Is There a Nutmeg in the House? (53 page)

Read Is There a Nutmeg in the House? Online

Authors: Elizabeth David,Jill Norman

Tags: #Cooking, #Courses & Dishes, #General

to boil salmon and other fish
154
to fry venison collops
155
to ice cream
269
to make burnt cream
250
to make ice cream
270
,
271
to make little morsels as they use in Naples
241
to make snow cream
255
and
see
85
tomato and anchovy in Ligurian pizza in bohémienne
57
in ‘piments pour viandes froides’
59
in ‘salsa alla marinera’
140
sauce, for stuffed apples
179
of fresh tomatoes
82
three-minute
83
sweet-sour pickle, with orange
83
tian or gratin with courgettes and eggs
42
tian with courgettes
55
with aubergine, garlic and olive oil
75
tomato consommé
29
tomatoes with rice and walnut stuffing
174
tomato fondue
173
torte di ceci
230
tortilla – Spanish omelette
129
and
see
42
to take away hoarseness
115
tourte à la citrouille
260
tourtes pisaines
104
Tovey, John,
A Feast of Vegetables
51–2
A TRUE GENTLEWOMAN

S DELIGHT
108
tunny, salted and smoked
299–300
turkey cold, with sherry sauce
202
gratin, in cream sauce
199
turkey or chicken salad
200
turnip, roast, with sugar-candy
115
Tuscan bean soup
35
TWO COOKS
163
Ulster Women’s Institute,
Ulster Fare
262
Universal Symposium (Soyer’s)
213–14
UNTRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS FOOD
171
VARIATIONS OF PIZZA
232
veal knuckle (oaasi buchi)
181
vegetable and shrimp risotto
149
vegetables, mixed, in salad
41
Venetian food names
46
Venice
45–6
,
47
,
102
venison collops, fried
155
verjuice
100
Verral, William,
A Complete System of Cookery
127
,
132–5
Vigoral (Armour & Co.)
21
Vimbos (Scottish Fluid Beef Co.)
21
vin cuit
103
vivandi d’aventani
63
vivandi di salari
65
Volant, F. & J. R. Warren,
Memoirs of Alexis Soyer
211
,
213
walnuts
103
and rice, stuffing for tomatoes
174
candied
60
relish, with almonds
100
watercress soup
31
water ice mulberry
291
pomegranate
288
raspberry and redcurrant
289
strawberry
288
Waters, Alice
299
WHAT TO DO WITH THE BIRD
?
198
Willan, Anne,
Great Cooks and Their Recipes
269
Woodcock, Patrick
152
yeast
221–2
YOGURT
37
and
see
293
yogurt soup
36
zambaglione
215
zazzeri
215
zucchi tenere, o zuccoli da friggere
62
Zyw, Leslie
75
,
181

*
See also
the different version –
Tian
or gratin of courgettes, tomatoes and eggs on
page 42
.

*
The Escoffier recipe was published in
Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen
.

*
There is a recipe for Snow Cream on
page 256
.

*
I’ve now found out what goes wrong. Most people use too much dried yeast, and don’t wait for it to re-activate properly. I’ve made plenty of excellent bread leavened with dried yeast. Just don’t use too much, don’t mix too much sugar with it – and give it time.

*
This recipe was originally written for my sister Diana Grey, whose tendency to mislay her engagement ring while cooking has caused many a household drama. In fact it is always wise, when working with dough which may be sticky, to remove any ring other than a plain band.

*
The term used by bakers to denote a shapely, professional loaf.

1
In Massialot’s own text a
chopine
is 16 oz or half the Paris pint, and one English pint (600 ml), not a quart.

Table of Contents

About the Author

Title Page

Copyright Page

Contents

Introduction

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Is there a Nutmeg in the House?

Kitchens and their Cooks
Elizabeth David’s ‘Dream’ Kitchen
How Publishers like to have their Cake and Eat it
Scoff Gaffe
The Oxo Story
Taking Stock
The Making of Broths and Stocks
Yogurt
Summer Greenery
Leaf Salads
Crudités
Garlic Presses are Utterly Useless
Tians
Le Rouge et le Noir
Erbaggi Mantovani: Vegetables of Mantua
Home Cooking
The Great English Aphrodisiac
The Besprinkling of a Rosemary Branch
Herbs, Fresh and Dried
Green Pepper Berries
Is there a Nutmeg in the House
Relishes of the Renaissance
Italian Fruit Mustards
A True Gentlewoman’s Delight
Quiche Lorraine
Hand-made Mayonnaise
Poached Eggs
One William Verral
Edible Maccheroni
Do not Despair over Rice
How Versatile is Risotto?
Excerpt from a letter to George Elliot,
Mistress Margaret Dods
Kedgeree
Two Cooks
Letter to Jack Andrews and John Flint
Christmas in France
Untraditional Christmas Food
John Nott
What to do with the Bird?
Alexis Soyer
Perfumed Toothpicks and Table-hopping Birds
The Baking of an English Loaf
Variations of Pizza
Banketting Stuffe
Caramel Desserts
Crème brûlée
In Pescod Time… I went to gather Strawberries
Hunt the Ice Cream
Making Ice Cream
Pomegranates Pink

The Madeira Era

Letter to Gerald Asher

Epilogue

Bibliography

Index

Footnotes

Tians
Page 55
Le Rouge et le Noir
Page 59
The Besprinkling of a Rosemary Branch
Page 85
The Baking of an English Loaf
Page 222
Page 223
Page 227
Crème brûlée
Page 249

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