Roumeli (16 page)

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Authors: Patrick Leigh Fermor

The ancients were a theme for pride; they were also a cause for self-reproach. How could the Greeks compete with these antique resurrected wonders? (How can any of us?) Their inadequacy suggested a hopeless falling-off; those stony faces were a standing rebuke. An inspiration to some, to others they were a source of bewilderment, and for a few, a subject for resentment, almost for anger: why not blow up the Parthenon? The new trends seemed to put the whole of
Romiosyne
, all that made life worth living, in the wrong. Anyway, the Romaic Pantheon was full. The spirit of Byzantium was enthroned there, and Constantine and Helen and Basil the Bulgar-Slayer and the last
Palaeologue; a whole phantom parade of emperors whose City was still in bondage. There, too, were the Virgins, the saints and the martyrs of Orthodoxy: their ikon lamps burned in all their houses; their frescoes, dark with incense and blurred by the kisses of a thousand years, covered the walls of their churches. It was not for their mystical significance that this painted army was loved, but for the miracles they wrought, and their ghostly succour in dark days. To these had been added the mountain chiefs and the sea captains of the War of Independence: Kolokotrones, Karaïskakis, Athanasios Diakos, Miaoulis and Kanaris and many others. These whiskered heroes were
Romaíoi
to the backbone. Apotheosis crowned them; theirs were the yataghans, the long guns and the fireships that had delivered Greece from the Turks. Leonidas and Miltiades, meanwhile, could look after themselves. They had performed brave deeds against the Persians, it was said. But it was such a long time ago.
[5]

There is a purpose behind this preamble: to lull the reader into receptivity before launching a private theory of my own which I shall call the Helleno-Romaic Dilemma. The cornerstone of this theory is the supposition that inside every Greek dwell two figures in opposition. Sometimes one is in the ascendant, sometimes the other; occasionally they are in concord. These are, of course, the
Romiòs
and the Hellene; and for the sake of the present theory, the word “Hellene” is distorted to mean only the exact antithesis to “
Romiòs
.” All Greeks, according to my theory, are an amalgam, in varying degrees, of both; they contradict and complete each other. But it is the antagonism of the two which concerns us here, not their possible synthesis.
“Two souls, alas,” my hypothetical Greek might exclaim with Goethe, “live in my breast.” It suggests a lifelong Zoroastrian war in which the Hellene is Ormuzd and the
Romiòs
, Ahriman. I advance all this with diffidence. Greek friends on whom I have tried out the Helleno-Romaic Dilemma were interested and amused by the idea and thought there might even be something in it. The easiest way to present it is by drawing up two parallel lists of characteristics, allegiances and symbols taken at random from a larger catalogue which could cover many pages. Some, for the sake of illustration, are purposely slight and frivolous. Here they are.

 

THE ROMIÒS
THE HELLENE
1
Practice
Theory
2
The Concrete
The Abstract
3
The real
The ideal
4
Private ambition
Wider aspiration
5
Argument
Rhetoric
6
Concentration
Diffusion
7
Instinct
Principle and logic
8
Improvisation
System
9
Empiricism
Dogma
10
Love for the recent past
Love for the remote past
10
a
Admiration for Western material progress, distrust of Western theories
Admiration for European civilization, rooted in ancient Greek liberal ideas. Some distrust of Western materialism
11
Retention of Romaic customs
Adoption of Western customs, abhorrence of Romaic orientalism
12
Distrust of the law. Readiness to bypass it by
manœuvre, favouritism or by any of the bad old short-cuts
Respect for the law. Hesitation, on principle, to bypass it by the means opposite
13
Self-reproach about Greece's material limitations
Self-reproach about Greece's Romaic blemishes
13
a
Respect for learning as a means to advancement
Respect for learning for its own sake
13
b
Belief in quick returns
Reliance on the long view
14
Reliance on inherited precedent and proverb
Search for analogy in the ancient world
15
Seeing the outside world as a field to be exploited
Travel in search of knowledge or legitimate commerce
16
Evaluation of things in terms of money
Admission of other values
17
Reluctance to admit ignorance
Admission that there are things beyond his range of knowledge
18
Compulsive labelling of everything, whether accurate or not
[6]
Compulsion to define, explain and classify
19
Looking on Greece as outside Europe
Looking on Greece as a part of Europe
20
Seeing Europe as the region of alien “Franks”
Europe the region of fellow-Europeans
20
a
Reaching agreement by bargaining
Settlement by negotiation
21
Belief in the sacredness and indestructibility of
Romiosyne
Belief in the destiny of Hellas
22
Strong regional loyalty,
distrust of people from different provinces, e.g. Crete
v
. Mani
Centripetal tendency towards Athens. Contempt for provincial rivalries and limitations
23
Certainty of every Romiòs of his own suitability for the office of Prime Minister
Decent self-confidence
24
Shrewdness, impaired by (
a
) credulity and (
b
) needless suspicion
Circumspect acumen
25
Tendency to resolve political difficulties by revolution
Belief in constitutional method, with revolution only as a last resort
26
Lack of scruple to gain personal ends
The soul of honour
27
Fatalism
Philosophic doubt
28
Quick wits
Lively intelligence
29
Marriage wholly determined by dowries and parental bargaining
Milder version of the same, modified by romantic and aesthetic factors
30
Blind tribal allegiance to a political party, based on regional bias or personal allegiance to a figurehead
Strong political partisanship with a greater chance of its being based on private deliberation
31
A passion for newspapers, especially the political sections
A passion for newspapers, especially the political sections
32
Unquestioning belief in the printed, as opposed to the written or spoken, word. This is corrected intermittently, by the remark: “Nothing but lies in the newspapers.” The attitudes are often reconciled by the
paradoxical ability to believe two contradicting statements simultaneously
A stricter approach, and a reduced capacity for the reconciliation of opposites
33
Abhorrence of a naked fact, and haste to clothe, amplify and elaborate: “The mythopoetic faculty”
Comparative absence of this bias
34
Daemonic capacity for exertion under stimulus of enthusiasm, interest, patriotism, friendship, ambition
The same, tempered by 7, 8, 9
35
Tendency to flag if stimulus and urgency are removed. Dread of boredom
The same, corrected or mitigated by 7, 8, 9
36
Procrastination due to 34, and lack of sense of time. Dislike of routine
Climatic influences, corrected or mitigated by 7, 8, 9
37
Trust in improvisation (8) and the tendency to allow things to fall into decay through feeling of impermanency of human affairs
Belief in maintenance and up-keep, due to greater hope for establishment and security
38
Sensitiveness to insult, which leads to rash, violent and self-destructive acts, or enduring and implacable feud
Same sensitiveness, but reaction less violent and calling for milder sanctions
39
Despair and melancholia (
stenachoria
) if things go wrong. May be mitigated in time by fatalism, proverbs and a saving resilience
Same tendencies considerably reduced, corrected by comforts of philosophy
40
Fondness for
leventeiá
, i.e. the dash and fire of youth, a cheerful temperament, courage, speed, quick reactions, good looks, skill in singing, dancing, marksmanship, capacity for wine drinking and fun, often accompanied by
meraklidilíki
, its sartorial expression
An acknowledgement of the characteristic with a distinctly more restrained and sober approach
41
Importance of
philotimo
, “honour-love,” i.e. honourable conduct between humans, in chaos of
Romiosyne
, and, above all, private
amour propre
, like the Spanish
pundonor
, or personal dignity. It is wounds to this—“he touched my
philotimo
”—which must often lead to 37
Honour regarded as a precious legacy from the ancient Greeks
42
Bessa:
a word of Albanian origin, meaning the inviolability of an oath, especially in guerrilla warfare. The opposite of treachery
Probably the same as above
43
Settling the world's problems over endless cups of Turkish coffee in cafés
Settling the world's problems over endless cups of Turkish coffee in cafés
44
Fondness for cards, backgammon, etc.
The same
45
Sobriety and frugality relived by dionysiac interludes
Interludes likely to be less dionysiac
46
Addiction to
amané
songs, i.e. wailing, nasal rather melancholy melopees in oriental minor mode
Violent abhorrence of
amané
as alien and barbaric survivals
47
Urban addiction to
rebétika
songs and dances: i.e. Athenian low-life, fatalistic, near-apache hard luck stories, accompanied by special stringed instruments. Supposed to have originated in hashish dens. Complex solitary dances, perhaps from Asia Minor. The choreographic expression of the songs
Distaste, based roughly on the same reasons as the foregoing. Tendency towards Western music
48
Rustic devotion to mountain, island and country dances (usually a chain of dancers led by a solo performer)
Toleration of these as “wholesome” and as part of heroic tradition and folklore and for their possible descent from the ancient Pyrrhic dance
49
Rustic devotion to
klephtika
or Klepht songs: long, fierce and semi-oriental in style, celebrating mountain warriors' feats of arms
Toleration of the same in theory if not in practice, as humble mementoes of Hellenism's triumph over barbarian occupation: “Wholesome”: unlike
amané
and
rebétika
50
Outward disapproval, but secret sympathy, in the distant past, for brigandage and piracy; survivals of a lively and anarchic life
Understandable condem nation of these as stumbling blocks to government and the functioning of a European
state: “
Romaikès douliès
” at their worst
51
Fondness, among the old, for smoking narghilés
Disapproval, for obvious reasons
52
Addiction to the
komboloi
: amber beads strung together like a rosary, and clicked rhythmically as a nerve-settler, like chain-smoking
Faint disapproval, even if addicted
53
Fondness of a small, raffish minority (urban low-life
rebétika
world, see 47) for occasional hashish smoking, as accompaniment to singing and dancing
Proper abhorrence of this oriental survival
54
Belief in miraculous properties of certain ikons
Enlightened disbelief
55
Resort, among isolated rustic communities, to magical remedies administered by old women. Retention of many pagan superstitions, practices and beliefs
Scorn of obscurantism, even though magical practices and superstitions are of ancient descent. Trust in medical science
56
Indifference to ethical and mystical content of religion, but semi-pagan attachment to the Orthodox Church as the unifying guardian of
Romiosyne
in times of trouble
Comparative indifference to ethical and mystical content of religion, but tolerance of Orthodox Church as symbol of Hellenism
57
Strict observance of religious fasts and feast days and instinctive, tribal retentions of many of the external signs of Orthodoxy
A tendency to disregard these, except at holidays of Christmas and Easter
58
Patriotism based on 21 (R), and inspired, in wartime, by the memory of the Klephts
Patriotism based on 21 (H), and inspired, in wartime, by the heroes of the ancient world
59
War seen in terms of guerrilla
Military science
60
Rule of thumb
Text book
61
In general, impulsive readiness for anything that is not vetoed by some hallowed taboo
More restraint and a more cerebral approach to the problems of life
62
Homesickness for Byzantine Empire
Nostalgia for the age of Pericles
63
Demotic
Katharévousa
64
The Dome of St. Sophia
The columns of the Parthenon

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