Authors: Hari Nayak
NOTE The rice flour used in this recipe is made from finely ground rice. It can be found in Indian grocery stores or online. Brown rice flour, available in many health foods stores, should not be used as a substitute.
Pistachio Mango Ice Cream
Pista Aaam Ki Kulfi
This dessert is a favorite among Indians, and is always a crowd-pleaser at my parties. Kulfi, literally “Indian ice cream,” can be made with any flavor of your choice, and is easier to make than American ice cream. In India, street vendors sell kulfi on a stick—like a popsicle. Since good fresh mangoes are not available year-round, I recommend using the canned Alfonzo mango purée available in Indian grocery stores. The purée is refreshingly and tasty. Some purées are sweetened, so adjust the sugar according to your taste. I prefer to use rice flour as a thickening agent in this recipe because the resulting texture is creamier as compared to when cornstarch is used.
Serves 8
Prep time: 10 minutes plus 8 hours for cooling
Cook time: 30 minutes
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
6 cups (1.5 liters) whole milk
1 tablespoon white rice flour or corn starch
5 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom, preferably freshly ground green cardamom seeds (from about 6 green cardamom pods) (see tip)
1 cup (250 ml) unsweetened, canned mango pulp or purée (or puréed flesh of 2 ripe, preferably Alfonzo, mangos)
1/2 cup (55 g) pistachios, chopped
TIP To extract cardamom seeds from the pod, place the cardamom pods in a mortar and lightly pound the pods with the pestle. Or place the pods in a small ziplock bag and roll over them with a rolling pin on a flat surface. The pods will burst open and the seeds will come out.
To grind the extracted cardamom seeds, remove the pods from the mortar or bag. If using the ground cardamom to flavor desserts and beverages, mix the seeds with a teaspoon of sugar. (The sugar acts as an abrasive and allows you to grind the seeds to a finer powder more easily, but can only be used for sweet dishes and beverages.) If using the mortar and pestle, pulverize the seeds with the pestle until they are finely ground. If using the bag and rolling pin method, crush the seeds with a rolling pin, moving the pin back and forth over the seeds, applying a fair amount of pressure, until they are finely ground.
Pistachio Biscotti
In preparation, texture and shape, these cookies are similar to Italian biscotti, and, like the Italian cookies, they are great for dunking into a hot beverage. In India, these nutty, tasty treats are served as an afternoon snack with chai (Indian tea) or coffee. One word of advice: Don’t skip the freshly grated orange zest—you won’t believe the difference it makes. These cookies keep well at room temperature for at least 3 to 4 weeks if stored in an airtight jar.
Makes 30 to 40 cookies
Prep time: 20 minutes
Bake time: 30 minutes
1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting work surface
1/2 cup (115 g) sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (110 g) shelled pistachios
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
2 eggs, beaten
1 Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2 Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, pistachios and orange zest together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center. Place the eggs in the well and then fold them into the flour mixture to make a sticky dough.
3 Turn the dough out onto a clean floured surface. Divide the dough into two sections and, using your hands, roll each portion into a log approximately 11/2 inches (3.75 cm) in diameter. Place the logs on a large cookie sheet lined with parchment, leaving approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) between each log to allow for spreading.
4 Bake for 30 minutes. Remove and allow to cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 275°F (135°C).
5 Remove the cookie logs from the cookie sheets and, with a sharp bread knife, cut each of the loaves into slices approximately 1/4-inch (6-mm) wide. Lay the cookies on the cookie sheet, cut-side down, and return them to the oven. Bake for 20 minutes, turning the cookies once until slightly brown on the edges. Remove from the oven and cool the cookies on wire racks.
Chai Crème Brûlée
In India, teas take their names from the regions in which they are grown, hence the names Darjeeling, Assam, and Nilgiri, all referring to places in India, and most have their own distinct and delicate flavor. Though teas, in India, are not typically used for making desserts, the idea of combining spiced tea with crème brûlée, a delectable, all-time favorite custard, struck me as an interesting idea. As a perpetual student of food, nothing excites me more than bringing a smile to my family and friends with a new creation, especially a sweet treat. Serve this with seasonal berries or fresh fruits.
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes plus 6 to 8 hours for chilling
Cook time: 15 minutes
2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (20 g) black tea leaves or 6 to 8 black tea bags, preferably Assam, Nilgiri or Darjeeling tea
1 vanilla bean, split open
4 green cardamom pods
One 2-in (5-cm) stick cinnamon
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon whole cloves
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
1 Place the cream, tea leaves or tea bags, vanilla bean, cardamom, cinnamon, black peppercorns and cloves in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside for 10 minutes to infuse. Strain and set aside. Discard the tea leaves/bags and spices.
2 Whisk the egg yolks and 4 tablespoons of the sugar in the top of a double boiler over gently simmering water until pale and thick. Do not overcook. Add the reduced tea extract, whisking constantly. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon, approximately 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter a little at a time, until thoroughly combined.
3 Pour the custard mixture into 4 individual 4-ounce (125-ml) ramekins and chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.
4 Just before serving, evenly sprinkle the custard with the remaining sugar. To evenly distribute the sugar, pour 1 tablespoon of the sugar in the middle of each custard. Then tilt the ramekins and gently tap the sides, letting gravity move the sugar across the surface of the custard until they are evenly covered. Take a kitchen butane torch or propane blow torch and, holding it about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) from the top of the custard, heat the sugar until it bubbles and changes color. Take your time and don’t move from one area of the custard to another until the spot you’ve been working on has achieved a nice golden brown color. With a typical kitchen torch, this takes a little less than a minute for each crème brûlée. Don’t worry about heating up the custard underneath; you can refrigerate the crème brulee for a bit before serving. To avoid catching your kitchen counter on fire, place the ramekins on an aluminum foil lined cookie sheet or sheet pan.
Almond Butter Cookies
I just love these cookies. These sweet bites are easy to make. The flavor of cardamom, honey and almonds makes them so special. Cardamom is a commonly used spice in Indian cooking in both sweet and savory dishes. I have used almond flour in this recipe, which can be made at home simply by pulsing blanched whole almonds to a fine powder in a blender or a food processor. (To make 1½ cups almond flour, you will need 3 cups (450 g) whole almonds. You can substitute store-bought almond flour, which is sold in specialty food stores.) Serve these cookies with Ginger Cardamom Chai (page 153).
Makes about 30 to 35 cookies
Prep time: 15 minutes
Bake time: 20 minutes
1½ cups (3 sticks/335 g) unsalted butter
1¼ cups (245 g) sugar
½ cup (125 ml) honey
2 cups (240 g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1½ cups (240 g) almond flour
1 tablespoon ground cardamom, preferably freshly ground green cardamom seeds (from about 10 green cardamom pods) (see tip, page 145)
Almond slices, for decoration (optional)
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
1 Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C).
2 Melt the butter, sugar and honey in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
3 Sift the all-purpose flour and baking powder in a large bowl. Stir in the almond flour and cardamom. Add the butter mixture and stir until just combined. Do not over mix.
4 Line two cookie sheets with parchment. Place tablespoons of the dough, 2 inches (5 cm) apart, on the prepared cookie sheets. Flatten each portion of dough slightly to form a flat disc. Lightly press an almond slice in the center of each cookie and bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until lightly brown. Let rest for 5 minutes on the cookie sheets. Transfer to wire racks to cool completely. Dust lightly with the confectioners’ sugar and serve. These cookies should be stored in an airtight jar at room temperature.
Creamy Rice Pudding
Kheer
This creamy cardamom-spiced rice pudding, known as kheer, can be enjoyed hot or cold, and is probably the most popular pudding in India. It is often served during Indian festivals. When I was growing up, my mother would make it for the occasional elaborate Sunday meal. The whole milk and cream can be substituted with nonfat milk for a lower fat version. I have used basmati rice as I feel it makes the most flavorful Indian rice pudding. Kheer made with basmati is a north Indian or a Punjabi specialty. In the south, they make a similar version using long-grain white rice and, in Bengal, they make a version using Bengali short-grain rice. I’ve included a contemporary twist on the traditional kheer using apples. When making Cardamom Apple Kheer, I like to use tart firm apples like Granny Smith.
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes plus 2 hours for cooling
Cook time: 40 minutes
1/3 cup (70 g) uncooked basmati rice
51/2 cups (1.3 liters) whole milk
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom (see tip, page 145)
2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream, plus more if needed
1/3 cup (55 g) golden raisins
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
1 tablespoon slivered almonds, toasted, for garnish
1 Combine the rice and milk in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring the milk to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Once the milk has come to a boil, lower the heat and gently simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, uncovered, until most of the milk has been absorbed. Stir frequently while the rice is cooking to avoid scalding, which will add a burnt flavor to the pudding. (If you think the milk is beginning to burn, lower the heat and avoid scraping the bottom of the pan.) Stir in the ground cardamom, cream and golden raisins.
2 Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar. Let cool, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming. This pudding will be thick and creamy. Stir in additional cream if the pudding is too thick. Refrigerate until cold. Serve in individual serving bowls garnished with the toasted slivered almonds.
Variation:
Cardamom Apple Kheer
Peel and dice 2 apples. Heat 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the apples and sauté until soft. Add a pinch of ground cardamom and sugar to taste. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the apples are caramelized lightly. Let the apples cool. Fold half of the apples into the cooked and cooled kheer and use the rest as a topping.
Mumbai Fruit Punch
Mumbai Thandai
Summer holidays while growing up meant trips to Mumbai to spend time with cousins and taste delicacies made by my favorite Shanta Aunty! This fruit punch brings back very fond memories of me and my cousins getting together for a fun-filled school vacation—running around the neighborhood, playing cricket in the sweltering sun, breaking glass windows with a swing of the ball, and then running away from a beating… as far as the eye can see. What can be more refreshing than a glass of chilled homemade fruit punch, post such notorious behavior! This punch is an ode to my unforgettable childhood days. I make it with sparkling wine, but it can be made without any alcohol—simply replace the wine with ginger ale or lemon soda.
Serves 10 to 12
Prep time: 20 minutes
2 cups (500 ml) freshly-squeezed orange juice (from 5 to 6 oranges)
1/4 cup (65 ml) freshly-squeezed lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)
1 cup (250 ml) freshly-squeezed ruby red grapefruit juice (from 1 large grapefruit)
3 cups (750 ml) pineapple juice
2 cups (300 g) diced watermelon
2 cups (250 g) diced, fresh pineapple
1 orange, cut into wedges
1 apple, cored and diced
1 cup (150 g) seedless grapes, cut in half
1 lemon, sliced
2 limes, sliced
11/2 cups (375 ml) dry sparkling wine (2 splits or one-half 750-ml bottle)
Crushed ice
1 Mix everything together, except the sparkling wine and ice, in a large bowl or jar. Let the mixture sit for 30 minutes.
2 Fill 8-ounce (250-ml) glasses with ice and fill three-quarters of the way with the punch. Add a splash of the sparkling wine just before serving.
Mint Lime Cooler
Pudina Limbu Sharbat
This barely sweetened drink is a delightful thirst quencher on hot summer afternoons. I enjoy this drink with an extra kick of ginger. Adjust the ingredients according to your taste. Add some white rum to transform this cooler into a great mixed drink.
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
One 3-in (7.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled
4 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly-squeezed lime juice (from about 4 limes)
6 cups (1.5 liters) sparkling water or club soda
6 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper (optional)
5 to 6 ice cubes
1 Blend together all the ingredients, except the ice, in a blender.
2 Strain and pour into four, tall 6-ounce (185-ml) glasses filled with ice.
Sweet Mango Yogurt Lassi