Back indoors, down the hall, in another lab, five students in white lab coats, bent before Leica dissecting microscopes, searched petri dishes for minuscule grains of plastic. The samples had previously been sieved, and each student was working with particles of a different magnitudeâone with 0.70-micron particles, another with 0.99-micron particles. With tweezers they poked around, sorting particles by color and type, separating nurdles from monofilament from foam from film. Once sorted, the particles would be set aside to dry. Once dry, they'd be weighed on a scale so sensitive that even a breeze blowing over its surface could tip the balance. The goal of these forensics: to determine as irrefutably as possible the plastic-to-plankton ratio in the Eastern Garbage Patch.
While I was marveling at the painstaking process, the door swung open and in walked a surfer chick. She had long, apparently unwashed blond hair pulled back into a messy Rastafarian knot. Circumscribing her head was a knitted band in a black, yellow, red, and green Rastafarian motif. Tucked into her knotted hair above the Rastafarian headband was a pair of sunglasses. She was wearing plaid Bermuda shorts and a black tank top, and carrying a skateboard under her arm. Her name was Amy Young. She'd crewed on the
Alguita
before, and had a word of warning for me: bring Dramamine. “I've been out on a lot of boats,” she said, in a surprisingly high-pitched, surprisingly childish voice, “and
Alguita'
s different even for a small boat, because it's wider. That boat got me.” I had brought Dramamine and, at Moore's behest, one of those flesh-colored transdermal motion-sickness patches that you're supposed to stick behind your ear. I'd also brought some of those ginger candies that had saved me aboard the
Opus.
Back in McDermid's main lab, in a short-sleeved blue-and-white shirt ornamented in some sort of vaguely Balinesian pattern, Charlie Moore was delivering, for the benefit of a local TV news crew, a spiel similar to the one he'd given me in Long Beach: “The ocean obeys the basic law of ecology, which is that in an ecosystem everything is used. But humanity is breaking that basic law.” Or: “We say we're throwing stuff away, but there is no away. The ocean is away.” He described seeing, on “a night dive” a thousand miles off the coast of California, caught in the beam of his waterproof flashlight, a plastic grocery bag. “I'm still upset,” he said. “As a member of the human race I find it embarrassing.”
One of McDermid's students found, among the flotsam she was sorting, a stick of men's deodorant denuded of its label and, camera still rolling, McDermid handed it to Charlie. “Is that a hint?” he asked, uncapping it and swabbing his armpits, then said, “I think I smell better.”
It was a good performance, humorous yet full of the factoids and sound bites that make news producers happy. It was also a performance he'd given many times before, most recently the previous morning, on the
Today
show. There was one datum that was news to me: sailing from Long Beach to Hilo, detouring yet again into the Eastern Garbage Patch, he'd collected samples containing forty-six times as much plastic as plankton, an eightfold increase since 1999. In 1999, plastic had outnumbered plankton by a factor of six.
Moore, environmental Barnum that he is, presented to the camera a bag of plastic sand collected on Kamilo Beach. It looked like the colorful gravel you used to see at the bottoms of decorative fish tanks. By comparing Moore to Barnum, I don't mean to suggest that he's a charlatan; I mean to suggest only that he plays his role exceedingly well. Now, in the information age, which is readily transforming into the disinformation age, if you wish to combat, as Moore does, the armies of corporate publicists waging endless ad campaigns, including green-washing campaigns of the sort devised by Keep America Beautiful, then you have to be media savvy, and like a guerrilla warrior on the information battlefield you have to exploit your adversaries' weaknesses. The problem is that in the universal propaganda arms race that has manifested from the disinformation age, no one trusts anyone, and doubtful citizens are free to luxuriate in distractions, while overconfident citizens are allowed to pick and choose whichever factoids and sound bites confirm their self-serving predispositions. Make-believe, I was beginning to think, is inescapable.
Holding up the bag of plastic sand, Moore explained into the reporter's microphone the mission of the research cruise on which he and I were about to embark. We were going to determine whence this bag of plastic sand came. From fishermen Moore had heard that a “feeder cell,” a sort of miniature garbage patch, had formed fifty miles south of Hawaii in an eddy of convergent currents, an eddy that was in turn generated by the winds that spin between the crests of the Big Island's two active volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Kilauea. From NOAA oceanographers he had procured satellite images showing the convergence zones of the North Pacific. Mostly the convergent currents lie to the north, east, and west of Hawaii, at the heart of the Subtropical Gyre. But on Moore's colorful satellite-generated maps, fifty miles south of South Point, there was a dot of purple, the color that, as a caption to the satellite images explained, represented a zone of “greatest convergence.” It was into this zone that we would sail.
Before leaving McDermid's lab, Moore made it known that the
Alguita
's crew was still one deckhand short. Amy Young, surfer chick, was quick to sign on. “I'm totally stoked,” she said. I swear, that's exactly what she said. Filling out our crew would be two other students in McDermid's marine debris course, Jeff Ernst, a puckish, towheaded kid with a wispy, towheaded soul patch, and Cory Hungate, a buff surfer dude who liked to go around topless, showing off his pneumatic pectorals between which lay, suspended from a hemp lanyard, a pendant fish hook. Carved from bone, the fish hook is an artisanal symbol of Polynesian culture when worn by a native Hawaiian. When worn by a
haole
like Hungate, it is perhaps a symbol of either dudeliness or douchiness. Then there was Moore's wife, Sam Cannon, and co-captain Laurent Pool. A marine biologist with the Audubon Society and a seasoned sailor, Pool had the look of a Jazz Age bohemian. He kept his balding head shaved, sported a pair of little wire-rim spectacles, and, when not on the windy deck of a sailboat, protected his bare scalp with a feathered fedora. Then there was me.
INTO THE CONVERGENCE ZONE
We sailed out of Radio Bay at dusk, intent on making South Point by morning. Conditions at our departure: sea state 3 on the Beaufort scale, wind a little under ten knots, skies cloudy but opalescent, casting a rime of shine on the
Alguita
's brightwork. Even tablespoons of rain puddled on the cabin roof caught the light, and the tinted Plexiglas portholes in the cabin's roof, when the angle was right, turned into celestial mirrors. To shore you could see the green island and the white honeycombs of vacation condominiums. The trade winds were blowing, and conditions promised to worsen when we emerged from the lee of the Big Island, but our main worry, said Moore, was the volcanic smog, or “vog.” “Vog Keeps Students Indoors; Mountain View Gets âWorst Ever Seen' Emissions,” ran the front-page headline in that morning's
Hawaii Tribune-Herald
. Vog smells sulfurous, and for good reason; it consists mostly of sulfur dioxide. The trade winds would speed us along, but they could also blow the vog into our path, or whip up rough conditions. “We can't just beat our way through a trade wind,” Moore said just before we slipped the lines. “We have to finesse our way through.”
Moore divided the crew into pairs and put a watch schedule into effect. Watch lasted four hours. My watch partner was Moore himself, not, I think, because he particularly enjoyed my company or wished to give me extra journalistic access but because he distrusted my seamanship. Moore asks every “prospective research team member” to fill out a questionnaire. My score on this questionnaire, it should be stated, was pathetically low. Did I hold any seaman's documents? No. Did I have CPR and/or first-aid certification? No. Was I a certified scuba diver, a licensed ham radio operator, a scientist? No, no, no. Yes, I had a valid U.S. passport. Yes, I would be “willing to take an active part in the actual operation of the ship.” Yes, I could swim, though I'd rather not do so if there were sharks about. Yes, I had taken “a basic boating course.”
In Hilo, on the eve of our embarkation, as Moore, Sam, and I were walking back to the
Alguita
from dinner at a nearby restaurant, I pulled from my pocket a little length of rope I'd been carrying around in my pocket and executed my bowline. “Good,” Moore said. “Now let's see the clove hitch.” My clove hitch was shakier. I'd only really mastered it during a layover in Minneapolis en route to Hilo. We happened to be standing by a koi pond, beside a highway, and between us and the koi pond was a railing around which, a bit doubtfully, I executed a clove hitch. Moore gave the bight a tug. “Good enough.” The Big Island was loud that night with the singing of coqui frogs, an invasive species that had reached Hawaii, the thinking goes, by stowing away on landscaping plants shipped from Puerto Rico. “A lot of stars for Hilo,” Moore had said, considering the night sky. He swung his hand up as if saluting an angel or an albatross and squinted one eye, sighting down the length of his arm. “We're at 19 degrees north, so that's definitely the North Star.” He slid his arm over a little. “And that's Cassiopeia.”
Kokee, kokee,
a frog sang from a nearby bush. “
Kokee
,” Moore sang back.
Â
Â
We took the graveyard shift, Moore and I, standing watch between ten and two, by day and by night. In fact, except when he was stealing a few hours of sleep, Moore was effectively on duty, very much the captain of his ship. I spent that first watch up on the stippled, supposedly slipproof fiberglass roof of the
Alguita
's cabin. Most of the crew was out thereânot yet weary or seasick, full of anticipation, thrilled by watery beginnings, wearing transdermal patches behind our ears. The clear night sky teemed with stars, some of them shooting. You could see the Milky Way. The tinted Plexiglas hatch above the helm swung open, and out, like a gopher, popped Charlie Moore. He was standing on his captain's chair. Across his brown ball cap swam a sea turtle and the words NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM. He had a pair of binoculars, which he trained to starboard. Excitedly, he pointed out to the rest of us the simmering lavas of Kilauea. Even without binoculars you could make out the orange tendrils and ropes and balls and droplets of molten rock splashing and leaping forth from the black horizon of the land.
That first night at sea, when my watch ended, I did not sleep well. Each of the
Alguita
's two cabins is set down in one of the two aluminum hulls. Captain's quarters are in the port hull, crew's quarters in the starboard hull. I was sharing the crew's quarters with Jeff Ernst and Amy Young. Their berths were up on a kind of loft, right under the tinted Plexiglas hatches. Between their pillows oscillated a little plastic fan. My berth was way down in the humid depths, below the waterline. It was hot down there, but I couldn't complain; consigned to bunks on the port side of the main cabin with only a curtain for privacy, co-captain Laurent Pool and surfer dude Cory Hungate had drawn the worst lot.
I woke, just before seven, to the sound of music, and stumbled, sleepy, rank with sweat, in a caffeine-deprived stupor to the aft deck. Ernst was strumming an acoustic guitar, Young accompanying him on bongos. The manta trawl, already overboard, was still unspooling from the white steel A-frame crane that spanned the stern. It was easy to see how the manta trawl got its name. The resemblance was obvious: from the side of the trawl's boxy aluminum maw flared hollow aluminum wings that, together with the long tail of netting, brought the giant ray to mind. The netting terminated in a cylinder called a cod end. Considering me through a pair of silvered sunglasses, her hair balled up inside a knit cap, Young stopped drumming and said, in her girlish voice, “You going to get some sun on those pasty legs? You've got a library tan, friend.”
Laurent Pool, shirtless, bald head shining, about to take his morning piss off the stern, stopped to consider whether he might end up tainting the sample we were presently collecting and availed himself of the head insteadâan unnecessary detour, it seemed to me; wasn't the ocean full of the eliminations of whales and seals and copepods? Having made a hundred miles during the night, we were right on schedule, right off South Point. You could see up on the green foothills of the Big Island a row of white windmills. If an explorer such as Captain Cook were to have arrived here and discovered this radiant, towering display, I wonder what he would have made of it. I suppose he would have taken the windmills for armaments, or monuments.
Moore was out on the aft deck, too, snapping digital photos of the tropical sunrise, dressed in a pair of baggy black shorts, and flip-flops, and a big baggy tank top that hung from his midriff like a tent. On it was a cartoon finch. His face was whiskery, and his expression seemed by turns melancholic, stoical, or bemused. The wind was up, now twenty to twenty-five knots. Motors off, we were under sail. The waves sloshed pleasantly against the hull. “Quite a lot of potential wind power they've got up there,” Moore said of the windmills on South Point, shadowing his eyes. “Most of those are derelicts.”
Stickers from other institutions and organizations dotted the windows of the
Alguita
's main cabin: Scripps, Woods Hole, Waterkeeper, American Chemical Society (not to be confused with the American Chemistry Council), a website called
Pursuebalance.org
. Leis made from real flowers hung around a brass wall clock, beneath the sound system. In the galley, above the sink, strung along a piece of kitchen string, were those little colorful plastic tabs that clip shut bags of sliced bread. Moore tried to reuse them instead of throwing them out. Tucked on a few small shelves, the
Alguita
possessed a cozy library, with such volumes as
Pacific Coast Pelagic Invertebrates, Stars and Planets, Royce's Sailing Illustrated,
and even a tattered pulp paperback copy of
Moby-Dick.
During the course of our research cruise, as we sailed through oceans, no one went for so much as a dip in this library, at least not while I was looking, though I did notice Laurent Pool reading a book he'd brought with him:
Ishmael
, a didactic ecological novel named for its main characterânot a greenhorn embarking on a whaling trip, nor the outcast son of Abraham, but a telepathic gorilla, who thinks lots of profound ecological thoughts. In Pool's opinion,
Ishmael
was primo stuff. The rest of us were otherwise preoccupied, by trawling, and by music, and by the scenery.