The Kitchen Counter Cooking School (48 page)

Meanwhile, add the olive oil to a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute; be sure not to burn it or you'll need to start over. Add the tomatoes and any other vegetables (see below), and cook until the vegetables are softened, about 3 to 5 minutes for tomatoes on their own, longer if you add other vegetables.
Add the reserved pasta water and cook until the sauce is reduced slightly and the rest of the ingredients begin to break down, about another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the cheese, red pepper flakes and parsley or basil (if using), several cranks of fresh black pepper, and salt if needed.
Consider adding the following:
Splash of cream at the end of cooking for a more creamy texture
Handful of additional chopped vegetables, such as zucchini, artichokes, olives, and/or asparagus, to extend the sauce and offer additional flavor
Shrimp or diced cooked chicken with the tomatoes (Shrimp can be added raw, but be sure to cook them thoroughly; they should turn white throughout and curl up tightly.)
Potage Parmentier
(Leek and Potato Soup)
This is inexpensive French soul food. If leeks aren't available, try sweet onions. Makes about four to six servings.
 
3 medium leeks
2 tablespoons butter
1 pound potatoes, peeled and diced
1 bay leaf and
teaspoon dried thyme, or a bouquet garni
2 quarts water or chicken or vegetable stock
cup whipping cream, or 2 tablespoons butter, softened
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cayenne to taste (optional)
3 tablespoons minced parsley or chives
 
Prepare the leeks by discarding the roots and the tough green upper stalks. Slice, then rinse them in water to remove any residual dirt. In a 4-quart or larger saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons of butter, then sauté the leeks for about 5 minutes, until they are softened and translucent. Add the potatoes, bay leaf and thyme or bouquet garni and water or stock. Simmer for about 40 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.
Remove from the heat. Discard the bay leaf. Break down the vegetables with a fork or a potato masher, or puree in a blender. Return to the heat. Add the whipping cream or 2 tablespoons butter. Taste. Add salt and pepper if needed, and a bit of cayenne if desired. Garnish with chopped parsley or chives and a couple of cranks of black pepper.
A “Cheat Sheet” to Flavor Profiles
What makes something taste Italian or Cajun or Moroccan? Whether crafting vinaigrette, seasoning chicken, or developing a soup, understanding the flavors of ingredients that help to define various cuisines can be deeply useful.
Every cuisine has its regional variations; Basque cuisine is vastly different from the classic dishes from Provence, but they're both French. So consider this a shorthand reference to a few culinary stereotypes. Don't overdo it. Try incorporating two to four ingredients from a cuisine group to tilt a flavor profile in that general direction.
 
Cajun/Creole
dark roux, onions, celery, green pepper, tomatoes, parsley, cayenne, Cajun spice blends, blackening seasonings, lemon, scallions, andouille sausage, crab, shrimp
 
French
butter, shallots, onions, celery, carrots, thyme, tarragon, herbs de Provence, bay leaves, chives, chervil, capers, red and white wine, truffle, soft cheeses, Dijon mustard, mushrooms, cream
 
Indian
tandoori spices, garam masala, curry, yogurt, coconut milk, basmati rice, tamarind, cardamom, cumin, coriander, cilantro, fennel, garlic, saffron, fenugreek, dried chilies
 
Italian
garlic, onions, celery, basil, pesto, prosciutto, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, mozzarella cheese, pine nuts, tomatoes, artichokes, olives, olive oil, oregano, lemon, fennel, flat-leaf parsley, red pepper flakes, rosemary, white beans, balsamic vinegar
 
Japanese
miso, sesame oil, sesame seeds, rice vinegar, sake, soy sauce, wasabi, ginger
 
Mediterranean/Greek
oregano, lemon, olives, tuna, rosemary, bay leaves, thyme, olive oil, lamb, garlic, feta cheese, tomatoes, red onions, fish, shellfish
 
Mexican/Tex-Mex
cumin, chili powder, hot sauce, green peppers, oregano, lime, garlic, onions, celery, cilantro, tomatoes, scallions, black beans, Cheddar cheese, avocado
 
North African
mint, lemon, harissa, saffron, turmeric, parsley, cilantro, honey, olives, almonds, dates, raisins, chickpeas, eggplant, green bell peppers, carrots, lentils, onion, ground ginger, paprika, cumin, cayenne, figs
 
Central/South Asian
ginger, garlic, scallions, shallots, lemongrass, Thai basil, cilantro, fish sauce, shrimp paste, soy sauce, coconut milk, sesame seeds, sesame oil, rice or sweet wine vinegar, cilantro, lime, oyster sauce, galangal, hot chili peppers
Acknowledgments
First, here's a nod to the crew at Viking Penguin, including my wonderful editors, Stephen Morrison and Rebecca Hunt, publicist Lindsay Prevette, editor Beena Kamlani and copy editor Randee Marullo. I'm thankful for the wisdom and support of agent Larry Weissman through this project.

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