The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook (40 page)

Read The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook Online

Authors: Sharon Lebewohl

Cauliflower au Gratin
SERVES
6
1 large head (or 2 small heads) cauliflower, divided into florets no larger than 2 inches
3 tablespoons plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons flour
¾ cup milk
¾ cup sour cream
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup seasoned bread crumbs
Butter for greasing pan
⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Paprika
1.
Pour water (you'll need enough to cover your cauliflower) into a large stockpot, and bring it to a rapid boil. When water is bubbling, toss florets into the pot, lower heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain in a colander, and transfer to a large bowl. Set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place 3 tablespoons of the melted butter in a second bowl. Using a wire whisk, stir in flour until smooth. Add milk, sour cream, egg yolk, salt, and pepper, and blend thoroughly.
3. Toss cauliflower with bread crumbs. Butter a Pyrex or similar baking dish, and transfer cauliflower into it. Pour sauce over the cauliflower. Distribute Parmesan cheese evenly over the top, and, using a flatware teaspoon, drizzle evenly with the remaining 2 tablespoons of melted butter. Bake for 10 minutes.
4. Turn up oven temperature to broil, and place baking dish in the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes, until the top is nicely browned. Keep an eye on it; there's only a small margin of time between browning and burning.
5. Sprinkle lightly with paprika, and serve.
Note:
In gauging the amount of cauliflower to use, you should have enough florets to serve 6 people. If you want to make less (say, enough for 4 people), use ½ cup milk and ½ cup sour cream. Everything else can remain the same.

Garlic-Rosemary Roast Potatoes
SERVES
6
TO
8
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup schmaltz
6 large potatoes, peeled and chopped into 2-inch chunks
2 tablespoons finely chopped or crushed fresh garlic
6 peeled garlic cloves (optional)
2 cups coarsely chopped onion
2 teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon rosemary
Paprika
Fresh parsley for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place all ingredients (except paprika and parsley) in a large bowl, and mix to thoroughly coat potatoes. Pour everything into a large baking dish, so that potatoes are all on one layer. Sprinkle with paprika, and bake 1 hour and 15 minutes or until tender and golden-crusted. (Every 30 minutes, check that potatoes are cooking evenly; if they're not, turn the pan around.) Garnish with chopped parsley.
Note:
You can use more or fewer potatoes, depending on how many people you're serving. It's easy to divide the chopped raw potatoes into portions and determine how many you'll need. Roasted garlic cloves are a plus if you like them.

Home-Fried Potatoes
SERVES
6
Home fries are so American. We add a bit of schmaltz to make them Jewish.
3 pounds large red or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled but whole
3 tablespoons corn oil
¾ cup green pepper, chopped into ¾-inch pieces
1½ cups chopped onions
2 teaspoons finely chopped or crushed fresh garlic
3 tablespoons schmaltz or olive oil
2 teaspoons paprika
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1. Bring a large stockpot of water to a vigorous boil, add potatoes, and simmer for 35 minutes or until potatoes are fully cooked (cooking time will depend on size). When potatoes cool sufficiently to handle, cut them into pieces approximately 1 inch by ½ inch. Place them in a large bowl, and set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Heat corn oil in a large skillet, and sauté green peppers for 2 minutes. Add onions, and continue to sauté until brown. Add garlic at the last minute to brown quickly. Pour contents of skillet into bowl with potatoes, add schmaltz, and toss gently to mix.
3. Combine paprika, cayenne, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Mix thoroughly, and sprinkle evenly over potatoes. Toss gently to further distribute ingredients.
4. Transfer contents of bowl to a baking dish, and bake for 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes.

French Fries
Idaho potatoes (as many as needed)
Corn or peanut oil
Salt
1. Cut potatoes into rectangles to create equal-sized fries. Then, using a sharp knife, cut fries about 2 inches long and ⅜ inch wide. Place the cut fries in cold water, and refrigerate for 2 hours. Rinse in cold water, and drain.
2. Heat oil (to 325 degrees if you have a candy thermometer) in a deep fryer or a tall stockpot. Place the potatoes in the basket of the deep fryer (or directly into the hot oil). Fry them for about 4 minutes; do not let them get browned. Remove potatoes to a bowl (use a slotted spoon if you don't have a basket), and refrigerate until cooled.
3. Heat oil again (to 375 degrees if you have a thermometer), and fry until golden brown and crisp. Toss into a bowl lined with paper toweling, blot excess oil, and salt to taste.

Mashed Potatoes
The Deli's mashed potatoes aren't very complicated. Each pound of potatoes serves about 3 people.
Potatoes (any kind are good; we like Yukon gold)
1 teaspoon salt
Schmaltz (3 tablespoons per pound of potatoes)
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Peel potatoes, and cut them into 2-inch pieces. Place them in a bowl covered with cold water, and soak for 10 minutes to remove starchiness; drain.
2. Fill a large stockpot about three-quarters full with water, and bring to a boil. Add potatoes and 1 teaspoon salt; cook until tender (about 18 minutes). Drain thoroughly in a colander. To further remove moisture (no one wants watery mashed potatoes), return potatoes to the pot on medium to high heat for a minute or two, turning them constantly so they don't burn.
3. For the smoothest results, put them through a ricer. If you don't have one, apply a lot of elbow grease to a potato masher. Do not mash them in a food processor or blender; it ruins the fluffy texture. Add 3 tablespoons schmaltz per pound of potatoes, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Optional additions:
Sautéed finely chopped onion or roasted garlic. For the latter, preheat oven to 350 degrees, chop tip off garlic head to expose cloves, and pull off loose peel. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, sprinkle with fresh pepper, and bake, wrapped in tin foil, for 45 minutes. Squeeze garlic head to release cloves, mash them up, and mix them into the potatoes. Alternately, you can simply sauté large chunks of garlic in olive oil.
Variation:
If you're making mashed potatoes as an accompaniment for fish, you might substitute unsalted butter for schmaltz and whip in some heated cream or half-and-half (about ⅜ cup per pound of potatoes).

Meat and Potato Knishes
MAKES
8
These Deli knishes (a variation on the real thing, since they're not wrapped in pastry) are substantial enough to make complete meals in themselves with a salad or vegetable on the side.
FOR THE PATTIES
2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
2 tablespoons corn oil
1 cup finely chopped onions
1 tablespoon finely chopped or crushed fresh garlic
¼ pound corned beef
¼ pound pastrami
2 scallions, finely chopped
3 eggs
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 cup seasoned bread crumbs
FOR THE CRUST AND COOKING
2 eggs
⅜ cup water
2 cups seasoned bread crumbs, placed in a shallow pan or dish
Corn oil for frying
1. Set a pot of water to boil, and cook potatoes 15 to 20 minutes, until tender. While the potatoes are cooking, heat corn oil in a large skillet, and sauté onions. At the last minute, add garlic, and brown quickly. Remove onions and garlic to a large bowl with a slotted spoon. Drain potatoes, add them to bowl, and refrigerate while chopping corned beef and pastrami very fine (for best results, use a food processor).

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