Modernist Cooking Made Easy (34 page)

You can also get this time and temperature information on your mobile phone if you have an iPhone, iPad or an Android. Just search for “Sous Vide” and look for the guide by “Primolicious”.

One of the most interesting aspects of sous vide cooking is how much the time and temperature used can change the texture of the food. Many people experiment with different cooking times and temperatures to tweak dishes various ways.

The numbers below are merely beginning recommendations and are a good place to start. Feel free to increase or lower the temperature several degrees or play around with the cooking time as you see fit as long as you stay in the safe-zone.

D
ONENESS
R
ANGE

One of the most common questions we get asked about our sous vide recipes is some variation of “the recipe says to cook it for 3 to 6 hours, but when is it actually done”.

The short answer is that anytime within the given range the food is “done”. As long as the food has been in the water bath for more than the minimum time and less than the maximum time, then it is done. There isn’t a specific magical moment of true doneness that can be generalized.

For those that want more information, here’s the explanation why.

The How and Why

To have this conversation we first need to determine what “done” actually means. For sous vide there are two main “doneness” concerns when cooking your food. The first is to ensure that the food actually comes up to the temperature you are cooking it at (or becomes pasteurized at for some food). The second concern is making sure the food is tender enough to eat without being “over tender”, mushy, or dry.

Once the food you are cooking is completely up to temperature and it is tenderized enough to eat (and not over tenderized), it is now “done”. For some already tender cuts of meat like filets, loins, and chicken breasts you don’t have to worry about tenderness since they start out that way. That means that these cuts are “done” once they get up to temperature. You can find out this time using our Sous Vide Thickness Ruler.

However, despite them being “done” at the minimum time shown, they stay “done” for several hours past that time, depending on the starting tenderness of the meat. This is why we give a range. You can eat a 1” cut of filet mignon after 50 minutes but you can also eat the filet up to 3 hours after it has gone into the bath without any loss in quality, tenderness, or flavor.

This is how our ranges are determined. They specify that for an average cut of the given meat, they will become “great to eat” tender at the minimum time given. They will continue to get more tender the longer they are in the bath but will remain “great to eat” tender until the final time given, at which point they may begin to get mushy and overcooked. In essence, they will be “done”, and very tasty, for that entire span between the minimum and maximum times.

Another Way to Look at It

Another way to think about how this works is to use the following analogy. Pretend you were helping a new cook grill a steak. If they told you they wanted to cook it medium rare and asked you to tell them how to tell when it was “done”, what would you say?

Most people would reply with “when the temperature is between 131°F to 139°F”.

If the friend isn’t a cook they would ask “Yeah, but when is it actually done?”

The answer at this point really comes down to personal preference since to some people medium rare is perfect at 131°F and others prefer a little more well-done 135°F, but a medium rare steak is “done” anywhere in that range.

Other Critical Variables

One other complicating factor is that there are many variables that go into determining how fast a piece of meat tenderizes and/or becomes tender.

The most obvious variable is that some cuts of meat are tougher than others. For example, a top round roast needs to be tenderized a lot longer than a ribeye. Most people realize this and that’s why almost all sous vide charts break the food down by “cut”.

Another less obvious but almost as important factor is where the meat came from. There is a big difference between how fast the meat tenderizes and how the cow was raised. I’ve found that grass-fed meat from my local farmer needs just 1/2 the time to become tender compared to supermarket meat (this is also true when roasting or braising them). I’ve also talked to a reader in Mexico who eats local grass-fed beef that needs slightly longer times than normal because the cows work more.

There are then the variables in the actual cow itself. Whether the meat is prime, choice, etc. makes a difference in tenderizing time. As does the marbling, how old the meat is, and several other factors.

So taking all of this together it can be hard to accurately determine a range of “doneness” that will work for all cuts of meat. But we try our best to come up with a nice range of times that the “average” piece of meat will be done in. The only way to really learn is to experiment with the types of meat in your area and see how they react. And luckily for us, sous vide allows us to have a wide range that food is done in.

In Conclusion

So while there might be one magical moment in the cooking process where a certain piece of meat is the most ideal tenderness, in practice there is a wide time range in the cooking process where the meat will be “done”. As long as you take it out sometime in that range it should turn out great.

As you get more experience with your local meats, and determine your personal preferences, you can start to tweak your cook times to suit them more exactly. But as you are learning just remember that the food will be “done” anywhere in that range, and don’t sweat the details!

B
EEF -
R
OASTS AND
T
OUGH
C
UTS

Bottom Round Roast

Brisket

Cheek

Chuck Roast

Pot Roast

Prime Rib Roast

Rib Eye Roast

Ribs

Short Ribs

Sirloin Roast

Stew Meat

Sweetbreads

Tenderloin Roast

Tongue

Top Loin Strip Roast

Top Round Roast

Tri-Tip Roast

Shank

B
EEF -
S
TEAK AND
T
ENDER
C
UTS

Blade Steak

Bottom Round Steak

Chuck Steak

Eye Round Steak