The Audacity of Hops: The History of America's Craft Beer Revolution (64 page)

“A crude and primitive, old brewery”
Ken Grossman,
Beyond the Pale: The Sierra Nevada Brewery Story
(Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2013). This quotation was taken from an advanced, unpaginated copy shared with the author.

Anchor was still just getting by
Ibid.; Sullivan, “Head of Steam.”

Most of Anchor's local accounts
A. Richard Immel, “Snatched from Extinction,”
Wall Street Journal,
January 2, 1975.

That new Anheuser-Busch brewery
“Watch It Made in the U.S.A.,” webpage on touring the Merrimack Anheuser-Busch brewery,
www.factorytour.com/tours/anheuser-busch-merrimack.cfm
.

Schlitz brewery details
“Schlitz Dedicates Carolina Brewery,”
Milwaukee Journal,
May 8, 1970, 27.

It worked so efficiently
David C. Berliner, “Employees Bitter Over Schlitz Closing in Brooklyn,”
New York Times,
February 18, 1973, 150, column 1.

9,600,000 new cars
Census Bureau, economic indicators, 1900-2002
www.census.gov/statab/hist/HS-45.pdf
;
www.census.gov/statab/hist/HS-40.pdf
.

A record 13.3 million TV sets
Gene Smith, “Appliance Sales: What Slump?,”
New York Times,
March 8, 1970, section 3,
page 1
, column 1.

More than 60 million households
Paul B. Johnson, “Computer Age Causes Shift in TV Industry,”
High Point (NC) Enterprise,
December 12, 2011.

Sales of the countertop microwave
Southwest Museum of Engineering, Communications and Computation website,
www.smecc.org/
.

The first 200 cases of Anchor rolled
Dave Burkhart at Anchor, e-mail message to the author, February 1, 2012.

Maytag-Saccani conversation
Sullivan, “Head of Steam.”

Maytag still refused to advertise
Immel, “Snatched from Extinction.”

Maytag likened such brewing advice
Ibid.

There were a few such bottles
Carpenter.

“Consistently marvelous stuff”
Sullivan, “Head of Steam.”

Lite Up Ahead

Details of the Murphy-Weissman dinner; “Murphy was right”
Rob Walker, “Let There Be Lite,”
New York Times,
December 29, 2002.

The thorough fermentation
Michael Jackson's Beer Hunter website:
www.beerhunter.com
. The site is maintained by Stan Hieronymus.

Miller sued successfully Wall Street Journal,
November 3, 1975, 19, column 2.

Gablinger's Diet Beer, developed
Mary Rourke, “Joseph L. Owades, 86; Created 1st Low-Calorie Beer, Became a Consultant to Microbrewers,”
Los Angeles Times,
December 22, 2005.

“Not only did no one want to try”
Adam Bernstein, “Joseph Owades Dies at 86; the Father of Light Beer,”
Washington Post,
December 21, 2005, B11.

Meister Brau had been
Ibid.

“There was a woman”
Walker, “Let There Be Lite.”

To nearly a quarter of a billion dollars
Paul Gibson, “The George Weissman Road Show,”
Forbes,
November 10, 1980, 179. $250 million adjusted for inflation from 1978 dollars to 2010.

The exclusive beer spots
Robert Flaherty, “We Missed the Boat … We Were Unsmarted,”
Forbes,
August 7, 1978, 36-38.

$4.6 billion Economist,
“And Then There Were Five,” July 22, 1978, 36. $4.6 billion adjusted for inflation from 1977 dollars to 2010.

“Brewed Through a Horse”

Who had for years
Fred Eckhardt,
Amateur Brewer
6, Summer 1979.

Newsletter excerpt
Maltose Falcons newsletter, February 1978,
www.maltosefalcons.com/brews/1978/197802
.

Elhardt history
“Maltose Falcons' History,” Maltose Falcons website,
http://www.maltosefalcons.com/content/about-falcons
.

With a borrowed $500
Byron Burch, interview with the author, January 6, 2012.

Who hosted its meetings
Maltose Falcons website; John Daume, interview with the author, December 28, 2011.

Not just generosity on Maytag's part
Burch.

“Tied to the fact”
“A Progress Report on Consumer Issues,”
U.S. News & World Report,
October 27, 1975, 26.

“Other homesteading activities”
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

Something that made people happy
Charlie Papazian, interview with the author, July
13, 2010. Papazian e-mailed the author recording files on this date in response to e-mailed questions.

“Go to hell”
Mike Royko, “Big Taste Test Is Brewing,”
Chicago Daily News,
July 6, 1973. The author acknowledges the Newberry Library's assistance in locating these Royko columns.

Judges' reactions
Mike Royko, “Worst, Best by Taste Test,”
Chicago Daily News,
July 9, 1973.

The 116-year-old brewery
Don Russell, “Newspaperman Mike Royko's Beer Ratings Caught on Nationwide,”
Philadelphia Daily News,
November 3, 2011, 35; Jerry Apps,
Breweries of Wisconsin
(Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 2005), 147.

The Most Influential Beer

Porter idea and schedule
Carpenter; official brewery timeline from Anchor.

Described by one leading critic
Garrett Oliver in
The Brewmaster's Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food
(New York: HarperCollins, 2003), 127.

No US-grown hops were considered
John Segal Jr., interview with the author, December 29, 2011.

Details on hops, including where they grow
Stan Hieronymus, e-mail message to the author, January 10, 2012. New York State was the nation's largest hops producer in the nineteenth century, before mold and Prohibition ruined the industry (it has recently begun to recover). Hops are usually used in pellet form, rather than flower, by commercial brewers.

Maytag's decision
Carpenter.

Details on the birth of the Cascade hop
Segal (John Segal Sr. died in 2004); Thomas Shellhammer and Alfred Haunold, “Cascade (hop),”
The Oxford Companion to Beer
(New York: Oxford University Press, 2012), 226-27; “How Adolph Coors Helped Launch the Most Popular US Aroma Hop and the Craft Beer Revolution,”
In Hop Pursuit
(blog), January 25, 2010,
http://inhoppursuit.blogspot.com/2010/01/cascade-how-adolph-coors-helped-launch.html
.

First bottles on June 26
Author's e-mail exchange with Dave Burkhart; official brewery timeline.

Maytag didn't think
NPR interview with Maytag, accessed June 12, 2012.

More than 70 million cases
Philip H. Dougherty,
New York Times,
May 27, 1977, section 4, 6, column 3.

Something had happened
Carpenter.

Chez McAuliffe

Situation just as he had predicted
McAuliffe, December 18; Julie Johnson, “Pull Up a Stool with Jack McAuliffe,”
All About Beer,
September 2011.

Canadian or European brands
William J. Schmick Jr., “Homemade Imports,”
Forbes,
October 15, 1977, 33.

“Good and beautiful products”
Craig Claiborne, “Cuisine Bourgeoise Out West,”
New York Times,
June 3, 1981, C1.

Marin French Cheese Company details
Johnson, “Pull Up a Stool.”

Biographies of Stern and Zimmerman
Suzy Stern Denison, interview with the author, January 7, 2012.

”History is important”
McAuliffe, December 18.

“Vacuum cleaner of information”
Lewis, December 1.

Details on the New Albion construction and layout
McAuliffe, December 18; Don Barkley, interview with the author, January 3, 2012. McAuliffe also generously furnished the author with photos from that time period.

“Consecration of the New Albion Brewery”; “you telephone”
Marketing material provided by McAuliffe to the author, including an invitation to the consecration.

The Bard of Beer

Had his first beer
Stan Hieronymus, “Michael Jackson Drank Here: 25 Historic Beer Sites,”
All About Beer,
March 2005.

First Trappist ale tasting
Daniel Shelton, “Michael Jackson, The Beer Hunter—Interview Preview,” August 7, 2007, accessed on YouTube,
www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLohwMW7qjU
.

“His Rubicon”
Jay R. Brooks, “The King of Beer Writers,”
Beer Connoisseur,
Spring 2011, 15.

“[Jackson] invented the expression”
Ibid., 16.

Coverage of American Beers
Michael Jackson,
The World Guide to Beer
(New York: Ballantine, 1978), 202-15.

Robert Parker Jr.
William Rice, “An Ombudsman for the Wine Consumer,”
Washington Post,
September 28, 1978, E18.

Long Days, Longer Odds

Associated Press reporter visit
Robert McEwen, “American Style: The Best Brew,” Associated Press, December 26, 1977.

FDA and Michael Jacobson
Ogle, 267; Josh Rubin, “Gum Arabic,”
The Oxford Companion to Beer
(New York: Oxford University Press, 2012), 413.

The Reagan administration scotched
Judson O. Berkey, “The History of Alcoholic Beverage Labeling Regulation and Its Implications for a Health Claim on Wine Labels,” Harvard Law School, Winter Term 1998, 7-9.

Barkley-Lewis conversation and Barkley-McAuliffe conversation
Barkley.

PART II

Tipping Points

Papazian biography
Papazian.

Cadged and cobbled what they could
Ibid.

“The difference is gargantuan”; it might cost 31 cents
Murray Dubin, “Folks Who Brew Are Doing It at Home and Illegally,”
St. Petersburg (FL) Independent,
January 19, 1979, 7A.

The publicity around his arrest
Papazian.

Eckhardt in Portland didn't think about it
Eckhardt,
A Treatise on Lager Beers,
6.

Fritz Maytag in San Francisco
Burch.

“It's a dopey law”
Dubin.

Cranston biography
“Cranston, Alan,”
Biographical Directory of the United States Congress,
accessed January 3, 2012,
http://bioguide.congress.gov/scripts/biodisplay.pl?index=c000877
.

”A California homebrew curmudgeon”
Fred Eckhardt, “Craft Beer—State of the Union, 2010,”
All About Beer,
vol. 31, no. 6.

“The slower you would drink it”
“Homebrewers Want Tax Break,” Associated Press, June 10, 1976.

He proposed an amendment
Jim Luther, Associated Press, August 25, 1978, AM Cycle.

Bill excerpt
Public Laws Enacted During the Second Session of the 95th Congress, 1255-56.

He wanted a change
Papazian.

“Where anyone could teach”
“Kakes Studios Has It's [sic] Roots,” accessed January 5, 2012,
www.kakesstudios.org/profile.html
. Note: The studios were opened by a former teacher with the Community Free School.

The idea for
Zymurgy
magazine
Stan Hieronymus,
“Zymurgy:
AHA at the Beginning,” Appellation Beer website, August 2003, accessed January 6, 2012,
http://appellationbeer.com/blog/zymurgy-aha-at-the-beginning/
.

A newspaperman turned journalism professor
“Memorial, Karl F. Zeisler,” University of Michigan website, accessed January 5, 2012,
http://um2017.org/faculty-history/faculty/karl-f-zeisler/memorial
.

Henry King details
Joe Holley, “Henry B. King Dies at 84,”
Washington Post,
April 29, 2005, B07.

Excise tax details
Stan Hieronymus, “Henry King: Another King of Beers,”
New Brewer,
Fall 2004; reproduced at Appellation Beer website, accessed June 12, 2012,
http://appellationbeer.com/blog/henry-king-another-king-of-beers/
.

Zymurgy
mailing
Papazian; Charlie Papazian, “A Beer Milestone—American Homebrewers Association Turns 30,” Examiner.com, December 5, 2008,
www.examiner.com/article/a-beer-milestone-american-homebrewers-association-turns-30
.

“Small, High-Quality Food Places”

Stern-Barkley conversation; workday routine details
Barkley; Denison.

Upped production and requests from across the country
McAuliffe, December 18; Barkley. Media coverage at the time also suggests that New Albion was in demand beyond the Bay Area.

$150 a week and all he could drink
Barkley.

The company lost $6,000
“Profits Soar at New Albion Brewery,”
Brewers Digest,
October 1980, 56.

“It's just like cosmetics, or bread”
William Ristow and Michael E. Miller, “Brewing ‘Real Ale' Is a Yeasty Business,”
Washington Post,
July 9, 1978, G9.

The Bearded Young Man from Chico

The homebrews turned into dinner
Burch.

Grossman's biography
Grossman,
Beyond the Pale.

Trade show and Anchor visit
Ibid.; Burch.

Anchor's production
Chris Hartman, “The Alchemist of Anchor Steam,”
Inc.,
January 1, 1983.

Anchor's bottle runs
Ibid.

Chase & Sanborn coffee roaster
Tom McNichol, “Anchor Aweigh, Full Steam Ahead,”
Los Angeles Times Magazine,
March 10, 1996, 22.