Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times (17 page)

1.
Preheat a grill or broiler to moderately hot and put the rack 4 to 6 inches from the heat source. Combine the anchovies, parsley, garlic, lemon juice and zest, and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small food processor or blender. Process until pureed, adding a little bit of hot water (or more olive oil) if necessary to allow the machine to do its work. Combine the puree with the capers.

2.
Cut the swordfish in half horizontally, leaving the skin attached as a hinge. Spread about half of the mixture on the inside of the “sandwich,” then close the steak with a couple of toothpicks. Brush with the remaining oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3.
Grill for at least 5 minutes per side, or until the swordfish is done (it should remain slightly translucent in the center). Serve with the remaining green sauce.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS

TIME: 15 MINUTES

SHAD, THE LARGEST
member of the herring family, migrates to the rivers of the East Coast every spring. It’s a big, bony fish (filleting it properly is an increasingly rare skill) with moist flesh that is not unlike that of salmon. But its huge egg sacs, which come in pairs held together by a thin membrane, are the real attraction. They’re filled with millions of eggs, which, if they are not overcooked, remain creamy and rich in a way that is reminiscent of fine organ meat—not quite foie gras, but not that far away either. As a bonus, the exterior membrane becomes slightly crisp.

Most shad roe is sadly overcooked, but this need not be the case. Keep the cooking time for shad roe short, just long enough to firm up the roe and cook it to the equivalent of medium-rare. (It’s okay to cut into it for a look-see the first couple of times you try this, but it’s also pretty easy to get the hang of it, because the change in texture is rather dramatic.) Note that this recipe serves two; it’s easy enough to double, however; just use two skillets instead of one to avoid crowding the roe.

1.
Heat an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat for a minute or two, then add the butter. When it melts, gently lay the shad roe in the pan and sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until the underside is lightly browned.

2.
Turn very gently—a large spatula is best for this—and season the cooked side. Cook for another 3 minutes or so, again until the underside is lightly browned. By this time the roe should be quite firm to the touch; if it is still soft, cover the pan and cook for another minute or two, then cut into it to check. When done, the center will be red and the area surrounding it pink.

3.
Transfer the roe to a warm plate. Add the mustard and ¼ cup of water to the pan; stir. Raise the heat to high and stir the sauce with a wooden spoon until smooth and thick. Spoon over the roe, garnish if you like, and serve immediately

VARIATIONS

Shad Roe with Capers and Vinegar

In step 3, omit the mustard. Instead, stir in 2 tablespoons capers, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of water. Stir until blended and the liquid is reduced by about half. Spoon over the roe, garnish, and serve.

Shad Roe with Bacon

Omit the butter. Begin by cooking 4 thick slices good-quality bacon over medium heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is done; remove the bacon and keep warm. Cook the shad roe in the bacon fat, exactly as directed. Serve the shad roe and bacon with lemon wedges, garnished with fresh parsley.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 20 MINUTES

FISH BREATHES NEW
life into the “sandwich” of Mexico and the Southwest, replacing mystery meat with an identifiable fillet of delicate white fish like cod to make fish tacos, a rarity on the East Coast. Instead of frying, as is common in tacquerias, I like to steam the fish in its own juices, which can be done on top of the stove or in a microwave oven (in fact, this is one of the few cooking tasks at which the microwave excels).

1.
Put the onion and jalapeño in the bottom of a nonstick skillet (or, if you prefer, a microwave-safe casserole). Add a tablespoon of water and top with the fish; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet (or casserole) and put the pan over medium heat (or the casserole in the microwave). Cook for about 6 minutes (3 for the microwave), or until the fish is done.

2.
While the fish is cooking, heat the tortillas. You can dry-toast them in a skillet, one at a time; just flip once or twice over medium heat until hot, a minute or so. Or heat them in a microwave: wrap half a dozen in a just slightly damp towel and nuke for about a minute.

3.
To serve, put a portion of fish (along with a bit of its onion and jalapeño), salsa, and, if you like, hot sauce, sour cream or cheese, and/or vegetables in a warm tortilla. Squeeze a bit of lime juice over all.

FASTEST ROAST CHICKEN

ROAST DUCK IN ONE HOUR

ROAST TURKEY BREAST

THE MINIMALIST’S THANKSGIVING TURKEY

DEVILED CHICKEN THIGHS

CHICKEN WITH SWEET-AND-SOUR SHERRY SAUCE

GRILLED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH SAUCE AU CHIEN

GRILLED CHICKEN BREASTS WITH EGGPLANT, SHALLOTS, AND GINGER SAUCE

CHICKEN THIGHS WITH MEXICAN FLAVORS

GRILLED CHICKEN, SAUSAGE, AND VEGETABLE SKEWERS

CHICKEN UNDER A BRICK

GRILLED CHICKEN WINGS WITH ANCHOVY DIPPING SAUCE

BROILED CORNISH HENS WITH SPICY SALT

BROILED CORNISH HENS WITH LEMON AND BALSAMIC VINEGAR

TEN-MINUTE STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH NUTS

SIMPLEST SAUTÉED CHICKEN WITH GARLIC

CHICKEN CUTLETS MEUNIÈRE

PANFRIED DUCK

CHICKEN WITH RIESLING

CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR

CHICKEN WITH APRICOTS

COQ AU VIN WITH PRUNES

CHICKEN CURRY IN A HURRY

CHICKEN WITH COCONUT AND LIME

SPICY CHICKEN WITH LEMONGRASS AND LIME

SLOW-COOKED DUCK LEGS WITH OLIVES

BRAISED GOOSE WITH PEARS OR APPLES

SEARED AND STEAMED CHICKEN BREASTS

SOY-POACHED CHICKEN

ROASTED AND BRAISED DUCK WITH SAUERKRAUT

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 45 MINUTES

ROAST CHICKEN IS
one of the most basic dishes of home cooking, but there are a couple of challenges: You need high heat to brown the skin, but ultra-high heat may burn it. You need to cook the legs through before the more delicate breast dries out. And, if you’re interested in minimalist cooking, you must accomplish these things without a lot of fuss, such as turning the chicken over three times, searing it on top of the stove before roasting, or constantly adjusting the oven temperature. Plus, you want to do it all as fast as possible.

Well, here it is: fast, nearly foolproof roast chicken.

1.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Five minutes after turning on the oven, put a cast-iron or other heavy, ovenproof skillet on a rack set low in the oven. (Alternatively, put the skillet over high heat about 3 minutes before the oven is hot.) Season the chicken with salt and pepper to taste.

2.
When the oven is hot, about 10 minutes later, carefully put the chicken, breast side up, in the hot skillet. Roast, undisturbed, for 30 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the meaty part of the thigh registers 155°F. Remove from the oven, let rest a minute or two, then carve and serve.

VARIATIONS

• To make a quick gravy while the chicken is resting: Pour out most of the fat, put the skillet over high heat, and add about a cup of water, wine, or stock. Cook, stirring and scraping, until just about ½ cup of liquid is left. Season with salt and pepper and, if you’re feeling extravagant, a tablespoon or two of butter.

• Rub the chicken with olive oil and/or any fresh herbs you like about halfway through the cooking—especially good is a bit of tarragon or a mixture of chopped rosemary and garlic.

MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT AN HOUR

WHAT TURNS PEOPLE
off to roasting duck—its thick layer of subcutaneous fat—is actually its best feature, one that makes it a nearly foolproof dish. The fat keeps the meat juicy even when it’s well done—a distinct advantage because the breast is best medium-rare, but the legs must be cooked through, or nearly so, to be palatable.

In fact, duck is so difficult to roast badly that all experienced cooks seem to claim their procedure is the best. Having tried many methods, I can say that the results are all about the same. So I usually rely on the one presented here, which I believe is the easiest way to guarantee a succulent but beautifully browned bird.

One challenge: a roast duck can easily be finished by two people. If you want to serve four, roast two or plan on a lot of side dishes.

1.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Discard the neck and giblets or keep them for another use; remove excess fat from the duck’s cavity.

2.
Put the duck, breast side down (wings up), on a rack in a roasting pan; add water to come to just below the rack. Sprinkle with pepper and brush with a little soy sauce.

3.
Roast for 30 minutes, undisturbed. Prick the back all over with the point of a sharp knife, then flip the bird onto its back. Sprinkle with pepper and brush with soy sauce again. Add a little more water to the bottom of the pan if the juices are spattering (carefully—you don’t want to get water on the duck).

4.
Roast for 20 minutes, prick the breast all over with the point of a knife, and brush with soy sauce. Roast for 10 minutes; brush with soy sauce. Roast for another 5 or 10 minutes if necessary, or until the duck is a glorious brown all over and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thigh measures at least 155°F. Let rest for 5 minutes before carving and serving.

VARIATIONS

• Follow the general rules for making a
reduction sauce
and you can sauce this duck however you like. Chicken stock and green peppercorns are always good; orange juice is classic. Just be sure to drain nearly all of the fat first.

• Or flavor the duck in a variety of ways while it’s roasting: Put a whole lemon, cut in half, in the cavity while the bird roasts, then squeeze the juice from that lemon over the bird after you carve it. Or stuff the bird with a few sprigs of fresh thyme or parsley. Or keep the pan juices moist with water or stock and cook, along with the duck, a few chopped leeks, carrots, celery stalks, and/or onions.

• Another method for roasting duck is more work but gives somewhat better results: First, steam the duck on a rack over simmering water until it is nearly cooked, about 45 minutes. Then chill it for up to a day; finally, roast it on a rack in a roasting pan at 400°F for about 30 minutes, or until the skin is crisp.

MAKES 6 TO 10 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR

SMALLER TURKEY BREASTS
of about three pounds are perfectly adequate for a party of four or so, and larger ones—they’re available in sizes of six pounds and even more—can be counted on to serve about ten, especially if you make a few side dishes.

The greatest advantage of roasting a turkey breast in lieu of a whole bird is that you can produce white meat that is truly moist—as opposed to the dried-out white meat that is the nearly inevitable result of roasting a whole turkey until the legs are cooked through. Perfectly cooked white meat (all you need is an instant-read thermometer) does not require tons of gravy to become edible, although you may like to serve it with a light sauce.

1.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Put the turkey in a roasting pan; you can place stuffing under its breastbone if you like; if you want crisp stuffing, however, add it to the pan (or bake it separately) when about 30 minutes of cooking time remain.

2.
Brush the turkey with oil, butter, or stock if you like and season it with salt and pepper to taste. Put it in the oven. Roast for 40 to 60 minutes, depending on size, basting with the pan juices (or a little more chicken stock) every 15 minutes or so, then begin checking for doneness every few minutes with an instant-read thermometer. The turkey is ready when the thermometer reads 155°F. Let the turkey rest for 5 to 10 minutes (during which time its internal temperature will rise to about 160°F) before carving and serving.