One Bad Apple (38 page)

Apples have a funny habit of propagating themselves, constantly creating new varieties in the wild, even today. While modern commercial orchardists have focused their efforts on a very limited number of apple types, emphasizing yield and efficiency of production, many of the older varieties survive here and there, if you know where to look. The New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York, is keeping the wealth of varieties alive, with over 2,500 examples.

Apple names recall their long history and even hold a touch of romance: Belle de Boskoop, Cornish Gilliflower, Hubbardston Nonesuch, Knobbed Russet, Pitmaston Pineapple, Sheepsnose,and Westfield Seek-No-Further—all link us to the long and diverse history of the apple.

There is no one perfect apple. Some make delightful eating (Baldwin, Fuji, Gala, HoneyCrisp, Braeburn), others work well for succulent pies (Cortland, Jonathan, Granny Smith, Winesap, Rome Beauty), and still others are bitter on the tongue but make great cider.

If you would like a charming glimpse into the diversity of apple varieties, please seek out Roger Yepsen’s small illustrated book titled simply
Apples
. It is both delightful and useful reading.

Preheat the oven to 300˚.

If you are using a whole duck, divide into quarters (removing the backbone). Score the skin and fat of the duck pieces without cutting into the flesh. Season with salt and pepper.

In a large ovenproof saute pan or skillet (into which you can fit a rack), heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, about 2 to 3 minutes. Sear the duck pieces, skin side down, for about 4 to 5 minutes, without moving.

Transfer the duck pieces to a plate and pour off the fat from the pan. Place a rack in the pan, and set the duck pieces on the rack, skin side up. Place in the oven and roast for approximately 45 minutes or until the duck is medium rare or registers 165° on an instant-read thermometer. Set the duck pieces aside to keep warm while you make the sauce.

Core but do not peel the apple and slice ⅛ inch thick. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan, then place the pan on the stove over medium heat. Add the apple slices and peppercorns and cook, turning occasionally, until the apples are golden, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and rosemary and cook, stirring, until the shallots soften, about 2 minutes. Add the hard cider and increase the heat until the mixture comes to a simmer, and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the honey and cider vinegar, and simmer for another minute. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Serve the duck pieces topped with the apples and sauce.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Grease muffin tins for 12 muffins or line with baking cups.

Combine milk and cereal in a large mixing bowl.

Sprinkle the diced apples with 2 tablespoons sugar and the cinnamon and toss lightly.

Sift together ⅓ cup sugar, flour, salt, and baking powder.

Add egg and melted shortening to the milk and cereal, and stir in apples. Add the dry ingredients all at once. Mix only until the dry ingredients are moistened. Batter will be lumpy.

Fill greased/lined muffin tins two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. If you like, you may dip the warm muffins in cinnamon sugar.

Preheat oven to 375°.

Combine sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, and sliced apples. Place in greased baking dish.

Mix together topping ingredients to make crumbs and sprinkle over apples.

Bake for 35 or 40 minutes until brown and bubbly.

Preheat the oven to 400°.

Soak the apricots in boiling water to soften. Drain well and pat dry.

Pare, core, and thinly slice the apples. Mix together the apple slices, apricots, cranberries, sugar, and flour.

Line a 9-inch pie plate with one crust and fill with the apple mixture. Dot with butter. Cover with the second crust and crimp the edges. Cut vents on the top for the steam to escape.

Bake at 400° for 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 350° and continue baking for another 45 minutes. If the crust appears to be browning too quickly, cover loosely with foil.

You may vary the filling by adding a peeled, sliced quince if you can find one. This gives the filling a lovely silky quality.

Preheat the oven to 325°. Butter and flour a 9- or 10-inch tube pan (8-cup capacity).

Combine oil and sugar in a bowl. Blend very well. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Sift these into the oil-egg mixture and combine thoroughly. Add the raw apples. Mix well with a spoon or spatula, then add the vanilla. Pour the batter into the pan.

Bake for 1¼ hours, or until the cake tests done (tester comes out clean). Remove from the oven and let rest while you prepare the glaze.

Glaze: Melt the butter, sugars, and heavy cream mixed with vanilla in a heavy pan. Boil for 1 minute without stirring, then remove from heat.

Let the cake cool for a few minutes before removing it from the pan. Spoon the glaze over the cake while it is still warm.

This is an excellent party cake, as it travels well and stays moist. You may also cut the recipe in half.