Read The Cornbread Gospels Online

Authors: Crescent Dragonwagon

The Cornbread Gospels (37 page)

5.
Transfer the mix into gallon-size zip-top freezer bags. Label and date each bag. To prevent rancidity, both from the whole-grain flours, and especially from the toasted ground sesame, store the bags of mix in the freezer.

6.
Use the mix as needed, straight from the freezer, making pancakes or waffles with the recipes on
pages 214
and
220
, and be glad you did this.

B
UTTERMILK
I
S
B
ETTER

You may have noticed that the liquid in the pancake recipes here is all or part buttermilk. To me, nothing makes a more tender pancake, and buttermilk’s tang adds a depth of flavor not otherwise found.

If you don’t have buttermilk on hand, you can use a good-quality plain, unsweetened yogurt, diluted 50-50 with water, for an effect that’s almost as good. And, a pretty decent dried buttermilk powder is available these days in most supermarkets, near the other powdered milks. (You’ll see I call for it in the multigrain pancake mix, left.) Your other alternative: Use 1 cup regular milk with 1 teaspoon vinegar or lemon juice added. For vegan (nondairy) buttermilk, add the vinegar or lemon juice to plain, unsweetened soy milk.

“Breakfast, July 12, 1893

Happily for us all this little company of visitors this week contains no distressful hypochondriacs nor people with special aversions. But some of them have intimated that it is essential to their happiness to have corn bread for breakfast constantly, both baked and griddled. Menu: Fresh black cap raspberries (1 qt, 10 cents); Oatmeal (3 cents); Fish plain fried, lard for frying (12 cents); Liver breaded (12 cents); Beefsteak (20 cents); Potatoes (7 cents); Corn bread and corn batter cakes (16 cents); Cream and milk, syrup, butter, coffee, tea (65 cents); Total, $1.65; 6½ cents a plate. The deuce take this troublesome business of boarding people for profit!”

—J
ESSUP
W
HITEHEAD
,
Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort: Our Daily Bill of Fare and What It Cost, 1893

T
OASTED
S
ESAME
M
ULTIGRAIN
P
ANCAKES

S
ERVES
2
AS THE MAIN ITEM
, 4
AS PART OF A MORE SUBSTANTIAL BREAKFAST

I just marvel at how good these are, and how long they keep me going energy-wise. I think you will also be very pleased.

It’s the double hit of sesame that takes these over the top.

1 egg

1½ cups water, preferably spring or filtered (or, for extra-light pancakes, use club soda or a naturally carbonated water, such as San Pellegrino)

1 cup Toasted Sesame Multigrain Pancake Mix (
page 212
)

1 teaspoon mild vegetable oil

1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil

Optional accompaniments: butter or Better (see Pantry,
page 346
), pure maple syrup, fresh sliced fruit, and/or sautéed fruit

1.
In a medium bowl, beat together the egg
and water.

2.
Whisk in the pancake mix, the vegetable oil, and the sesame oil, being careful to combine thoroughly but not overbeat.

3.
Heat a heavy nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When the skillet is good and hot, ladle on the batter—it should make the telltale hiss as it hits the skillet’s surface if you have it hot enough. Make the cakes as large or small as your family likes. Lower the heat to medium. When the pancakes have risen and have a few bubbles around the edges, about 2 to 3 minutes, flip them. The second side usually takes 1 to 2 minutes.

4.
Serve hot from the griddle, with whatever accompaniments you like.

G
OLDEN
A
PPLES
OF THE
S
UN
P
ANCAKES

S
ERVES
4
TO
6

Faintly sweet, so lightly cinnamon’d that you don’t even identify the spice as much more than a fragrance, these are substantial. Cornmeal gives grittiness, buttermilk provides a tender cake, and apple pieces stud each bite. These cakes make a good fall brunch or breakfast, with applesauce, apple butter, or the Warm Maple-Apple Sauté on
page 206
. Top with butter, a dab of cottage cheese or sour cream, or a drizzle of honey.

Choose a not-too-crisp yet full-flavored variety of apple: a McIntosh, Macoun, or Golden Delicious. Be sure to dice the apple
very fine;
large chunks leave sections of the pancakes undercooked, but grating them makes the cakes overly moist.

1¼ cups stone-ground yellow cornmeal

1¼ cups unbleached white flour

¼ cup sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 eggs

1 cup milk

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk

1 teaspoon mild vegetable oil

2 apples, peeled, cored, and finely diced into ⅛-inch pieces

Vegetable oil cooking spray (optional)

Optional accompaniments: Warm Maple-Apple Sauté, applesauce, apple butter, butter, cottage cheese, sour cream, and/or honey

1.
Combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking
powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.

2.
Separately, in a smaller bowl, beat the eggs, then stir in the milk and buttermilk. Add the oil.

3.
Pour the liquid mixture into the dry and whisk quickly to blend the ingredients thoroughly. Do not overbeat. Stir in the diced apple.

4.
Heat a skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. If it is nonstick, you need not spray it with oil; if it is conventional, give it a good spray. When the skillet is nice and hot, lower the heat slightly to medium and spoon the batter onto it, using about 2 tablespoons of batter per pancake. If the skillet is hot enough, the pancake batter will sizzle slightly as it makes contact with the pan surface.

5.
Let the pancakes cook until bubbles that do not burst appear around the edges, 70 to 80 seconds. Flip the pancakes and cook the second side for about 50 seconds. Serve, hot, from the griddle, with the accompaniments of your choice.

V
ARIATION
:
S
OUFFLÉED
G
OLDEN
A
PPLES OF THE
S
UN
P
ANCAKES

This is a much lighter, airier version. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks in with the liquids, as above. In a small, deep bowl, beat the whites until stiff (see Beating Egg Whites,
pages 186

187
). After adding the apple in step 3, gently fold in the beaten whites. Griddle the pancakes as directed.

“The people had a responsibility to this world, as the world had a responsibility to them. The physical environment of the Iroquois was infused with religious and spiritual meaning. … The corn does not just grow by itself; the Iroquois believed plants think and feel and know the way we do. The Corn Mother watches over the crop, the people perform the rituals, the fields flourish.”

—H
AZEL
W. H
ERTZBERG
,
The Great Tree and the Longhouse

O
RANGE
-B
LUEBERRY
C
ORNMEAL
P
ANCAKES

S
ERVES
4
TO
6

These are wonderful pancakes, and they are surprisingly delicate considering the whole grains. The citrus adds a subtle, almost floral sweetness. Make them at the height of fresh blueberry time, and luxuriate. Or try them on a gray winter Sunday, using frozen berries—and remember summer fondly with each bite. Either will satisfy.

If you do use frozen berries,
don’t thaw them first
, or your batter will turn a less-than-appetizing blue-gray. Another tip: Since the batter is a bit more fragile than that of some pancakes, cook the cakes in a nonstick pan, for a slightly longer time, at a slightly lower heat. This compensates for this delicacy, firming the cakes up nicely.

These are so good that you might eat them perfectly plain, or with just a touch of butter and the traditional maple syrup.

1 cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal

½ cup unbleached white flour

½ cup whole wheat flour, preferably pastry flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1¼ teaspoons baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 egg

Finely grated zest of 1 orange, preferably organic

1 cup orange juice, preferably freshly squeezed (about 2 large oranges)

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk

2 teaspoons melted butter or mild vegetable oil

1 cup blueberries, fresh or frozen (unthawed)

Vegetable oil cooking spray (optional)

1.
Combine the cornmeal, white and whole wheat flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl.

2.
In a smaller bowl, beat the egg, then stir in the orange zest, orange juice, and buttermilk. Stir in the butter or oil.

3.
Pour the liquid mixture into the dry mixture and whisk quickly to blend the ingredients thoroughly. Do not overbeat. Stir in the berries.

4.
Heat a skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. If it is nonstick, you need add no oil; if it is conventional, give it a good spray of vegetable oil. When the skillet is nice and hot, lower the heat slightly to medium and spoon the batter onto it, using about 2 tablespoons batter per pancake. (If the skillet is hot enough,
the pancake batter will sizzle slightly as it makes contact with the pan.) Cook the pancakes until bubbles that do not burst appear around the edges, about 1½ minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook the second side for about 50 seconds. Serve, hot, from the griddle, or keep warm in a low (250°F) oven for a few minutes until ready to serve.

·M·E·N·U·

“I O
NLY
H
AVE
E
YES FOR
Y
OU
” B
IRTHDAY
B
REAKFAST

Sectioned Ruby Red Grapefruit Halves with Granulated Maple Sugar

*

Orange-Blueberry Cornmeal Pancakes

*

Butter • Cottage Cheese • Maple Syrup from the Family Trees (and a Birthday Candle on the Top of the Birthday Girl/Boy’s Pancake Stack)

*

Sautéed Bacon or Smoked Tempeh Strips

*

Hot Ceylon Tea with Milk

D
OUBLE
-C
ORN
C
OTTAGE
P
ANCAKES

S
ERVES
4

The “double” in this recipe’s title refers to both the yellow cornmeal in the batter and the corn kernels stirred into it. To me, these pancakes are superb dinner fare, whether with some thing old-fashioned (meatloaf) or new-fashioned (baked tempeh with gravy). But they certainly fit the breakfast bill also, especially in the sweeter variation that follows.

3 eggs

1 cup cottage cheese (see Choosing Good Cottage Cheese,
page 221
)

1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil

⅓ cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal

2 tablespoons unbleached white flour

½ teaspoon baking soda

⅛ teaspoon salt

¾ cup corn kernels, cut from 1 or 2 ears of fresh corn (see Shuck and Jive,
page 49
), or frozen corn kernels, measured and thawed

Vegetable oil cooking spray

Optional accompaniments: butter or Better (see Pantry,
page 349
), pure maple syrup, and/or unsweetened applesauce

1.
Buzz the eggs, cottage cheese, and oil or butter in a food processor until well combined.

2.
Add the cornmeal, flour, baking soda, and salt and pulse a few times, just to combine well. Add the corn kernels, giving one or two pulses only.

3.
Spray your largest nonstick skillet well, and place it over medium-high heat for a few minutes. Let it get good and hot, then begin dropping the pancake batter by rounded tablespoonfuls onto the skillet (the batter should sizzle a bit when it hits the pan).

4.
Allowing about 70 seconds for the first side, watch the pancakes closely (the cottage cheese makes the batter’s texture atypical, so there are fewer telltale bubbles). When they are ready to be flipped, you will notice the top sides have firmed up a little (not as much as you might think) and have a slightly dulled finish. Flip one cake gently; if it’s a nice, even golden brown, your timing was impeccable. Allow about 30 seconds for side two and continue flipping the other pancakes.

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