flat nonstick griddle over medium heat and grease with a little oil. Pour in a ladleful of batter and spread the
dosa
batter as thinly as possible.

6. Pour ½ teaspoon oil around the
dosa
and cook until crisp on the edges and golden brown. Repeat with the remaining batter and oil.

7. Place about 4 tablespoons of the potato
bhaji
in the center of the
dosa,
fold the two ends over the
bhaji,
and serve immediately.

Medu Wadas

Savory doughnuts

We rarely deep-fry at our home, but the desire for these crisp yet spongy lentil fritters makes us get the wok out! In Bangalore restaurants,
medu wadas
are served for breakfast alongside soft
idlis
(page 120), all dunked in fragrant
sambhar
(page 32) and accompanied with coconut cilantro chutney (page 520). To get the spongiest
wadas
possible, it is important to make the paste without adding water and to whisk it well in order to aerate it before frying.

Serves 4.

½ cup (100 grams)
dhuli urad dal
(split skinless black gram)

1½ teaspoons table salt

¼ teaspoon asafetida

8 to 10 fresh curry leaves, chopped

3 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

1. Put the
dal
in a bowl, wash in plenty of water 2 or 3 times, and drain. Add 2 cups (400 ml) water and soak for 3 to 4 hours. Drain well.

2. Put the
dal
in a food processor. Add the salt, asafetida, curry leaves, green chiles, and ¼ cup (50 ml) water, and process to a thick, smooth paste.

3. Transfer the paste to a bowl. Add the cilantro and stir well.

4. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, lower the heat to medium.

5. Dampen your palms and take a little of the paste in one palm. Shape into a ball and make a hole in the center with your thumb (like a doughnut). Repeat with the remaining paste.

6. Gently lower these
wadas,
a few at a time, into the hot oil and cook, turning frequently with a slotted spoon, until crisp and golden brown. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

7. Serve hot.

The
wadas
should not be fried over high heat or they will brown on the outside but remain uncooked inside. They should be crisp on the outside and cooked and fluffy inside.

Mirchi Bhajiya

Batter-fried stuffed green chiles

Here is the key to this recipe: Remove the seeds and white pith inside the chiles, for that innocuous little white fleshy part is even hotter than the seeds. This simple step will tame the chile and make it more palate-friendly.

Makes 8.

¾ cup (75 grams)
besan
(chickpea/gram flour)

¾ teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon asafetida

¾ teaspoon red chile powder

1½ teaspoons table salt

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

4 or 5 cloves garlic, crushed

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 large potatoes, boiled, peeled, and mashed

8 large green chiles, slit and seeded

1. Put the
besan,
baking powder, asafetida, chile powder, ¾ teaspoon of the salt, and 1 cup (200 ml) water in a large bowl and whisk well to make a smooth batter. Set the batter aside for about 10 minutes.

2. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the garlic and sauté over medium heat until fragrant. Add the turmeric and mashed potatoes and stir well. Add the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt and stir. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

3. Divide the mixture into 8 portions and stuff each portion into a slit chile.

4. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add the remaining oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, lower the heat to medium. Dip each chile in the batter and gently slide it into the hot oil. Cook 4 chiles at a time, turning with a slotted spoon a few times, for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden and crisp. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

5. Serve immediately.

Mysore Masala Dosas

Crisp and spicy rice pancakes, Mysore style

In this recipe, a thin pancake of lightly fermented rice batter is stuffed with a garlicky red chutney and potato
bhaji
(spiced mashed potatoes). While there is no dearth of
dosa
variations in the traditional regional cuisines of India, modern twists on the classic
dosa
-chutney-vegetable combination are showing up in urban eateries, where you’ll find concoctions like American chop suey
dosa
and Chinese chow mein
dosa.

Makes 8.

For the
dosa
batter: