The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (184 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
A breaded coating can be just the thing to give lean, bland pork chops a flavor boost—but not when it turns gummy and flakes off the meat. Using boneless chops was fast and easy. Cornstarch formed an ultra-crisp sheath. Buttermilk brought a lighter texture and tangy flavor to the breading, and minced garlic and mustard perked up the breading’s flavor. Crushed cornflakes added a craggy texture to the pork chops, especially once we added cornstarch to them before dredging the meat. Finally, to ensure our breading adhered to the meat, we lightly scored the chops before coating them, and then gave the breaded chops a short rest before adding them to the pan.
SERVES 4
We prefer natural to enhanced pork (pork that has been injected with a salt solution to increase moistness and flavor) for this recipe. Don’t let the chops drain on the paper towels for longer than 30 seconds, or the heat will steam the crust and make it soggy. You can substitute ³⁄
4
cup store-bought cornflake crumbs for the whole cornflakes. If using crumbs, omit the processing step and mix the crumbs with the cornstarch, salt, and pepper.
²⁄ | cup cornstarch |
1 | cup buttermilk |
2 | tablespoons Dijon mustard |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
3 | cups cornflakes |
Salt and black pepper | |
8 | (3- to 4-ounce) boneless pork chops, ¹⁄ |
²⁄ | cup vegetable oil |
Lemon wedges |
1.
Place ¹⁄
3
cup cornstarch in shallow dish or pie plate. In second shallow dish, whisk buttermilk, mustard, and garlic until combined. Process cornflakes, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon pepper, and remaining ¹⁄
3
cup cornstarch in food processor until cornflakes are finely ground, about 10 seconds. Transfer cornflake mixture to third shallow dish.
2.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Cut ¹/₁₆-inch-deep slits on both sides of chops, spaced ¹⁄
2
inch apart, in crosshatch pattern. Season chops with salt and pepper. Dredge 1 chop in cornstarch; shake off excess. Using tongs, coat with buttermilk mixture; let excess drip off. Coat with cornflake mixture; gently pat off excess. Transfer coated chop to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and repeat with remaining chops. Let coated chops stand for 10 minutes.
3.
Heat ¹⁄
3
cup oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Place 4 chops in skillet and cook until golden brown and crisp, 2 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip chops and continue to cook until second side is golden brown, crisp, and chops register 145 degrees, 2 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer chops to paper towel–lined plate and let drain 30 seconds on each side. Transfer to clean wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet, then transfer to oven to keep warm. Discard oil in skillet and wipe clean with paper towels. Repeat process with remaining oil and pork chops. Serve with lemon wedges.
Combine 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons ground cumin, 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons chili powder, ³⁄
4
teaspoon ground coriander, ¹⁄
8
teaspoon ground cinnamon, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon red pepper flakes in bowl. Omit black pepper; coat chops with spice rub after seasoning with salt in step 2.
Combine 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons black pepper, 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons white pepper, ³⁄
4
teaspoon coriander, ³⁄
4
teaspoon ground cumin, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon red pepper flakes, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon ground cinnamon in bowl. Omit black pepper and coat chops with spice rub after seasoning with salt in step 2.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Thin boneless chops often cook up dry and bland, but their convenience is enticing. For moist chops with a pronounced sear and moist, juicy interior, we determined that pan-searing was the best method. For flavor, we decided to add a glaze. To prevent the chops from drying out, we seared them on just one side until they were well browned, added the glaze mixture, then gently “poached” the chops in the glaze. This approach helped the chops retain moisture and reduced the glaze to the right consistency.
SERVES 4
If your chops are on the thinner side, check their internal temperature after the initial sear. If they are already at the 145-degree mark, remove them from the skillet and allow them to rest, tented loosely with aluminum foil, for 5 minutes, then add the pork juices and glaze ingredients to the skillet and proceed with step 3. If your chops are closer to 1 inch thick, you may need to increase the simmering time in step 2.
¹⁄ | cup distilled white vinegar or cider vinegar |
¹⁄ | cup packed light brown sugar |
¹⁄ | cup apple cider or apple juice |
2 | tablespoons Dijon mustard |
1 | tablespoon soy sauce |
Pinch cayenne pepper | |
4 | (5- to 7-ounce) boneless pork chops, ¹⁄ |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | tablespoon vegetable oil |
1.
Combine vinegar, sugar, cider, mustard, soy sauce, and cayenne in bowl; mix thoroughly and set aside. Pat chops dry with paper towels. Cut 2 slits, about 2 inches apart, through outer layer of fat and silver skin. Season chops with salt and pepper.
2.
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add chops to skillet and cook until well browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Turn chops and cook 1 minute longer; transfer chops to plate and pour off any oil in skillet. Return chops to skillet, browned side up, and add glaze mixture; cook over medium heat until chops register 145 degrees, 5 to 8 minutes. Off heat, transfer chops to clean platter, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes.
3.
When chops have rested, add any accumulated juices to skillet and set over medium heat. Simmer, whisking constantly, until glaze is thick and color of dark caramel (heatproof spatula should leave wide trail when dragged through glaze), 2 to 6 minutes. Return chops to skillet; turn to coat both sides with glaze. Transfer chops back to platter, browned-side up, and spread remaining glaze over chops. Serve.
Toast 1 teaspoon sesame seeds in small dry skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until lightly browned and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes; set aside in bowl. Substitute ¹⁄
2
cup rice vinegar for white vinegar, omit cider, and add 3 tablespoons each orange juice and mirin and 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger to glaze ingredients. In step 3, stir another 2 teaspoons rice vinegar into glaze before returning chops to skillet. Before serving, garnish chops with reserved sesame seeds and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil.
Toast ³⁄
4
teaspoon caraway seeds in small dry skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Chop seeds coarse and set aside. Substitute ¹⁄
3
cup beer for cider, reduce soy sauce to 2 teaspoons, and add 3 tablespoons whole grain mustard (along with Dijon mustard), 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme, and reserved caraway seeds to glaze ingredients. Omit cayenne.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Stuffed pork chops are rarely well executed, typically crammed full of a soggy bread stuffing. What we were after was our favorite pork chop—thick and juicy, seared crusty brown on the outside—enhanced by a flavorful stuffing. First, we had to find the right chop. The perfect choice turned out to be the rib chop, which has an unbroken eye of meat into which a wide pocket can be cut with a sharp paring knife. We then developed stuffing mixtures that incorporated enough moisture, fat, and assertive flavors to enhance the lean, mild pork. As for cooking them, we got the best results when we seared the brined, stuffed chops in a hot skillet and transferred them to a preheated baking sheet to finish cooking in the oven.
See “CUTTING A PORK CHOP POCKET” illustrations that follow recipe.
SERVES 4
If the pork is enhanced (injected with a salt solution), do not brine in step 1, and season with salt in step 2. Prepare the stuffing while the chops brine. (The stuffing can also be made a day in advance, but it must be microwaved just to room temperature before being packed into the chops.) One stuffed chop makes for a very generous serving. If desired, remove the meat from the bone and cut it into ¹⁄
2
-inch slices to serve 6.
4 | (12- to 14-ounce) bone-in pork rib chops, 1¹⁄ |
3 | tablespoons salt |
3 | tablespoons packed light brown sugar |
1 | recipe stuffing (recipes follow) |
Pepper | |
2 | teaspoons vegetable oil |
1.
Using sharp paring knife, cut 1-inch opening into side of each chop, then cut pocket for stuffing by swinging blade through middle of chop. Dissolve salt and sugar in 1¹⁄
2
quarts cold water in large container. Submerge chops in brine, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
2.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 450 degrees. Remove chops from brine and thoroughly pat dry with paper towels. Place one-quarter of stuffing in pocket of each chop—enlarge pocket opening to 1-inch, if necessary. Trim reserved orange (or lemon) wedges from stuffing recipe to 2-inch lengths; insert one orange (or lemon) wedge into each pocket to contain stuffing. Season chops with pepper. (Chops can be stuffed and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead.)
3.
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Arrange chops in skillet and cook without moving chops until well browned, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip chops and cook until well browned on second side, 2 to 3 minutes longer.
4.
Using tongs, transfer chops to preheated baking sheet in oven; cook until stuffing registers 140 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping chops halfway through cooking time. Transfer chops to platter, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Serve.