After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the
paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any
remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on
the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to
any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still
wet, divide the wet material into eight pieces of about the same size.
After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover
it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal,
making sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct
tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a
shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can
be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives
off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to
increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply
throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or
crushed.
1 96.Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III by Exodus
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant.
However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make
sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass
container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which
would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the
sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly
faster than clean motor oil.
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made
very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring
household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed.
After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a
warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated.
There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept
in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The
crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off
the remaining water.
1 97.Black Powder III by Exodus
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons
and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or
safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the
other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem... it
can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must
be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black
powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS:
Potassium Nitrate (75 g) -or- Sodium Nitrate (75 g)
Sulfur (10 g)
Charcoal (15 g)
Distilled Water
EQUIPMENT:
Clay grinding bowl and clay grinder -or- wooden salad bowl and wooden spoon
Plastic Bags (3)
300-500 mL Beaker (1)
Coffee Pot or Heat Source
Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to
a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the
ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic
bag.
Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just
enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and
mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or
charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the
best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to
evaporate the water.
Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is
really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic
bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity.
1 98.NitroCellulose by Exodus
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black
powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than
black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as
outlined by the following procedure:
MATERIALS:
Cotton (Cellulose)
Concentrated Nitric Acid
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid
Distilled Water
EQUIPMENT:
Two (2) 200-300 mL Beakers
Funnel and Filter Paper
Blue Litmus Paper
Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of
concentrated nitric acid.
Immediately add 0« gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes.
Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in.
Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and
stored.
1 99.RDX II by Exodus
RDX, also called Cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the
most valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the
power of TNT, and is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be
set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than Mercury Fulminate or
Nitroglycerin, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.
NO
2
|
N
/ \ RDX MOLECULE
/ \
H C H C
/ 2 2
/ |
O N N--NO
2 \ / 2
\ /
\ /
CH
2
RDX can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier
to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of
Ammonium Nitrate.
MATERIALS:
Hexamine -or- Methenamine Fuel Tablets (50 g)
Concentrated Nitric Acid (550 mL)
Ammonium Nitrate
Distilled Water
Table Salt
Ice
EQUIPMENT:
500 mL Beaker
Glass Stirring Rod
Funnel and Filter Paper
Ice Bath Container (Plastic Bucket)
Centigrade Thermometer
Blue Litmus Paper
Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 mL of
concentrated Nitric Acid into the beaker.
When the acid has cooled to below 20øC, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to
the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30øC, or dire
consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
Drop the temperature below 0øC, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or
by creating a new ice bath. Ammonium Nitrate could be added to the old ice bath,
since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the
temperature below 0øC for at least twenty minutes.
Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to
melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and
test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper
remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe.
Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. RDX
is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% RDX (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and
0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to
desensitize the explosive.
HMX is a mixture of TNT and RDX; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. It is not as sensitive,
and is almost as powerful as straight RDX.
By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of RDX after step 5, it should be possible to
desensitize the RDX and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive
and powerful. Sodium or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is
sufficient to stabilize the RDX.
RDX detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1«5
g/cubic cm.
2 00.Black Gate BBS by Exodus
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2 01.ANFOS by Dean S.
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only
other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the
air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is
rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The
kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also
requires a large shockwave to set it off.
About ANFO
Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are mixtures of
Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful commercial explosive,
with its primary benefit being the fact that it is cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere
around 9-12 cents the pound. This is dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1
to 2 dollars the pound. To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a
bulk truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (that's pellets to most of
the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of some sort,
preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to distinguish treated AN
explosive from untreated oxidizer.
ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive to detonation.
Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. Booster charges must be used
to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters include sticks of various dynamites, small pours
of water gel explosives, dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast
explosive. The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water
susceptible. It dissolves in it, or absorbs it from the atmosphere, and becomes quite
worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with borehole liners, and still must
be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low density, somewhere around .85. This means