The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (75 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA
When adding pesto to cooked pasta it is important to include 3 or 4 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water for proper consistency and even distribution.
3 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
1 | cup pecans |
7 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup fresh parsley leaves |
¹⁄ | cup grated Parmesan cheese |
1.
Toast garlic in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, until softened and spotty brown, about 8 minutes; when cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins. While garlic cools, toast nuts in now-empty skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until golden and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes.
2.
Process garlic, nuts, oil, and parsley in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to small bowl, stir in Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Pesto can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in bowl with plastic wrap or thin layer of oil covering surface.)
KEY TIPS TO PERFECT PASTA
We love pasta in the test kitchen. As a result, we’re pretty opinionated about the best way to cook it. Here’s what you need to know: When cooking pasta, make sure you have all the necessary ingredients and utensils assembled before you begin. You’ll need 4 quarts of water to cook 1 pound of dried pasta. Any less and the noodles may stick. Use a pot large enough to accommodate the water and pasta without boil-overs—we like an 8-quart pot. It’s crucial to properly season the cooking water—about 1 tablespoon table salt per 4 quarts water. Bring the water to a rolling boil before adding the salt and pasta and give it an immediate stir after adding the pasta to prevent sticking. And don’t add oil to the pot—oil will prevent sauce from sticking to the pasta.
When serving pasta, if a sauce is too thick, we thin it with a little reserved pasta cooking water. The trouble is, it’s easy to forget to save some water. As a reminder, we place a measuring cup in the colander. As for draining pasta, just give it a shake or two. You don’t want the pasta bone dry. The little bit of hot cooking water clinging to the pasta will help the sauce coat it. And if you’re using a large serving bowl for the pasta, place it underneath the colander while draining the pasta. The hot water heats up the bowl, which keeps the pasta warm longer.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Unaccustomed to the spotlight, lemon can turn temperamental in this quick-hit Italian classic—unless you provide it with the perfect costars. We wanted a dish bursting with bright, bracing lemon flavor, moistened with just enough fruity olive oil to coat each delicate strand. Starting with lemon flavor, we found the window for the right amount of juice per pound of pasta was extremely small, and if we leaned more to either side, the lemon flavor became either too tart or barely noticeable. To boost the lemon’s power without extra acidity, we added some grated zest to the sauce. As for the base of the sauce, we relied on an olive oil–cream sauce—the cream neutralized some of the acids in the juice while augmenting the oils responsible for the fruity, floral notes.
SERVES 4
Let the dish rest briefly before serving so the flavors develop and the sauce thickens.
1 | pound spaghetti |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling |
1 | shallot, minced |
¹⁄ | cup heavy cream |
1 | ounce Parmesan cheese, grated fine (¹⁄ |
2 | teaspoons grated lemon zest plus ¹⁄ |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh basil |
1.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1³⁄
4
cups cooking water, then drain pasta.
2.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in 1¹⁄
2
cups reserved cooking water and cream, bring to simmer, and cook for 2 minutes. Off heat, add drained pasta, remaining 3 tablespoons oil, Parmesan, lemon zest, lemon juice, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon pepper and toss to combine.
3.
Cover and let pasta rest for 2 minutes, tossing frequently and adding remaining cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle individual portions with oil and serve, passing Parmesan separately.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
With just three main ingredients (cheese, pepper, and pasta), this Roman dish makes a delicious and quick pantry supper. But in versions we tried, the creamy sauce quickly turned into clumps of solidified cheese. For a smooth, intensely cheesy sauce that wouldn’t separate once tossed with the pasta, we whisked together some of the pasta cooking water with the grated Romano—we chose real Pecorino Romano for the best flavor. Swapping out butter for cream further ensured a smooth sauce. Even after sitting on the table a full five minutes, there wasn’t a clump in sight.
SERVES 4 TO 6
High-quality ingredients are essential in this dish, most importantly, imported Pecorino Romano. For a slightly less rich dish, substitute half-and-half for the heavy cream. Do not adjust the amount of water for cooking the pasta; the amount used is critical to the success of the recipe. Make sure to stir the pasta frequently while cooking so that it doesn’t stick to the pot. Draining the pasta water into the serving bowl warms the bowl and helps keeps the dish hot until it is served. Letting the dish rest briefly before serving allows the flavors to develop and the sauce to thicken.
6 | ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, 4 ounces grated fine (2 cups) and 2 ounces grated coarse (1 cup) |
1 | pound spaghetti |
Salt | |
2 | tablespoons heavy cream |
2 | teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons pepper |
1.
Place finely grated Pecorino in medium bowl. Set colander in large bowl.
2.
Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta into prepared colander, reserving cooking water. Pour 1¹⁄
2
cups cooking water into liquid measuring cup and discard remainder. Return drained pasta to now-empty bowl.
3.
Slowly whisk 1 cup reserved cooking water into finely grated Pecorino until smooth, then whisk in heavy cream, oil, and pepper. Gradually pour cheese mixture over pasta and toss to combine. Let pasta rest for 1 to 2 minutes, tossing frequently and adding remaining cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Serve, passing coarsely grated Pecorino separately.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Roasting gives garlic a smooth, nutty character, a flavor that partners perfectly with pasta. Many roasted garlic recipes recommend drizzling garlic with olive oil, wrapping it in aluminum foil, and tossing it in the oven, but we found this method to be unreliable and it also sometimes gave the garlic a bitter taste. One reason garlic can be tricky to roast is that it is relatively dry. To add some moisture to the garlic in our roasted garlic recipe, we first poached it in milk—producing a final product that was beautifully golden in color and perfectly tender. Once the garlic was roasted, the rest of the dish was a cinch. We mashed the garlic and whisked it into a mixture of milk, cream, and Parmesan. Tossed with pasta, the sauce delivered rich, creamy garlic flavor in every bite.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Use the smaller amount of red pepper flakes for a milder sauce.
1 | garlic head |
1 | cup whole milk |
¹⁄ | teaspoon olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup heavy cream |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons minced fresh oregano or ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
¹⁄ | cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | pound linguine |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Remove outer papery skins from garlic, then cut top quarter off head and discard. Place garlic, cut side down, in small saucepan. Add milk, bring to gentle simmer, and cook until garlic is softened slightly, about 10 minutes. Drain garlic, reserving milk, and rinse to remove milk residue.
2.
Place softened garlic head in center of 8-inch square of aluminum foil. Drizzle garlic with oil, wrap securely, and place on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until cloves are very soft, about 1 hour.
3.
Transfer packet to cutting board, cool for 10 minutes, then unwrap garlic and gently squeeze to remove cloves from skin. Transfer cloves to bowl and mash with fork until smooth.
4.
Bring reserved milk, cream, oregano, and pepper flakes to simmer in medium saucepan and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Reduce heat to low, whisk in garlic paste, and continue to cook, whisking constantly, until sauce emulsifies slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Slowly whisk in Parmesan until melted and season with salt and pepper to taste.
5.
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ¹⁄
2
cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce to pasta and toss to combine. Add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Serve, passing Parmesan and pepper separately.