The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook (6 page)

Read The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook Online

Authors: Sharon Lebewohl

Health Salad
MAKES ABOUT 1½ QUARTS
As its name implies, this Deli staple is a healthier, though sweeter, version of coleslaw—one that contains no mayonnaise. It must be prepared at least a day in advance of serving.
1½ pounds white cabbage
¼ cup paper-thin slices of celery (use a part of the stalk that's about ¾-inch wide)
15 ¾-inch paper-thin slices of green pepper (use a potato peeler to make slices sufficiently thin)
15 paper-thin shavings of carrot (flatten the top end of a very large carrot, and shave them off with a potato peeler)
¾ cup white vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup sugar
3 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon white pepper
Chopped dried chives
1. Remove and discard loose outer cabbage leaves and core. Shred cabbage (the easiest way to do this is to cut the cabbage in quarters, julienne each quarter into ⅛-inch or smaller strips with a sharp knife, then pulse chopped cabbage just a few times in your food processor). Do not shred it very fine; you want texture and crunch. Place shredded cabbage in a large bowl; add celery, green pepper, and carrots; mix well.
2. In a separate bowl, thoroughly mix all other ingredients (except chives). Pour them over the cabbage and other vegetables, and toss to combine thoroughly. Chill overnight. Garnish lightly with chives before serving.

Macaroni Salad
SERVES
8
This macaroni salad, indigenous to Jewish delicatessens, goes best with a pastrami sandwich and a Coke. Prepare it a day in advance of serving if you can; it tastes better the second day.
1 pound elbow macaroni
1 teaspoon olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
1½ cups Hellmann's mayonnaise
⅜ cup white vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons finely grated onion
¼ cup chopped green pepper, pieces about ¼ inch
⅓ cup grated carrot
1 teaspoon deli-style mustard
½ teaspoon white pepper
Dried chives
1. In a large stockpot, bring 5 quarts of water to a vigorous boil. Add macaroni, olive oil, and ½ teaspoon of the salt, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes (until tender). Rinse in cold water, drain well, and transfer to a large bowl.
2. In another bowl, mix mayonnaise, vinegar, and sugar thoroughly. Pour over macaroni, and mix well.
3. Add all other ingredients, except chives, and stir everything in thoroughly. Refrigerate, and serve well chilled, lightly sprinkled with chives.

Potato Salad
SERVES
8
Like coleslaw and macaroni salad, this is a classic accompaniment to deli sandwiches.
3 pounds red potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1-inch chunks
¾ cup very finely chopped onion
⅔ cup celery, chopped into ¼-inch pieces
⅜ cup white vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 cup Hellmann's mayonnaise
⅓ cup minced parsley
¼ cup grated carrot
1. Fill a large stockpot three-quarters full with water and bring to a vigorous boil. Add potatoes, lower heat, and simmer 25 to 30 minutes, until tender but firm. Rinse, drain, and set aside.
2. When potatoes are cooled a bit, but still warm, gently mix onion, celery, and warm potato chunks together in a large bowl.
3. In another bowl, make a vinaigrette using vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper. Gently mix with warm potatoes, coating them thoroughly.
4. Gently stir in mayonnaise, parsley, and grated carrot. Serve chilled.

Potato Salad à la Russe
SERVES
8
Our Russian grandmothers were always throwing beets, peas, and carrots into the potato salad we ate at home, and we still love it that way.
2 medium dark red beets
3 pounds red potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1-inch chunks
1 cup carrots, diced into ¼-inch pieces
1 cup frozen peas
1 cup very finely chopped red onion (chop small pieces; then pulse them once or twice in a food processor)
½ cup sweet pickle relish
⅛ cup white vinegar
1 cup Hellmann's mayonnaise
⅓ cup very finely chopped fresh parsley
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1. Cut greens, roots, and stems off beets. Wash beets, and cut in half vertically. Place in pot with water to cover, bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for 1 hour.
2. While beets are cooking, fill a large stockpot three-quarters full with water and bring to a vigorous boil. Add potatoes, lower heat, and simmer 25 to 30 minutes, until tender but firm. Rinse, drain, and set aside.
3. In a smaller pot, cook diced carrots for 25 minutes, add peas, and cook 2 minutes more. Rinse, drain, and set aside.
4. When beets are cooked, let them cool a bit; then peel, and chop into ⅜-inch pieces.
5. Place beets, potatoes, peas, carrots, and all other ingredients in a large bowl, and mix gently but thoroughly. Serve chilled.

T
HE FIRST
U
NITED
S
TATES SENATOR
from New York of Italian descent, Alfonse D'Amato was initially elected to the Senate in 1980 and served three consecutive terms. During his tenure, he was a staunch supporter of Israel (he flew to Tel Aviv during Operation Desert Storm while Iraqi Scud missiles rained down); of fostering Jewish emigration from the USSR; and of strong measures against terrorism (in 1997, Congress passed his bill that says to the nations of the world: “You can trade with the terrorist states of Iran and Libya, or you can trade with us. It's that simple”). D'Amato also relentlessly pursued Swiss banks, forcing them to acknowledge their obligation—and initiate procedures—to return stolen monies to Holocaust victims.
I have to admit to being a bit biased. After all, Abe was a friend and supporter of mine. He was a great guy to have in your corner. You could easily forget that this guy—always helping people through his overwhelming generosity—had a business to run. I love the Second Avenue Deli, and I loved Abe dearly. I'm sure that Abe was also good to me because of my loyalty to the Jewish community and Israel. This was particularly important to him as a Holocaust survivor.
You know, Washington is not New York—white bread and hoagies are more the staple down here. What a hit I was with all my colleagues when Abe would cater one of my events. They knew nothing of Abe's kishke, corned beef, knishes, pastrami, and goulash, but when they started to
fress
(Yiddish for pig out, though not on pig, of course), they did it with the gusto of any New Yorker.
Antoinette D'Amato's Orzo Salad
SERVES
6
AS A SIDE DISH
Antoinette D'Amato, the senator's mother, is a whiz in the kitchen. On occasion, she caters Al's Senate lunches in Washington. This colorful salad takes only about 15 minutes to prepare. We loved it.
1 teaspoon cooking oil
1 pound orzo (oat-shaped pasta)
1 cup pitted, sliced black olives
1 cup diced pimiento
⅓ cup chopped scallions
⅓ cup finely chopped parsley
2½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil (add a teaspoon of oil to keep pasta from sticking). Toss orzo into boiling water, reduce heat, and simmer for 9 to 11 minutes, until tender but not overcooked. Rinse in cold water, and drain.
2. Add all other ingredients, including salt and pepper to taste, and toss well.

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