The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (210 page)

MAKES ABOUT
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CUP

The richness of the cream and butter is balanced well by the bolder ingredients, like the cayenne and white wine vinegar, in this recipe.

Combine wine, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and shallot in small saucepan and bring to boil over high heat. Lower heat to medium-high and simmer until mixture is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add cream and continue to simmer until mixture is reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer into small bowl; wipe out saucepan. Return mixture to saucepan set over medium heat. Whisk in 2 pieces of butter until melted. Continue adding butter, 2 pieces at a time, until all butter has been incorporated. Stir in salt and cayenne; cover and keep warm.

MAKES ABOUT
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Watch the butter carefully, as it can go from brown to burnt quickly.

Heat butter in small saucepan over medium heat and cook, swirling pan constantly, until butter turns dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 4 to 5 minutes. Add shallot and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove pan from heat and stir in parsley, thyme, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover to keep warm.

MAKES ABOUT
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CUP

Watch the butter carefully, as it can go from brown to burnt quickly.

Heat butter in small saucepan over medium heat and cook, swirling pan constantly, until butter turns dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 4 to 5 minutes. Add tomato, ginger, lemon juice, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Season with salt to taste. Cover to keep warm.

MAKES ABOUT
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CUP

We like the fruity, peppery flavor extra-virgin olive oil adds to this vinaigrette, but it is overpowering on its own so we use half vegetable oil, half extra-virgin olive oil here.

Combine orange juice, lime juice, shallot, cilantro, and pepper flakes in medium bowl. Slowly whisk in vegetable and olive oils. Season with salt to taste.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

A good recipe for pan-seared shrimp is hard to find. Of the handful of recipes we uncovered, the majority resulted in shrimp that were either dry and flavorless or pale, tough, and gummy. We wanted shrimp that were well caramelized but still moist, briny, and tender. Brining peeled shrimp inhibited browning so instead, we seasoned the shrimp with salt, pepper, and sugar, which brought out their natural sweetness and aided in browning. We cooked the shrimp in batches in a large, piping-hot skillet and then paired them with thick, glazelike sauces with assertive ingredients and plenty of acidity as a foil for the shrimp’s richness.

SERVES 4

Either a nonstick or a traditional skillet will work for this recipe, but a nonstick will simplify cleanup.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Meanwhile, toss shrimp, salt, pepper, and sugar in medium bowl. Add half of shrimp to pan in single layer and cook until spotty brown and edges turn pink, about 1 minute. Off heat, flip each shrimp using tongs and allow shrimp to continue to cook in skillet until all but very center is opaque, about 30 seconds. Transfer shrimp to large plate. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining shrimp. After second batch has cooked off heat, return first batch to skillet and toss to combine. Cover skillet and let sit until shrimp are cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

Beat 3 tablespoons softened unsalted butter with fork in small bowl until light and fluffy. Stir in 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 minced garlic clove, and ¹⁄
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teaspoon salt until combined. Add butter mixture to skillet when returning first batch of shrimp to skillet. Serve with lemon wedges if desired.

Stir together 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger, 2 teaspoons water, 1¹⁄
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teaspoons soy sauce, and 2 scallions, sliced thin, in small bowl. Substitute ¹⁄
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teaspoon red pepper flakes for pepper and add hoisin mixture to skillet when returning first batch of shrimp to skillet.

Stir together 2 tablespoons lime juice, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, 1¹⁄
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teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce and 2 teaspoons adobo sauce, and 4 teaspoons packed brown sugar in small bowl. Add chipotle mixture to skillet when returning first batch of shrimp to skillet.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Restaurant versions of shrimp scampi run the gamut from batter-dipped, deep-fried shrimp drenched in bad oil to boiled shrimp and tomato sauce on a bed of pasta. We wanted shrimp in a light sauce, smacking of garlic and lemon, garnished with parsley. Cooking the shrimp and garlic quickly was the key to avoiding overcooked, tough shrimp and bitter-tasting garlic. We first cooked the shrimp in a large skillet in batches and set them aside, then cooked the garlic in butter. Vermouth and lemon juice added the right punch. Adding the parsley at the end of cooking ensured it kept its fresh flavor.

See “DEVEINING SHRIMP” illustrations that follow recipe.

SERVES 4

Use the cayenne sparingly; you are after only the faintest hint of spiciness. Serve with bread to sop up the remaining juices from both plate and skillet.

1.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add 1 pound shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until just opaque, about 1 minute; transfer to medium bowl. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining 1 pound shrimp, transferring shrimp to bowl with first batch.

2.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in now-empty skillet over medium-low heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Off heat, add lemon juice and vermouth. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, add parsley and cayenne, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Return shrimp and accumulated juices to skillet. Toss to combine; serve immediately.

Because it is spicy, this dish is best served with white rice.

Add 1 teaspoon grated orange zest and ¹⁄
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teaspoon red pepper flakes to skillet with garlic in step 2. Omit cayenne and substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro for parsley.

This variation is deeply flavorful but has slightly less heat than either of the other two versions.

Add 2 teaspoons paprika and 1 teaspoon ground cumin to skillet with garlic in step 2. Omit cayenne and substitute 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar for lemon juice.