Read Under the Sun Online

Authors: Bruce Chatwin

Under the Sun (38 page)

Yes. Of course Mandelstam, in poetry, but more so in prose, is one of my gods. I have just written an introduction – a memory of his widow
480
– to his
Journey to Armenia
. I have had you sent a copy of the magazine in which it has appeared, though I haven't seen it yet and dread the mistakes. Don't be too put off by its ridiculous name – BANANAS. It was started by a friend of mine
481
as a one-issue joke to put down a rival, the
New Review
. The first issue was so successful, she got an Arts Council grant and now she's stuck with the name.
No. I don't think I'll go to Australia in the winter. Someone is Australian and the point is somehow missing. I am supposed to go to New York in October, that is, if this piece of mediocrity is done with. But after that, in theory at least, I'm free to float. I have a number of short stories to finish: then I want to travel for a couple of years, trying to put all my efforts into that form. I feel that Eastern (Post-Marxist) Europe would provide wonderful material.
Yes. Of course I'll go on a journey with you. Where? India? Further West or Further East? With nothing but ourselves? No impediments? No ‘other men's books'? Only notebooks.
The Wolf Boy article comes out next week in the
Sunday Times
Magazine. Of course they were much more pleased with that one than Mrs G[andhi]. My slight rows over Mrs G (which I don't want talked about) were concerned with the fact that I wrote down only what I saw, not what other people say. They seemed to want a lot of opinion, of hot air, of pontificating. All I wanted to do was to get down some of the woman's banality. When I read it to people, it was complete news to them. Most Westerners picture her as a cunning, devious schemer only (which of course she is) without getting a glimmer of her fatuous side. Anyway, unless it comes out soon, events will have superceded it. What's happening? I do hope the prosecutions aren't a panic move only. It'd be dreadful to have her back.
No. My smile would not be cryptic or dismissing, but open, cheerful and rather hopeful. I do wish you were here – or I there?
Let me know your plans. The trouble with London, for me, is that I have absolutely nowhere to stay.
XXXXXX B
 
PS If you know of anyone going to Kerala, can they bring some of the plain cotton lunghis – with coloured stripes.
To Sunil Sethi
Apartado 73 | Ronda | Malaga | Spain | [July 1978]
 
Dear S.,
The last letter was scribbled off in indecent haste: I doubt this one will be much better. The technical problems of letter writing here are as follows: I get up at sunrise at eight; over coffee I sit out on a semicircular terrace, contemplate the mountains opposite, and the hideous glazed pottery busts of a nymph and the Infant Bacchus on the arched portico: then settle down to work. Four and a half hours brings me to 12.30 and letter writing time if I am to catch the post which closes at 2. I leave the house at 1, bounce down the mountain in my little Fiat and zig-zag up the other side of Ronda, which perches on the top of a sheer cliff and looks like an iced cake. I unlock the aluminium PO Box, usually empty and hurtle to the market, which also closes at 2. Twice I have had a fight with the local condessa (a Southern Rhodesian called Faffie) as to who shall have the last lettuce. Then to a bar in a side street which has magnificent
tapas
(hors d'oeuvres) which I make into lunch. The other day I had a raw clam and was violently sick in the middle of the night. The proprietor is a fantastical, red haired queen, with draperies of white flesh hanging from his upper arms. I have seen him smile once, when the bar was full of soldiers.
Then usually I go for a swim at the pool of a friend called Magouche Phillips. She is an old friend, magnificent, stylish, the daughter of a US Admiral: her name was once Agnes MacGruder, that is, until she worked for Edgar Snow's ‘Support Mao' campaign in New York in the 'forties, met the painter Arshile Gorky and married him. She still lives off the contents of the studio, is haunted by Gorky's suicide and quarrels frantically with all but one of her four daughters. One of these is married to the son of Stephen Spender, lives in Tuscany and is the most dangerous gossip I know (though I love her). Matthew Spender, a painter, has the mentality of an over-opinionated curate. A second daughter is married to a Chinese nature-freak in New York: a third (not by Gorky) to a really tiresome ‘hope' of British philosophy: the fourth is an angel who will be here next month.
So the afternoon is usually spent bellyaching about Magouche's children. Then I look in on two peasants who keep the house, Curro and Incarna, who keep me in onions, raspberries, cucumbers. They live in a spotless white house shaded by walnut trees in the bottom of the valley. Then I try to work for another three hours, but can rarely get much done other than prepare notes for the next day.
After that cook dinner. Last night disgusting experiment with spices bought in Morocco. Then read Flaubert, Racine or Turgenev if I'm up to it: Maupassant or Babel if my eyes start to flutter.
Will you please cable me if any of your European plans are crystallising? Sorry to be insistent, but one or two people may be imploding on me and you are emphatically first on the list. As I have said, all you have to do to get here is to go to my travel agent, John Ferer, 54 Shepherd Market, London WI and they will get you the ticket for Malaga, but you must say if you want to go back from there by plane or train, which takes some time, but is not a hardship, via Madrid and Paris. You must also think, enquire whether you need visas for Spain etc. I imagine you do: some Moroccans were kicked off the boat at Tangier for not having them.
Also you must tell me if you want me to write one of those shameful TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN letters to cope with the UK customs. HH of Jodpur
482
had a terrible time getting through immigration: a lot of sneering ‘Oh! Yes's?' when he tried to give them the Eton and King's number. Going with anyone through the British customs makes me writhe with shame.
What I mean by a Kerala lunghi (I think I mean a Calicut lunghi) is a piece of plain white thin cotton about five feet by four with plain coloured bands two inches deep or less, preferably green, running along the upper and lower edges and set in from the sides. Also a pair of those Gujarati sandals, English size 9½-10, but don't bother with anything else. My shirt, made up from the Benares tussore, should be ready by the time I reach London.
And now it's one already and I must think of going. Today I am salesman for Curro's raspberries to the ex-patriate colony. I seem to be able to get him twice what the wholesaler gives him: the English ladies will settle down this evening to making raspberry jam.
Have procrastinated about what to say next for five minutes and I
must
go.
all love, B
To Keith Milow
Apartado 73 | Ronda | Malaga | Spain | [summer 1978]
 
My dear K.,
483
Your letter came on a morning when I was quite unable to work: the Levante is blowing hot, white wind from the Sahara and my head is spinning. Added to the horrors of a meal in Ronda last night which gave me a liver attack.
Otherwise all is well: the Flaubertian conte is progressing
pero muy lentamente
. I might just manage to finish its hundred or so pages by the end of the year. What I had estimated at three months will be at least six, but that's the usual story. Yet imagine the
Chartreuse de Parme
484
being written in eleven weeks and packed off to the publisher without need of corrections!
On the subject of Flaubert, read
Un Coeur Simple
, in French, or at least with a French text in hand. Best thing written in the 19th century – and ours?
Don't quite know what to do when the lease of this house runs out in late October. Whether to gruel on, or seek a change of scene. I had hoped to be in NY by November 1st. Hope dashed.
I too am impatient to see the crosses: there is no doubt in my mind you are the best artist of your generation in England: that those concrete crosses had the look of real grandeur (in the best sense); and that if (and I hope you'll forgive this) you keep away from all the slick and sleazy techniques of the photographer's studio, you have the makings of a great artist. So there! Don't flap too much about the critics either – and never try to please them – and don't even complain about them (it isn't worth it). The function of an artist is to work for a) himself b) to leave something memorable for the future, to shore up the ruins. Fuck the rest of them! However, I confess to a sneaking pleasure by a card I got yesterday from Jan Morris
485
saying that my description of the Welsh in Patagonia ‘actually moved him/her to tears'.
I also confess to wearing a blue shirt belonging to you: you'll get it back one day.
Give my love to Kynaston
486
and say I'll hope to see him soon. Anyone else there as well.
all love, Bruce
To Ivry Freyberg
Apartado 73 | Ronda | Malaga | Spain | 26 July 1978
 
Many thanks for enthusiastic note. Came at a good moment when I was in an impasse with the new book. Oh! what a mess! Have rented exquisite neo-classical pavilion on beautiful hillside, elegantissimo, but this week have been frying. Wish you could come here. Masses of room. Much love to all especially the godson, B
To Alison Oxmanton
Apartado 73 | Ronda | Malaga | Spain | 26 July 1978
 
My dear Ali,
I hope this catches you at Birr: E. said you'd be there the whole of August. I am sitting out the summer writing about your old stamping ground, Dahomey,
487
on a beautiful Andalucian hillside. The house – pavilion, I should say – that I have rented belongs to an Argentine friend of your friend Christopher Balfour, whose name figures prominently in the visitor's book. I do wish you'd come and put in a few days here on your way back to Algiers. It really isn't too far round – and none at all if you go by land and across the Straits.
I'm going to try and come and visit you during the winter, for a protracted stay, if you don't mind (you don't have to put me up). I have always been fascinated by the country of Camus, and some years ago I did a story for the
Sunday Times
about an Algerian who murdered a bus conductor in Marseilles.
488
At the time it put me in quite good odour with the regime, despite the bad things I said about it, for my full outrage was directed at the French and in particular the City and Mayor of Marseilles. Algiers is one of the oddest places I've ever been, but full of literary possibilities, and the fact that you are now there makes it all the more inviting.
Perhaps we could take a trip to the South?
All my best to Brendan and the Rosses, and do let me know if you're passing. Planes can be met from Malaga.
Much love, Bruce
To Derek Hill
Apartado 73 | Ronda | Malaga | Spain | 1 August 1978
 
On the strength of a rather meagre Argentine royalty I've rented a Neo-Classical pavilion of great elegance on the hillside opposite Ronda. Slogging away slowly at a book. E has gone to Geneseo to try and restrain Gertrude from building a large sub-Lutyens mansion which would be another Sweet Briar Farm but much more expensive. Do come here. Much love, Bruce
To Francis Wyndham
Apartado 73 | Ronda | Malaga | Spain | 1 August 1978
 
Dear Francis,
After a nightmarish week in the Pyrenees, humid valleys screaming with French children, I spent all the money I've got renting a Neo-Classical ‘pavillion' on a high, dry hillside.
Mr da Silva is once again progressing – or at least moving forward – though it's hard to predict what the end result will be. Looking back on the past few, extremely frustrating months – I can see they weren't quite so weird after all. I do have slightly clearer ideas about how it should be.
I'm completely out of touch here: no phone, no newspapers: BUT somebody told me last night that the
Sunday Times
is in full crisis. I can't say I'm too surprised – or for that matter sorry. But do let me know what's happening. Also when and if Mrs Gandhi is coming out.
I am going to stick it out here until October at least: by which time I'll either be finished or in need of a change. After that, who knows/Australia?
Peter Eyre
489
and I had a lovely evening in Paris seeing a bad production of
Phèdre
in the open air. In a Hotel in the Marais. A lunch with Sonia Orwell. My God, she's brittle. I hope I didn't offend when I suggested that English lawyers always take you for a ride.
As always, Bruce
Of course, if there were any logic in the world, you, James and Chloe
490
would take advantage of cheap flights to Malaga and come here for a holiday. There are three deluxe bedrooms. B
To Margharita Chatwin
Apartado 73 | Ronda | Malaga | Spain | 17 August 1978
 
Dear M.,
Often I can't think what I'm doing in this overelaborate house: it has fountains, potted palms, arcades, some hideous statuary, a wonderful view and every comfort but electricity. The last wouldn't matter if the days weren't so hot and lethargic. I feel quite lively at night. I've tried working to the light of a butagas lamp, but the thing overheats so much you're back where you started, feeling lethargic again.
Nevertheless, I believe the book
may
be finished one day. This, I might say, I have [not] believed before: so that is already an advance. The technical problems have been for me so colossal: how to string so many disparate facts and ideas into the life of one man,
and
carry the reader sailing from page to page. It will also be extremely small. I doubt if it'll print up to much more than a hundred pages. But then I've never liked long books myself, so I don't see why I should try and write them myself. Unless you're Tolstoy, most of the ‘great books' of the world should have been cut in half.

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