The Indian Vegan Kitchen (32 page)

F
LATBREADS PLAY
A fundamental role in Indian cooking, just as loaf breads do in Western cuisines. Wheat is the staple food in northern India, and flatbreads are served at most meals. Indian breads are unleavened, flat, and usually made of whole grain. They are very different in taste and texture from oven-baked, leavened loaves. Probably the bread closest to Indian flatbreads is Mexican tortillas—but in shape only, as the taste and texture are very different. The scope of Indian flatbreads is unmatched by any other cuisine. They are easy, quick, and fun to prepare and absolutely delicious to eat.

Wheat is the most common type of grain used to make a variety of flatbreads. Other grains such as millet (
bajra
), sorghum (
jawar
), and corn (
makka
) are also used occasionally (see Types of Flour, page 155). A variety of wheat flatbreads are eaten at most meals. Rolling them perfectly round may take a little practice, but then again, they taste great whatever shape they are. Different flours, shaping techniques, and cooking sources produce a variety of taste and textures.

From daily bread (roti) to festive bread (
puri
), Indian breads can be broken down into four basic types, each one defined by how it’s cooked.

The most prevalent and nutritious variety, and the daily bread of India, is roti, also known as
phulka
in some regions, or
chapatti
in Westernized homes. It is made with whole wheat flour.

The everyday plain roti is made on a
tava
(flat iron griddle). It is beautifully simple. You mix whole wheat flour and water, roll the dough into a thin circle, cook it on the heated
tava
for 1 to 2 minutes, and it’s ready to eat. The cooked roti may be buttered, for flavor and moistness. For variations, different grains, spices, herbs, vegetables, beans, and nuts are used.

The roti is served hot off the griddle (hot translates to
garam
). It’s soft and pliable and great for scooping up vegetables and dals. Traditionally, as well as today in India whenever possible, the roti is made fresh and comes to you one by one when you sit down to eat. A mother instinctively knows the value of hot roti, and takes pride in making them hot and fresh for her family (
garam
,
garam
, as we would say). After she feeds the family hot roti, she makes the last two for herself and joins the family. This might sound subservient to a non-Indian, but it’s ingrained in the Indian culture. There is nothing as satisfying and wholesome as hot roti. For the sake of time, I rarely serve them this way. But I do make all the roti just before we sit down to eat. They are still fresh and hot but not served one by one. Roti can also be kept and eaten later.

The next most popular flatbread after the roti is
paratha
. In my repertoire of flatbreads,
parathas
take the cake. When I was growing up,
paratha
was made for breakfast and dinner. Things changed over the years, and
parathas
were served more and more occasionally as the family became increasingly health-conscious.

Most
parathas
are made with whole wheat flour, rolled into a small circle, lightly oiled, folded and rolled out again. They are then lightly fried on a hot
tava
. They are layered, flaky, and tender. Most
parathas
are eaten plain—that is, they have nothing added to them. Even plain
parathas
make meals more special and taste better and richer with curries.
Parathas
keep well, and thus are great for lunch boxes, traveling, and picnics.

Parathas
can be stuffed with spicy potatoes, grated radishes, and onions. Just when I think I’ve eaten every possible type of
paratha
, I am surprised with a new stuffing and a new flavor. My kids’ favorite is Potato-Stuffed Flatbread (
Aloo Paratha
, page 160), and my vote goes to Daikon-Stuffed Flatbread (
Mooli Paratha
, page 163). Try all the recipes and see which one you like the best. Trust me, making the decision won’t be easy.

It seems wrong to call the deep-fried bread known as
puri
a flatbread, since it puffs up like a balloon in the hot oil, but within seconds it loses its steam and gently falls flat.
Puri
is a festive bread made on holidays and for special celebrations, weddings, parties, and banquets. Sometimes on weekends, especially if I have company over, I will serve hot
puri
and potato curry for brunch. It is sure to bring a satisfied smile from the guests as well the family.

Most
puri
s are plain with just a hint of salt, and like rotis, they are used to scoop up flavorful curries. They keep better than
parathas
and thus are often taken when traveling long distances. They are a standard at Indian picnics. Stuffed or flavored
puris
are also popular.
Kachories
are a variation of stuffed
puri
served at special occasions for breakfast, snacks, or with a meal.

Bhatura
originates from the Punjab region. It is made with leavened white flour and is often considered a street food. In Delhi and other large northern Indian cities, you can get amazing
chole
-
bhature
(
bhatura
with spicy chickpeas) at roadside stands.

Tandoor
is a clay oven that originated from the Punjab region in India. But its roots lie in the Middle East when Persians migrated to India in the 1300s.
Tandoori
breads have become the most popular Indian flatbreads in the world today. Most Indian restaurants around the world flaunt a
tandoor
, often within the view of customers, and make wonderful hot bread called
naan
.

Naan is rarely made in Indian homes, for it does require a
tandoor
, and is made with white flour and thus is not considered healthy. You can make acceptable naan in your oven (see Sesame Seed Naan, page 166). Naan can also be flavored with spices and filled with vegetables or cheese, but the most popular is plain naan.

LF

1. In a mixing bowl or food processor, place flour. Make a well in the center of the flour. Add water gradually as you mix dough. (Depending on the type of flour, the amount of water needed may vary slightly.) The dough should be soft and easy to roll into a ball. Knead the dough for 1 to 2 minutes until smooth and elastic. Cover and let sit for 10 minutes or longer.

2. Place
½
cup flour for rolling in a shallow container and set aside.

3. Divide dough into 12 balls. Roll each ball between palms of your hands in a circular motion until the dough is smooth. Press to flatten.

4. Heat
tava
/iron griddle or a heavy fry pan on medium to medium-high heat. Adjust heat as needed. If
tava
is too hot, roti will burn and stick to the
tava
, and if not hot enough, the roti will take a long time to cook and become dry.

5. Roll each flat ball in the flour. Roll into approximately 6-inch-round flatbreads.

6. Place the roti on the heated
tava
. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes until roti colors and becomes firm and easy to pick up. Turn over and cook roti on the other side. Cook for a few seconds, until light brown spots appear on the underside. Turn back to the first side. With a folded kitchen towel; press the roti down gently but firmly. The roti will puff as you press it.

7. If desired, lightly brush top of roti with oil. Oiling keeps the rotis softer and moist. Serve immediately or place in an airtight container to serve later.

LF