The Boozy Baker: 75 Recipes for Spirited Sweets (2 page)

EGGS:
I use large eggs in all these recipes. Buy the freshest available.

FLOUR:
I used national-brand, all-purpose flour, such as Gold Medal, when testing these recipes. Use any all-purpose flour or unbleached all-purpose flour. For the recipes that call for cake flour, use any national brand, such as Swans Down.

SUGAR:
When a recipe calls for “sugar,” stick with white granulated cane sugar. Light and dark brown
sugars should be packed into the measuring cup or measuring spoon to ensure accuracy. In a pinch, substitute light brown sugar for dark and vice versa. Do not make any substitutions for confectioners’ sugar. For the cocktail recipes, I use superfine sugar, which dissolves faster than regular granulated sugar, or simple syrup. To make simple syrup, combine equal parts water and granulated sugar in a saucepan and simmer until the sugar dissolves.

COCOA POWDER:
I use natural unsweetened cocoa powder, as opposed to Dutch-processed, in these recipes. Any quality supermarket brand will do, such as Ghirardelli or Hershey’s.

CHOCOLATE:
Most of my recipes call for either bittersweet or semisweet chocolate. Use whichever you prefer (bittersweet is darker and semisweet has more sugar). When purchasing chocolate at the supermarket, I often reach for Ghirardelli, Hershey’s, or Baker’s (for unsweetened chocolate). Premium blends, such as Lindt and Valrhona, are excellent but expensive. If I know I’m going to be doing a lot of baking, I often prefer to buy in bulk. Stores like Trader Joe’s sell giant, one-pound chocolate bars at a discount.

When selecting white chocolate, make sure that it contains cocoa butter.

When a recipe calls for melted chocolate, such as the Raspberry Swirl Brownies or the Mocha Cookie Tart, always use chopped chocolate. Do not substitute chocolate chips, which contain stabilizers and won’t melt as smoothly.

NUTS:
Many of these recipes call for a cup or more of nuts. Since nuts are costly ingredients I prefer to buy them in bulk at specialty stores. They can go bad quickly—especially pecans and pistachios—so store leftovers in the freezer. To toast nuts, spread them in a single layer on an ungreased baking sheet. Toast in a 350°F oven for six to ten minutes.

VANILLA EXTRACT:
Always use pure vanilla extract. I know it costs a lot more than imitation varieties, but take a deep breath and just do it. Trust me. Look for brands labeled “Madagascar” or “Tahitian.” Some of these recipes call for vanilla beans, split and seeds scraped. The seeds add incredible flavor to ice creams and puddings—and the tiny black flecks are really pretty, too! If vanilla beans aren’t available, substitute a half a teaspoon of extract.

Simple Syrup

MAKES
1 CUP

½ cup water

½ cup granulated sugar

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to medium low. Simmer until the sugar dissolves entirely, 5 to 10 minutes.

THE ALCOHOL ALPHABET

AMARETTO:
Sweet, high-alcohol liqueur flavored with almonds.

APRICOT BRANDY:
Traditionally a brandy distilled from apricots. Many commercial brands are now made from brandy with added “apricot flavor.”

APPLEJACK:
Originally a very strong alcohol made from concentrated fermented apples, but now the term more commonly refers to apple-flavored brandy.

ARMAGNAC:
A premium brandy from the Armagnac region in southwest France.

BEER:
An alcoholic beverage brewed from malted barley and flavored with hops. Available in a range of styles from light (pilsners, ales) to dark (porters, stouts).

BITTERS:
Not technically alcoholic, bitters are a highly concentrated mixture of aromatic plants and herbs used to flavor many cocktails.

BOURBON:
Whiskey distilled from at least 51 percent corn and aged in oak barrels.

BRANDY:
Liquor made from distilled wine or fermented fruit.

CALVADOS:
High-quality apple brandy from Normandy, France.

CAMPARI:
Bitter Italian aperitif, bright red in color, made from a secret blend of herbs and plants.

CHAMPAGNE:
Sparkling wine produced in the Champagne region of France. Less expensive substitutions are Spanish Cava or Italian Prosecco.

CIDER:
Beverage made from fermented apple juice. Usually relatively low in alcohol (about 3 percent ABV).

COFFEE LIQUEUR:
Sweet, high-alcohol liqueur flavored with coffee.

COGNAC:
Premium brandy from the Cognac region of France.

COINTREAU:
Premium, colorless liqueur flavored with orange. Less expensive varieties are labeled as Triple Sec.

CRÈME DE BANANE:
Highly sweetened liqueur flavored with banana.

CRÈME DE CACAO:
Dark or light sweet liqueur with chocolate flavors.

CRÈME DE CASSIS:
Ruby-colored liqueur flavored with black currant.

CRÈME DE MENTHE:
Peppermint-flavored liqueur available in both clear and green varieties.

DOMAINE DE CANTON:
French liqueur made from ginger-infused cognac.

FRAMBOISE:
Brandy or liqueur made from raspberries.

FRANGELICO:
Sweet, high-alcohol liqueur flavored with hazelnuts.

GIN:
Liquor usually made primarily from corn and flavored with juniper berries.

GRAND MARNIER:
French liqueur made from cognac and flavored with orange.

IRISH CREAM LIQUEUR:
Thick, rich liqueur made from Irish whiskey, cream, and sugar.

JÄGERMEISTER:
German liqueur with strong herbal and licorice flavors.

KIRSCH:
Clear, cherry-flavored brandy.

LIMONCELLO:
Sweet, bright yellow lemon liqueur from Southern Italy.

NOCELLO:
Sweet, high-alcohol liqueur flavored with walnuts.

OUZO:
Sweet anise-flavored aperitifs from Greece.

PISCO:
Peruvian or Chilean liquor made from grapes. “Regular” pisco is clear and mild in flavor, “reserve” pisco is darker in color and has a woody, slightly smoky flavor.

POMEGRANATE LIQUEUR:
The most widely available brand of pomegranate liqueur is Palma, which is a sweet and tart blend of pomegranate juice, vodka, and a splash of tequila.

RUM:
Liquor distilled from fermented sugarcane available in white and dark varieties. White rum has a light taste and is available in flavored varieties, such as coconut. Dark rum has a deeper, caramel flavor and is often aged. The majority of rums are produced around the Caribbean.

RYE:
Liquor made from at least 51 percent rye grain and aged in oak.

SAKE:
Japanese rice wine.

SAUTERNES:
French dessert wine made from semillon, muscadelle, and sauvingnon blanc grapes that have been infected with “noble rot,” a beneficial mold that causes grapes to shrivel and retain intense flavor.

SCHNAPPS:
Clear, sweetened, and highly alcoholic, flavored with spices or fruits.

SCOTCH WHISKEY:
Scottish whisky made from grain and malt, and divided into two major categories: single and blend. Single malt scotch is a product of one distillery; blended scotch is made from whisky from multiple distilleries.

SOUTHERN COMFORT:
Sweet whiskey from the American South flavored with fruit and spices.

TEQUILA:
Mexican liquor distilled from the mezcal plant. Gold tequila is aged in oak for at least two years.

VODKA
: High-proof alcohol, colorless and with little taste, distilled from fermented grains such as rye or wheat.

WHISKEY:
General term for alcohol distilled from fermented grains. At least 80 proof, most whiskeys are aged in oak.

WINE:
Alcoholic beverage made from fermented grape juice. Sweet wines, such as port, are fortified with brandy.

HAVE YOUR CAKE
AND DRINK IT TOO

There was a bakery in Massachusetts,
where I grew up, that made the most delicious yellow butter cake I have ever tasted. It was a single square layer frosted with white buttercream and decorated at the corners with blue flowers. Scrawled across it were the words “Best Wishes.” The cake was supposed to be served at a graduation or a communion. I’m not exactly sure how or why my father started buying it for everyday weeknight desserts, but it quickly became a family staple.

“What’s for dinner?” my brother and I would ask, dumping our backpacks by the front door.

“Spaghetti and Best Wishes Cake,” my mother would reply.

Eating an “occasion” cake on a random Tuesday night may seem a little strange, but it taught me two important lessons. First, when it comes to dessert, there are no rules. Craving a pumpkin layer cake in the middle of July? Go for it. Randomly feeling festive? Bake a Champagne chiffon cake. There is no reason not to indulge a whim.

Second, the best desserts have a sense of humor and, often, a story behind them. It doesn’t matter if the layers are a bit lopsided, or if your cheesecake comes out with a
crack or two. As long as you serve big pieces and say brightly, “I made it myself,” everyone will love it.

Of course, it also never hurts to announce, “There’s booze in it, too!” Which is why I’ve saturated these recipes with everything from brandy and beer to sake and cinnamon schnapps. As an added bonus, the alcohol actually improves the flavors with time. Many of these cakes (especially the loaves and single layers) taste even more delicious the day after they are baked, making them perfect do-ahead desserts.

Here are a few tips for cake baking success. Make sure your ingredients—especially the butter—are at room temperature before you begin preparing a recipe. Chilly eggs, milk, and butter can lead to a lumpy cake. To soften butter in a hurry, dice it into small chunks and leave it on the counter for 15 minutes. When creaming butter and sugar, beat the mixture for a full 2 to 3 minutes. It may look well combined after only a few seconds, but your cake will be lighter and fluffier if you take the extra time. Invest in a box of plain wooden toothpicks and keep them close to your oven. (I stash mine next to my potholders and oven mitts.) There is no better tool for testing if a cake is done. Lastly, be patient while your cake is cooling. Never try to immediately remove it from the pan as it will likely crumble and tear.

Fig and Orange Cake with Ouzo Glaze

M
AKES
8
TO
10
SERVINGS

W
HO BRINGS OUZO TO A CASUAL HOUSE PARTY
instead of wine or a six-pack of beer? I have no idea which of my friends gave me a bottle of this potent licorice-flavored Greek liquor, but I owe them many thanks. Unsure of what to do with the leftovers, I came up with this recipe, which is the first cake I ever baked with booze.

If the figs seem dry, plump them in a bit of ouzo before adding them to the cake. Then use the drained ouzo to make a cocktail with tonic water and a squeeze of fresh orange juice.

FOR THE CAKE:

1 cup all-purpose flour

¾ cup cake flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 teaspoons ouzo

Freshly grated zest of one large orange

1 cup chopped dried figs

FOR THE GLAZE:

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

2 tablespoons ouzo

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9×5-inch loaf pan with butter or nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and grease the paper. Dust the pan with flour and tap out the excess.

TO MAKE THE CAKE
,
whisk together the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl.

In a large bowl, beat the butter with an electric mixer until creamy, about 2 minutes. Add half of the sugar and beat to combine. Add the rest of the sugar and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating to incorporate after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Beat in the vanilla extract, ouzo, and the orange zest.

Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat at low speed just until blended. Fold the figs into the batter with a wooden spoon.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan for 15 minutes.

TO MAKE THE GLAZE
,
combine the confectioners’ sugar with the ouzo in a medium bowl and whisk until smooth.

Remove the cake from the pan and place it on a wire rack set over a large plate or a baking sheet. Spoon the ouzo glaze over the cake and allow it to cool completely before serving.

SHAKE IT UP:
Substitute Pernod, arrack (an anise-flavored liquor from the Middle East), or absinthe for the ouzo.

Green Tea and Banana Cake with Sake Syrup

M
AKES
8
TO
12
SERVINGS

A
LOT OF THE TRENDY SUSHI RESTAURANTS
in my neighborhood serve fancy fusion rolls with ingredients like mango and papaya. The delicate flavors commonly associated with Japanese cuisine (and Japanese wine) pair especially well with tropical fruits. Here, I’ve given a traditional banana loaf cake an Eastern twist with fragrant green tea powder and a floral sake glaze.