SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI WITH PECANS AND BROWN BUTTER
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Admittedly, we will try to incorporate sweet potato into just about any recipe. It is such a versatile vegetable, and one of the most healthy and inexpensive available. Even though they are potatoes, they do not have the starch content of russets, therefore you need both kinds for this recipe. The aroma of the brown butter and toasted pecans from this dish will mingle perfectly on a table with your other holiday sides.
¾ cup kosher salt
¾ pound russet potatoes (about 3)
½ pound sweet potato (about 1 large)
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
1 large egg yolk
¾ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup pecan halves, chopped
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spread the kosher salt on a baking sheet. Set all of the potatoes (russet and sweet potato) on the salt and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Let cool and discard the salt.
To make the dough, peel the baked potatoes. Work them through a potato ricer, or press through a flour sifter, into a large bowl. Mix in 1 teaspoon of the sea salt, the egg yolks, and the flour. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead it gently 3 or 4 times, adding more flour if necessary to keep the dough from sticking. Cut the dough into six equal pieces and cover with a clean, barely damp kitchen towel.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Fill a bowl with ice water and have ready.
Lightly flour a baking sheet and also flour a dinner fork. To form the gnocchi, working with one piece at a time, roll the gnocchi dough on a lightly floured work surface into a ¾-inch-thick rope. Cut the rope into ½-inch pieces. To form each gnocchi, using your thumb, roll each piece along the back of the tines of the fork to make indentations, then gently roll the dough off the fork. Transfer the gnocchi to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat until all the gnocchi are formed.
To cook the gnocchi, salt the boiling water. Once it reaches a boil, decrease the heat to a strong simmer. Add half of the gnocchi and stir gently until they begin to rise to the surface, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the ice water to cool down, then drain well on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining gnocchi.
To finish the dish, in a large bowl, toss the gnocchi with the olive oil, and spread them out on a large baking sheet.
In a very large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Cook the butter over moderate heat until it begins to brown, about 1 minute. Add one-third of the pecans and cook, stirring, until the nuts are toasted, about 2 minutes. Add half of the gnocchi and cook until they are golden brown and warmed through, about 2 minutes. Season with one-third of the remaining sea salt and transfer the gnocchi to a bowl. Repeat with the remaining butter, pecans, and gnocchi.
Serve immediately.
CREAMY COCONUT RICE
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Since we love cooking Asian food at home, we almost always have a large bag of Japanese or short-grain rice on hand. You can use Japanese rice in any recipe that calls for short-grain rice, for example, in place of Arborio rice in risotto. We cook this rice dish like risotto, starting with white wine and shallots and gradually adding liquid as it cooks. The coconut recalls Thai and Caribbean dishes, but we like to serve it with New Orleans flair, alongside spicy crawfish.
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium shallots, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 cup short-grain or Japanese rice
¼ cup white wine
4 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, shallots, and garlic and decrease the heat to medium-low. Cook until the shallots are soft and translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir for about 1 minute. Add the white wine, stir to incorporate, and cook until the wine is almost fully absorbed. Add the water, ½ cup at a time, while stirring, making sure it is almost fully absorbed each time before adding the next portion. Once all of the water has been added and is completely absorbed, add the coconut puree and stir well.
Remove the garlic, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
“SHRIMP CREOLE” RISOTTO
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The classic shrimp creole is a rustic dish comprised of shrimp stewed in a spicy tomato sauce served over white rice. This highbrow version maintains all of the flavors of the original, but with separate, perfectly cooked ingredients. Risotto is the creamy vehicle that brings all of the flavors together in each bite.
24 medium shrimp (about 1 pound), peeled and deviened, shells reserved
2 cups cold water
5 tablespoons light olive oil
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and minced
2 medium carrots, minced
2 stalks celery, minced
2 small white onions, minced
1-inch-wide strip orange zest, white pith removed
1 jalapeño chile, minced
2 bay leaves
4 cloves garlic
Sprig of flat-leaf parsley
2 sprigs thyme, plus 1 tablespoon thyme leaves, for garnish
¾ teaspoon fine sea salt
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 (12-ounce) can imported Italian whole tomatoes with juice
1 cup white wine
1 cup Arborio rice
¼ cup unsalted butter
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 green onions, white and green parts, cut into thin rings, for garnish
To make the sauce, place all of the shrimp shells in a medium saucepan and cover with the cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat and then decrease to a simmer. Skim any impurities that rise to the surface off with a ladle and discard. Cook the stock for 25 minutes, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve and reserve.
In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until smoking. Decrease the heat to medium and add the bell pepper, half of the carrot, half of the celery, half of the minced onion, the orange zest, chile, 1 bay leaf, 2 cloves of the garlic, sprig of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper. Cook the vegetables until tender, about 3 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and ½ cup of the white wine and cook for 3 minutes. Add enough of the shrimp stock to just cover the vegetables with liquid (about 1 cup). Cook the sauce for 20 minutes. Remove all the herbs and puree in a blender until smooth. (Before turning on the machine, be sure the lid is tightly secured and covered with a towel to prevent the hot mixture from escaping.)
Return the sauce to the pan on a warm stove and reserve.
To make the risotto, place a saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the remaining onions, carrots, celery, garlic cloves, thyme, bay
leaf, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Decrease the heat to medium and cook the vegetables until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the rice to the pan, stir, and cook for 1 minute more. Add the remaining ½ cup white wine and cook until most of the wine is absorbed in the rice. Add the warm chicken stock in ¼-cup increments, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding chicken stock, stirring, until the rice is al dente.
Finish the risotto with the butter and lemon zest and juice. Remove the herbs and adjust the seasoning.
To prepare the shrimp, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat until smoking. Season the shrimp on both sides with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Decrease the heat to medium-high and add the shrimp. Cook the shrimp on each side for 1 minute, to give them nice color, then transfer them to a plate.
For each serving, divide the risotto evenly among four bowls and top each with six shrimp. Spoon the sauce around the risotto and garnish with green onions and fresh thyme leaves.
BLACK TRUFFLE GRITS
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This dish is really the ultimate in “high-low” cooking. The high-class truffle elevates the lowly grits into a dish reserved for your most special occasions. Black truffle puree is a good chunk of change, so serve this with an inexpensive, yet unctuous braised meat, such as beef short ribs or pig cheeks. If you can’t find cuts such as those, try it with a simple chicken dish.
4 cups whole milk
1 cup quick grits
½ cup unsalted butter
¼ cup heavy cream
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 (⅞-ounce) tube black truffle puree (see
Sources
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2 teaspoons white truffle oil (see
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)