Read Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags Online
Authors: Amy Butler
a. Turn the bag
Right
side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining.
b. Keep the bottom of the lining outside of the exterior bag. Fold each side of the opening under ½″ (1.3 cm) toward the
Wrong
side, and press. Pin the edges together and then edge stitch the opening closed. Backstitch at each end.
c. Push the lining down inside the exterior. Use a turning tool* to gently push out the curves.
d. Smooth the lining and exterior bands at the top open end of the zipper and pin them together. Topstitch across the side seam over the current edge stitching. This will secure the lining. Backstitch at each end.
Your Coin Purse is complete! Now you can keep your keys, coins, and other essentials on hand and pretty in plain sight!
If you’re looking to run away from home (read: sneak off for a latte or to the mall), then do it properly and take along your very own (stylish!) Fringed Hobo Bag. This bag sports a jazzy, rounded style in two sizes, with a longer strap on the regular size and a shorter strap on the larger size. Accent it with sassy tassel trim that travels the circumference of the bag. Stash everything you need for your adventure in the large compartment, and hit the road.
17½″ (44.5 cm) wide × 1 1″ (27.9 cm) tall [26¼″ (66.8 cm) tall with handles] × 2½″ (6.4 cm) deep
19¾″ (50.2 cm) wide × 14″ (35.6 cm) tall [24″ (61 cm) tall with handles] × 2½″ (6.4 cm) deep
• 1⅛ yd (1.03 m) of one print for the exterior
• ⅞ yd (0.8 m) of a coordinating print for the yoke
• 1⅝ yd (1.49 m) of a second coordinating print for the lining
• 1⅜ yd (1.26 m) of one print for the exterior
• ⅞ yd (0.8 m) of a coordinating print for the yoke
• 1⅝ yd (1.49 m) of a second coordinating print for the lining
• 3⅜ yd (3.09 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon)
• 2 yd (1.83 m) of 44″ (112 cm) wide fusible fleece (I use fusible Thermolam Plus by Pellon)
• 2⅞ yd (2.63 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon)
• 1 yd (0.91 m) of 44″ (112 cm) wide fusible fleece (I use fusible Thermolam Plus by Pellon)
• 2¾ yd (2.51 m) of 1″ (2.5 cm) to 1½″ (3.8 cm) long tassel trim
• 1 spool coordinating all-purpose thread (I use Coats Dual Duty XP)
• 3¾ yd (3.43 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon)
• 2½ yd (2.29 m) of 44″ (112 cm) wide fusible fleece (I use fusible Thermolam Plus by Pellon)
• 3¼ yd (2.97 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon)
• 1¼ yd (1.14 m) of 44″ (11 2 cm) wide fusible fleece (I use fusible Thermolam Plus by Pellon)
• 3¼ yd (2.97 m) of 1″ (2.5 cm) to 1½″ (3.8 cm) long tassel trim
• 1 spool coordinating all-purpose thread (I use Coats Dual Duty XP)
See Basic Tools Needed for Each Project
(page 14)
.
• Tracing wheel
• Wax-free tracing paper (I use Prym-Dritz brand)
• Zipper foot for your sewing machine
• Main panel
• Inside pocket panel
• Yoke
a. Fold each of the fabrics in half lengthwise
Wrong
sides together, matching the selvage edges,* and gently press a crease. Open the fabric. Fold each edge in to meet the crease with
Wrong
sides together. This will give you enough folded edges to cut out the panels.
• Cut 2 main panels on the fold*
b. Open the fabric. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure and mark the dimensions directly onto the
Right
side of a single layer of fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.
• Cut 2 side panels: 3½″ (8.9 cm) wide × 36″ (91.4 cm) long
• Cut 2 yokes on the fold
• Cut 2 main panels on the fold
• Cut 4 inside pocket panels on the fold
c. Open the fabric. Measure and mark the dimensions directly onto the
Right
side of a single layer of fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.
• Cut 2 side panels: 3½″ (8.9 cm) wide × 36″ (91.4 cm) long
d. Use the panels you have cut as full-size pattern pieces to cut out the fusible interfacing and fleece.
• Cut 4 main panels
• Cut 2 yokes
• Cut 4 side panels
• Cut 4 inside pocket panels
• Cut 4 main panels
• Cut 2 yokes
• Cut 2 side panels
• Cut 2 inside pocket panels
• Cut 4 main panels
• Cut 4 side panels
• Cut 2 main panels
• Cut 2 side panels
a. On the
Wrong
side of one fleece main panel, use your ruler and fabric marker and measure and mark ½″ (1.3 cm) in around the entire edge. Draw a line connecting the marks and cut along the marked lines. Repeat to cut off the ½″ (1.3 cm) seam allowance* around the remaining fleece main panel(s) and all fleece side panels.
b. Place the
Wrong
side of the first exterior main panel onto the fusible side of the coordinating interfacing piece. Using a damp pressing cloth,* fuse the interfacing in place, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.
c. Center the fusible side of the corresponding fleece panel onto the
interfaced
side of the first main panel. Fuse the fleece to the panel. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.
d. Repeat steps 3b and 3c to apply the corresponding interfacing and fleece pieces onto the second exterior main panel and both exterior side panels.
e. Repeat step 3b to fuse the corresponding interfacing pieces onto both yokes, lining side panels, lining main panels, and all 4 inside pocket panels (or just 2 if using mid-weight Home Dec fabric).
a. Using tracing paper and a tracing wheel or chalk pencil, transfer* the placement line for the yoke from the main panel pattern piece onto the
Right
side of each exterior main panel.
b. Stay stitch* ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the outside curved edge on each yoke.
c. Place the first yoke with the
interfaced
side facing up. Fold the outside curved edge ¼″ (0.6 cm) in along the stay stitching, and press.
d. Place the
interfaced
side of the yoke onto the
Right
side of the first main panel, lining up the folded edge on the yoke with the placement line on the main panel, and pin in place. Edge stitch* around the pinned edge and backstitch* at each end.
e. Sew a stay-stitching line ⅜″ (1 cm) from the top inside curved edge. This will hold the main panel and yoke in place and support the edges.
f. Clip into the seam allowance every ½″ to ¾″ (1.3 cm to 1.9 cm) around the curve on the yoke. Be careful not to clip your stitching.
g. Repeat steps 4b through 4f to attach the second yoke to the second exterior main panel.
a. Starting at the top outer edge of the first main panel, place the tape of the trim even with the outer curved edge and pin it in place. Ease and pin the trim around the edge, ending at the top edge on the other side. Cut off the excess trim.
Figure 1
b. Using the zipper foot for your machine, stitch close to the inside edge of the tape along the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.
c. Repeat steps 5a and 5b to attach the trim to the second main panel.
a. Place the two exterior side panels
Right
sides together, matching the raw edges. Pin along one short raw edge. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam along the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end. Press the seam allowance open.