Read The Village by the Sea Online
Authors: Anita Desai
When the monsoon came, the girls hastily stitched together palm leaves to cover the old, ragged, thatch roof, and more to cover the doors and windows of the big house, an extra protection
against the rain that swept in from the sea and beat upon the beach and the huts night and day without stopping or slowing. The great dark monsoon clouds seemed to well out of the sea into the sky and the great waves surged wildly up to meet them, blending in one massive sheet of water that hung everywhere, on earth and in the sky.
The fishing boats were drawn up the creek that swelled with the high monsoon tides, making the boats rock and crash into each other, their sails and banners all taken down and put away so that the masts were bare against the sky. The villagers stayed in their huts as far as possible, venturing out under big black umbrellas only when they had to. The ponds and creeks filled, the fields were flooded and slushy, weeds spread rampant and frogs croaked madly through the night. Fires were smoky and the huts were damp and gloomy, the rain beating down on the thatch and leaking on to the mud floors, making everything so wet that it didn't seem possible they would ever be dry again.
With the fishermen idle, unable to go to sea in such storms, there was no fish to be had. Even the men sat plaiting ropes and thatching palm leaves,
occupations usually left to the women. Probably they drank even more toddy than at any other time of year, but Lila's father had given up drinking.
He sat outside the hospital, keeping an eye on the comings and goings of the nurses and doctors, and made sure his wife had all she needed. He smoked a small hand-held clay hookah and sat hunched on the veranda, watching the rain stream down. Lila still came loyally once a week, bringing him some of the money she had earned at
Mon Repos
so he could buy himself tobacco and tea and snacks. It was worth struggling through the rain and coming on the wet, muddy bus just to see him so sober and quiet and her mother better and brighter than she had been the week before. These visits were always very happy ones even though they all cried when they parted.
Sometimes the girls went together to the village to buy provisions. They had to wait till the rain slackened. The whole village looked shut and empty with everyone indoors.
But the fishermen could not afford to stay indoors for the three months of the monsoon. As their stocks of grain dwindled and their meals grew fewer and smaller, their families looked
pinched and hollow-cheeked. When the rain slowed down, they would go out on the beach, climb into their boats, stare at the sky and mutter to each other about the weather.
One day, when there was a lull in the rain, the heavy grey clouds lay still along the horizon and did not appear to be drawing any closer, a party of fishermen set out in their boats. Lila was coming back from the village shop with a bag of grain and saw the boats wildly tossing on the waves, their sails flapping and creaking loudly and the men hurling themselves from one side to the other in order to keep the boats steady. Old Biju, who would not risk his fine new boat at sea in this season, stood at the mouth of the creek, shouting at them.
âFools, come back! Your boats aren't built for this weather.'
âThe weather is fine, can't you see?' one of the men shouted back. âWe've had enough of sitting at home like old women.'
âYou'll be drowned,' Biju roared after the men, âand your boats wrecked,' but they only laughed, thrilled at being out at sea again.
Lila did not stop to watch any more, the sight of the small boats bucking on the waves alarmed
her and she felt uneasy. She had not been home long when she heard an ominous rumble of thunder. All night lightning flashed and thunder boomed while the coconut trees creaked and swung dangerously over their hut. The sounds of the wind and the sea were so loud that the girls hid under their cotton blankets, saying their ears ached, not admitting that they did it out of fear.
Early that morning the greatest storm of that monsoon broke. At times it seemed that their hut would be blown to splinters. Lila feared that one of the coconut trees would fall upon their roof. The water in the creek rose minute by minute, turning what had been a marsh into a lake. Bela and Kamal were beside themselves with excitement, but Lila grew quieter and quieter â she had seen the boats out at sea but she had not told them about that.
It was three days before the storm lessened and another two before the clouds parted and let through a little pale, watery sunlight. The three girls ran down to the beach to see if they could reach the rocks and offer a basket of flowers and kum-kum powder. They were standing in the waves, screaming as they grew wetter and wetter, when old Hira-
bai
from the hut behind theirs
came by on her way back from the village and stopped to tell them of the great drama of the fishing boats. The little girls were horrified, and Lila was eager to hear the details.
The boats had been lost for nearly four days. When the storm began to withdraw, a search party organized by the navy and the coastguards at Alibagh set out. Biju had insisted on accompanying them and was soon at their helm. It was he who had spotted what remained of the fishing fleet: three boats had sunk, the rest were battered and broken. Three fishermen had drowned. They rescued the rest and brought them back, starved and feverish and ill.
The men from the navy and the coastguards had praised Biju and thanked him but the fishermen had been too tired to say a word and had gone limping home.
âI told them â I told them not to go: the weather was too treacherous for those little matchstick boats,' Biju roared, standing by the creek and supervising the anchoring and tying up of their boats. This was a great day for him, the day when the prowess of his own superior boat had been proved for all to see. He was only sorry these thick-headed fishermen refused to admit it. âAdmit
it â you'll have to admit it,' he roared. âYou have to have a boat with a diesel engine for this weather â your sails will only help to drown you.'
A few of the fishermen's wives were still standing on the sand, watching and listening. One of them muttered, âYes, yes, Biju, but who can afford boats like yours?'
âOurs may be weak and useless, yes,' another agreed, âbut still â we have to eat and our men must fish.'
Biju glared, his boasting and bragging cut short. âOne day everyone will have to build boats like mine,' he growled at them. âThings have to change. Then they will improve. Yes,' he shouted as they retreated. âImprove! Change!' and stalking down the muddy bank of the creek he went to see to his own boat before leaving it to the wind and rain that had already started up again and was beginning to drum upon the wooden decks and cut rivulets through the wet sand.
Suddenly he recognized a figure amongst the knot of people still standing on the bank, watching. âYou,' he shouted, pointing at him with a thick, ringed finger. âYou there. Now do you see what a fine boat I have?' and he roared with laughter because the man who was trying to
hurry away without an answer was the watchman from the factory site who had made fun of his boat when it was being built. He had learnt better now â the villagers, their boats, their crafts were not quite so sorry as he had said they were. Of course he hated to admit it and was hurrying back to the shelter of his hut.
âYes,' Hira-
bai
chuckled as she described it all to the girls. â âIt was Biju's proudest day all right.'
âYes,' said Lila, âbut how must the other men and their wives have felt?'
Hira-
bai
lifted her hand to the sky. âJust as they have always felt, my dear.' She sighed. âLeave it to the gods â that is all we can do, leave it to the gods,' and she turned and went slowly up the beach to the line of coconut palms.
Lila, Bela and Kamal, huddled around the damp, smoking fire in their hut that night, were grateful that they could eat because of the money paid them by the gentleman in the house who was not driven away by the monsoon but stayed on and walked about in it as if he didn't notice it at all. They were grateful for his mere presence, too, in the absence of both their father and brother. Listening to the storms outside, they wondered about Hari. Why did Hari not come?
He had sent them one postcard to say he was in Bombay, safe, but why did he not return? They sat in silence, listening to the frogs clamouring in the dark and the rain sliding off the palm leaves on to their roof and dripping.
Finally, âWhen do you think Hari will come?' sighed Bela, drawing lines on the mud floor with her finger.
âHe can't come now â the ferry will have stopped for the monsoon,' said Lila, trying to sound sensible and brisk. âPerhaps he will come when the monsoon is over. Perhaps he will come at Diwali.'
âYou'll go back one day, boy, don't you worry,' Mr Panwallah said kindly. âYou've not come so far away â you can go back.'
âWhen?' said Hari wildly. âI want to go now.'
âWait till the rains are over, boy. The ferry doesn't travel to Rewas in the rainy season. When the rains are over, you can take the ferry and go back. You'll have more money saved up by then, won't you? And I'm getting stronger, I'll soon be back at the shop to teach you more about watchmending. Once you start mending watches on your own, you can collect the payment, it will be yours, not mine. Does that sound good? Eh? Then you can go back and set up as the village watchmender.'
Hari laughed at the old man's ignorance. What watches and clocks were there in his village where everyone told the time by the sun? Old Biju might have a clock but it would have rusted in the salt air, he knew, and be as useless as his television set. Still, he felt happy at the thought and was grateful to Mr Panwallah for giving it to him.
It was Mr Panwallah he had come running to see when he could not bear his longing for home any more, Mr Panwallah he had searched out and told about the lost fishing fleet. The old man had not been to the shop since he fell ill. The shutter had been drawn down ever since. But one day a customer came looking for his watch and asked Jagu next door if he knew what had happened to the old watchmender and to the watches he was supposed to be mending. Hari overheard Jagu giving him Mr Panwallah's address.
âWhat?' he cried, dropping a duster on to the floor. âWhere does he live?' It had not occurred to him that Jagu would know.
Jagu repeated the address and Hari immediately begged to be given an hour off so that he could go and visit the old man. It was not far from the shop; it was right beside the Grant Road station at the end of the road and Hari found it quite
easily. Quickly he climbed the rickety wooden staircase, past the sweet shop at street level, past the small clinic for birds and animals on the first floor, past doors with withered garlands of marigolds hanging over them and rice powder designs drawn on their thresholds to the top floor where Mr Panwallah had a tiny room and a balcony full of plants in old tins and boxes.
Here he sat on a broken cane chair, looking very white and frail â but alive and improving. He had had 'flu to begin with but it had grown worse and turned into bronchitis. His neighbours were afraid he would have to be taken to hospital but he looked so weak that they decided to let him stay in his own bed and took turns at bringing him meals and hot drinks. The doctor who lived in the flat below his had treated him free â they had been neighbours for more than fifty years: Mr Panwallah was popular in that block, much loved and even, it now was clear, much cherished. They had all been relieved when he recovered but insisted he stay at home and rest till the rainy weather was over so that he would not get wet while going to work and fall ill again. He had been delighted when Hari had burst in upon him. He had been sitting quietly, gazing out over the
sheets of corrugated iron that roofed the railway station at the pigeons that sat on it and flew up in flocks through the columns of gritty smoke every time a train came roaring in or went screeching out.
Hari found himself sitting on a stool at his feet, drinking very sweet tea from a tumbler brought up from the tea stall by an urchin who had fed and helped to look after Mr Panwallah all through his illness: there was more than one boy who was grateful to Mr Panwallah for help given at one time or another. Hari sat sipping tea and telling him all about Thul. Mr Panwallah listened with his head cocked to one side like a wise old bird, and all the time he stroked and petted the grey cat that slept curled upon his lap.
âYes,' he nodded, âsoon it will be Coconut Day, the end of the monsoon when everyone offers coconuts to the sea and the boats can safely set out again. Then you can catch your ferry home. You should never have left, boy. You shouldn't have left your mother and sisters to come here. Look how thin and sick you have grown here â tchh!'
âThere was nothing left for me to do there,' Hari explained. âMy father sold our fishing boat long ago. He sold our cow, too. I had no
work â just a small plot of land to grow vegetables in, too small. And now a big factory is going to come up in Thul, and they will take up all our land and it is said there will be no fishing or farming left to do. I had to come to Bombay to find work.'
âYou can find work anywhere,' piped Mr Panwallah, sitting up very straight and fixing his bird-like eyes on Hari. âAs long as you can use your hands,' he said, lifting up his ten spindly fingers and waggling them, âyou can find work for them. And you have to be willing to learn â and to change â and to grow. If they take away your land you will have to learn to work in their factory instead. If you can't stop it, you must learn to use it â don't be afraid!'
âOur elders say only engineers with degrees from colleges will get work there. They will not need fishermen or farmers. We will not get work.'
âHmm,' said Mr Panwallah and chewed his lip for a while. âYes, perhaps. But there will be other work, besides the factory. You can get work as a builder, or a roadmaker, when they are at a building stage. Later, the engineers and mechanics will come to live there in the new housing colonies and they will need people to work for them. They
will need food, too â vegetables and milk and fruit and eggs. You will find you can sell the vegetables you grow, and the coconuts. Perhaps you will be able to buy a cow or chickens and make a living from them. Yes, yes, yes â think about it, Hari, there will be plenty of work. They will even bring watches and clocks with them for you to repair,' he laughed, showing his pink, toothless gums. âSo your watchmending skills won't be useless after all! Perhaps one day you will own the first watch repair shop in Thul â what do you say to that?'
Hari laughed back in surprise. Why had he never thought of that himself?
âOh, Mr Panwallah,' he cried, âwhen will you come back to the shop and teach me more?'
âYes, yes, yes.' Mr Panwallah laughed, petting his old grey cat with quick little pats. âI will come and I will teach you â wait for me, don't run away so soon, boy.'
âI won't,' Hari promised. âI want to learn more.'
âGood!' cried Mr Panwallah. âThat's what I wanted to hear you say. Learn, learn, learn â so that you can grow and change. Things change all the time, boy â nothing remains the same. When our earth was covered with water, all creatures
lived in it and swam. When the water subsided and land appeared, the sea creatures crawled out and learned to breathe and walk on land. When plants grew into trees, they learned to climb them. When there were not enough plants left to eat, they learned to hunt and kill for food. Don't think that is how things have remained. No, boy, they are still changing â they will go on changing â and if you want to survive, you will have to change too. The wheel turns and turns and turns: it never stops and stands still. Look, even Bombay is not always the same. Fifty years ago there were hills, gardens, beautiful palaces and villas where you now see slums, shops, traffic, crowds. Once I lived in a villa with a garden and roses and fountains â now I live in a pigeon roost over a railway station!' He cackled with laughter as though it were all a great joke. âSo Hari the fisherman, Hari the farmer will have to become Hari the poultry farmer or Hari the watchmender!'
Hari beamed to see Mr Panwallah so excited and lively. If he was so much better, he would surely come back to the shop soon and start teaching Hari again. Hari knew he still had much to learn.
âYou are lucky,' Mr Panwallah twinkled at him, sinking back into his chair. âYou are young. You can change and learn and grow. Old people can't, but you can. I know you will.'
And so the wheel turned again, just as Mr Panwallah had said it would, and things got better just as earlier they had got worse. The rain slowed to a drizzle. Mr Panwallah came back to open his shop, looking very pale and fragile but full of eagerness to take up work again: he had so much work piled up that Hari had to spend more time helping him and less and less time in the eating house.
Jagu did not seem to mind. He did not seem to want to see so much of Hari or talk to him after that visit to his house that had proved so unfortunate. Perhaps he was sorry Hari had met his wife and family and seen how they lived. It made him look away from Hari and simply nod or grunt when Hari asked for permission to spend a few hours at Mr Panwallah's.
Hari did not, after all, go up the hill to the tall block of flats where the de Silvas lived. He felt he
could not bear the shame and humiliation of finding his way into it and asking for work. He was no longer the frightened, confused boy who crawled into any hole where he could find shelter and protection. He knew he could make choices and decisions now. He did not really wish to live in a rich man's house as a servant. He felt he would only make a fool of himself, break the glass and china, leave dirty finger and footprints on shining surfaces, show his ignorance over such things as lifts, doorbells, telephones and cars. He was not a city boy and he did not want to become one. Ever since he had heard the news on the radio of the fishing boats lost at sea and felt as disturbed as if his own boats were lost, or his own father and brothers, he had known that he belonged to Thul and that he would go back. It was wonderful to be able to choose what you wanted to do in life, and choose he would.
âI will go back after the rains are over,' he told Jagu. âI had better tell you now in case you want to find someone to take my place.'
Jagu only nodded and looked away. âWhen?' he mumbled.
âAfter Coconut Day,' said Hari. âSome time after Coconut Day.'
âStay till Diwali,' Jagu muttered, looking down at the dirty table-top and drumming on it nervously. âThen my brother will come from my village to help me. Till then, stay.'
Hari wanted to refuse: he had not planned to stay so long, but he could not protest. Jagu had been so good to him, had given him food and shelter and saved his life, even tried to make him one of his family although that had not been so successful: he could not refuse. He quietly picked up the dirty plates from the table and took them away to wash.
âJagu won't let me go till Diwali,' he told Mr Panwallah unhappily.
âNo?' cried Mr Panwallah. âOh, don't look so gloomy, boy. Diwali will be here before you know it. Look up at the sky â the clouds are rolling away, Coconut Day will be here soon! And then it will be Diwali next. So many festivals, one after the other. I think it is a good idea â to go home at Diwali, the best day in the whole year. Till then, you can stay here and learn â I have so much to teach you still. You did that watch I gave you yesterday perfectly: when the owner comes to fetch it, I will make him pay
you
for it. But there is more to learn. Look at this watch that has come
from Japan. Electronic. See, in my old age I have to learn about a new kind of watch. You can learn, too. Sit down. Wipe your hands. I am going to open it now â look â' and they both peered into the mysterious insides of the watch, studying its tiny parts that worked so perfectly.
While they worked, Hari said, âMr Panwallah, you celebrate Coconut Day and Diwali and yet you are not a Hindu, are you? I thought you are a Parsee and celebrate only the Parsee festivals.'
âOh no, no, no, boy,' cried Mr Panwallah comically. âWhat would be the fun of that? And why should I miss the fun of all the Hindu and Muslim festivals? No, no, I believe in sharing everything, enjoying everything. That is why I have so much fun, eh? No gloom for me, eh?'
They were still happily working at the Japanese watch when the owner of the Rolex that Hari had repaired came along for it and Mr Panwallah told him to pay Hari and not him. The man looked a bit puzzled but handed over a ten rupee note to Hari at Mr Panwallah's request. Hari stood staring at the note: he suddenly felt he was not a child any longer, that he was a man. So when Mr Panwallah cried, âWell, aren't you pleased? Won't you smile?' he could not. He
nodded and put the money away in his pocket very carefully.