The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances (37 page)

Sun in a Bottle: Not Too Safe Either

Self-tanning products have been around in one form or another since the invention of cosmetics. In 1960, Coppertone introduced its first sunless tanning product, Quick Tanning Lotion, which was so orange it instantly became a joke. Today’s sunless tanning products produce much more realistic-looking results. Sunless spray tanning or self-tanning lotions and sprays can imitate a subtle bronze glow or a deep, dark tan. Self-tanners are the choice of many top models who are too blond and too smart to bake under the Riviera sun. Many fashion designers and stylists send their models to spray tanning booths or hire estheticians to rub self-tanners on their skin as they make final fittings before a big show.

But self-tanners aren’t all that safe. Virtually all conventional and green self-tanners are made with dihydroxyacetone (DHA). Does that sound similar to acetone, that infamous, toxic nail polish remover? No wonder. They are cousins. When applied to the skin, dihydroxyacetone oxidizes and injects the top skin layer with a brownish color that sheds off in five to six days.

Sounds pretty safe, doesn’t it? It’s something like a long-wearing blusher for skin. But when I tried to impart some color into my pregnancy-stricken, milky-pale face with a perfectly natural DHA-based self-tanner froma well-known green German brand, I did some research aimed for pregnant women. The British hub for new mums at
iVillage.co.uk
revealed that dihydroxyacetone is not recommended for pregnant women because there were no studies that confirmed its safety. Concerned, I dug deeper, and here’s what I found: dihydroxyacetone generates free radicals during UV exposure. A German study conducted in October 2007 found that DHA-treated skin was attacked by 180 percent more free radicals during sun exposure compared to untreated skin (Jung et al. 2007). In plain English, self-tanners actively promote skin aging. Needless to say, I passed on that self-tanner.

But what’s a pale girl to do? Long live the bronzer. These pretty, shimmery powders yield immediate results and are easy to apply. When choosing a bronzing cream or a powder, steer clear of talc-based versions, for talc is not the safest cosmetic ingredient. Some studies link cosmetic use of talc to ovarian cancer, but the results are inconclusive (Langseth et al. 2008). Earlier, scientists voiced concerns that some cosmetic talcs may be contaminated with asbestos (Blount 1991). So if you prefer to err on the side of caution, look for titanium oxide–based bronzers that contain some mica and iron oxides for coloring. Wou can blend some mineral or cream bronzer with your body oil or SPF-rated sunscreen lotion and achieve a pretty glow that is healthy, too.

I know it’s hard to ditch the idea that sun in a bottle is the safest way to get a tan. So here’s a truly safe self-tanner recipe my mom honed as she started spending more and more time away from the sun and under an umbrella. This recipe takes more time than all the other recipes in this book combined (three months to soak the walnuts!), but the wait is worth the results. This oil contains iodine from walnut shells, so it may not be suitable for people with thyroid disorders.

Golden
Shimmer
Nut Tanner

1 cup green walnut husks or young walnut shells

1 cup organic virgin olive oil

2 tea bags of organic green tea

2 tablespoons coconut butter

120 mg (3 capsules) vitamin E

10 drops beta-carotene

1 teaspoon Bare Escentuals Precious Diamond Face and Body Color

Yield
:
4 ounces

1. Pour the oil over the walnut husks or shells, place in an airtight jar, and let stand in a warm place exposed to sunlight for about three months.

2. When the three months is up, pour the mixture into a small coffee press to divide the husks from the oil.

3. Meanwhile, steep the green tea in very hot water for 10 minutes. Cover the cup to prevent beneficial green tea antioxidants from escaping with the steam. When the tea is deep golden in color, remove the tea bags.

4. Melt coconut butter in a shallow stainless steel pan.

5. Add the pressed (deep brown) olive oil, steeped green tea, vitamin E, and beta-carotene. Briskly whisk to combine all the ingredients.

6. Now add the mineral shimmer, and your tanner is ready. Pour it into a nice pump bottle and apply sparingly. It won’t stain your clothes or sheets, and the glow is unbelievable! The tint stays for up to four days, if you don’t apply a body scrub.

Smart Tanning (Yes, It Can Be Done)

For those who choose to tan, dermatologists recommend the following preventative measures.

Choose a broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen
.
Once in my lifetime, I had to face the fierce sun in southern France after a glycolic acid peel. While I usually rely on old-fashioned zinc oxide, to avoid uneven pigmentation I applied a layer cake of sunscreens: an organic zinc oxide baby sunscreen as a moisturizer and a Mexoryl-containing (yes, not quite organic, but water-soluble) product on top. This way, the sunscreens joined forces, and even though Mexoryl didn’t penetrate my skin thanks to the highly occlusive, greasy baby sunscreen, my skin remained cool, blemish-free, and interestingly pale under the merciless July sun.

Apply sunscreen generously
.
To enjoy this process, pick a product that is a pleasure to use. Profit-oriented cosmetic manufacturers and dermatologists have routinely promoted a heavy application of chemical sunscreens for skin cancer prevention. This has not been proven by laboratory tests or epidemiological studies, yet common sense tells us that sun protection creams need to
be applied frequently to make a difference. The sunblock must not disappear in the skin like a good foundation. A walnut-size blob may be enough to cover one arm; a hazelnut-size blob is sufficient for the face. If you are unsure of how much product to use or you plan to spend a lot of time in the open sun, use a product with minimum SPF30.

Reapply sunscreen every two to three hours and after swimming or sweating. When playing sports, and for babies splashing in the pool, the sunscreen should also be water-resistant. Waterproof sunscreen doesn’t exist in nature. According to FDA, sunscreens are neither sweatproof nor waterproof. Most sunscreen formulations don’t dissolve in water or sweat, but can be washed off or rubbed off during swimming and other sport activities. Thus, FDA insists that no sunscreen, green or synthetic, can be marketed as waterproof, and that cosmetic manufacturers can label their products only as water-resistant or sweat-resistant.

Famous brands of sunscreens claim to protect your skin from UVA and UVB radiation, but the actual products do little to protect against the longer waves of UVA rays. Sunscreen alone does not completely prevent skin cancers such as melanoma, because harmful types of sun rays can cause DNA damage without actually burning the skin. Not a single sun-block or sunscreen can completely shield you from the harmful effects of sun radiation. Protective clothing made of natural, breathable fabrics, wide-brimmed hats, beach parasols, and common sense are your most reliable allies against premature skin aging. Avoid sunbathing between 10 AM and 4 PM. Keep babies away from the sun during this time, too.

Remember that the sun’s rays are stronger at higher elevations and near the equator. Here’s a trick: check your shadow length. If your shadow is shorter than your actual height, the risk of sunburn is much higher. Be aware that reflective surfaces like snow and water can greatly increase the amount of UV radiation to which the skin is exposed.

According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, more than 1.5 million skin cancers are diagnosed in the U.S. each year. Don’t become part of this sad statistic. Not a single sunscreen or sunblock, natural or chemical, allows you to bake in the sun for hours.

Strengthen Your Skin’s Defenses

We receive a major dose of sun radiation from our daily exposure to the sun, rather than at the beach where we are more likely to use sunscreens. Human skin has a built-in mechanism for sun protection, but an abundance of hormone-disrupting and toxic chemicals in the environment, a weak immune system, a less-than-perfect diet, and stress join forces to undermine our skin’s natural ability to protect itself from the elements, including sun radiation. Here’s how you can give your skin a helping hand.

If you choose to add just one natural antioxidant to your diet and skin care routine, make it green tea. Studies show that an antioxidant in green tea, a polyphenol called epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), may prevent DNA damage from ultraviolet radiation (Morley et al. 2005). Human trials showed that green tea offered some protection from sun radiation even when volunteers drank it and then were exposed to twelve minutes of ultraviolet A radiation. Make sure you drink lots of iced green tea during the summer, and I believe that if you add a concentrated extract of epigallocatechin gallate to your sun protective moisturizer, the effect could be even greater. Powdered epigallocatechin gallate is available online.

Virtually all plants and animals protect themselves from the sun using vitamins C and E. A stable aqueous solution of 15 percent L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and 1 percent alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) can provide significant protection against sunburn by warding off free radicals. Scientists say that either L-ascorbic acid or 1 percent alpha-tocopherol alone is also protective, but a combination works much better (Lin et al. 2003). Consistent use for at least four days produced even better protection from photoaging. Many sunscreen products contain vitamins C and E in their formulations.

One of nature’s most potent sun protectors is edelweiss. This precious flower protects itself from the intense sun at the tops of mountains thanks to carotenoids and vitamin E, which help this summer-flowering alpine herb survive exposure to intense UV radiation. “Edelweiss is useful in protecting human skin, too,” says Roger Barsby of Weleda. “Active compounds in the plant alleviate irritation and help prevent premature aging and wrinkling, as well as protect blood vessels and so impeding fine thread veins. Edelweiss extract contains powerful free-radical scavengers, which bind the free radicals and render them ineffective.”Weleda’s sunscreens contain organic edelweiss extract blended with carrot and light sesame oil, which are also valued for their UV-filtering properties.

As effective as vitamins C and E already are, their performance really shines when ferulic acid, another powerful plant antioxidant, steps in. When ferulic acid works in synergy with vitamins C and E, the skin receives eight times more protection from sunburns and skin cancer. This antioxidant formulation also greatly reduces damage of skin cell DNA (Lin et al. 2005).

Carotenoids are natural pigments that protect us from sun radiation by scavenging free radicals. Studies show that a carotenoid-rich diet is very efficient in sun protection, and eating foods rich in lutein, zeaxanthin, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, and lycopene can significantly lower your chances of getting a sunburn (Stahl, Sies 2005). A 2004 German study found that treatment with carotenoids is needed for a period of at least ten weeks, and increased consumption of carotenoids in tomatoes, spinach, broccoli, zucchini, and, of course, carrots, may contribute to lifelong protection against UV-induced damage (Sies, Stahl 2004). Pure lutein and beta-carotene are also available as food supplements.

Green Product Guide: Sunscreens

Exposure to sunlight has always been a natural part of life, and even though the ozone layer is diminishing, there is no reason to avoid sunshine. Just be careful and use a natural mineral sunscreen. Common sense tells us that too much of anything is unhealthy, so use your judgment when outdoors. The following are my recommended sunscreens, rated from one to three leaves, with three being my favorite.

Lavera SPF30 Baby and Child Sun Spray
can be used by the whole family. Fine zinc oxide and titanium dioxide do not leave a whitish cast on skin, and the smell is fresh and summery but not too noticeable. Fatty acids from certified organic ingredients moisturize and ensure even application. The spray bottle allows adding antioxidants such as green tea extract, vitamin E, and a few drops of eucalyptus oil for bug repelling purposes. The only drawback is the presence of alumina in the formulation: I have mixed feelings about aluminum in any form in my skin care products.

Juice Organics SPF30 Light TintMoisturizer
is the only product I need on a summer morning. A formula with titanium dioxide sits on my skin nicely, while a load of antioxidant plant extracts (white grape, pomegranate, aloe, apple, cucumber, green tea) join forces with serious skin soothers and plumpers like vitamin C, E, and B5; allantoin; and hyaluronic acid. It contains no paraben preservatives or synthetic dyes, but does have essential oil fragrance, which may be irritating to sensitive skin.