All the King's Cooks (28 page)

Read All the King's Cooks Online

Authors: Peter Brears

4.

Put it into a pan of cold water, cover, slowly bring it to the boil, then skim off any scum and reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer for a further 2–2½ hours, skimming as necessary.

5.

Drain the meat and either serve it hot, in which case prepared cabbage, carrots or similar vegetables may be put in with it 30 minutes before serving; or press the meat overnight and serve cold.

WET-SALT BEEF
77

1800g (4lb) brisket of beef

15ml (1tbs) coarse sea salt

40g (1½ oz) saltpetre

225g (8oz) coarse brown sugar

250g (9oz) common salt

2.31 (4 pt) hot water

1.

Put the salts and sugar into a large pot, and scald this with the hot water. Stir it, and leave it until all has dissolved and it is quite cold.

2.

Put in the beef, ensuring that it is covered, and leave it for
2–3 days, turning it every day. For modern use, this is sufficient to give it the characteristic salt-beef taste, but traditionally it was stored in this brine for two or three months.

3. Remove the beef from the brine, rinse, and follow points 3 to 5 in the dry-salt recipe.

LOMBARD MUSTARD
78

60–90ml (4–6 tbs) white wine

30ml (2 tbs) honey

vinegar

60ml (4 tbs) mustard powder

Mix the ingredients together, adding just enough vinegar to form a smooth sauce.

Bread and Wafers

MANCHETS

900g (2lb) unbleached white flour

25g (1oz) fresh yeast,

10ml (2 tsp) salt

or its equivalent of

water at blood heat

prepared dried yeast

1.

Mix the flour and salt in a warm bowl, and scoop a hollow in the top.

2.

Dissolve the yeast in 575ml (1 pt) of the water, pour this into the flour, mix it in, then knead it thoroughly for 10 minutes. Cover it with a light cloth and leave it to rise in a warm place for 1–1 ½ hours.

3.

Turn the dough out on to a floured hoard, knead it for 2–3 minutes, then divide it into six loaves.

4.

Form each loaf into a ball and make a 7mm (¼ in) cut all round it, then use the index finger or the handle of a wooden spoon to make a dimple from top to bottom through the middle of the loaf.

5.

Place the loaves on lightly greased baking sheets 5–8cm (2–3in) apart, cover with the cloth, and leave in a warm place for 30 minutes or more until doubled in size.

6.

Pre-heat the oven to 230°C (450°F, gas mark 8) and bake for 15–20 minutes, until well risen and a pale golden-brown.

CHEAT BREAD

Since the original sourdough method is inconvenient for modern domestic use, this following recipe uses fresh or dried yeast but retains the old method of setting the sponge.

800g (1lb 12oz) wholewheat flour

15g (½ oz) fresh yeast

10ml (2 tsp) salt

or its equivalent of

water at blood heat

prepared dried yeast

1.

Mix the flour and salt in a warm bowl, then scoop a hollow in the centre, leaving a thick layer across the base.

2.

Dissolve the yeast in 425ml (¾ pt) water in a jug, then pour this slowly into the hollow in the flour, stirring continuously to form a smooth batter. Try to stir the batter only, without working in too much of the flour.

3.

Cover the batter with some of the dry flour from the sides of the bowl, place a light cloth over the top, and leave it in a warm place to ferment for an hour.

4.

Pour a further 150ml (¼ pt) of the water into the batter, then begin to mix the batter into the rest of the flour to form a dough, adding a little more water if necessary (different flours have different rates of absorption). Then knead the dough for 10 minutes, cover it with the cloth and leave it to rise in a warm place for about an hour.

5.

Turn the dough out on to a floured board, knead it for 2–3 minutes, then divide it into two, forming each half into a round loaf. Place on a lightly greased baking sheet, cover with the cloth, and keep in the warm for 30 minutes or more, until doubled in size.

6.

Pre-heat the oven to 230°C (450°F, gas mark 8) and bake for 30–35 minutes.

TO MAKE WAFERS
79

225g (8oz) plain flour

150ml (¼ pt) cream

1.5ml (¼ tsp) cinnamon

30ml (2 tbs) rosewater

30ml (2 tbs) sugar

25g (1oz) butter

egg yolks

1.

Mix the flour, cinnamon and sugar in a bowl, and make a well in the centre. Pour in the eggs and rosewater and beat them in, adding the cream little by little, with some water if necessary to form a stiff batter (rather thicker than that used for pancakes).

2.

Heat the closed irons on one side and then on the other over a stove. Wrap the butter in a small piece of cloth, and use it to very lightly grease the inside faces of the irons.

3.

Pour a small pool of batter into the middle of the inside face of one iron, then quickly close the irons and keep them pressed firmly together as the wafer cooks – sending out plumes of steam and squeaks, whines and squeals as it does so!

4.

When the steam starts to subside and before you smell scorching, open the irons and remove the wafer – either flat, to dry off on a cooling rack, or rolled off on the handle of a wooden spoon and left to dry.

The wafers should be crisp and light-coloured, but this requires skill in mixing the batter and judging the temperature, which will take some time to acquire.

Hot Drinks

ALEBERRY
80

575ml (1 pt) strong brown ale

1.5ml (¼ tsp) ground cloves

45g (3 tbs) fine oatmeal

1.5ml (¼ tsp) ground mace

45ml (3 tbs) sugar

225g (8oz) crustless white

bread cut in 2.5cm (1in) cubes

1.

Mix the oatmeal, spices and sugar in a pan with a little of the ale, then add the remaining ale. Bring to the boil, and simmer while stirring for a further 10–15 minutes, until thick and smooth.

2.

Arrange the bread in the bottom of a bowl, pour the hot liquid on top, and serve immediately.

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