In the Hands of a Chef (14 page)

The traditional matches for broccoli rabe include raisins, pine nuts, garlic, and hot red pepper flakes. In this recipe, I’ve paired it with other sharp greens that can stand up to hot red pepper flakes. The greens are delicious served cold as well as hot, so they make a great picnic dish.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

Kosher salt

1½ pounds broccoli rabe, washed and trimmed of tough or split stems

⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil

8 garlic cloves, sliced paper-thin

½ pound chicory, washed and chopped crosswise into 2-inch sections

½ pound arugula, washed

½ to ¾ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

DO AHEAD:
The broccoli rabe can be blanched ahead of time. Just be sure to plunge it into cold water to stop the cooking, then drain and refrigerate until ready to use.

1.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the broccoli rabe for 3 minutes, then plunge it immediately into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside.

2.
Combine the olive oil and garlic in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic is just golden around the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not let the garlic burn. Remove the garlic from the pan and set it aside.

3.
Increase the heat to high, add the broccoli rabe and chicory, and cook until the chicory has wilted. Add the arugula, season with salt, and add red pepper flakes to taste. Cook until the arugula wilts, stirring frequently. It will only take a minute or two, so don’t take your eye off the pan, or the arugula will overcook. Return the garlic to the pan, stir, and serve immediately.

T
his versatile phyllo pastry roll
is stuffed with an aromatic combination of leeks, artichokes, fennel, potatoes, and goat cheese. With phyllo, an amateur can look like a professional, and the final dish is adaptable to however you want to serve it. The roll of strudel can be cut into portions appropriate for side dishes for four or an entrée for two.

You can prepare as much or as little of this dish ahead as you wish, short of the final baking. You can cook the vegetables a day ahead and then assemble the strudel before baking. The strudel can even be completely assembled and refrigerated overnight until ready to bake.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS OR 2 ENTRÉE SERVINGS

½ pound Red Bliss potatoes, scrubbed

Kosher salt

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

2 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, sliced ¼ inch thick crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit

2 small fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise in half, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise

Freshly ground black pepper

½ pound trimmed baby artichokes (about 1¼ pounds, untrimmed; see page 85), cut into quarters (if baby artichokes are unavailable, substitute a 9-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed)

6 small or 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

½ teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

½ teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

½ cup dry white wine

½ cup water

1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

About 2 ounces (½ cup) freshly grated Parmesan

About 5 ounces (1 cup) crumbled feta cheese

8 sheets phyllo dough

½ stick unsalted butter, melted

1.
Chop the potatoes into ¼-inch dice. Put into a small pot, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, and season with salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool.

2.
While the potatoes are cooking, heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes until they begin to get tender. Add the artichokes, garlic, fennel seeds, coriander, thyme, and rosemary and cook until the leeks and fennel are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. (If using frozen artichoke hearts, wait to add them until the next step.)

3.
Add the wine and water. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and toss well. Let cool.

4.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.

5.
Add the parsley, lemon juice, Parmesan, and feta cheese to the vegetables and toss well. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary.

6.
Lay a sheet of phyllo dough out on the counter with a long edge toward you. Brush with a thin coat of melted butter. Carefully position a second sheet of phyllo atop the first and brush it with a teaspoon of melted butter. Continue until you have a stack of 4 phyllo sheets. Arrange half of the vegetables in a narrow mound running along the bottom edge of the phyllo stack. Roll up tightly. Brush the log with 1 teaspoon butter. Repeat to make a second log.

7.
Trim the ends of the logs, then cut each log into 4 pieces. Set on a buttered baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 45 minutes.

8.
Arrange on a platter, or place 2 pieces on each of four warm plates.

NOTE:
Frozen artichoke hearts can be substituted for fresh baby artichokes if the latter are unavailable. Do not use marinated artichokes (the kind that come in a jar)—their taste is too sharp. Add the artichokes in Step 3, after most of the water has evaporated. Since frozen artichoke hearts are already cooked, they only need to be in the pan long enough to warm. Allow the rest of the liquid to evaporate and continue with the recipe.

E
scarole intimidates people. People who
think nothing of sautéing spinach or Swiss chard shy away from it. Its coarse fibrous leaves seem just too strange to mess with, which is unfortunate, because braising melts the plant’s fibers into a silky, spinach-like consistency. I particularly like to pair braised escarole with bold-flavored meat dishes, like Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (page 316) or Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs (page 282).

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

1 large head escarole

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 medium white onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 cup Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth

¼ cup dry white wine

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan

¼ cup fresh bread crumbs

DO AHEAD:
The escarole can be braised several days ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to serve it, which can be quite convenient if you’re serving it with something else that requires your attention. If braising ahead, omit the crust of cheese and bread crumbs. To reheat, first bring it to room temperature, then put it in a 375°F oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, top with the crust ingredients, and return to the oven until the crust browns, about 15 minutes.

1.
Preheat oven to 325°F.

2.
Cut the escarole lengthwise into quarters, wash thoroughly (see box), and pat completely dry.

3.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof sauté pan or flameproof gratin dish over medium heat. (It’s important to use a shallow pan with low sides so excess moisture can evaporate as the dish cooks.) Sear the escarole until browned and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate.

4.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, onions, and garlic to the pan, and cook until the onion is tender, about 10 minutes.

5.
Return the escarole to the pan and add the herbs, lemon zest, chicken stock, and wine. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to a third of its original volume. Cover the escarole with a piece of foil, transfer to the oven and braise for 30 minutes, or until it is tender and the liquid has been absorbed.

6.
Take the pan out of the oven and increase the oven temperature to 400°F. Remove the foil and sprinkle the cheese and crumbs over the top of the escarole. Return the pan to the oven and bake until a golden brown crust forms, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

I
began experimenting with toasted spice
seeds about fifteen years ago, after encountering them in Middle Eastern dishes. At first glance this dish might be mistaken for ratatouille, but the toasted mustard, coriander, and cumin seeds move it into a more exotic culinary zone. Because the dish is good hot or cold, it, works well on picnics or as a complement to grilled meats (no running between outdoor grill and kitchen).

On a technical note, eggplant is a sponge for oil. If you broil it, as indicated below, you can give it a great color without having to use as much oil as you would to get the same effect by sautéing. Secondly, the skin of Japanese eggplant is much more delicate than that of its Italian or American counterpart. You don’t need to peel it before cooking.

I like including leftovers on a plate of Middle Eastern dishes served at room temperature. With some high-quality Greek or Armenian whole-milk yogurt, a few olives, hummus, and pita, it’s all I need for lunch.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS OR ENOUGH SAUCE FOR 1 POUND PASTA

½ teaspoon mustard seeds

½ teaspoon coriander seeds

¼ teaspoon cumin seeds

4 Japanese eggplants (about 1 pound), sliced on a diagonal about 1 inch thick

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 medium onion, chopped into ¼-inch dice

2 red peppers, peeled with a vegetable peeler, stemmed, seeded, and chopped into 1-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

½ cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half

½ cup water

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1.
Toast the mustard, coriander, and cumin seeds in a small dry pan over low heat until they start to pop, 3 to 5 minutes; do not allow to burn. Remove from the heat. When the seeds are cool, grind them in a spice mill or crush them into a powder with a mortar and pestle.

2.
Preheat the broiler. Toss the eggplant slices in a large bowl with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the eggplant slices in a single layer on a sheet pan and broil until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the pieces and broil for 5 minutes on the other side, or until golden brown. Set aside.

3.
Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and red peppers and cook until tender, about 7 minutes. Season with salt
and pepper. Add the garlic and ginger and continue cooking until they release their perfume, a couple of minutes. Add the eggplant, tomatoes, and water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid, lower the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper if necessary.

4.
Stir in the mint, parsley, honey, and red wine vinegar. Remove from the heat. Serve hot or at room temperature.

A
Spanish
tapa,
one of those
elegant little dishes designed to accompany aperitifs, gave me the idea for this dish, which tastes as bright as its wonderful hue. You can find saffron and peppers in one combination or another all along the Mediterranean shoreline of Spain and France, but the sherry vinegar is a distinctly Spanish touch. This is a great dish to prepare at the end of the summer, when red peppers are cheap and you’ve fired up the charcoal grill. The smoky flavor from grilling the peppers makes the dish all that much richer.