A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (34 page)

Cacio e Pepe Popcorn

CACIO E PEPE POPCORN
MAKES ABOUT 10 CUPS
Growing up, my sister and I were popcorn fiends. We popped it fresh, doused it in melted butter, and grabbed handful after handful while parked in front of the TV. Inspired by one of Italy’s greatest pastas,
cacio e pepe
, I make a fresh-popped bowl of hot, crunchy popcorn lightly coated in salty cheese and the bite of freshly ground black pepper. If you’re sharing with kids, you may want to portion out their servings before adding the black pepper. I do this for my daughter Stella, who is sensitive to all things spicy. This is easily doubled for a crowd or halved for a couple of people.

As if the artificial flavor of store-bought microwave popcorn isn’t bad enough, now there’s “popcorn lung”—a type of lung cancer associated with chronic exposure to a chemical compound that adds artificial butter flavor to microwave popcorn. Heat from the microwave stirs up the compound, and it gets into the steam that people love to inhale when opening the bag. Do that enough over a long period of time and popcorn lung could be your future.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ cup organic popcorn kernels
½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1
In a large high-sided pot with a tight-fitting lid, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over high heat. Drop in a couple of kernels. When those pop, add the rest of the kernels, cover, and shake the pot so the kernels get coated in oil. Continue shaking back and forth over the burner until the popping slows down, 3 to 4 minutes.
2
Pour the hot popcorn (it needs to be hot or the cheese won’t stick) into a large bowl and quickly add the Pecorino, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, a pinch of salt, and a heavy shower of black pepper. Use your hands to toss everything together. Dig in immediately.
SWEETS
AS A RECOVERING
SUGAR JUNKIE
, I know eating sweets is a slippery slope. My relentless taste for sugar is as powerful as any craving for caffeine or nicotine and has led to some pretty hedonistic behavior. I started my sugar addiction early in life, nabbing Oreos, blueberry Pop-Tarts, and any sort of Entenmann’s baked goods while at friends’ houses (my mom never kept this stuff around). Pepperidge Farm Geneva cookies were a particularly good score—to this day, those buttery, chocolate-covered cookies are my kryptonite. At Hearth, I frequently caved based solely on the scent of fresh-baked cakes, cookies, or bread, and was all too fond of the small bowls of ice cream and sorbet constantly available in our pastry department. It was always nibbles here and there, so it never felt out of control (not counting the late-night sleeves of Chips Ahoy, which I considered an occasional “treat”).
Years of this full-on sugar assault, paired with my overdosing on pasta and bread, inevitably led to crazy-high blood sugar and prediabetes. The harsh reality of having these issues is that I had to go to the extreme of quitting sugar cold turkey in order to reverse it. Besides the mindless bites of ice cream and cookies, that included ditching honey, maple
syrup, and even some high-sugar fruits. I realized then just how much sugar dominated my diet. It found its way into everything, it seemed.
Now that my blood sugar is in check, sweets are back in my life. I find it unrealistic and unsustainable to maintain a ban on them forever. Sweets are a fundamental part of holidays, celebrations, and my career. I don’t want to miss out on baking pies alongside my mom and my aunt at Thanksgiving or sharing in my daughters’ birthday cakes. It seems like every important life event comes with a little bit of celebratory sugar.
Sentimental attachments aside, extreme food restrictions are notorious for backfiring. Everyone needs a little indulgence—you just have to be smart about it. I’ve wised up to the ways of thoughtful splurging, and it starts with the obvious: limiting processed sweets that pile on white flour, high fructose corn syrup, white sugar, agave syrup, and other types of highly refined sugars whose body-punishing effects go far beyond weight gain. Something remarkable happens when you ease up on these sugars. It’s like hitting reset on your taste buds. You develop a sensitivity to sweetness and begin to notice the natural sugars in fruit and vegetables that never resonated on your palate before because it was dulled by excessive amounts of refined sweeteners.
As a result, I enjoy desserts a lot more when I control the quantity and quality of sugar (and flour, eggs, and milk) in them. I love the deeper, nuanced sweetness of natural sugars like honey, maple syrup, and coconut palm sugar. Coconut palm sugar is great because it’s granulated and can be used cup for cup in place of white sugar. It gives another dimension of flavor to many of the desserts here, including
Coconut Cacao Cardamom Panna Cotta
and
Sweet Brown Rice Pudding
. In place of all-purpose white flour, I often use whole-grain flours and nut meals, like the hazelnut meal that dials up the flavor in
Hazelnut Brownies
and oat flour, which adds more chewy texture to
Oatmeal and Dark Chocolate Cookies
. If you don’t have oat flour and you’re in desperate need of cookies (hey, it happens), just buzz up rolled oats in a blender until they reach a coarse flour consistency. Works like a charm.
None of these upgrades will make dessert a healthy food essential to everyday life—that’s not the point of dessert, anyway—but they do make sweet indulgences less taxing on your body. Most important, the desserts here taste as lusty and decadent and even more gratifying than their nutrient-bankrupt counterparts from store-bought dough logs or sacks of white flour and sugar. These sweets are an unapologetic pleasure.
SPICED APPLE, PEAR, AND
CRANBERRY CRUMBLE
SERVES 6
For a foolproof dessert, look no further than crumbles. They’re simple, forgiving, adaptable to most fruits, and generally a dessert that everyone is excited to dig into. Most people want the serving that has a monstrous mound of topping, so I make sure no one gets shorted—this crumble is blanketed corner to corner with a crispy, honey-sweetened oat topping. This fall crumble is a sort of lazy man’s apple pie. I prefer Honeycrisp or Gala apples and Bosc pears for this because they soften but still hold their shape. Leave the skin on the apples and pears—that’s where a surprising amount of their fiber and nutrients are.

FILLING
2 cups cored, chopped Honeycrisp or Gala apples (about 2 large)
2 cups cored, chopped ripe Bosc pears (about 2 large)
1 cup dried cranberries
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons coconut palm sugar
TOPPING
½ cup chopped hazelnuts
1½ cups old-fashioned rolled oats
¼ cup virgin coconut oil
¼ cup honey
⅓ cup oat flour
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Pinch of fine sea salt
1
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2
For the filling: In a large bowl, toss together the apples, pears, dried cranberries, lemon zest, lemon juice, and coconut sugar. Spread the fruit in an 8 × 11-inch baking dish.
3
For the topping: In the same large bowl, stir together all the topping ingredients to combine. Evenly distribute the oat topping over the fruit.
4
Bake until the oats are lightly toasted and the fruit is bubbling around the edges, about 35 minutes. Let it sit for 10 minutes before serving to allow the topping to get crispier.
YOUR BODY ON
SUGAR
Remember when the only downside of eating too much sugar was getting cavities? It seems laughable now that sugar has been exposed as the reason that many people’s health is in the toilet. After realizing that the low-fat craze only made people fatter, studies focused more on simple carbohydrates, especially sugar (which is pumped into many low-fat products to mask their cardboard taste). The results: Eating too much sugar makes us fat, destroys our livers, and opens the doors to type 2 diabetes and heart disease. If you’re tempted to pretend it’s not true, I’m with you. But sugar’s negative effects are no joke, and you have to consider how much play sugar is getting in your diet if you expect to fit into your pants and have a body that actually works in 10 years.
You may be thinking you’re home free because you don’t eat candy and cookies, but if you slam back sodas, bottled flavored teas, or fruit juice with any regularity, you’re basically mainlining sugar. One 12-ounce soda has a whopping 10 teaspoons of sugar. Sugar is also hidden in fast food and practically every processed food on the shelves—ketchup, jars of tomato sauce, peanut butter, even supposed healthy products like yogurt, instant oatmeal, and energy bars. And it’s not just sugar. All refined carbs—including white bread, many crackers and pastries—act like sugar in the body, so those count too. The food industry relies on it so heavily that the only way to avoid overeating sugar is to cut out nearly all processed foods and drinks.
Most of the sugar I ate was in the form of bread, cookies, pasta, and hamburger buns—all high on the glycemic index and impossible for me to pass up. I would joke that they were like crack … which science now supports as a legit fact. Sugar is addictive, lighting up the same feel-good areas of the brain as cocaine and morphine. It’s why just one cookie or one bite of ice cream didn’t satisfy me—it took increasingly larger hits for me to get the sugar rush. The problem is that our bodies aren’t built to handle the mountains of sugar we’re pouring into them. Compounding this is the fact that sugar fuels your appetite like gasoline fuels a fire: The more sugar you eat, the more you crave. The good news is that the opposite is also true: The less sugar you eat, the more sensitive you become to it, and the less you need.
When you eat a piece of chocolate cake, the carbs are broken down into glucose—the sugar your body uses for energy—and then sent into your bloodstream. Your pancreas responds by releasing insulin, which lowers blood sugar levels by sending the glucose to cells for energy and then to your liver. Normally, the amount of insulin released is just enough to bring things back to an even keel. But if you’re putting cake, soda, or any refined carb in your face regularly, an increasing amount of insulin has to be released to deal with all that sugar. This uptick in insulin triggers hunger, making you head back for more cake. If you do this often, your body can’t possibly use as much energy (glucose) as you’re putting in, and insulin may direct it to be stored as fat.
Fructose, the sugar in fruit, acts a little differently
than glucose. It is abosrbed by your liver, so fructose doesn’t spike blood sugar levels and is relatively low on the glycemic index. Sounds like the holy grail of sugar, right? It is, if you’re getting fructose only from whole fruit, where it exists in relatively small amounts and is packaged with fiber. But if you’re eating highly processed packaged foods, you’re likely getting a ton of high fructose corn syrup or the bullshit “healthy” sweetener, agave syrup, which has a freakish amount of fructose (about 97 percent). These concentrated forms of fructose put a heavy load on your liver, which can store only so much sugar. When your liver is full, the sugar gets converted to fat. So eating sugar, especially fructose, too often and in large amounts ultimately results in weight gain and serious wear and tear on your liver that can lead to fatty liver disease.
To your body, it doesn’t matter if it’s a Pop-Tart or a fancy baguette, white sugar or honey: All forms of sugar can lead to some nasty outcomes if you down too much. That being said, some sources of sugar are better than others. (See my
guide to sweeteners
and how often to indulge in them.) Fruit and naturally occurring sweeteners are the best options. High-quality maple syrup tapped out of a tree and honey from local bees are a lot less processed than granulated sugar and high fructose corn syrup (which clearly had a very long road from a stalk of corn or sugarcane). Read the labels of the natural sweeteners you buy to make sure they’re unadulterated versions—some may have added refined sugars. And despite the fact that sugar substitutes like Splenda, NutraSweet, and Sweet’N Low don’t raise blood sugar levels, I don’t use them. They’re heavily processed and still relatively new to the food world, so their long-term health consequences are unknown. Also, most are hundreds of times sweeter than table sugar, so they keep your palate accustomed to overly sweet foods.
After my doctor-prescribed hiatus from sugar, I found that I didn’t crave it as much. And when I started indulging in it again, I realized that it didn’t take much to satisfy my urge. When I took my kids to the chocolate shop L.A. Burdick for hot chocolate one afternoon a few years ago, I was completely satisfied with a 2-ounce Dixie cup portion. They have insanely good, high-quality hot chocolate, but I still couldn’t believe that tiny portion was enough for me. It was such a victory.
SUGAR: THE GOOD, THE OKAY, AND THE DON’T GO THERE
SWEETENER
WHAT IS IT?
NUTRITION NOTES
MY GO-TOS
Honey (preferably raw)
Produced by honey bees from the nectar of various flowers
Dark honeys like buckwheat and chestnut have more antioxidants.
Maple syrup
Boiled-down maple tree sap
A good source of antioxidants and minerals, especially zinc and manganese. I use Grade A, which is lighter and easiest to find.
Granulated coconut palm sugar
Boiled-down nectar of coconut palm trees
Has a deep caramel flavor, can be used cup for cup in place of granulated or brown sugar. It’s lower on the glycemic index than cane sugar.
Molasses
A thick, dark syrup made by processing sugarcane or sugar beets into table sugar
Unsulfured varieties are best. Blackstrap molasses is the thickest, most nutritious variety because of its high mineral content.
USE SPARINGLY
Organic cane sugar (aka evaporated cane juice)
A golden granulated sugar extracted from sugar cane
Slightly less refined than regular sugar.
Organic brown sugar
White sugar with a bit of molasses added to it
Organic guarantees it’s from pesticide-free sugarcane.
Stevia
Sugar substitute extracted from the stevia plant
Has no effect on blood sugar levels, but it’s 300 times sweeter than regular table sugar. Some brands have added sugars, so read the labels.
AVOID
Agave syrup
Made from the juice of blue agave cactus
Highly processed and has an incredibly high concentration of fructose.
High fructose corn syrup
Corn syrup processed with chemicals to convert some of its glucose to fructose
Sweeter and cheaper than sugar, a manufacturers’ choice for processed foods. It has more fructose than regular sugar and triggers a stronger insulin response.
Aspartame (NutraSweet, Equal), sucralose (Splenda), and saccharin (Sweet’N Low)
Man-made artificial sweeteners
Used in diet sodas and low-fat products because they don’t raise blood sugar levels. They’re as far as you can get from whole, real food.

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