The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (302 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

When developing a recipe to reproduce this classic French cookie at home, we found the task surprisingly simple. We ground the almonds and sugar in a food processor, added egg whites and a little almond extract, and processed until the mixture became a stiff but cohesive dough. Next we dropped or piped the paste onto a parchment-lined sheet and baked them. The result was a recipe for macaroons that were moist and soft on the inside and both crunchy and chewy on the outside, with plenty of classic almond flavor.

MAKES 24 COOKIES

Macaroons must be baked on parchment paper. They will stick to an ungreased sheet and spread on a greased one. You need a slightly less stiff dough if piping the macaroons, so add water, as needed, to make a pipeable paste.

1.
Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 325 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

2.
Process almonds in food processor until ground, 1 minute. Add sugar; process 15 seconds longer. Add whites and extract; process just until paste forms. Scrape down bowl and process until stiff but cohesive, malleable paste (similar in consistency to marzipan or pasta dough) forms, about 5 seconds longer. If mixture is crumbly or dry, turn processor back on and add water by drops until proper consistency is reached.

3.
Working with 2 tablespoons of dough at a time, roll dough into balls and space 1¹⁄
₂
inches apart on prepared baking sheets.

4.
Bake until macaroons are golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes, switching and rotating baking sheets halfway through baking. Transfer macaroons, still on parchment (to prevent from tearing), to wire racks and let cool completely.

Make paste without water. Add 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest and process 10 seconds longer.

Roll paste into balls between palms. Dip each ball into 3 beaten egg whites, then roll in 2¹⁄
₂
cups pine nuts, lightly pressing with fingertips. Transfer cookies to baking sheet and flatten slightly with fingers, making 1-inch-wide buttons.

Decrease almonds to 1¹⁄
₂
cups and add 1 cup Dutch-processed cocoa and ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt along with sugar. Macaroons are done when they have cracked lightly across top.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Not that long ago, macaroons (cone-shaped cookies flavored with shredded coconut) were quite elegant and very popular. But today, they have deteriorated into lackluster mounds of beaten egg whites and coconut shreds or, at their worst, nothing more than a baked mixture of condensed milk and sweetened coconut. We set out to create a great coconut macaroon, with a pleasing texture and real, honest coconut flavor. After rounds of testing, we determined that unsweetened shredded coconut resulted in a less sticky, more appealing texture. But sweetened shredded coconut packed more flavor than the unsweetened coconut, so we decided to use both; together they worked very well in the cookie. To add one more layer of coconut flavor, we tried cream of coconut and hit the jackpot. As for the structure of our cookie, a few egg whites and some corn syrup ensured that the macaroons held together well and were moist and pleasantly chewy.

See “FORMING COCONUT MACAROONS” illustrations that follow recipe.

MAKES 48 COOKIES

Be sure to use cream of coconut (such as Coco López) and not coconut milk here. Unsweetened desiccated coconut is commonly sold in natural foods stores and Asian markets. If you are unable to find any, use all sweetened flaked or shredded coconut, but reduce the amount of cream of coconut to ¹⁄
₂
cup, omit the corn syrup, and toss 2 tablespoons cake flour with the coconut before adding the liquid ingredients. For larger macaroons, shape haystacks from a generous ¹⁄
₄
cup of batter and increase the baking time to 20 minutes.

1.
Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

2.
Whisk cream of coconut, corn syrup, egg whites, vanilla, and salt together in small bowl; set aside. Combine unsweetened and sweetened coconuts in large bowl; toss together, breaking up clumps with fingertips. Pour liquid ingredients over coconut and mix until evenly moistened. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.

3.
Working with 1 tablespoon of dough at a time, drop dough onto prepared baking sheets, spacing them 1 inch apart. Using moistened fingertips, form dough into loose haystacks. Bake until cookies are light golden brown, about 15 minutes, switching and rotating baking sheets halfway through baking.

4.
Let cookies cool on baking sheets until slightly set, about 2 minutes; transfer cookies to wire rack and let cool to room temperature.

Cool baked macaroons to room temperature; line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Chop 10 ounces semisweet chocolate; microwave 8 ounces chocolate at 50 percent power for 2 minutes. Stir chocolate and continue heating until melted, stirring once every additional minute. Stir in remaining 2 ounces of chocolate until smooth. Holding macaroon by its pointed top, dip bottom ¹⁄
₂
inch up sides in chocolate, scrape off excess, and place macaroon on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining macaroons. Refrigerate until chocolate sets, about 15 minutes.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Chewy and chocolaty, brownies should be a simple and utterly satisfying affair. But too often, brownies are heavy, dense, and remarkably low on chocolate flavor. We wanted old-fashioned brownies that had serious chocolate flavor. To get that tender texture and delicate chew, we shelved the all-purpose flour in favor of cake flour; a bit of baking powder further lightened the crumb. Getting the number of eggs just right prevented our brownies from being cakey or dry. As for chocolatiness, plenty of unsweetened chocolate provided maximum chocolate flavor—not too sweet, with profound chocolate notes. Nailing the baking time was essential—too little time in the oven and the brownies were gummy and underbaked, too much time and they were dry. Finally, for nut-lovers, we toasted pecans and topped the brownies with them just before baking; baked inside the brownies, they steam and get soft.

See “MAKING A FOIL SLING” illustrations that follow recipe.

MAKES 24 BROWNIES

Be sure to test for doneness before removing the brownies from the oven. If underbaked (the toothpick has batter, not just crumbs, clinging to it), the texture of the brownies will be dense and gummy; if overbaked (the toothpick comes out completely clean), the brownies will be dry and cakey. To melt the chocolate in a microwave, heat it at 50 percent power for 2 minutes. Stir the chocolate, add the butter, and continue heating until melted, stirring once every additional minute.

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Make foil sling by folding 2 long sheets of aluminum foil so that they are as wide as 13 by 9-inch baking pan (one 13-inch sheet and one 9-inch sheet). Lay sheets of foil in pan perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges of pan. Push foil into corners and up sides of pan, smoothing foil flush to pan. Grease foil and set aside.

2.
Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in medium bowl until combined; set aside.

3.
Melt chocolate and butter in medium heatproof bowl set over saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally, until smooth. Off heat, gradually whisk in sugar. Add eggs, one at a time, whisking after each addition, until thoroughly combined. Whisk in vanilla. Add flour mixture in 3 additions, folding with rubber spatula until batter is completely smooth and homogeneous.

4.
Transfer batter to prepared pan; spread batter into corners of pan and smooth surface. Sprinkle toasted nuts, if using, evenly over batter. Bake until toothpick inserted in center of brownies comes out with few moist crumbs attached, 30 to 35 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Let brownies cool in pan on wire rack to room temperature, about 2 hours. Remove brownies from pan using foil. Cut brownies into 2-inch squares and serve. (Brownies can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.)

To melt the chocolate in a microwave, heat it at 50 percent power for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir the chocolate, and continue heating until melted, stirring once every additional minute.

MINT FROSTING

CHOCOLATE GLAZE

1. FOR MINT FROSTING:
Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, beat butter and confectioners’ sugar at low speed until just incorporated, about 30 seconds, then increase speed to medium and beat until smooth and fluffy, about 1¹⁄
₂
minutes. Add 1 tablespoon milk and mint extract and continue to beat until combined, about 30 seconds, adding up to 1 additional tablespoon milk if necessary to achieve soft spreadable consistency. Using offset spatula, spread mint frosting evenly onto cooled brownies, cover with aluminum foil, and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

2. FOR CHOCOLATE GLAZE:
Microwave chocolate at 50 percent power for 1 to 2 minutes; stir, add butter, and continue heating until melted, stirring once every additional minute. Set aside to cool slightly, about 10 minutes.

3.
Pour chocolate glaze on frosted brownies; using offset spatula, spread glaze into even layer. Cover with foil and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. Remove brownies from pan using foil, cut into 2-inch squares, and serve. (Brownies can be stored in refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

Whisk egg yolks, sugar, and salt in small saucepan until combined. Whisk in butter, then gradually whisk in heavy cream and vanilla extract. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is fluffy, begins to thicken, and registers about 180 degrees, 8 to 12 minutes. Off heat, stir in coconut and pecans. Spread topping evenly onto cooled brownies, cover with aluminum foil, and refrigerate until set, about 2 hours. Remove brownies from pan using foil, cut into 2-inch squares, and serve. (Brownies can be stored in refrigerator for up to 3 days.)