The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (267 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Our ideal banana bread is simple enough—a moist, tender loaf that really tastes like bananas. We discovered that doubling the dose of bananas in our favorite test recipe was both a blessing and a curse. The abundance of fruit made for intense banana flavor, but the weight and moisture sank the loaf and gave it a cakelike structure. Looking to add banana flavor without moisture, we placed our bananas in a glass bowl and microwaved them for a few minutes, then transferred the fruit to a sieve to drain. We simmered the exuded banana liquid in a saucepan until it was reduced, then incorporated it into the batter. Brown sugar complemented the bananas better than granulated sugar, and vanilla worked well with the bananas’ faintly boozy, rumlike flavor, as did swapping out the oil for the nutty richness of butter. Toasted walnuts lent a pleasing crunch. As a final embellishment, we sliced a sixth banana and shingled it on top of the loaf. A final sprinkle of sugar helped the slices caramelize and gave the loaf an enticingly crunchy top.

See “SHINGLING THE LOAF” illustration that follows recipe.

SERVES 10

Be sure to use very ripe, heavily speckled (or even black) bananas in this recipe. This recipe can be made using 5 thawed frozen bananas; since they release a lot of liquid naturally, they can bypass the microwaving in step 2 and go directly into the fine-mesh strainer. Do not use a thawed frozen banana in step 4; it will be too soft to slice. Instead, simply sprinkle the top of the loaf with sugar. We developed this recipe using a loaf pan that measures 8¹⁄
₂
by 4¹⁄
₂
inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness 5 minutes earlier than advised in the recipe. The texture is best when the loaf is eaten fresh, but it can be stored (let cool completely first), covered tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days.

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 8¹⁄
₂
by 4¹⁄
₂
-inch loaf pan with vegetable oil spray. Whisk flour, baking soda, and salt together in large bowl.

2.
Place 5 bananas in separate bowl, cover, and microwave until bananas are soft and have released liquid, about 5 minutes. Transfer bananas to fine-mesh strainer over medium bowl and allow to drain, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes (you should have ¹⁄
₂
to ³⁄
₄
cup liquid).

3.
Transfer liquid to medium saucepan and cook over medium-high heat until reduced to ¹⁄
₄
cup, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir reduced liquid into bananas, and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Whisk in butter, eggs, brown sugar, and vanilla.

4.
Pour banana mixture into dry ingredients and stir until just combined, with some streaks of flour remaining. Gently fold in walnuts, if using. Scrape batter into prepared pan. Slice remaining banana diagonally into ¹⁄
₄
-inch-thick slices. Shingle banana slices on top of loaf in 2 rows, leaving 1¹⁄
₂
-inch-wide space down center to ensure even rise. Sprinkle granulated sugar evenly over loaf.

5.
Bake until toothpick inserted in center of loaf comes out clean, 55 to 75 minutes. Let loaf cool in pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto wire rack and let cool for 1 hour before serving.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

This simple bread is often subpar, too dense, or so overly sweetened that the contrast between the tart berries and what should be a slightly sweet cakelike bread is lost. We were looking for a crust that was golden brown and evenly thin all the way around and an interior texture that was somewhere between a dense breakfast bread and a light, airy cake. For the best texture, we used the quick-bread method of mixing, combining the liquid ingredients and dry ingredients separately, then stirring them together. Buttermilk lent a tangy flavor and moisture, while orange zest boosted flavor and added a hint of color.

SERVES 10

Fresh or frozen cranberries (not thawed) will work here. We prefer sweet, mild pecans in this bread, but walnuts can be substituted. Resist the urge to cut into the bread while it is hot out of the oven; the texture improves as it cools, making it easier to slice. To toast pecans, heat griddle over medium heat. Add pecans, chopped coarse; toast, shaking pan frequently, until nuts are fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. We developed this recipe using a loaf pan that measures 8¹⁄
₂
by 4¹⁄
₂
inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness 5 minutes earlier than advised in the recipe.

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease bottom of 8¹⁄
₂
by 4¹⁄
₂
-inch loaf pan. Stir together orange zest, orange juice, buttermilk, butter, and egg in small bowl. Whisk together flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in second large bowl. Stir liquid ingredients into dry ingredients with rubber spatula until just moistened. Gently stir in cranberries and pecans (do not overmix).

2.
Scrape batter into loaf pan and spread with rubber spatula into corners of pan. Bake until golden brown and toothpick inserted in center of loaf comes out clean, 55 to 75 minutes. Let loaf cool in pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto wire rack and let cool at least 1 hour before serving.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

The dense texture and unmitigated sweetness of most date breads are overwhelming. We wanted to make a quick bread rich in date and nut flavor, with a moist, tender texture. We first decided on the best mixing method—the quick-bread method gave us the loaves with the best texture (compact but not too dense), and they were the easiest to prepare. For the best flavor and proper tenderness, we chose all-purpose flour and one egg. Butter won out over oil, as it added lushness and unparalleled flavor, while oil contributed only a greasy feel. Buttermilk brought a tanginess that balanced the sweetness of the dates. Hard chunks of dates marred the bread’s texture; soaking them in hot water and baking soda softened the dates by breaking down their fibers. Adding the soaking liquid to the batter gave the bread even more flavor. Dark brown sugar complemented the flavor of the dates and gave our loaf an appealing color. Chopped toasted nuts added further flavor and some crunch.

SERVES 10

To make chopping the dates easier, coat the blade of your knife with a thin film of vegetable oil spray. Soaking the dates in boiling water and baking soda helps to soften their tough skins. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil, then measure out the desired amount. The test kitchen’s preferred loaf pan measures 8¹⁄
₂
by 4¹⁄
₂
inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness 5 minutes earlier than advised in the recipe.

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 8¹⁄
₂
by 4¹⁄
₂
-inch loaf pan.

2.
Stir dates, water, and baking soda together in medium bowl. Cover and set aside until dates have softened, about 30 minutes.

3.
Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt together in large bowl. In medium bowl, whisk brown sugar, buttermilk, melted butter, and egg together until smooth, then stir in date mixture until combined. Gently fold buttermilk mixture into flour mixture with rubber spatula until just combined (do not overmix). Gently fold in pecans.

4.
Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Bake until golden brown and toothpick inserted in center of loaf comes out with few crumbs attached, 55 to 60 minutes, rotating loaf pan halfway through baking.

5.
Let loaf cool in pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto wire rack and let cool for 1 hour before serving.