Read In the Hands of a Chef Online
Authors: Jody Adams
A
t a conference of women
chefs in Mexico City, I tasted a perfect shrimp dish prepared by Monique Andrée Barbeau, the chef of Fullers in Seattle. The shrimp were saturated with flavor, but still mysteriously tender. The trick, she explained, was to first simmer aromatic ingredients in oil, then to cook the shrimp over low heat, all the while keeping them completely submerged in the flavored oil. In this recipe, fennel, hot red pepper flakes, oregano, garlic, and lemon zest create the first level of flavor, followed by a long simmer of artichoke quarters. Only then do the shrimp enter the pan for their own slow cooking.
MAKES 4 ENTRÉE SERVINGS
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped into ½-inch dice
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Kosher salt
3 large artichokes, trimmed (see page 85), cut into quarters, chokes removed, and rubbed with a lemon half
1 pound medium shrimp (20 to 25), peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ pound penne
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus 4 sprigs for garnish
3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
6 ounces feta, crumbled into large pieces
1.
Combine the olive oil, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, oregano, red pepper flakes, garlic, onion, and lemon zest in a large sauté pan. Season generously with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, so the seasonings flavor the oil.
2.
Add the artichokes, lower the heat if necessary (the oil should be barely bubbling), and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the artichokes to a bowl.
3.
Add the shrimp to the oil and cook at the same low simmer, turning once, until done, about 10 minutes.
4.
Remove the shrimp from the oil and let cool on a plate. Pour off 1 cup of the oil from the pan, strain, and refrigerate for another use. (The oil is delicious and can be used in vinaigrettes or for sautéing another dish.) Leave the pan over low heat.
5.
As soon as they’re cool enough to handle, remove the leaves from the artichokes and save for another use. Chop the artichoke hearts and
stems into 1-inch pieces and return to the bowl. Add the shrimp and toss with the lemon juice.
6.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the penne and stir constantly until the water returns to a boil. Cook until the pasta is tender but still offers some resistance when you bite into it, about 10 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out ¼ cup of the pasta water; reserve. Drain the pasta in a colander and add to the sauté pan with the oil.
7.
Add the artichokes, shrimp, herbs, and feta and toss until heated through. Taste for seasoning. Depending on the saltiness of the feta, it may not be necessary to add additional salt. If the pasta seems too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water as needed.
8.
Divide among four warm bowls. Garnish each portion with a sprig of mint and serve.
T
his is a spectacular brunch
or weekend lunch dish whose first impression is innocently innocuous—a pair of large square ravioli dusted with cheese on each diner’s plate. The first cut through the pasta gives the game away—molten egg yolk flows voluptuously over a stuffing of wild mushrooms, tomato, and spinach. It is at once sensual, surprising, and delicious. The raviolis were inspired by
brik,
a North African fried pastry containing an egg.
MAKES 8 LARGE RAVIOLI OR 4 SERVINGS
FILLING
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ pound mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 shallots, minced
½ pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried
¼ pound cream cheese, at room temperature 2 plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into ½-inch dice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
½ recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43)
9 extra-large eggs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 thin slices pancetta (3 to 4 ounces)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 sprig thyme
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
DO AHEAD:
The ravioli can be made up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to cook them.
1.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the butter stops foaming, add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their juices, and the juices are almost gone. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a bowl.
2.
Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the garlic and shallots. Cook until they soften, 2 to 3 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary so they don’t burn. Increase the heat to high. Add the spinach and stir until it wilts, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the spinach from the pan, draining any excess water if necessary, and allow to cool.
3.
Mix the cream cheese with the mushrooms, then add the tomatoes, parsley, thyme, and spinach. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use.
4.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
5.
Roll out the pasta according to the directions on page 143, until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out sixteen 4-inch squares. Discard the pasta scraps.
6.
Beat 1 of the eggs with 1 tablespoon water to form an egg wash. Brush the edges of 1 pasta square with the egg wash. Put 3 to 4 tablespoons of the mushroom mixture in the center of the pasta and make a well in the mixture. Crack an egg into a teacup, taking care not to break the yolk. Pour the yolk and about half the white into the well in the filling. (Discard the remaining egg white or reserve for another purpose.) Season with salt and pepper. Cover with a second sheet of pasta and gently push out as much air as possible. Seal the edges with your fingertips or the tines of a fork. Set the ravioli aside on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat the process to make 7 more ravioli.
7.
Lay the pancetta slices on a sheet pan and bake until crispy, about 6 minutes. Keep warm.
8.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. Slip the ravioli into the water. Cook, stirring gently several times, until done. To test for doneness, cut a small bit of pasta off the edge of a ravioli and taste to see that the pasta is cooked through; 5 minutes is usually long enough to cook the ravioli and the eggs while leaving the yolks still runny. Cook longer for a firmer yolk.
9.
While the ravioli are cooking, melt the 4 tablespoons of butter with the sprig of thyme over medium heat in a small sauté pan. Season with salt and pepper and lower the heat to keep warm.
10.
Scoop the ravioli out of the pot with a slotted spoon and place 2 ravioli on each plate. Allowing some of the pasta water to cling to the ravioli will help the cheese to stick as well as keep the pasta moist. Drizzle with the thyme butter (discard the sprig of thyme). Arrange the pancetta slices on top of the ravioli. Sprinkle with the cheese and parsley and serve.
A
Venetian recipe for beets with
nuts gave me the idea for these ravioli “party favors. “ I assumed that they would taste good, but I was unprepared for how beautiful they are. Some of the juice from the beet filling seeps through the translucent pasta dough and creates a lovely ruby splash against the white poppy seed cream. This dish is truly a jewel. You can easily double the recipe and serve it as a sophisticated main course for a late night supper or special lunch.
MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS
½ recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43)
FILLING AND SAUCE
½ pound beets
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons ricotta
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
2½ to 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon poppy seeds
4 teaspoons chopped toasted walnuts
4 beautiful basil leaves for garnish
DO AHEAD:
Roast the beets.
1.
Following the directions on page 143, roll out half the dough to ravioli thinness (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Cut into eight 3×4-inch rectangles. Transfer the rectangles to a kitchen towel dusted with flour. Reserve the remaining dough for another use (or roll it into sheets and hand-cut it into irregular shapes. Refrigerate to use in soup or broth the next day.) These ravioli squares don’t have to remain moist like classic ravioli because they will be cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you’re preparing the rest of the recipe, it’s okay.
2.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
3.
Toss the beets with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in a small roasting pan and roast for an hour or so, or until tender all the way through. Allow to cool, then peel (see page 103). Leave the oven on.
4.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Let cool.
5.
Purée the beets in a food processor. Add the ricotta and process to mix well. Transfer to a bowl and add half the shallots, all the chopped basil, and 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper.
6.
Put the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Season with salt, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse, and drain again.
7.
Heat the cream and garlic in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming the foam and impurities, until the cream has reduced by one-quarter. Transfer the reduced cream and garlic to a blender and purée. Return the garlic cream to the pan. Add the balsamic vinegar, the remaining shallots, and the poppy seeds. Simmer for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat before serving.
8.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Rub a sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and cook through, about 1 minute. Shock in the ice water, then drain. Lay the pasta sheets on the sheet pan.
9.
Put a spoonful of beet filling in the center of each pasta sheet. Roll up starting from a long side and twist the ends to form a bundle. Arrange the bundles side by side on the baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.
10.
Bake the bundles for 8 minutes, or until heated through.
11.
Stir 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan into the sauce. Pour a pool of sauce into the center of each of four warm plates. Arrange 2 bundles on each plate. Sprinkle with the walnuts and a little more Parmesan. Garnish each plate with a basil leaf and serve.
E
milia-Romagna is famed for its
stuffed pasta dishes, and it was there I saw my first “little nests. “ The
nidimi
were chunky pasta bundles, thick as cucumbers, standing upright in a red pool of smooth tomato sauce, with swirls of green herbed ricotta visible in the upright end, spiraling hypnotically between layers of pasta. The dish immediately struck me as a more elegant, sophisticated take on manicotti, those humble pasta tubes stuffed with a meat or cheese filling.
Since then I’ve applied all kinds of fillings to nidimi; as long as the filling is flat and flexible (like slices of cured meat or grilled eggplant) or easily spread, it will usually work. The trick is to roll the nidimi tightly and reheat them carefully so they don’t dry out. One of my favorites is made with grilled eggplant, peppers, spinach, and feta and served with a spicy tomato sauce. This particular version takes the classic tagliatelle accompaniments of prosciutto, spinach, and Fontina and reconfigures them as nidimi with a Parmesan cream sauce.