My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking (25 page)

Make these strong and useful strips out of the scraps of silnylon, rip-stop nylon, or pack cloth fabric you are working with. They can be used for loops in almost any piece of gear. Cut fabric strips 3.5 inch wide. Fold each edge towards the center, lengthwise, and then fold that in half, so that the strip is 4 thicknesses. Stitch close to both long edges. Cut into lengths as needed.

You will need
:
rip-stop nylon, pack cloth or silnylon
6 inches of web strapping or fabric strip, for pull loop

1/8-1/4 inch diameter cordage
cord lock

  Decide how large you want your stuff bag, then add 3 inches to the length and 2 inches to the width for seam allowances and draw cord casing. For instance, if you want a 9 x 12 stuff sack, cut a rectangle that is 20 inches wide by 15 inches long. If you would like a collar on this sack, cut a semi circle with a 6-inch radius. If you will be using these stuff sacks for the packless system, described in Chapter 3, make each stuff sack 5 inches longer than the width of your pack.  

  Lay out fabric, cut and heat-seal the rectangle and collar by passing edge of fabric 1/2 inch from a candle flame. Take care not to burn or scorch. Heat-seal your hold-loop while you're at it. 

  Form draw cord casing by hemming the top of the rectangle, folding over the top edge, or double rolling it, and stitching close to the folded edge. If you would like a collar, tuck it under this casing as you sew.

  Fold in half the long way, with right sides of rectangle facing each other and casing and collar facing outwards, at the top.  Pin the hold loop at the bottom of the sack, so that the loop is going up into the right side of the sack, and the ends of it are sticking out into the seam allowance. You should not be able to see this loop if it is in the right place. If this stuff sack is to be used for the packless system, while sewing the side seam, add two fabric loops in the same manner as the bottom loop, so that this bag can be cinched on to the frame horizontally.

  Start stitching just below the casing, using a ¾ inch seam. Sew side and bottom, backstitching at the beginning, and end of your seams. To reinforce seam, either do a second seam 1/8 inch away from the first, or better still, roll the seam allowance and stitch it down.

  With your stuff sack still inside out, form the squared off bottom by matching the bottom seam with side seam, and stitching across the imaginary line to form a triangle. You are actually spreading the bottom of the bag out, and sewing little triangles into each end of the bottom seam. Do both sides the same way.

 
Turn right side out.  Using the cord threader described above, draw the cord through the casing. Put on the cord lock. Tie a double knot at end of cord, heat seal.
 

Sleep Net

  When the bug situation gets really challenging, use a sleep net during the day on your upper body when you stop for breaks. It can also be worn sitting in camp while you are cooking, eating, and writing in your journal. When you wear it while sitting, this size sleep net will provide almost total body protection from flying insects.
  When used in shelters and high traffic camping areas, a sleep net can keep mice out of your sleeping bag and hair. The hanging loop on the front can be used to suspend the net above you, keeping it away from your face.

Supplies:

2 1/2 yards no-see-um-netting

Cord lock, 3 yards cordage

Fabric strip 6 inches long

  Cut a piece of no see-um-netting 82 inches long by 47 inches wide. Fold netting in half, so that the side seams will be 41 inches long, and the width will be 47 inches. Sew both side seams. There is no seam across the top. The top is on the fold.

  Form squared off corners by matching the top fold line with a side seam, and stitching across the imaginary line to form a triangle. You are actually spreading out the top of the sleep net, and sewing triangles into each end of the top. Do both sides the same way.

  Stitch the corners down towards the side seam to form a box-type construction. Then, turn right side out.

  Measure 25 inches up from bottom to place a hanging loop on the front of the sleepnet. Sew a loop onto the front side of your sleep net, reinforcing with an x stitch.

  Hem the bottom of the sleep net by folding over and sewing a casing, double rolling the fabric just as you would for a stuff sack or ditty bag. Leave a few stitches open to thread cord through. Thread cordage. Add cord lock. This net will weigh about 2-3 ounces.

For a pack with about 4,000 cubic inch capacity, you will need:

50 x 60 inch piece of rip stop nylon, or silnylon
5 feet round elastic cord
Cord lock

Clip

8 inches ¼ inch flat elastic

6-inch fabric strip

  This method produces a seamless pack cover. Take the silnylon rectangle; carefully fold into fourths. Trim the corners so they are rounded. Unfold and heat seal all the cut edges of fabric, taking special care not to scorch or burn your fabric. Mark half way down both long sides for the safety elastic clip and fabric loop placements.

  Make a casing for the elastic draw cord by double rolling the perimeter edge toward the inside, and stitching close to the edge. This is the same method used for a ditty bag or a stuff sack draw-cord casing, but going around the corners will be more difficult and result in some small tucks.

  To facilitate threading cord later, when you sew the casing near the rounded corners, keep a generous, evenly tucked method. Fold the flat elastic in half, inserting the clip, and sew into the casing as you stitch. Backstitch for reinforcement. Add the fabric loop on the opposite side of the pack cover while sewing down the casing. These two loops can be clipped together when high winds threaten to blow the pack cover away. Leave a small opening at top of pack cover where the cord will be inserted.

  Insert draw cord using the plastic threader described at the beginning of this section. If you use a safety pin, it may score the fabric, making it prone to tearing. Securely attach the elastic cord to the threader by tying a knot.  Draw the cord through the entire casing. This takes patience. You don't want to lose cord while threading it or you will have to start over on this part.

  Once the cord is threaded through, add your cord lock to the ends of the cord, and heat seal the ends. Make a good-sized knot to prevent the cord lock from falling off, or even use a small bead at the end before tying the cord.

Directions are based on fabric that is 60-65 inches wide. You can make sleeping bag liners, outer shells, simple bivy sacks, summer bags or vapor barrier bags, depending on fabric choice.

Supplies:

2-2 1/4 yards of fleece, silk, taffeta, tyvek or silnylon for a vapor barrier bag.

Zipper or Velcro, at least 42 inches long, if wanted
1/4-inch diameter cordage, 6-foot length
Cord lock

  Fold fabric lengthwise so that it measures 30 inches wide. Cut to the desired overall length, which includes the top of the hood, and 3 inches extra for hood casing and bottom seam allowance. A regular bag is about 86 inches long.

  Cut out the face area from the topside of the bag, a 25-inch wide by 14-inch long rectangle. Trim all corners so they are round. Round the corners at the bottom of the bag.

  With right sides together, stitch the bottom and up the side to the beginning of your closure, using a 3/4-inch seam allowance. If you do not want a side opening, stitch all the way up to the top, where the face opening has been cut out. Always backstitch at beginning and ending of seams to lock stitches. Sew another row of stitching if desired. Turn bag right side out.

  Form draw cord casing for the hood by folding fabric to the inside all along the top of the bag. Stitch close to the edge, about ¾-inch from the fold. If you are using fleece, do not attempt to roll under the cut edge, simply sew it down flat. All thin fabrics should be rolled and folded under, a double roll, just as you would for the stuff sacks and ditty bags.
  Leave an opening in your casing on the opposite side of the bag, away from the closure.
Thread the cord through the casing and add the cord lock. If you do not have a side closure, you have hemmed the entire top and are finished. If you want a side seam/closure, tack the cords down at the closure seam, and bring a loop of cordage through the opening at the side of the bag. Add the cord lock there and tie a knot so the cord lock cannot come off. By placing the draw cord this way, you prevent any interference from it when you get in and out of your bag.   

If you chose a Velcro closure
:
Cut Velcro 42 inches long.

Fold over 3/4-inch fabric to outside of topside of bag. Lay loop side of Velcro over this. Stitch close to all sides of Velcro.
Fold to inside, 3/4 inch of fabric on bottom side of bag, and apply the hook side of Velcro. Matching the first inch of Velcro at bottom of closure, reinforce by sewing an X over the end.

If you chose a zipper:
Beginning just at the bottom of the draw cord casing, fold over 3/4 inch of fabric to inside of bag. Lay zipper teeth facing up; stitch down one side, and up the other, as you would for any zipper application. Have the fabric overlap the zipper teeth. Reinforce zipper by backstitching over beginning, bottom, and ends of zipper.

Directions are based on fabric that is 60-65 inches wide. You can make sleeping bag liners, outer shells, summer bags or vapor barrier bags depending on fabric choice.

Supplies:

14 feet of
fleece, taffeta, silk, or silnylon for vapor bags
2 zippers or Velcro, at least 42 inches long for each side
13 feet, 1/8-1/4 inch diameter cordage, cut into a 6 foot length, and a 7 foot length
4 cord locks

  Fold fabric end to end, 76 inches from one end, salvages touching, so that it measures 60 wide. The back of the bag will measure 92 inches long. This will form the hood.
  Round corners at foot area if desired, and at top of hood. Right sides together, stitch up the sides to the bottom of your closure, using a 3/4-inch seam allowance. Always backstitch at beginning and ending of seams to lock stitches. Turn bag right side out.

  Form front draw cord casing by folding an inch of fabric to the inside and stitching close to the edge, about 3/4 inch from the fold.
  Thread cord through, end to end, and anchor midway by stitching crosswise over the middle of the cord. This prevents cord from being inadvertently pulled all the way through by your partner. Add cord locks to each end of cord, tie knot and heat seal cord end.
   Make the hood casing by folding the top and side edges of the hood area to the inside. Thread
cord, secure in middle with stitching. Add cord locks to each end.

If you chose Velcro
:
Cut two loop and two hook sides of Velcro, each 42 inches long. Fold over 3/4-inch fabric to outside of bottom side of bag. Lay loop-side of Velcro over this. Stitch close to all sides of Velcro. Fold 3/4 inch of fabric to the inside on top side of bag, and apply the hook side of Velcro. Matching the first inch of Velcro at bottom of closure, reinforce by sewing an X over the end.

If you chose a zipper
:
Beginning just at the bottom of the draw cord casing, fold over 3/4 inch of fabric to inside of bag. Lay zipper teeth facing up; stitch down one side, and up the other, as you would for any zipper application. Have the fabric overlap the zipper teeth. Reinforce zipper by backstitching over beginning, bottom, and ends of zipper

You will need
:
Fleece:
...1/3 yard for Ski Band
...1/2 yard for Neck Gaiter
...1/2 yard for Watch Cap
...1/2 yard for Mittens

  These measurements for yardage are linear. Fleece is sold 60 inches wide, so if you are making two or more things, you may still only need 1/2 yard, because there will be remnants left from one project for another. For instance, the watch cap and mittens would fit side by side on 1/2 yard of 60" wide fleece. It is necessary to have the stretch in the right direction, that's why the linear measurements are important. Be sure, when you lay out your fabric, to check the direction of the stretch. This is important to insure the garment “gives” in the correct direction. Cut with a sharp scissors. Sometimes the fuzz will build up in the bobbin case of your sewing machine. Clean this with a small, dry paintbrush after sewing to prevent tension problems later. Use 100% polyester thread and a size 14-ball point sewing machine needle. Stitches are 10 per inch, seam allowances 1/2 inch. Always backstitch beginning and ending of seams to secure.

Ski Band
Cut a rectangle 9 inches wide by 14 inches long. The length should be stretchable. With right sides together, sew long side. Turn right side out. You should have a long tube. Tuck under 3/4 inch of fleece (to the inside) on one end of tube. Slide other, unfinished end into this and pin. Hand or machine stitch these ends together.

Neck Gaiter
Cut a rectangle 18 inches long by 28 inches wide. The stretch should be along the width. Fold rectangle in half, so that it measures 18 inches long by 14 inches wide. With right sides together, sew along side edge, forming tube. Turn right side out. Hem bottom and top by folding to inside 1/2 inch of fabric and stitching.

Watch Cap
  Using a favorite cap as a pattern, trace around it on a piece of plastic or newsprint. Cut out this pattern, leaving one extra inch all along for seam allowance. If you want a cuff, add an additional 7 inches on the length. This will increase the weight by about two ounces. The cap must have the stretch on the width.

  Lay out fabric, place pattern piece on top. Cut two. With right sides together, stitch all curved sides together leaving the end open. Leaving it inside out, fold fleece up 1/2 inch for a basic hem, or 5 inches for a cuff. Stitch close to raw edge. Turn right side out. The cap may be folded up to form a cuff, or pulled all the way down.

Mittens
  To make pattern, lay your hand on a piece of plastic sheeting or newsprint.  Trace around it, or copy the pattern as you did for the watch cap. If you want a longer cuff, add the additional length to your pattern. Add an additional inch for seam allowances. Lay the pattern on fleece, with the stretch going the width of your hand. Cut two mittens out, two for each hand, providing a total of 4 pieces. To be sure you have a left and right, lay them side-by-side, thumbs facing each other. Unless the fabric is different on one side, this won't matter.

  Stitch all curved edges, leaving wrist edge open. Hem wrist-edge by folding under 1/2 inch and stitching close to raw edge. Snip curves between thumb and index finger, and at top of thumb. Turn right side out.

   If you plan to sew them onto a fleece pullover or jacket, do not hem first. Put on the jacket, then the mittens. Pull the sleeves down and bend your elbow. This will insure that you have enough movement. Mark the top of the mitten where it overlaps the jacket. That will be the stitching line. Leave the underside of the mitten unattached, with a longer cuff, which can be tucked in. Sew in the top of the mitten; trim away unnecessary fabric, leaving the unattached part longer. Hem the raw edges.

   Directions are written for using
1.3-ounce silicone impregnated rip-stop nylon
, which generally is sold in 65-inch widths.

You will need 2 inches extra for hem allowances on each side, meaning the raw piece will be 4 inches longer, and 4 inches wider than the finished product. Center seams are based on a one-inch seam allowance, sufficient for double rolling and stitching to finish seams.

  You can use
web strapping or gross grain ribbon
for the staking loops, or make fabric strips from silnylon, as described previously. Cut into lengths as needed. I use 7-inch lengths for my center seam double loops, 6-inch lengths for the corners, and 5-inch lengths for perimeter hems.

   If you want a
5 foot wide tarp
, cut the length desired with an additional 4 inches for hem allowances.

  If you want a
10 foot wide tarp
, cut two of the lengths desired with an additional 4 inches on each piece for seam allowances.

  If you want a tarp width between those two measurements, you will need to trim the fabric, and heat seal the entire edge. For an
8 foot wide tarp
, cut two lengths, each 51 inches wide. This gives you one inch for the center seam, and 2 inches for hemming the perimeter. If you want a
9-foot wide tarp
, cut the widths 57 inches for the same reasons.

If you have a center seam
:

   Start by preparing the center loops that you plan to add as you sew the center seam. Mark the placements for the loops with chalk. Sew both lengths together, inserting double folded loops at placement markings. Back stitch while adding the loops. One loop should be on the underside, and one loop formed on the top side, sticking out of the seam allowance. Double stitch this center seam by folding over within the seam allowance, and stitching close to the first row.

 
Next,
cut 4 lengths of staking loop fabric, 6 inches each for the corners. Cut the other 5-inch staking loops. Place them in different piles. Mark within the seam allowance where you will insert the loops as you hem your tarp. Heat-seal any cut edges before you begin hemming.

  Fold over the perimeter edge twice, a double roll, and stitch close to the inner edge. Fold prepared fabric strips in half to form staking loops, and insert them into the hem at markings. Backstitch the loop, then fold the loop towards the outside and stitch over again. Continue around perimeter in this manner. When you get to the corner, you will want to place the loop at an angle, so that when it is finished, the loop can be used from either direction. Sew a second roll of stitching close to the edge, including loops in this process. Reinforce corner loops with an x pattern. If you have a center seam, seam seal it, and allow to dry 24 hours before stuffing into stuff sack.

  This is by far the most difficult pattern. Read all the steps through before proceeding. If you have a daypack, book bag backpack, or internal frame pack, set it out for referencing.

  This pack was made totally out of silnylon, closed cell padding, plastic buckles and web strapping for the shoulder straps, reinforcements and hip belt. Later, I sewed a mesh ditty bag onto the front. My design is based on the idea of one large stuff sack set within another. The bottoms of those sacks are sewn together.  

  Outside gear pockets were then formed by stitching 4 vertical side seams, one on each side, and one in the center of the front and the back.  A cover flap with Velcro closures can be added for each pocket if wanted. All reinforcement stitching was done in triangular and x-patterns, which does not rip out like a straight pattern will. A one-inch seam allowance was used for extra strength. Every seam was seam sealed with 100% silicone, as described above for tarps and shelters.

  Silnylon fabric loops were sewn into the bottom seam, in order to cinch a stuff sack or closed cell sleeping pad underneath. All my AT gear for cold weather fit inside the pack and in the pockets. The extension collar/cover flap had a pocket for those really important things like toilet paper and data sheets. A hip belt was sewn-in with webbing reinforcement. The belt measured 3 inches wide and ½ inch thick. A tiny pocket was added to the hip belt to carry my 1-ounce bottle of chlorine for water treatment.