What Einstein Kept Under His Hat: Secrets of Science in the Kitchen (51 page)

The best way to avoid chocolate bloom is to consume all chocolate as soon as it comes within reach. That’s my method.

                        

THE GRINCH WHO STOLE CHOCOLATE

                        

In health-food stores I have seen chocolate bars made out of carob, presumably to avoid the fat and caffeine in ordinary chocolate. What, exactly, is carob?

....

H
ere we go, from the sublime to the ridiculous.

First of all, contrary to common belief, chocolate doesn’t contain much caffeine at all. A square (one ounce) of unsweetened baking chocolate averages 23 milligrams of caffeine, while a cup of coffee might contain more than 100 milligrams. An ounce of unsweetened chocolate does contain 376 milligrams of theobromine, however, an alkaloid closely related to caffeine but a milder stimulant.

The leguminous carob tree (
Ceratonia siliqua
), also known since biblical times as the locust bean tree, grows in relatively arid, semitropical climates such as in California, Florida, and the eastern Mediterranean region. Its pods have been dubbed Saint John’s bread because the Bible says that John the Baptist survived in the wilderness by eating “locusts and honey.” In spite of the Bible’s preoccupation elsewhere with locusts (the word appears twenty-nine times in the King James version), it is more likely that John munched on locust
beans
rather than on the insects.

Locust bean gum, which appears in many food ingredient lists, is a tasteless, mucilaginous polysaccharide thickener obtained from the carob’s seeds. It is used to thicken frozen desserts, cultured dairy products, cream cheese, and other foods. It interacts with the other vegetable gums xanthin and carrageenan to form rigid gels, and is therefore rarely used alone.

So where does chocolate come in? The carob tree makes long, edible, seed-bearing pods that can be dried and ground into a powder. Because the powder is brown, sweet (it contains about 40 percent sugars), and virtually fat-free, someone got the not-so-bright idea of using it as a substitute for chocolate. Unfortunately, because it lacks chocolate’s fat it has a sandy, gritty texture, not to mention an almost total absence of flavor.

Carob is the Grinch who stole chocolate. Fuhgeddaboudit.

WE HAVE ARRIVED
at the last course in our feast of knowledge: our dessert. We’ll conclude, then, with recipes for two sweet treats, a classic one and an off-beat one.

The classic one is a
ganache
, a blend of the two most luxuriant ingredients in our epicurean armamentarium: chocolate and whipping cream. In essence a marriage of two fats, cocoa butter and butterfat, ganache on a menu is not for the faint of
carte
. Rarely billed by its own name, it might be concealed as the frosting on a cake or the filling between its layers. Or it might be the center of a truffle. Wherever it appears, ganache is the definitive chocolate
crème
, and you know that when cream is spelled the French way, it’s gotta be good.

Our offbeat concluding confection is a grilled chocolate sandwich. Yes, a sandwich. Bread and all. Any time you’re in the mood for a soul-nourishing nosh, you can quickly whip up the cacao gods’ answer to the grilled cheese sandwich.

I hate it when a restaurant server says, “Enjoy.”

But enjoy!

                           

Ganache

                           

A
ganache is a mixture of melted chocolate and heated heavy cream, blended together until very smooth. The relative amounts of the two ingredients may vary, but equal amounts give good results and are easy to remember. Ganache is often cooled and shaped into balls to form the soft centers for truffles. Here, lukewarm ganache is poured over a cake to make a smooth and luscious shiny glaze.

For a 1-layer 8- or 9-inch round cake, you will need about 1 cup ganache. Use the leftover ganache as a sauce for poached pears, ice cream, or other dessert. It will keep for up to 2 months in a well-covered container in the refrigerator—if you can keep from eating it with a spoon, that is.

8  ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1  cup heavy cream

1.
    Put the chopped chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl.

2.
    In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and whisk gently until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Allow to cool to warm.

3.
    Place a cool 8- or 9-inch cake layer on a rack over a baking sheet or a piece of foil. Pour the warm ganache over the cake and use a metal icing spatula to coax and spread it over the top of the cake and down the sides. Let the iced cake set for about 1 hour before serving.

MAKES 1
1
/
2
CUPS

                        

Grilled Chocolate Sandwich

                        

T
his sandwich makes a surprising and delicious dessert, afternoon snack, or indulgent breakfast. It is a semi-incestuous marriage, if you will, of transatlantic cousins, the American grilled cheese sandwich with the French
pain au chocolat
. In the latter
pâtisserie
classic,
batons
of chocolate are wrapped in rectangles of flaky pastry.

Bob and I prefer dark chocolate, but you can make yours with milk chocolate if you wish.

2    teaspoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

2    slices plain white or sourdough bread, each about
1
/
2
inch thick or less

1    ounce bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1.
    Spread 1 teaspoon softened butter on 1 side of each slice of bread. Place 1 slice, butter side down, in the center of a small, cold nonstick skillet. Carefully scatter the chocolate over the surface of the bread to within
1
/
4
inch of the edge. Top with the other slice of bread, buttered side up, to make a sandwich.

2.
    Place the skillet over medium-high heat. Put a flat weight, such as a small plate, on top of the sandwich. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the bottom slice is lightly browned. The chocolate should be barely melted, not oozing out the sides. Turn the sandwich over and cook for about 2 minutes longer, or until the second side is browned.

3.
    Remove the sandwich to a plate, cut into quarters, and serve warm.

SERVES 1 OR 2 INDULGENTLY

PLEASE NOTE:
Nowhere in this book have I used the word
myriad
.

                              

INDEX

                              

accessory fruits, 149

achiote, 314

acid(s)

     color of tea and, 13, 14

     dissolving calcium in bones with, 312–13

     fatty.
see
fatty acids (FAs)

     importance in cooking, 251

     in marinades, 288–89

     to minimize enzymatic browning of fruit, 155

     in olive oil, 177–78

     as preservatives, 375

     protein denaturation by, 249–51

     solubility of tannins and, 7

     
see also
specific acids

acid-base indicators

     anthocyanins as, 47

     tannins as, 13–14

acrolein, 174

actin, 271

activated charcoal, 370–71

active sites, of enzymes, 12

advanced meat recovery (AMR) systems, 273–74

Afilalo, Jonathan, 19

age bloom, on chocolate, 440–41

aggregate fruits, 148–49

aging

     of cheese, 77

     of eggs, 106

     of wines for Sherry, 30–31

air

     as conductor of heat, 404

     in ice cream, 68

airport security x-rays, inability to kill insects and parasites, 376

aji,
334

alcohol(s), 177

     sugar, 233–34

     types of, 22–23

Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (ATB), 36

alcohol, ethyl

     to cool heat from capsaicins, 337

     flavor release by, 313–15

     mixed with water, 313–15

alcoholic beverages, 4

     regulating amount imbibed, 43–46

     
see also
specific beverages

aldehydes, 177, 315

alkali(s), 7n

     in black olive production, 185

     color of tea and, 13, 14

     in dishwasher detergent, 376

     lime as.
see
lime (calcium oxide)

     in oil production, 162

     role in cooking, 251

     thousand-year-old eggs and, 106

     in vegetable cooking water, 112

     in water used to soak dried beans, 144

alkalinity, 6, 7n

alkaloids, in chili peppers, 334

alkyl dimethylbenzy ammonium chloride, 116

alkylthiosulfonates, 340–41

allicin, 343

alliin, 343

alliinase, 126

allyl isothiocyanate, 336, 358

allyl trisulfide, 345

alpha-galactosidase, 142

Althaea officinalis,
427

aluminum

     discoloration and corrosion in dishwasher, 376–78

     emissivity of, 399

American sea scallops, 262

amino groups, 297

ammonia, odor of, in fish, 347

Amontillados, 30

amphoteric substances, 369, 377

AMR (advanced meat recovery) systems, 273–74

amygdalin, 423

amylase, in honey, 236

amylopectin starches, 204–5

anacardic acid, in cashews, 201

anandamide, in chocolate, 433

anchos, 335

angel hair pasta, 221, 222

angular momentum, 97

angular velocity, 97

anions, 14

annatto seeds, 314

anthocyanins, 13–14, 47, 109, 110

anthoxanthins, 109, 117

antimicrobials, as preservatives, 374

antioxidants, 175

     in cattle feed, 279

     in honey, 237

     as preservatives, 375

Apiadeae, 327

Apicus, Marcus Gavius, 234

apple(s), floating in water, 191–92

apple brandy, 197–98

apple cider, 194–95

applejack, 197, 198

apple juice, 194–95

     fermented, 195, 196–98

     filtering of, 195

     pasteurization of, 195

apple wine, 197

arborio rice, 212–13

Argopecten gibbus,
262

Argopecten irradians,
262

Arm & Hammer, 368, 370

ascorbic acid, as preservative, 375

Aspergillus oryzae,
138

astaxanthin, 240

ATB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau), 36

Atlantic blue mussels, 253, 254

aubergines,
266

autocatalytic reactions, 151

avocados

     ripening of, 150

     wasabi guacamole, 360

BAC (blood alcohol concentration), 44–45

bacteria

     in buttermilk, 63

     in butter production, 83–84

     converting nitrate to nitrite, 283

     good and bad, 77

     meat spoilage and, 278

     multiplication of, 311

     nitrites to inhibit growth of, 283

     nitrogen-fixing, 143

     rotting of eggs by, 101

     spores formed by, 310–12, 346

     toxins produced by, 311

     warm water as breeding ground for, 303

     in yogurt production, 60–61, 62

     
see also
specific bacteria

baker’s dozen, 417

bakeware

     oven temperature and, 400–401

     silicone, 405–8

baking

     of beignets soufflés, 165

     in brick ovens, 395–97

     pizza stones for, 395–97

     substituting olive oil for butter in, 184

     
see also
ovens; oven temperature

baking chocolate, 433

baking soda

     to keep refrigerator smelling fresh, 368–71

     in vegetable cooking water, 112

     in water used to soak dried beans, 144

bananas

     plantains distinguished from, 157

     ripening of, calories and, 156–57

Bananas Byczewski, 158–59

Bananas Foster, 157, 158

B[a]P (benzo[a]pyrene), 323

barbecue sauce, Jack Daniel’s rib-ticklin,’ 38

barbecuing, grilling differentiated from, 317

bases, 6n

     
see also
alkali(s)

basmati rice, 213

Bass, Black, Miso-Glazed, 139–40

Batter Bread, Beer, 26

bay scallops, 262

bean(s)

     dried, cooking, 145–46

     dried, soaking, 144–46

     intestinal gas caused by, 141–42

Beano, 142

beard, of mussels, 252

beef

     ground, color of, 275–79

     ground, odor of, 276

     Marinated Skirt Steak Fajitas, 294–95

     stock, 306

beer, 24–25

Beer Batter Bread, 26

Beignets Soufflés, 164–65

bell peppers, 335

benzo[a]pyrene (B[a]P), 323

benzoates, as preservatives, 374

benzoyl peroxide, bleaching of flour with, 217

berries, 148

Best Damn Cheesecake, 71–72

betalains, 110

BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), 175, 375

BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), 175, 375

bicarbonate of soda.
see
baking soda

Big Green Egg, 320, 321

binge drinking, 43

Bi-O-Kleen Produce Wash, 114

Birdseye, Clarence, 373–74

birefringence, 282

bitterness, in cucumbers, 130–31

bixin, 314

Black Bass, Miso-Glazed, 139–40

black-body radiators, 399

black olives, 185

black pepper, 333

     in Spicy Chocolate Crinkle Monsters, 329

black tea, 10–11

Blangé, Paul, 158

bleach, chlorine.
see
chlorine bleach

bleaching

     of flour, 217–18

     of oils, 162

Blistered Wild Salmon, 241

blood alcohol concentration (BAC), 44–45

bloom, on chocolate, 440–41

bomba
rice, 213

bones

     dissolving calcium in, 312–13

     dry roasting for stock, 304

bottarga,
247–48

botulin toxin, 311, 346

     
see also
Clostridium botulinum

botulism, 283, 346

     infantile, 237

     
see also
Clostridium botulinum

bourbon, 36

     lowering of freezing point of water by, 39–40

Bourbon vanilla, 364

bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), 274

Boy Scouts, 429

braising, 295–98

brandy, apple, 197–98

Brassicaceae, 327

bread(s)

     Beer Batter Bread, 26

     bleaching of flour for, 217

     Citrus Brioche Loaf, 182–83

     to cool heat from capsaicins, 337

breath testing, for blood alcohol concentration, 44

Brennan, Owen, 158

brick ovens, 395–97, 399

Brie cheese, 73–74, 77

Brioche Loaf, Citrus, 182–83

British thermal units (Btu’s), 386–87

broiled polenta slices, 229

broiling, 390–93

browning, “old-age,” 278

browning reactions

     brown appearance due to, 302

     caramelization (sugar), 299, 341

     enzymatic, 155–56, 299, 375

     Maillard (sugar-amine).
see
Maillard reactions

brown stocks, 303–4

Brucella,
77

brucellosis, 75, 77

BSE (bovine spongiform encephalopathy), 274

Btu’s (British thermal units), 386–87

buckled cans, 312

buckwheat flour, 219–20

bulging cans, 312

butchering, 272–73

butter

     composition of, 82–83, 84

     finishing sauces with, 82–83

butter (
continued
)

     flavor of, 84

     production of, 83–84

     rancid, 173–74, 369

     storing, 372

     substituting olive oil for, in baking, 184

butterfat

     in cream, 52–59

     in ice cream, 66

     in milk, 52–55

buttermilk, bacteria in, 63

butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), 175, 375

butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), 175, 375

butyric acid, in rancid butter, 173, 369

byssus,
of mussels, 252

cacao beans, 432

cacao butter, 433

cacao fat, in chocolate, 432, 433

cacao liquor (cacao mass; cacao paste), 432–33

cacao solids, 433

Caesar, Julius, 235

caffeine

     in chocolate, 441

     in tea, 15

cakes

     Sponge, Fresh Orange, 88–89

     testing for doneness, 402

calcium carbonate, 232

calcium chloride, in salt, 362

calcium oxide (lime), 232

     in
masa harina
production, 231

calcium propionate, as preservative, 374

calcium sulfate, curdling of soy milk by, 136

calories

     in bananas, 156–57

     Btu’s (British thermal units) and, 386

     chemist’s versus nutritionist’s definition of, 21

     in cottage cheese, 70

     digestibility of carbohydrates and, 224–25

     fat in milk and, 54

     in yogurt, 60

Calvados, 198

Camembert, 76

cancer.
see
carcinogens

candies, pillowcase sweets, 58–59

candling of eggs, 91, 94

cans, bulging or buckled, 312

canthaxanthin, in salmon, 240

capellini,
221, 222

caproic acid, 369

caprylic acid, 369

capsaicin, 334

capsaicinoids, 334–35, 337, 351

capsicum(s), 328, 333–35

Capsicum annuum,
333, 354

Capsicum annuum var. aviculare,
335

caramelization

     Maillard reactions versus, 299

     misuse of term when applied to onions, 341

carbohydrates, 203–6

     complex, 204–5, 224

     digestibility of, 224–25

     digestible (net), 205

     
see also
cellulose; starches; sugar(s)

carbon dioxide, dissolved, escape from liquids, 33

carbon monoxide

     poisoning by, 242–43

     production of, 244

     tuna treated with, 243–44

carbonyl groups, 297

carcinogens

     nitrosamines as, 283

     in smoke, 323–24, 356

cardol, in cashews, 201

Caribbean “vanilla,” 366

Carlos V, King of Spain, 355

carob, as chocolate substitute, 441–42

carotenoids, 109, 110, 240

carrots, discoloration of, 117

carvone, 336

casein, micelles in, 62

cashew nuts, raw, 200–201

Cassatt, Mary, 58

cassowary eggs, 99

catalysis, 12

caustic soda, see sodium hydroxide (caustic soda; lye)

cayenne peppers, 335

     insects in, 352–53

cellulose, 206, 223, 225

     burning of, 324

Celsius, Anders, 388

Celsius scale, conversion between Fahrenheit scale and, 388–89

Ceratonia siliqua,
441

chai, 9

chalazae, in eggs, 102

Champagne, leftover, saving, 33–34

charcoal

     activated, 370–71

     briquettes, 318–19

     lump, 317, 318

     to prevent flatulence with beans, 142

charcoal grills, gas grills versus, 316–20

chelating agents, 375

cheese

     production of, 75–78

     
see also
specific types of cheese

chicken

     Sherry-Browned, with Garlic, 32

     stock, 306

     in Ultimate Oven Paella, 258–60

chile(s),
334

chili pepper(s), 333–35

     keeping of flavor by, 348

     measuring heat of, 335

Chili Pepper Hash Browns, 339–40

chilling.
see
cooling; refrigeration; temperature

Chinese rice, 213

chlorine bleach

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