How to Cook Indian (50 page)

1. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the mustard oil. When the oil starts smoking, remove from the heat and cool slightly.

2. Crush the coriander seeds in a mortar with a pestle. Cut the dried chiles into small pieces.

3. Return the pan with the oil to medium heat. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the dried chiles and onions, and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until the onions are golden brown.

4. Add the garlic and continue to sauté for 1 minute. Add the green chiles, crushed coriander seeds, ground coriander, and cumin powder, and stir. Add the potatoes and stir. Add the
amchur
and salt and stir well.

5. Transfer to a serving dish and serve hot.

Aloo Matar

Potatoes and green peas in an onion-tomato gravy

Typically, Indians like at least two dishes with each meal, one wet curry like lentils and one dried
sabzi
(stir-fried vegetables). This dish comes in really handy when you do not wish to prepare two things: Make
aloo matar,
and things are simple. Serve with
parathas
(page 18).

Serves 4.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 medium red onions, chopped

1½ teaspoons fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1½ teaspoons fresh garlic paste (page 12)

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon red chile powder

4 small potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) cubes

1 cup (235 grams) fresh tomato purée

1¼ cups (190 grams) green peas

1 teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1 teaspoon table salt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place a medium nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the bay leaf and cumin. When the seeds begin to change color, add the onions and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until golden. Add the ginger paste and garlic paste, and sauté for 30 seconds.

2. Add the turmeric, coriander, and chile powder, and sauté for 30 seconds. Stir in the potatoes and 3 cups (600 ml) water. Cover and cook for 5 minutes or until the potatoes are half cooked.

3. Stir in the tomato purée, cover, and cook for 8 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

4. Add the peas,
garam masala,
and salt, and stir. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes.

5. Garnish with the cilantro and serve hot.

Aloo Posto

Potatoes with poppy seeds

Posto
is the Bengali word for “poppy seeds,” and while these seeds are very popular in Bengali cooking, this wasn’t always the case. In fact, there is some evidence that poppy seeds were originally grown in this East Indian state only for making opium.

Serves 4.

¼ cup (50 grams) white poppy seeds

2 tablespoons refined mustard oil (see Note page 87)

½ teaspoon
kalonji
(nigella; see Note)

2 small green chiles, stemmed and slit

5 small potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

2 teaspoons table salt

½ teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon ghee (page 37), melted (optional)

1. Soak the poppy seeds in 1 cup (200 ml) warm water for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain off excess water and put the poppy seeds in a spice grinder. Grind to a smooth paste. Set aside.

2. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over high heat, add the mustard oil, and heat almost to the smoking point. Remove from the heat and let cool completely.

3. Place the pan with the mustard oil over medium heat again. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the
kalonji
and chiles, and sauté for 10 to 12 seconds. Add the potatoes and salt and stir again. Sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

4. Add the poppy seed paste, stir, and add ½ cup (100 ml) water. Lower the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 to 12 minutes or until the potatoes are almost done. Remove from the heat, add the sugar, and stir.

5. Return the pan to low heat and cook for 1 minute or until the potatoes are soft. Stir in the ghee (if using) and serve immediately.

Kalonji
(nigella) is available in Indian grocery stores and is sometimes called onion seeds.

Ambat Batata

Sour-and-spicy potatoes

Potatoes are an essential ingredient in the Indian kitchen, and I love learning new ways of serving them.
Ambat batata
is a sour potato curry from Malwan, which lies along the Konkan coast of Maharashtra.
Ambat
in Marathi means “sour,” and here the flavor comes from yogurt and
kokum.
I love this dish with hot
rotis
(page 18).

Serves 4.

5 small potatoes, boiled and peeled

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

6 or 7 fresh curry leaves

3 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

3 medium red onions, chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ cup (125 grams) plain yogurt

4 or 5 fresh
kokum
petals, or 2 or 3 dried (see Note page 44)

¼ cup (15 grams) chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup (30 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

1 teaspoon table salt

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Halve each potato and cut each half into 4 equal pieces.

2. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the cumin, curry leaves, and chiles, and sauté for 1 minute.

3. Add the onions and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until golden brown. Add the turmeric and potatoes, and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the yogurt,
kokum,
half of the cilantro, half of the coconut, the salt, and lemon juice. Lower the heat and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes.

4. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with the remaining cilantro and remaining coconut. Serve hot.

Bataka Nu Rassawala Shaak

Sweet-and-sour potatoes

I call this a quick-fix dish. In Gujarati homes this dish would be made to stretch a meal if there were more guests than anticipated—and it can be cooked at the last minute while the guests are being served the other food. Some people cook the potatoes in the sauce, but I think it’s easier to precook them. Serve with any Indian bread.

Serves 4.

5 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon asafetida

10 fresh curry leaves

4 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

1 teaspoon red chile powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

1¼ teaspoons table salt

3 tablespoons grated cane jaggery

5 tablespoons tamarind pulp

5 small potatoes, boiled and diced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place a nonstick wok over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the mustard seeds. When they begin to sputter, add the asafetida, curry leaves, and chiles, and sauté for 15 seconds. Add the chile powder, turmeric, coriander, and cumin, and stir. Sprinkle with 3 tablespoons water to prevent scorching.

2. Add the salt, jaggery, and tamarind pulp along with 2 cups (400 ml) water, and bring to a boil.

3. Add the potatoes and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Garnish with the cilantro and serve hot.

Batata Song

Onions and potatoes

My colleague Neena Murdeshwar makes this dish extremely well, and if she cooks it at home, she’s expected to bring a handsome portion of it for all of us in the office. Serve this dish with
puris
(page 21) or
chapatis
(page 438).

Serves 4.

8 to 10 dried red chiles, preferably
bedgi
(see Notes), stemmed, seeds removed

2 teaspoons tamarind paste

3 tablespoons coconut oil (see Notes)

2 large red onions, chopped

4 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled, and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) cubes

1 teaspoon table salt

1. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Let it heat for 2 minutes, then lower the heat to low and add the chiles; dry-roast for 30 seconds. Transfer to a mini food processor and add the tamarind along with ½ cup (100 ml) water and process to a fine paste.

2. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden brown.

3. Add the ground paste and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the potatoes and stir well. Add 1½ cups (300 ml) water and the salt, and stir. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to low and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes or until the sauce is thick. Serve hot.