Read Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags Online
Authors: Amy Butler
Figure 6
d. Unpin the lining panels at each end of the zipper. Place these edges
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sides together, matching the seams that attach the bands. Pin them together. Starting and stopping just under the zipper teeth, stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam down both sides and across the bottom edges. Leave a 4″ (10.2 cm) opening centered at the bottom edge for turning the bag
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side out. Backstitch at each end.
e. Repeat step 9c to trim the corners and press.
a. Turn the bag
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side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining.
b. Fold each side of the opening under ½″ (1.3 cm) toward the
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side, and press. Pin the edges together and edge stitch the opening closed. Then, push the lining down inside the exterior. Use a turning tool* to gently push out the corners.
c. Pin the exterior and lining bands together at the center of each main panel. Following the topstitching already in place on the band, stitch 1½″ (3.8 cm) across the center to hold the lining in place. Backstitch at each end.
Your Clutch is complete! As easy as this purse was to make, you’ll have even more fun collecting compliments over the elegant details—remember, mum’s the word. Don’t tell your friends how easily you created your purse. Let them have some fun andfind outfor themselves!
Accented with a beautiful central pleat and eye-catching “hipped” shoulder straps, this hip bag will turn heads. The smaller size is perfect for ladies on the go or as a wallet and keys stash. The larger size is a cool daily runaround bag for school, market, or errands. Whip up several bags in fabrics from funky to fabulous and start your own trend.
9½″ (24.1 cm) wide × 9″ (22.9 cm) tall [18½″ (47 cm) with handles]
13½″ (34.3 cm) wide × 11¾″ (29.8 cm) tall [29½″ (75 cm) with handles]
• ⅜ yd (0.34 m) of one print for the exterior main panels
• ⅝ yd (0.57 m) of a coordinating print for the exterior bands, handles, and handle extensions (referred to as “hip” below)
• ½ yd (0.46 m) of a second coordinating print for the lining
• 1½ yd (1.37 m) of 20″ (50.8 cm) wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon)
• One ½″ (1.3 cm) magnetic snap (I use Prym-Dritz brand)
• 1 small spool coordinating all-purpose thread (I use Coats Dual Duty XP)
See Basic Tools Needed for Each Project
(page 14)
.
• Safety pin
• Main/pocket panel
• Handle
• Hip (used as a handle extension)
a. Fold the exterior and lining fabrics in half lengthwise,
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sides together, matching the selvage edges.* Gently press a crease on the fold. Open the fabric and fold each selvage edge in to meet the center crease. This will give you enough folded edges to cut out the exterior main panels and lining.
• Cut 2 main panels on the fold*
b. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, with
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sides together, matching the selvage edges.
• Cut 2 handles on the fold
• Cut 4 hips on the fold
c. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure and mark the dimensions below directly on the
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side of the fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.
• Cut 4 bands for small bag: 2¼″ (5.7 cm) wide × 8½″ (21.6 cm) long
OR
• Cut 4 bands for large bag: 2¾″ (7 cm) wide × 12″ (30.5 cm) long
• Cut 2 main panels on the fold
• Cut 2 pocket panels on the fold. Fold the main panel pattern piece back at the dashed lines.
d. Use the panels you have cut as full-size pattern pieces to cut out the fusible interfacing.
• Cut 2 main panels
• Cut 2 handles
• Cut 1 pocket panel
• Cut 4 bands
a. Place the
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side of the first exterior main panel onto the fusible side of one coordinating interfacing. Using a damp pressing cloth,* fuse the interfacing in place. Turn the panels over and press them again, making sure there are no puckers.
b. Repeat step 3a to fuse the coordinating interfacing to the second exterior main panel, all four bands, both handles, and one pocket panel.
a. Fold the first exterior main panel in half,
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sides together, matching the side edges. Gently press a crease on the fold at the top edge only. Pin the top edges together.
b. Stitch a 1″ (2.5 cm) seam from the folded edge, 1½″ (3.8 cm) in length down from the top raw edge of the panel, and backstitch* at each end.
c. Open the panel. Press the pleat that forms on the
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side of the fabric flat, centering the fabric evenly over the stitching line. Pin and then machine baste* ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the top edge of the pleat to hold it in place.
d. Press the pleat on the
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side of the main panel the full length of the panel. This will give the bag its shape.
e. Repeat steps 4a through 4d to make a pleat on the other exterior main panel.
Figure 1
a. With
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sides together, match the top edge of the main panel to one long edge of the band and pin in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.
b. Press the seam allowance* toward the band. Then, edge stitch* across the band just above the seam.
c. Repeat steps 5a and 5b to attach the other exterior band and main panel.
a. Place the exterior panels
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sides together, matching the side and bottom edges and the seams that attach the bands. Pin all matched edges and seams together.
b. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam along the pinned edges, pivoting at each seam. Backstitch at each end.
c. Clip* into the seam allowance at the seams where you pivoted, being careful not to clip your stitching. Trim* the seam allowance to ¼″ (0.6 cm) on the curved edges below the clips. Press the side seam allowance on the band open.
d. Turn the exterior
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side out and use a turning tool* to gently round out the edges. Press the exterior.
a. Place two hip pieces
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sides together matching all the edges, and pin in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam around the pinned edges. Backstitch at each end.
b. Trim the seam allowance to ¼″ (0.6 cm). Clip into the seam allowance every ½″ (1.3 cm) around the curved edge, being careful not to clip your stitching.