The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (6 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
TIRED HERBS? GIVE ’EM A SOAK
We rarely use an entire bunch of herbs at once, and inevitably a few days later they are looking less-than-fresh and we have to throw them out and start all over. Is there a way to revive tired herbs? With a little research, we found that soaking herbs in water restores the pressure of the cell contents against the cell wall, causing them to become firmer as the dehydrated cells plump up. So, after purposely letting several bunches of parsley, cilantro, and mint sit in the refrigerator until they became limp, sorry-looking versions of their former selves, we tried bringing the herbs back to life by soaking them in tepid and cold water. We found that soaking herbs (stems trimmed) for 10 minutes in cold water perks them up better than tepid water. These herbs had a fresher look and an improved texture.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For a baba ghanoush that fulfills its potential—redolent with smoky eggplant flavor and brightened with garlic and lemon juice—we found we got the best results by following tradition and grilling the eggplant over a hot charcoal fire. The smokiness of the fire induced other ingredients to relate to one another in a more interesting way than if cooked using other methods. Nevertheless, we found we could get perfectly acceptable results by oven-roasting if grilling wasn’t convenient. No matter the method, it was critical to work with fresh eggplants and cook them until the flesh was almost sloshy; undercooked eggplant, while misleadingly soft to the touch, tasted spongy-green and remained unmoved by additional seasonings. To avoid a watery texture, we drained the eggplant of excess fluid. A few tests more tests proved that less is more with flavorings—we stuck with tahini, garlic, and lemon juice.
MAKES 2 CUPS
When buying eggplants, select those with shiny, taut, and unbruised skins and an even shape (eggplants with a bulbous shape won’t cook evenly). Grill until the eggplant walls have collapsed and the insides feel sloshy when pressed with tongs. We prefer to serve baba ghanoush only lightly chilled; if cold, let it stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes before serving. Baba ghanoush does not keep well, so plan to make it the day you want to serve it. Serve with pita bread, black olives, tomato wedges, or cucumber slices.
2 | pounds eggplant (about 2 large globe eggplants, 5 medium Italian eggplants, or 12 medium Japanese eggplants), |
2 | tablespoons tahini |
1 | tablespoon lemon juice |
1 | tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving |
1 | small garlic clove, minced |
Salt and pepper | |
2 | teaspoons chopped fresh parsley |
1A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
1B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium. (Adjust burners as needed to maintain grill temperature around 350 degrees.)
2.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Set eggplants on cooking grate and cook until skins darken and wrinkle on all sides and eggplants are uniformly soft when pressed with tongs, about 25 minutes for large globe eggplants, 20 minutes for Italian eggplants, and 15 minutes for Japanese eggplants, turning every 5 minutes and reversing direction of eggplants on grill with each turn. Transfer eggplants to rimmed baking sheet and cool 5 minutes.
3.
Set small colander over bowl. Trim top and bottom off each eggplant. Slit eggplants lengthwise and use spoon to scoop hot pulp from skins and place pulp in colander (you should have about 2 cups packed pulp); discard skins. Let pulp drain 3 minutes.
4.
Transfer pulp to food processor. Add tahini, lemon juice, oil, garlic, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon pepper. Process until mixture has coarse, choppy texture, about 8 pulses. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap flush with surface of dip, and refrigerate 45 to 60 minutes. Make trough in center of dip using large spoon and spoon olive oil into it. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, set eggplants on baking sheet and roast, turning every 15 minutes, until eggplants are uniformly soft when pressed with tongs, about 60 minutes for large globe eggplants, 50 minutes for Italian eggplants, and 40 minutes for Japanese eggplants. Cool eggplants on baking sheet 5 minutes, then follow recipe from step 3.
Sautéed onion gives the baba ghanoush a sweet, rich flavor.
Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in 8-inch skillet over low heat until shimmering; add 1 small onion, chopped fine, and cook, stirring occasionally, until edges are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir onion into dip after processing.
Replacing the tahini with mayonnaise makes this baba ghanoush pleasantly light and brings out the smoky flavor of charcoal-grilled eggplant.
Substitute 2 tablespoons mayonnaise for tahini.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For dips that would draw a crowd, we needed to develop a well-balanced, creamy base and choose a few fresh and assertive flavorings. For our creamy base, we tested mayonnaise, sour cream, yogurt, buttermilk, heavy cream, cottage cheese, and cream cheese. Two combinations made it across the finish line: mayonnaise with sour cream and mayonnaise with yogurt. Mayonnaise contributes the body, richness, and velvety texture sought after in a creamy dip, while both sour cream and yogurt heighten flavor. Yogurt had one problem, however. Right out of the container it was too slack and required draining to thicken it. We found that an overnight stay in the refrigerator in a fine-mesh sieve firmed up the yogurt perfectly. Add flavor-charged ingredients—the fewer the better—for maximum flavor that will stand up to the richness of the dairy products.
MAKES
1¹⁄
2
CUPS
Serve with crudités.
1 | cup mayonnaise |
¹⁄ | cup sour cream |
¹⁄ | cup grated Parmesan cheese |
1 | tablespoon lemon juice |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh parsley |
2 | garlic cloves, minced |
2 | anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl until smooth and creamy. Transfer dip to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until flavors are blended, at least 1 hour. Serve. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
MAKES
1¹⁄
2
CUPS
Serve with crudités.
1 | cup mayonnaise |
¹⁄ | cup sour cream |
3 | scallions, sliced thin |
2 | garlic cloves, minced |
1 | tablespoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce plus ¹⁄ |
1 | teaspoon grated lime zest plus 1 tablespoon juice |
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl until smooth and creamy. Transfer dip to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until flavors are blended, at least 1 hour. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
MAKES
1¹⁄
2
CUPS
Serve with crudités.
³⁄ | cup mayonnaise |
³⁄ | cup sour cream |
2 | scallions, sliced thin |
¹⁄ | cup prepared horseradish, squeezed of excess liquid |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh parsley |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl until smooth and creamy. Transfer dip to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until flavors are blended, at least 1 hour. Serve. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
MAKES ABOUT
1¹⁄
4
CUPS
Serve with crudités.
1 | cup plain whole-milk yogurt |
¹⁄ | cup mayonnaise |
3 | ounces feta cheese, crumbled (²⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh mint |
2 | scallions, sliced |
2 | teaspoons lemon juice |
1.
Place yogurt in fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth-lined colander set over bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 8 to 24 hours; discard liquid in bowl.
2.
Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth and creamy, about 30 seconds. Transfer dip to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until flavors are blended, at least 1 hour. Serve. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
MAKES
1¹⁄
2
CUPS
Serve with crudités.
³⁄ | cup mayonnaise |
³⁄ | cup sour cream |
¹⁄ | cup minced fresh parsley |
¹⁄ | cup minced fresh chives |
2 | tablespoons minced fresh tarragon |
1 | tablespoon lemon juice |
2 | garlic cloves, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl until smooth and creamy. Transfer dip to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until flavors are blended, at least 1 hour. Serve. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Serve with chips or crackers.
4 | slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄ |
³⁄ | cup sour cream |
³⁄ | cup mayonnaise |
1 | teaspoon lemon juice |
1 | teaspoon Worcestershire sauce |
2 | (6¹⁄ |
2 | scallions, sliced thin |
Salt and pepper | |
Cayenne pepper |
1.
Cook bacon in 8-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate.
2.
Whisk together sour cream, mayonnaise, lemon juice, and Worcestershire in medium bowl. Stir in minced clams, scallions, and bacon. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Transfer dip to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until flavors are blended, at least 1 hour. Serve. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)