The Mediterranean Slow Cooker Cookbook (17 page)

Turkey au Vin

Coq au vin
, Literally “chicken in wine,” is a rustic dish served in bistros across France. Since turkey breast is available in most supermarkets and doesn’t tend to dry out in the long cooking process, this is my riff on the classic
coq au vin.
It’s traditionally made with a full-bodied French wine such as Burgundy, but you can substitute Merlot or Zinfandel with terrific results. Marinating the turkey in the wine before cooking gives it a deeper flavor. I love to serve this as a party dish; the slow cooker keeps the turkey warm, and the aromas are enticing. Serve this bit of France over buttered noodles or creamy mashed potatoes.

SERVES 6

4 cups/960 ml full-bodied red wine, such as Burgundy, Merlot, or Zinfandel

2 garlic cloves, minced

1½ tsp dried thyme

2 bay leaves

1½ tsp salt

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

3 lb/1.4 kg turkey breast, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm pieces

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

8 strips thick-cut bacon, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm pieces

2½ cups/600 ml reconstituted chicken demi-glace, or chicken broth mixed with 2 tbsp soup base

4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter

¼ lb/113 g cipollini or pearl onions, peeled

1 lb/455 g white button mushrooms, stems trimmed

2 tbsp all-purpose flour

¼ cup/15 g finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a mixing bowl, combine the wine, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, salt, and pepper and whisk until blended. Put the turkey in a large zipper-top plastic bag, and add the marinade. Seal the bag and refrigerate for at least 8 hours up to 24 hours.

When ready to proceed, remove the turkey from the marinade and pour the marinade into a saucepan. Boil the marinade for 5 minutes and set aside. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and cook the bacon until crisp. Transfer to the insert of a 5- to 7-qt/4.5- to 6.5-L slow cooker. Brown the turkey in the skillet in batches over medium-high heat, taking care not to crowd the pan. Transfer to the insert of the slow cooker. Pour the reserved marinade into the skillet, bring to a boil, and scrape up any browned bits that may be stuck to the bottom of the pan. Pour the marinade into the slow-cooker insert, and add the demi-glace. Cover and cook on high for 3 hours, or on low for 5 to 6 hours, until the turkey is tender.

While the turkey is cooking, wipe out the skillet and melt 2 tbsp of the butter. Sauté the onions until they are browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until the onions turn pale gold. Set the mixture aside until the stew is ready. Allow the remaining 2 tbsp butter to soften at room temperature in a small bowl and knead with the flour.

When the turkey is tender, carefully remove it from the sauce with a slotted spoon, and transfer to a bowl. Skim off any excess fat from the sauce, pour the sauce into a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Whisk in the butter mixture, 1 tsp at a time, and continue whisking until the sauce returns to a boil and is smooth and thickened to your liking. Add the onion and mushroom mixture and any accumulated juices to the pan, and stir in the parsley. Return the sauce and turkey to the slow cooker and keep on the warm setting until ready to serve.

CH.04
SEAFOOD

Harvesting the sea is a way of life for many in the Mediterranean region. Fishermen have plied the local waters for centuries, and fathers continue to teach their sons the necessary skills. Watching the fishermen leave the docks in Genoa, Marseilles, Barcelona, Algiers, Tunis, and Naples, and awaiting their return with the catch of day, is part of the market scene in these and other Mediterranean ports. The catch is a matter of pride for each fisherman, who never would consider selling something that is not the best that he can bring in.

With a slow cooker you can serve up some delectable seafood, mingling the flavors of the Mediterranean, and producing tender and delicious entrées, from a
seafood stew prepared with sea bass and North African flavors
, to
halibut baked with potatoes and the flavors of Provence
, to
Olive Oil-Poached Tuna
. Or how about a
Spanish paella
? Lifting the lid on a seafood dish and inhaling the aroma will make you feel as if you are dining at a seaside bistro along the Mediterranean.

Slow-Cooked Salmon with Sorrel

Bright pink salmon and deep green sorrel pair up to braise in a lemony, white wine-butter sauce. Once the salmon is cooked, the sauce is puréed with a bit of cream and served over the salmon; it doesn’t get much easier than that! If you can’t find sorrel, substitute watercress or leeks.

SERVES 6

4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter, melted

2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

1 cup/240 ml dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc, or dry vermouth

1 cup/100 g packed sorrel, tough stems removed, and finely chopped

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp Old Bay Seasoning or seafood seasoning

One 2½- to 3-lb/1.2- to 1.4-kg side of salmon

½ cup/120 ml heavy cream

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Pour the butter into the insert of a 5- to 7-qt/4.5- to 6.5-L slow cooker, and stir in the lemon juice and white wine. Toss the sorrel with the wine mixture, and set aside.

In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil and Old Bay. Use a brush to paint the mixture over the salmon, and lay the salmon on top of the sorrel in the slow cooker. Cover and cook on high for 1½ to 2 hours, or on low for 3 to 4 hours, until the salmon is opaque in the center and registers 165°F/74°C on an instant-read meat thermometer.

Carefully remove the salmon from the slow cooker with a long fish spatula, set it on a cutting board, and cover with aluminum foil while making the sauce.

Using an immersion blender, purée the sauce in the slow cooker, or allow it to cool slightly and purée in a blender. Transfer the sauce to a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in the cream, season with salt and pepper, and bring the sauce to a simmer. Remove from the heat. If the salmon had skin on it, remove it before serving; it should slip right off. Serve the salmon in a pool of sorrel sauce, and pass any additional sauce on the side.

Smothered Tuna Siciliana

An Italian fisherman once told me that tuna should either be cooked quickly, or long and slow. This recipe falls into the long and slow category, and it suits the slow cooker perfectly. The tuna simmers in a sauce with tomato, capers, olives, and lemon, resulting in fork-tender fish and a zesty sauce to serve over orzo or rice. I’ve used oregano in this recipe, but you can substitute thyme, sage, or rosemary if you prefer.

SERVES 6

¼ cup/60 ml extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, sliced

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 tsp dried oregano

Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

1 cup/240 ml dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc, or dry vermouth

One 28- to 32-oz/800- to 910-g can chopped tomatoes, with their juice

½ cup/50 g capers packed in brine, drained and large ones chopped

½ cup/50 g pitted oil-cured olives

Grated zest of 1 lemon

4 lb/1.8 kg tuna steaks, about 1 in/2.5 cm thick

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ cup/30 g finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the garlic, onion, oregano, and red pepper flakes (if using) for 3 minutes, or until the onion begins to soften. Add the white wine and bring to a boil. Transfer the contents of the skillet to the insert of a 5- to 7-qt/4.5- to 6.5-L slow cooker. Stir in the tomatoes, capers, olives, and lemon zest. Push the tuna under the sauce. Cover the slow cooker and cook on low for 5 to 6 hours, until the tuna is fork-tender. (Do not cook the tuna on high; it will be tough and chewy.)

Carefully remove the tuna from the slow cooker with a large spatula, transfer to a serving dish, and cover with aluminum foil. Skim off any excess fat from the sauce, season with salt and pepper, and stir in the parsley. Serve the tuna napped with some of the sauce, and pass the extra sauce on the side.

SLOW COOKER SAVVY

Most tuna steaks will come with the skin on. Wait until after the tuna is cooked to remove the skin; it will peel right off.

If you have tuna and sauce Left over, chunk the tuna into the sauce and serve it over pasta.

Olive Oil-Poached Tuna

Mediterranean cooks have been preserving tuna and other fish in olive oil for centuries, much like the French preserve duck confit. The tuna poaches in the oil, becoming soft and flavorful. Serve it immediately as a main course, or refrigerate and use in salads and pasta sauces. Be sure to use a high-quality extra-virgin olive oil here; it makes a huge difference in the quality of the finished dish.

SERVES 6

5 to 6 cups/1.2 to 1.4 L extra-virgin olive oil

6 garlic cloves, sliced

Pinch of red pepper flakes

3 lb/1.4 kg tuna steaks, about 1 in/2.5 cm thick

Pour 5 cups/1.2 L of the olive oil into the insert of a 5- to 7-qt/4.5- to 6.5-L slow cooker and stir in the garlic and red pepper flakes. Submerge the tuna in the oil. (If you need more oil to completely cover the tuna, add it now.) Cover the slow cooker and cook on low for 3 to 4 hours, until the tuna is cooked through.

Carefully lift the tuna out of the slow cooker with a wide fish spatula, and transfer to a cutting board. Remove any skin on the tuna, and cool. To preserve the tuna in the refrigerator, strain the oil and store the tuna in the oil in a closed container for up to 2 months. Or drain the tuna and refrigerate, tightly wrapped, for up to 1 week.

Swordfish Piccata

The word
piccata
is not found in Italian-English dictionaries. Some people think it is the term for a veal scallop, but others believe it is a shortened version of the word
piccante
, meaning “spicy” or “hot.” This dish features all the salty, spicy goodness that the Mediterranean has to offer in a great seafood main course. It’s terrific with any fish with firm, dense flesh. If you like, serve it over angel hair pasta.

SERVES 6

3 lb/1.4 kg swordfish fillets

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup/80 g finely chopped onion

4 garlic cloves, minced

Pinch of red pepper flakes

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 tsp dried Greek or Italian oregano

One 14½- to 15-oz/415- to 430-g can chopped tomatoes, with their juice

½ cup/50 g capers packed in brine, drained and chopped if large

¼ cup/15 g finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cooked angel hair pasta, for serving (optional)