Authors: Rick Rodgers
Setting the Scene
I know caterer types that seem to have hot-glue guns at the ready. Not me. I prefer to spend my creative time in the kitchen. When it comes time to decorate, I subscribe to the philosophy “less is more.”
You can do very simple things that say “Thanksgiving.” Roll up napkins with an autumn leaf around the center, and tie with a piece of raffia straw. Put a foil-wrapped chocolate turkey at each place setting. One of my favorite settings wasn’t especially elegant, but it was fun. Each setting had a lighted kitschy candle (Pilgrims, Indians, and turkeys) that I had collected from different candle stores. They looked great, all grinning and blazing away. And everyone took his candle home.
Remember that centerpieces for a dining table must be low enough for people to see over. Pumpkins are a great start. Large, hollowed-out ones can serve as vases. Mini-pumpkins or apples can hold candles (remove the stem and carve a hole in the center). Another simple centerpiece is a floating candle in a glass bowl, with cranberries added to the water. Sometimes I do nothing more complicated than a basket filled with autumn foods (persimmons, grapes, apples, and nuts), entwined with a length of French wired ribbon. The food can be eaten at the end of the dinner, so it doesn’t go to waste. If you wish, substitute brightly colored gourds and dried corn for the fruit. I often steal items from this centerpiece to decorate the turkey platter.
At formal table settings, place cards are appropriate, and they look great taped to the side of a mini-pumpkin at each plate. I have also baked large turkey-or leaf-shaped cookies and decorated them with my guests’ names inscribed in icing. They rarely get eaten that evening because people like to take them home as a memento. (To each his own. I eat
mine
.) If you want to try this, just use your favorite rolled sugar or gingerbread cookie recipe.
Pilgrim’s Progress
The Thanksgiving Story
In the middle of all the planning and festivities, keep in mind what Thanksgiving is about. It’s not about football, or pumpkin pie, or even turkey. The Pilgrims (aka Puritans) used the feast as a celebration to give thanks for the good in their lives, in spite of the fact that it had been a very difficult year. But it was no solemn occasion. One professor of American history said that Thanksgiving “was a party, and a three-day party, at that!”
The Puritans wanted to purify the Church of England of rituals that had their roots in Catholicism. They were driven from England by James I, and fled to Holland in 1608. Twelve years later, tiring of Dutch customs and language, they made the difficult decision to immigrate to the New World,
where they could practice their own customs and language. One hundred and two passengers made the sixty-six-day journey on the
Mayflower
, landing in Provincetown Harbor (not Plimouth Rock), on Cape Cod, on November 21, 1620. Exactly one month later, after exploring the area, they chose Plimouth as the settling spot.
By harvesttime the next year, forty-six of the original group had succumbed to scurvy or pneumonia. However, the autumn crop had been good, mainly due to the help of one Pawtuxet Indian, Squanto, who taught the settlers much about farming in their new home. Squanto, who had been a slave in Spain and escaped to England, spoke English. He had returned to his native village only six months before the Puritans arrived.
The Puritans were familiar with harvest festivals, which were common in England. So, it was a natural turn of events for Governor William Bradford to declare a thanksgiving feast. The exact date has never been established. According to Bradford’s own history,
Of Plimouth Plantation
, on September 18, he sent men to trade with the Indians. The harvest was gathered after they returned. The first written mention of the party was in a letter dated December 11. But with all of the outdoor activities described by the original sources, the event probably happened while the weather was still reasonably warm.
As for the menu, we know that Bradford sent “four men fowling” to gather wild poultry for the feast. They returned with ducks and geese and a “great store of wild Turkies.” However, to the Puritans, turkey meant any kind of guinea fowl, which also roamed the wilds of the Atlantic coast, and we can’t be sure that our familiar turkey was served. Venison was surely on the menu (the Indian chief Massasoit sent braves into the woods who “killed five Deere which they brought to our Governour”), along with lobsters, clams, sea bass, corn, boiled pumpkin, watercress, leeks, and dried fruit. Corn cakes, fried in venison fat, were served as the bread, as there was no wheat. It is assumed that cranberries, an Indian favorite, would have been included, probably cooked in maple syrup. As there were no cows, there could be no dairy products like butter, milk, or cheese. Contrary to popular belief, the Puritans did drink alcohol, although they did not tolerate drunkenness, and quaffed a strong beverage that probably resembled brandy.
After the meal, a little exercise was in order. Of course, football hadn’t been invented yet, but the Indians and Puritan soldiers played other games. Marksmanship was exhibited with both the bow and arrow and the musket, and athletic prowess with footraces and jumping matches.
The Thanksgiving feast did not become an annual event. The only other Thanksgiving occurred in 1623, to celebrate the end of a drought. Harvest festivals continued throughout the colonial period, but actual “thanksgivings” were saved for major events, like the one in 1789 proclaimed by George Washington to commemorate the new Constitution. It was around this time that the
term “Pilgrim” came into use. The Puritans referred to themselves as “First Settlers,” or “First Comers.” They eventually became known as the “Forefathers,” but during the American revolution, “Pilgrim” became an alternative.
We have our modern holiday thanks to the dogged efforts of one woman, Sarah Josepha Hale, the influential editor of the popular woman’s magazine
Godey’s Lady’s Book
. With over 150,000 subscribers, Hale used her editorials to promote a national day of Thanksgiving, and wrote letters to presidents, governors, and other high-profile people. She espoused a day to “offer to God our tribute of joy and gratitude for the blessings of the year.” The magazine did much to romanticize the Pilgrim as a steadfast, hardworking, religious model of American perseverance. After years of grandstanding, she finally got the support of President Abraham Lincoln, who declared Thursday, November 23, 1863, a national holiday. Over the years, Thanksgiving was always an excuse for unabashed feasting and fun. Staid New Englanders considered Christmas a religious holiday, and hardly “celebrated” it at all. It wasn’t until German immigrants brought their customs to America in the late 1880s that Christmas got a makeover.
Until 1941, it was up to each president to declare the holiday each year, which usually took place on the last Thursday of November. In 1939, President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who felt Thanksgiving was too close to Christmas and diluted the effect of the later holiday, moved the date to the third Thursday of that year. The country responded bitterly, and a lot of people took off the fourth Thursday anyway. The next year, emotions were even higher. The only people who liked the change were the merchants, who saw a longer Christmas buying season. Finally, in December 1941, a joint resolution of Congress specified the fourth Thursday in November (which is sometimes, but not always, the last Thursday) as Thanksgiving.
The first Thanksgiving Day parade was held in Philadelphia in 1923. It was sponsored by Gimbels department store. Macy’s first parade occurred the next year, in New York City. The first professional football game on Thanksgiving was played by the Detroit Lions and the Chicago Bears in 1934.
Thanksgiving doesn’t enjoy the same literary attention as Christmas. Few Thanksgiving songs, movies, or books have established themselves like the Christmas classics “Jingle Bells,”
It’s a Wonderful Life
, and
A Visit from St. Nicholas
. My favorite Thanksgiving story is “A Thanksgiving Visitor” by Truman Capote, and I don’t like to let the holiday go by without playing my old LP of Arlo Guthrie’s “Alice’s Restaurant.” “Over the River and Through the Woods” just doesn’t stand up to Arlo. Also, the turkey-cooking scenes in the films
Home for the Holidays
and
Pieces of April
are hilarious, but don’t expect these movies to make you feel like phoning your family.
T
he concept of “Make Ahead cuisine” is of paramount importance at Thanksgiving, but even more so when planning your appetizer and beverage strategy. Serve tasty goodies that will keep the edge off everyone’s hunger, but nothing that needs last-minute preparation or warming up. Little individual hors d’oeuvres that need to be baked are definitely out, if for no other reason than the ovens will probably all be in use, cooking the main event. The best tactic is to set out foods that need no attention other than an occasional refill. Spiced nuts, hot or cold dips, cheese balls and cheese boards, savory cookies—all of these can be prepared well ahead of time.
Some foods, such as cheese balls and pâtés,
must
be prepared ahead for their flavors to mellow; they are among my favorites because they allow me to scratch an item off my preparation list days in advance. The only time of year I serve a relish tray is at Thanksgiving. (When I was growing up, all of us kids would stick pitted black olives on our little fingers and eat them off, one by one.) If I have home-preserved goodies from my summer canning, they get place of honor. Otherwise I buy high-quality goods like pickled okra, Italian giardiniera, and stuffed olives from a specialty food market. And at least two kinds of pickles, one sweet and one sour.
The visual appeal of your appetizer platters is really important. Here are a few ideas I learned from my days as a Manhattan caterer:
Don’t forget incidental details. Put cocktail napkins on your shopping list. If you are serving a warm dip in an electric mini–slow cooker, be sure you have a long enough extension cord and that it can be plugged in where no one will trip over it. If you are using a fondue pot or a chafing dish to keep the dip warm, purchase a supply of the appropriate liquid fuel.
When it comes to beverages, remember that you are under no obligation to provide a fully stocked bar. And, just like becoming an excellent cook, it takes practice and a bit of skill to be a fine bartender with an extensive cocktail repertoire. If you have narrowed down your menu choices to make an intelligent, balanced meal, you can do the same with the drinks. Remember your obligation to your guests’ well-being, and don’t encourage overdrinking, especially from drivers. If you offer homemade nonalcoholic beverages, it doesn’t make abstainers feel as if they are cursed to an evening of club soda. Always offer one beverage that is just as tasty spiked as it is without alcohol, such as Bloody (Virgin) Marys or Autumn Glow Punch (pages 22 and 23). If someone isn’t driving and wants to add a splash of vodka or rum, he can go ahead. Sparkling apple cider is a great choice—I like to serve it in champagne flutes to make the drinkers feel that their drinks are just as important as the alcoholic ones. Set up the bar outside of the kitchen, in such a way that everyone can help themselves.
Glittering Spiced Walnuts
It makes no difference how many of these addictive nibbles I make, they are always gone by the end of the evening. They have many irresistible qualities. The unusual deep-frying procedure gives them a delectably thin glaze, and the seasoning mixture is so much better and fresher than any Asian five-spice powder you can buy in a bottle. I’ve changed the recipe a bit over the years, increasing the spice mixture to reflect our collective palate’s growing appreciation of bold seasonings. Walnut halves, not pieces, give the best results, as the smaller pieces tend to burn. They can be found at most supermarkets, or look for them at specialty food stores or online.
Makes about 4 cups, 8 to 12 appetizer servings
Make Ahead: The walnuts can be prepared up to 2 weeks ahead.
ASIAN SPICES
1 whole star anise (use 6 or 7 “points” if pod is broken)
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¾ teaspoon coriander seed
¾ teaspoon whole Sichuan peppercorns
¾ teaspoon fennel seeds
6 whole cloves
1
/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper or more to taste
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1 pound walnut halves
½ cup sugar
Salt, for sprinkling (use fine sea, plain, or iodized salt)
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
A deep-frying thermometer
A large wire skimmer
1.
To make the spice mixture, finely grind the spices in a spice or electric coffee grinder. Set aside.
2.
Place a rimmed baking sheet next to the stove. Line a second baking sheet with paper towels. In a deep Dutch oven, add enough vegetable oil over high heat to come halfway up the sides, and heat to 365°F.
3.
Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the walnuts and cook for 1 minute. The water does not have to return to a boil. (This heats the walnuts and removes excess bitterness.) Drain in a large colander. Do not rinse. Immediately, toss the walnuts in the colander with the sugar until the hot water clinging to the walnuts melts the sugar to form a thin glaze.
4.
In two batches, carefully add the nuts to the oil and deep-fry them until they are golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using a large wire mesh skimmer, transfer the walnuts to the unlined baking sheet (the hot walnuts would stick to paper towels) and cool completely. When cooled, transfer the walnuts to the paper towels to drain excess oil.
5.
Place the walnuts in a bowl. While tossing the nuts, sift the spice mixture through a fine-meshed wire sieve over them. Discard the hulls in the sieve. Season with the salt. (The walnuts can be prepared up to 2 weeks ahead, stored in an airtight container at room temperature.)
Note:
If you want to make more than one batch, have extra oil on hand. The sugar on the nuts “caramelizes” the oil after deep-frying a pound or two, and makes it necessary to use fresh oil.
Buttered Cajun Pecans
Even when it isn’t a holiday, these have become my stand-by snack to make for cocktails, because they are so easy to toss together from pantry staples. The secret is making your own Cajun seasoning. There are many Cajun/Creole spice mixtures on the market, but they can be salty, and it’s easy to make a batch from the spices in your kitchen cabinet. Use any left over to season grilled poultry, fish, or pork, or sprinkle on popcorn.
Makes about 4 cups, 8 to 12 appetizer servings
Make Ahead: The pecans can be prepared 1 day ahead.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound pecan halves
1 tablespoon Cajun Seasoning (recipe follows)
2 teaspoons sugar
In a very large nonstick skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the pecans and cook, stirring often, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the Cajun Seasoning and sugar, and stir until the sugar melts, about 1 more minute. (While they are best freshly made, the pecans can be prepared 1 day ahead of serving, stored in an airtight container at room temperature.) Serve warm or at room temperature.
Cajun Seasoning:
In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons sweet paprika (preferably Hungarian), 1 tablespoon each dried thyme and dried basil, 1 teaspoon each garlic powder and onion powder, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and
1
/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper.
Spicy Cheddar and Pecan Balls
Most of us who grew up in the fifties and sixties remember those party animals, nut-covered cheese balls. Here’s an updated, zesty cheese ball for today’s tastes, chunky with roasted red pepper, green olives, capers, and pickled jalapeños. It’s a great recipe for large gatherings. The mixture can be rolled into one large ball, but two smaller balls make for easier serving, as they can be placed in different spots within reach of more people.
Makes 2 medium cheese balls, 8 to 12 servings each
Make Ahead: The cheese balls can be prepared up to 3 days before serving.
Two 8-ounce packages cream cheese, at room temperature
1 pound extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded
1 medium red bell pepper, roasted (see Note) and cut into ¼-inch dice
½ cup pitted and chopped Mediterranean green olives
2 tablespoons bottled nonpareil capers, rinsed
2 tablespoons chopped pickled or fresh, seeded jalapeños
1 to 2 teaspoons chili powder
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 garlic cloves, crushed through a press
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
1 cup coarsely chopped pecans
Assorted crackers, for serving
1.
At least 4 hours before serving, in a large bowl, using a rubber spatula, mash the cream and Cheddar cheeses together until combined. Using the spatula, work in the remaining ingredients except the pecans.
2.
Transfer half of the cheese mixture to an 18-inch long piece of plastic wrap. Bring up the edges of the plastic wrap and twist them to form the cheese mixture into a ball. Repeat with the remaining cheese. Refrigerate until chilled and firm, at least 4 hours. (The cheese balls can be prepared up to 3 days ahead.)
3.
Before serving, roll the cheese balls in the pecans to cover completely. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. Serve with the crackers.
Note:
It is easiest to roast bell peppers in the broiler. Position a broiler rack about 4 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler. Cut the top and bottom from a red bell pepper, discarding the green stem (it pops out from the cut top). Slice each bell pepper vertically, and open it up into a long strip. Cut out and discard the ribs and seeds. Place the bell pepper pieces, including the top and bottom, skin sides up, on the broiler rack. Broil until the skin is blackened and blistered, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let stand until cooled. Scrape off the blackened skin. If you need to rinse the pepper, do so briefly under cold water. Bell peppers can be roasted up to 2 days ahead, covered, and refrigerated.
The Famous Disappearing Spinach Dip
A colorful selection of crudités with a tasty dip is just enough to hold some folks over until the big meal. It’s always hard to decide which dip to serve, but this creamy, green-flecked mixture often makes my final cut. It makes a huge bowl, but on the rare occasion when some is left over, I turn it into a great salad dressing by blending the dip with buttermilk and a dash of vinegar. This recipe is from the collection of my dear friend Diane Kniss, who insists that its secret lies in store-bought ingredients.
Makes about 5½ cups, enough for 20 appetizer servings
Make Ahead: The crudités can be prepared 1 day ahead. The dip can be prepared up to 5 days ahead.
One 10-ounce box chopped frozen spinach
One 15-ounce container sour cream
2 cups mayonnaise
½ cup finely chopped fresh scallions
½ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
½ cup finely chopped fresh dill
One 1.8-ounce package leek-vegetable soup, such as Knorr’s
1 tablespoon cheese-based salad seasoning, such as Salad Supreme
Assorted crudités, for serving
1.
Put the spinach in a wire sieve and run under lukewarm water until thawed. A handful at a time, squeeze the moisture out of the spinach and transfer the spinach to a large bowl.
2.
Add the sour cream, mayonnaise, scallions, parsley, dill, leek soup, and salad seasoning, and mix well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The dip can be prepared up to 5 days ahead.) Serve with crudités.
The Crudité Garden
Crudités (the French word for raw vegetables) are always a welcome addition to the appetizer spread. Crudités should be thought of as an appetite-teasing, color-filled, crunchy, delicious cornucopia, not just a few carrot sticks in a bowl. Of course, the vegetables should be fresh and appealing, but choose them with an eye to contrasting colors, shapes, and textures to make the selection interesting to the eye and the palate. To set them off, place the crudités in a basket lined with curly kale leaves.
Some vegetables are fine raw, but others benefit from a quick parboiling to set their color or make them less crunchy. Vegetables that are best parboiled include asparagus, broccoli, carrots, green beans, and cauliflower. Cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, celery sticks, mushroom caps, bell pepper (green, yellow, red and/orange) strips, and zucchini should be served raw.
To parboil crudités, cut the vegetables in the desired shape—florets, spears, or sticks. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. In separate batches, cook the vegetables just until crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes, no longer. Drain the vegetables and rinse well under cold running water to stop the cooking and set the color. Some cooks plunge the crudités into bowls of ice water, but that is a huge bother, and you can easily run out of ice—something to be avoided during a holiday. If you are cooking a number of vegetables, start with the most mild-tasting vegetable first, as the vegetables will leach some flavor into the cooking water. Using a large wire skimmer, transfer them from the water to the colander, and keep the water boiling to cook subsequent batches.
Drain the vegetables well. Pat them completely dry with paper towels, or your crisp vegetables could become soggy. As added insurance against waterlogging, wrap them in paper towels before storing in self-sealing plastic bags. Refrigerate the crudités for up to 1 day.